Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
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jims09build
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2009
- Messages
- 102
Those gauges were given to me about 40 years ago. They were in a large compressor station that was slated to be torn down. They are Ashcroft gauges and are solid brass. The faces actually unscrew and there is a date of test inside from 1961. The threads on the body and faces are very, very fine and the workmanship in these gauges is amazing. I have moved 4 times in my 67 years and they have always stayed with me. I wonder what they are worth, not that I would want to sell them. Thanks for the kind comments.
Jim
Jim
460Rustang
Well-known member
80 gl Kobalt, picked up used with less than 1 hour on it. Guy bought it for a car project then just never got around to using it, sold the car. Little bit suspect on the 1 hr use claim until I saw it,...brand new. 
Craigslist find, little over an hour each way drive,...$500.
Craigslist find, little over an hour each way drive,...$500.
jims09build
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2009
- Messages
- 102
I just got a call from Ingersoll-Rand. This unit was made in 1952 so it's almost as old as me! Better shape too! Ha Ha
shooting4life
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- Joined
- Nov 19, 2012
- Messages
- 334
Here is mine, nothing special, 60 gallon 11 cfm@90 charge air pro by IR. Just finished the enclosure a couple of weekends ago.
Then the air lines were completed this last weekend with the help of my brother. Here is a shot of the under bench mount
Then the air lines were completed this last weekend with the help of my brother. Here is a shot of the under bench mount
AMCguy
Well-known member
I just dragged this baby home today. It's a Gardner Denver two stage with a 10 hp Briggs.
It hasn't run in a while but everything turns over nicely. I only rotated the pulley a couple of times and a puff of air came out when I pulled the bung. Looks pretty good inside.
I think it will clean up nicely. I just got a line on a 20' shipping container. I think the two would make a nice little sandblasting combo.
It hasn't run in a while but everything turns over nicely. I only rotated the pulley a couple of times and a puff of air came out when I pulled the bung. Looks pretty good inside.
I think it will clean up nicely. I just got a line on a 20' shipping container. I think the two would make a nice little sandblasting combo.
Xicaque
Well-known member
This finally came in today!!!! It is beautiful. I would love to move it into the living room as display only.
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It sure is a monster compared to the ole POS it replaced!
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I have finally joined the Q club
It sure is a monster compared to the ole POS it replaced!
I have finally joined the Q club
damiansd
Well-known member
Here is my 2hp of pure aggression!!!
Looking to upgrade in the next few months.
Damian.
Looking to upgrade in the next few months.
Damian.
Burl
Well-known member
Mine. It needs a check valve, its leaking ever so slightly. Where do I find one?
this guy has a bunch of compressor parts, check valves included/ I have bought from them & zero problems...http://www.ebay.com/usr/upe_group
MackMan
Well-known member
"New" garage came complete with the 4.5HP Kobalt (anyone know who actually made this unit?)
I also have this handy dandy 15HP 3-phase champion, but no 3-phase power... any takers?
I also have this handy dandy 15HP 3-phase champion, but no 3-phase power... any takers?
From what I understand from previous threads is that they are by Sanborn.
"New" garage came complete with the 4.5HP Kobalt (anyone know who actually made this unit?)
Mine. It needs a check valve, its leaking ever so slightly. Where do I find one?
Nice! 321 or 331?
Pull the check valve out, disassemble and clean.
Steve in Mi
Well-known member
If it is the in tank type 3/4" this may be a good deal for you;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/19061204856...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1649wt_880
I have no connection with this seller.
Xicaque
Well-known member
Xicaque
Well-known member
reman
Well-known member
I can second that motion and highly recommend this one to you. I just bought and installed this same valve just over a week ago. It works great, low cost, and they are fine people to deal with.
Burl
Well-known member
Its a 321, 1 1/2 HP. Check valve is not in the tank, its on the same block as the gauge. I'll try cleaning it. Thanks.
road
Well-known member
wow i lost track of this thread....
Rakoprtr
Well-known member
Burl
Well-known member
Mine. It needs a check valve, its leaking ever so slightly. Where do I find one?
Also, where in this oil level sight window should the level be? Thanks again.
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pepi
Well-known member
See it this will help page 43 & 44
https://www.miltonindustries.com/uploads/Milton_Catalog_August_2011.pdf
Don't blame yuh, - Both are Parker/WATTS R119 O6C. 06 = 3/4ID in and out. With the R119's Precision Diaphragm regulators, you experience very little pressure loss. Totally different than standard regulators; very very smooth and consistent. I'm not a fan of undo weight on the gun ends and attempt to eliminate as many transition points as possible. Just 35' of 1/2ID hose connected direct. Don't really have the scfm's to play with (15). This worked out well.
Anyway, I found those at an auction liquidation in which a Solar company had unfortunately went under. It took awhile to collect all that stuff, but I couldn't afford to purchase it new (although I ended with one new one and the other might as well of been new, got lucky!) so I had to wait and keep my eyes peeled for deals lol. Some system hardware was found thru Amaz & FleaBay...
