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Coming soon - New garage!

BAGN1T

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May 10, 2011
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Signed a contract over the weekend for a new garage. Going to be 30x24 (or 25...might already have an addendum to the contract haha). Will have 3 bays. The far left will have the work bench, tools, etc and I'll park my bike there. Wife will park on the right, and I'll park in the middle (if 25'). It will be stick frame, vinyl siding to match the house, and unfinished inside for now. Will have to add electrical, insulation, and drywall (considering OSB) in the future as funds and time allows.

Current estimated start is in July sometime. Won't have much to post before then, but will have lots of pics once they get started!

This photo is just the little stakes with flags to indicate the planned location.

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aleccolin

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Funny I was doing the math mentally just yesterday and wondering how your truck was going to fit with like 2” to spare, so yeah bumping the depth as much as possible is a very good call. So stoked for you bro! Def want to come check it out when they get started on it.


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BAGN1T

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I should be able to park in it unfinished at 24'....just put the hitch btwn the studs. Probably wouldn't be able to after the interior is finished.

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BAGN1T

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Ok y'all! I have this preliminary front elevation drawing from the builder. What he sent to the county for approval.

They also started marking utilities today!53fe5486e38533cd29f3ece12e488672.jpg

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BAGN1T

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Yeah...I would prefer that...and prefer the other door be a 9' door. Unfortunately, that won't work with a 30' building. The county requires at least 2' on the ends and 2' between the doors. So this is my only option. I really wanted three 9' doors but had to go to this configuration because of the 2' rule.

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NORDFORD

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I’ve got three small doors. I hate it. I would love what you’re going to have!
 
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BAGN1T

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Mind if I ask why you don't like the three single doors?

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BAGN1T

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Update. Had some issues with the county getting building permit so it pushed everything back. Digging should commence next Thursday, 8/9. The rest of the construction should get started around 8/22.

Truss delivery attempt #1 happened this morning. The guy showed up, truck was too long to make the turn into the driveway. They'll be making another attempt with a smaller truck.

Trying to plan out the wall on the side closer to the house. My thought is to put the man door about 5' back from the garage door, then the breaker box right next to the door which will leave plenty of continuous real estate on the wall for whatever storage I come up with (if any). Thoughts?
 
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Deezler

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. My thought is to put the man door about 5' back from the garage door, then the breaker box right next to the door which will leave plenty of continuous real estate on the wall for whatever storage I come up with (if any). Thoughts?

Why not have the man door right at the end, opening in towards the breaker box? Since you need dead (open) space in front of the panel anyway, might as well be where the door swings in. This would give you the maximum wall for storage. I think.

edit: maybe i misinterpreted?
 
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BAGN1T

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I *think* code requires 3' from a corner to the breaker box. So you're suggesting, from the end of the building, 3', then breaker box, then door?

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BAGN1T

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Ok. So I did a little rearranging. Had to shift where the garage is going to go so it'll be more than 5' from the fence. I also changed the angle a bit so it goes a little better with the house. It was kind of wonky before. I also marked out where they'll dig for the electrical and moved some pavers and retaining wall stones out of their way.

They're coming tomorrow morning to lay everything out so they'll be able to start digging first thing Thursday.fbd3db1bc0c9792ebb5cd60a5e2b1676.jpgf4b07830a0b0ba8ecd6e262b9d2e0422.jpg42fa3cacdcc15aa576988e2243d68806.jpg

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jalbrecht55

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Mind if I ask why you don't like the three single doors?

I have 3 8x7. The good is that you don't have to drive in and then steer towards the wall as I had to when I had a single 16' (not required but it kept my wife and kids from banging the car doors into my truck).

The bad is that when you want space to work on a single project it doesn't work as well. With a 16' or 18' door you can pull in the center of a double bay. With multiple 8' doors you can't. The other issue, with my Chevy pickup i have to center it perfectly (I rub both door seals when I pull in). A couple times while in a hurry I nearly ripped off my mirror and I'm the only one that can get my truck in or out if the garage. My Chevy is a 2002, narrower than the newer ones. But many have power fold mirrors now.
 

zmotorsports

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Something to think about because I'm not a fan of 8' wide doors. I've seen too many mirrors removed and scrapes with only an 8' wide door. You had mentioned that you couldn't go 18' wide because not enough width total.

Have you thought about two 12' wide doors with 2' on either side and in the middle? Or possibly two 10' wide doors with either 3' on either side and 4' in the middle or 2' on either side with 6' in the middle? I think that a little more on the sides will allow storage down the side walls without them encroaching into the path of travel. I usually like to stay 3-4 feet away from side walls minimum with vehicles to allow for equipment storage down the walls and enough room to not hit the equipment with car doors when opening.

Just a thought.
 
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BAGN1T

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This is in VA.

They came out this morning and laid everything out nice and square. I had to come home sick this morning so I snagged a photo. To my surprise, not long after I got home, they showed up to start digging. They weren't supposed to start digging until tomorrow. Got all the top soil but and started for the footers but a storm came and he called it quits for the day.6184c2fb0354b83a7acc9bcb3dd85109.jpgd66f33c307ed07a06942a9bb288a8041.jpg1fb8db5e36ac15acdbc85b6562d9ec06.jpga8a7c31c7eeee2ceb52edac0b85ded0b.jpgff76849302490825ab0872f30f4453a9.jpg51bfe572221260ae0a52360bd69a6ff3.jpg703862b0b08ee408a5de939522b01ecc.jpg

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BAGN1T

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Something to think about because I'm not a fan of 8' wide doors. I've seen too many mirrors removed and scrapes with only an 8' wide door. You had mentioned that you couldn't go 18' wide because not enough width total.

Have you thought about two 12' wide doors with 2' on either side and in the middle? Or possibly two 10' wide doors with either 3' on either side and 4' in the middle or 2' on either side with 6' in the middle? I think that a little more on the sides will allow storage down the side walls without them encroaching into the path of travel. I usually like to stay 3-4 feet away from side walls minimum with vehicles to allow for equipment storage down the walls and enough room to not hit the equipment with car doors when opening.

Just a thought.
We're going with the "3 car" layout for resale. For my purposes, my workbench, tools, etc will be in the far left bay with my bike. So the right side should stay clear for the wife's car. I may put some shelves higher up or something but not right away. We had talked about doing a 24x24 with two larger doors but it wasn't going to be much more cost to go a bit bigger and make it a 3 car.

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zmotorsports

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We're going with the "3 car" layout for resale. For my purposes, my workbench, tools, etc will be in the far left bay with my bike. So the right side should stay clear for the wife's car. I may put some shelves higher up or something but not right away. We had talked about doing a 24x24 with two larger doors but it wasn't going to be much more cost to go a bit bigger and make it a 3 car.

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Gotcha. I just know how things start migrating away from walls and then compounded with only 8' wide door it becomes less convenient.
 
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BAGN1T

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I agree. I certainly would prefer the larger doors. We don't want to spend too much money on this since we probably aren't going to stay in this house for too long.

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BAGN1T

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They finished digging today. Kind of. They were supposed to dig over to the house for the electrical line but I guess they decided not to...or to wait until after the slab is poured...or something. Anyway, digging for footers is done. A lot of the forms have been put in place but they still have to finish that up. Gravel is delivered. Good thing they didn't deliver the trusses on the first attempt. They would have been sitting right where they put all the gravel.

Photos!b4d1dfd0c616ae2ba3054d77cb09e61c.jpg5b0bd9e51d6cabe29dd203d5c70a6128.jpgd38025e3b29c8b00c92b01b5761c18fd.jpg84b1d3ba3004208b017aafd200c6d10b.jpg0d5c1160f2b37219af6ff448ebdb52ea.jpg5529fa4d4de86b6ac0f95c4982736104.jpga3c5408cc81efb7b83371b630b4c32f9.jpg4bf57164528eb42e5ddf58426cbdf9d1.jpg915e804d17259624c0a993ccf776371b.jpg

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BAGN1T

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Some rebar is in place, some gravel filled in. Looks like most of the materials for the slab have arrived.1eba514dfc0556c7a73fd3d72dc54c74.jpgf6390803adaf188dd96c6caaa13e3571.jpg2cea44095bfd1751c6e87b3c25d5d7c4.jpgf0e0771b902b222803fd052eb8161ed7.jpg576c32ec36904f6ca6e7a07d31e39631.jpg836dc241683c0caef91a340c72a235c4.jpg8db2c902529f6e1b54018b83fc24cd30.jpg

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BAGN1T

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Came home at lunch to get some pics.fd1dfede47a0091ce17cec4990966224.jpge040f9b98f249f8f24a6c6937303b97a.jpg3697670ffa37e58cd23bc30f38641d9a.jpg62caa87f9f7901b87736039a9b750128.jpgd932c38e3c773b847485485af4e0d266.jpg

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aleccolin

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Vey excite! That's interesting, using hardibacker as stayform to create the turndown edge... I thought they'd have to pour footings and knee walls and pour the slab inside, but if the frostline is only 18" or so I guess this a middle ground. Looks ready, when's the mud coming?
 