I looked real quick for the R119 for yuh, - there are a few on ebay. But yea, depending upon how much CFM/SCFM you have to play with, - bigger is usually better. There's O2C's, O4C's, O6C's and higher. Keep that in mind when hunting them down, - that's spec for -1/4" 1/2" 3/4". Yea, same thing.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...+R119+O6C&_nkw=PARKER/WATTS+R119+O6C&_sacat=0
Good Luck
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That's a great information resource, -Looks like Milton has updated their catalog..It's to bad you can't purchase direct form the factory. It can be difficult at times finding a re-seller that has the right affiliations with Milton in order to corner the stuff your after lol. That's just the way it has been in my experience, but hey, its getting better...Slowly. Their products are top notch.
I've always utilized an old Milton 1626 Ferrule Crimper to make up specific length lines with High Flow Milton swivels. You can quickly throw an air hose set-up together that looks professional.. You know, without those bulky band or compression clamps. They have those on page 75 in the PDF. Had one for about 10 years and it has really come in handy.
I put a "honey, I don't want to sell it" price on my old compressor on CL. In less than 24 hours it was gone for full asking price. Being patient, I found this little gem to replace it (I got it for a "you ****" price). It was buried under 40 years of dust and grease in a sheet metal shop. They claim to use it a few times a week and works fine. Had an oil leak and they kept topping it off with oil. It was hooked up to an electric drain. Tank was dry and looked good.
It took me a week to degrease and clean it. What a mess. I cleaned the valves and added a solberg filter element. At an industrial recycling shop, I found an electric drain for $10, and the 1/2" ball valve for $2. Now that it is back together, I'm having trouble. After a few cycles to 150 psi, now it won't spin up unless the tank is empty. By 15-20 psi, the motor bogs down and the unloader opens. Can't figure it out. Might be time to scrap the 3 hp motor and upgrade to a 5 hp motor.
It took me a week to degrease and clean it. What a mess. I cleaned the valves and added a solberg filter element. At an industrial recycling shop, I found an electric drain for $10, and the 1/2" ball valve for $2. Now that it is back together, I'm having trouble. After a few cycles to 150 psi, now it won't spin up unless the tank is empty. By 15-20 psi, the motor bogs down and the unloader opens. Can't figure it out. Might be time to scrap the 3 hp motor and upgrade to a 5 hp motor.
Nightshift
Well-known member
Its junk ... I'll give you $50 for it. Bill
hemifalcon
Well-known member
Are you sure the gauge is correct??
The motor and unloader shouldn't have anything in common causing the compressor to bog down I wouldn't think???
The motor and unloader shouldn't have anything in common causing the compressor to bog down I wouldn't think???
As pressure builds, it takes more power to turn. As it bogs down, the speed slows to the point that the centrifugal unloader is spinning too slow to keep the valve closed. Thus, it opens.
I ran it a few times to 145 psi. Next time it bled off, it had the problem. I kept bleeding off the tank to lower pressure to see if it would pump again. I could not get it to pump until I completely drained the tank and it ran until about 15-20 psi. Open the drain valve and it will run.
Xicaque
Well-known member
Just joined the forum. Love to see people as passionate about their workshop as i am.
Well we are currently filling and grading an area for 80x100 steel building in the back yard but for now I'm rigging up the air system in my 3 car garage (drive-thru 2 Car, and one single).
In south west FL water in the air is a never ending thing, and I need dry air for a plasma cutter, soda blaster, and auto painting so here is the majority of the system, minus a few interconnecting hoses.
What is not shown is the dayton speedaire refrigerated dryer that will be on the lower right of the compressor before going thru the HF desiccant dryer.
My aftercooler is a Derale Performance 13614 Plate & Fin Transmission Cooler, with a 600 cfm 220VAC server fan wired into the pressure switch. So far the water separator immediately down stream catches approx 2 oz. of water when filling the tank from dead empty (in approx 75°F, 85% humidity air). Surface temps at the pump outlet go from 275°F to 85° at the outlet of the cooler.
I'm using 3/4" OD refrigeration tubing to go from the compressor/wall to the middle of the garage ceiling where a 3/8" x 50" hose reel will be hanging from the ceiling.
Using the ball valves I can either run: pump->aftercooler-> water seperator -> tank -> water seperator -> regulator OR pump->aftercooler-> water seperator -> tank -> refrigerated dryer -> desiccant -> water seperator -> regulator.
Well we are currently filling and grading an area for 80x100 steel building in the back yard but for now I'm rigging up the air system in my 3 car garage (drive-thru 2 Car, and one single).
In south west FL water in the air is a never ending thing, and I need dry air for a plasma cutter, soda blaster, and auto painting so here is the majority of the system, minus a few interconnecting hoses.
What is not shown is the dayton speedaire refrigerated dryer that will be on the lower right of the compressor before going thru the HF desiccant dryer.