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BAGN1T

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The last I heard, they we're planning to pour on Friday. But it is calling for rain Friday. So I'm hoping they'll pour on Thursday and the rain will help ease the need to rewet through the cure.

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aleccolin

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Awesome, hey what's their responsibility for backfilling the outside of the slab after it's stripped? Just need to be sure everything drains correctly away from and around the slab.
 
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BAGN1T

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I don't know if that's something the concrete crew will do or if it'll be the GC taking care of it.

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BAGN1T

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Not much for a photo update today. They put in the little plastic doohickeys to hold up the mesh and I guess the inspector required a silt fence so that got put up. Pour is scheduled for 7:30 tomorrow morning!!01e942c77ba4433986a5bbaf9111ae8d.jpg4f2d4747ed93ddfb62b51e06a04d04be.jpge27872855c691e6cefe3c52421f57868.jpg

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BAGN1T

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Photos from this morning before I left for work. Slab!a3f5baf59edbc2ee70ec145c2052bd49.jpg1fa662c33ce4057d2095b7371448fe05.jpg

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BAGN1T

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Photos from after I got home yesterday. The concrete guys had ordered some burlap to help with the wet cure. But for some reason didn't even have enough for half. I rewetted before I had a chance to take a photo. I pulled the little bit of burlap off because I could tell it was going to stian the concrete. There were spots where it looked like there was clay or something. I gave it a good spray with the "jet" setting on the hose nozzle to get off all the junk the burlap left behind. I started putting the sheeting, got 2/3 of the way done before I heard back from the concrete guy that he had people on the way back with more. I told him just to call them off.3688d09a2cb5671be05e4d27fdab38c5.jpg8fce5ed60cd9c973ea842b80be6ef663.jpg69d9057b350939b964ad99855288d1b6.jpg132491d5243d609d67757619f9c8b8d1.jpg6e5d30210e116278f81be38bef7c2308.jpg2e465dea1b4b7973f70cf4cd3e0cd816.jpgf619ceb7aecdf2a1c5fd937257fc6970.jpg

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BAGN1T

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Here are some photos after the burlap came off.0156d3d6bbf188606c3621478e73d3bf.jpgb4cab50e00b8ccad350ad2fab3c3ed7b.jpg60edc7bc367a1d33a98c5efbe474ea58.jpg29b0d7e7b35fcba9361fb1751e6e7244.jpgcb34f4f95af72a52674340bd007ad7ec.jpgb7efaddb4653b4e9ccec6c1e2f5d503a.jpgf686159237a7bac4aba6160ec2c9637f.jpg

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BAGN1T

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And an update from just now, 6am. I got up early to rewet before I shower and one of the dogs took off outside. I start to smell skunk when I'm in the bedroom. I get out to the living room and hear squealing. I ran out side to see Duke at the fence barking at tow skunks rolling around against the fence. I yelled at him to come back and he turned and came in just as one of them reared up and lifted it's tail. So I don't think he got sprayed. But this all happened about 10-15' from the corner of the house. The stench is potent. After I got Duke in, we went over to the kitchen to see if we could see what was going on. Those two skunks were still rolling around each other. They were either mating or fighting. They eventually ran off along the fence into the woods. I made a comment that it was good they were running out that way instead of under the house. Spoke to soon. My wife said "nope, one is coming back!". And it went under the deck.

The smells is so strong outside that it smells like a skunk was set of fire. Like it smells burnt out there.

*queue rant about Colin's immense hatred for skunks*

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Rich M.

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Jun 18, 2013
Messages
286
Location
Timonium, Maryland
The updates are great Keep the posts coming.

Would love to be doing what you are doing, but do not have the space and extra funds to spend on a desire. The wife prefers to eat three meals a day.
 
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BAGN1T

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May 10, 2011
Messages
150
Would love to be doing what you are doing

You sure?? Right now I think I'm watching a skunk eat another skunk in our dogs fenced yard with a .22 just in case it decides to run off. Pretty sure it's rabid. Waiting on animal control.


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aleccolin

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Jul 12, 2009
Messages
101
OMFG **** SKUNKS STRAIGHT TO HELL!!!

Seriously that ***** SO hard, definitely sounds like it might be rabid, which is pretty much the only way to make a skunk even worse. Thank God they didn’t get the dogs.

Slab looks good though!
 
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BAGN1T

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May 10, 2011
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150
Here is what I'm thinking for electrical. I'm not an architect not am I great at SketchUp so excuse some incorrect usage of things. I think the doors are obvious. S indicates the locations of switches. Outlets in the middle of the photo will be in the ceiling. The ceiling outlets near the walls will be for task lighting over workbenches and will be switched. All the quad boxes will be at workbench height and duples boxes at normal outlet height (18"?). When I put double outlet icons kind of out from each other indicates they'll be directly over each other. Some are workbench height over normal outlets. The two by the garage doors will be outlets near the ceiling for openers.

Breaker panel between the man door and garage doors.

240v outlet in the corner there by the workbench/garage door for compressor and future welder.

Thoughts?0bede6f09c3a0d540fa0d08e1c4bb070.jpg

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BAGN1T

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Slab uncovered after it's last manual rewetting. Supposed to rain some tonight and they'll be starting more work tomorrow/Thursday.

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aleccolin

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2009
Messages
101
Here is what I'm thinking for electrical. I'm not an architect not am I great at SketchUp so excuse some incorrect usage of things. I think the doors are obvious. S indicates the locations of switches. Outlets in the middle of the photo will be in the ceiling. The ceiling outlets near the walls will be for task lighting over workbenches and will be switched. All the quad boxes will be at workbench height and duples boxes at normal outlet height (18"?). When I put double outlet icons kind of out from each other indicates they'll be directly over each other. Some are workbench height over normal outlets. The two by the garage doors will be outlets near the ceiling for openers.

Breaker panel between the man door and garage doors.

240v outlet in the corner there by the workbench/garage door for compressor and future welder.

Thoughts?

Okay so as far as overhead outlets for lighting, are you planning to switch the ones in the middle separately from the ones along the wall? Nothing wrong with that just clarifying.

You're going to want two 240V outlets on separate breakers, one for the compressor and one near the back corner for welders (better location imho). You don't want the compressor kicking on during a weld and popping the breaker. Both outlets can be mounted down low to make more available wall space, they'll just stay plugged in all the time.

I don't know how a missed this, but are there any windows? Natural lighting is 10x better than artificial, definitely worth considering adding some at least on the side facing the house and maybe the back wall. And I know you said you didn't want windows in the garage doors, but I'd reconsider that also, it's really nice getting that extra light in and easy enough to make some shades for them.

If you're planning on using Wall Control just pay attention to the outlet spacing so they hit in between groups of panels.

I don't know what door height you need to clear your truck, the door bottom might hang a few inches below the opening, so watch for that. If you need a taller 8' or 9'H door you may also want high lift tracks so the door and opener will clear with plenty of room inside, however don't get closer than about 6" to the ceiling, any less and clearance for light fixtures starts becoming a concern.

Go ahead and plan your box locations for exterior lighting and flood/motion lights as well. I wouldn't suggest an exterior outlet, but you may want that too.
 
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SynergyMike

Member
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
14
Location
Arizona
Here is what I'm thinking for electrical. I'm not an architect not am I great at SketchUp so excuse some incorrect usage of things. I think the doors are obvious. S indicates the locations of switches. Outlets in the middle of the photo will be in the ceiling. The ceiling outlets near the walls will be for task lighting over workbenches and will be switched. All the quad boxes will be at workbench height and duples boxes at normal outlet height (18"?). When I put double outlet icons kind of out from each other indicates they'll be directly over each other. Some are workbench height over normal outlets. The two by the garage doors will be outlets near the ceiling for openers.

Breaker panel between the man door and garage doors.

240v outlet in the corner there by the workbench/garage door for compressor and future welder.

Thoughts?0bede6f09c3a0d540fa0d08e1c4bb070.jpg

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Pretty nice layout IMO. Here are a few questions/ideas for you as I'm working through some of this in my shop layout:


  1. Are all of the 'outlets' on the ceiling dedicated for lighting fixtures? If so, you may want a couple extra to plug in ceiling mounted cord reels
  2. If a jackshaft style garage door opener is a possibility for you, make sure you add an outlet for those on the wall near the garage door shafts. If this is the case, I would still add the outlet for traditional ceiling mount openers in the event you decide to switch.
  3. I would consider a few 'up high' outlets for cool neon/LED signs or a TV.

Keep us posted!
 
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