My aftercooler is a Derale Performance 13614 Plate & Fin Transmission Cooler, with a 600 cfm 220VAC server fan wired into the pressure switch. So far the water separator immediately down stream catches approx 2 oz. of water when filling the tank from dead empty (in approx 75°F, 85% humidity air). Surface temps at the pump outlet go from 275°F to 85° at the outlet of the cooler.
I'm using 3/4" OD refrigeration tubing to go from the compressor/wall to the middle of the garage ceiling where a 3/8" x 50" hose reel will be hanging from the ceiling.
Using the ball valves I can either run: pump->aftercooler-> water seperator -> tank -> water seperator -> regulator OR pump->aftercooler-> water seperator -> tank -> refrigerated dryer -> desiccant -> water seperator -> regulator.
HarrolLS1
New member
you can't tell from the pic but there is a filtered vent in the wall in front of the fan and what looks like a wall on the opposite side is a door to access the motor. Thanks for the questions though.
roofster
Well-known member
Picked up my “new compressor” yesterday. It’s a Kellogg-American 335TV on a 80 gallon tank with 5 hp Baldor motor. I bought it from a local compressor shop and they had put new valves and rings in it. It’s putting out about 17.5 cfm at 140 psi and 700 rpm, overall it's fairly easy on the ears.
I don't care for the color and may fix that in the spring. Next will be getting it off the pallet and running the wire for it.
I don't care for the color and may fix that in the spring. Next will be getting it off the pallet and running the wire for it.
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WOW, I just breezed through this entire thread (took two days). I skipped reading some posts, but looked at every compressor photo, and enjoyed all the descriptions I did read. Awesome stuff. I stumbled onto this thread as I want to put together an after cooler for my new compressor. And here are the pictures.
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b-body-bob
Well-known member
Not sure it would cause a problem at that low pressure, but have you looked at the check valve yet? There should be one somewhere between the pump outlet and the tank inlet.
^^^^^^
Since you brought it up, I'll report that I solved the problem.
I gave the belts a coat of belt dressing, and I swapped the start capacitors with the run capacitors. I'm not sure what resolved it, but it is working now. Maybe the belts were slipping, or one of the run caps was not up to par.
But, one step forward, two steps back. The check valve has lightly hissing back out the unloader. I pulled the check valve to clean it, now it leaks even worse!
But the good news, I actually got to use it today, and it ran great! (Despite the leaking check valve)
Roofster andjimgerken, nice compressors! KA and Champion are my favorites. I used the have a KA, and wish i didn't sell it, but now i have a Champ, and couldnt be happier.
Since you brought it up, I'll report that I solved the problem.
I gave the belts a coat of belt dressing, and I swapped the start capacitors with the run capacitors. I'm not sure what resolved it, but it is working now. Maybe the belts were slipping, or one of the run caps was not up to par.
But, one step forward, two steps back. The check valve has lightly hissing back out the unloader. I pulled the check valve to clean it, now it leaks even worse!
But the good news, I actually got to use it today, and it ran great! (Despite the leaking check valve)
Roofster andjimgerken, nice compressors! KA and Champion are my favorites. I used the have a KA, and wish i didn't sell it, but now i have a Champ, and couldnt be happier.
460Rustang
Well-known member
This finally came in today!!!! It is beautiful. I would love to move it into the living room as display only.
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]
It sure is a monster compared to the ole POS it replaced!
[/URL][/IMG]
I have finally joined the Q club
AWESOME buy,......
Robert Hall
Well-known member
Here's a few from my setup I did this summer.. And I would like to apologize for the image size. I'm working on that.
60 Gallon tank with a 220v 5hp compressor
Flex hose made at the local house of hose. Gorilla hose good to 500 psi.
220 volt cut off for the power, the compressor is hardwired.
periodic release valve set to .5 seconds every 45 minutes. Here in Utah it's quite dry.
The hose had a little issue, took it back, all better now.
My little half made franzinator. I have a few peltier to affix with a few more things to make it work well, but it's a start.
60 Gallon tank with a 220v 5hp compressor
Flex hose made at the local house of hose. Gorilla hose good to 500 psi.
220 volt cut off for the power, the compressor is hardwired.
periodic release valve set to .5 seconds every 45 minutes. Here in Utah it's quite dry.
The hose had a little issue, took it back, all better now.
My little half made franzinator. I have a few peltier to affix with a few more things to make it work well, but it's a start.
My Champion will be installed in a building with radiant floor heat, so no drilling into the slab. I was going to do what I did last time, namely to cast a big block of concrete with four bolts sticking out to mount the compressor to, and put hocky pucks under the conc block. But thought there may be a better way to get the needed stability, AND make it easier to move it to the new shop when the time comes. So I went to the metal sales place and got a good deal on some drop pcs of 4x4 tubing, and bought a new pc of 3 inch channel. Added some compressor mounting pads, bolts washers and nylocks, and some screw-adjustable feet under it all, and now have what you see in the pics. The one photo shows the forklift tines on tractor loader close to the welded compressor base, ready to pick it up and set it on the trailer.
