Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
- Start date
Majordisorder
Well-known member
I recently ordered this from Eaton. They built it with a 3-hp Baldor motor I sent to them, otherwise it was based on their 5 hp, 60 gallon but with the proper motor pulley and belts. (existing wire was 10 ga.) Loping along at about 600 rpm, it is quiet and has proved to be more than adequate for my needs.
The 3/4" regulator reduces pressure for the entire system, the 1/2" regulator drops the pressure over to the wood shop which was existing black iron, the garage side is 1/2" L copper. All drops come off the top of the supply line and air has been super dry. The last photo is the shutoff and drain for the through wall to outside drop.
The 3/4" regulator reduces pressure for the entire system, the 1/2" regulator drops the pressure over to the wood shop which was existing black iron, the garage side is 1/2" L copper. All drops come off the top of the supply line and air has been super dry. The last photo is the shutoff and drain for the through wall to outside drop.
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Found a broken 7.5 HP-80 Gallon Husky Pro unit. 23.5 CFM @175 psi on Craig's list. Shop manager wanted it gone as the guys had worked on it for weeks and could not fix it. They lost most of the parts but it had a new replacement 7.5 HP Single phase motor plus 2 other used motors. Shop wanted $500 but I worked on him for a week and no one wanted a broken compressor. Finally got it for $350.
With about another $350 in parts I got a very large volume compressor that would normally run about $2500 or more. It's running on a dedicated 220V 50 Amp breaker with a magnetic starter and wired with 8 Ga wire from the panel.
I then installed a 3/4" RapidAir piping system in a 360 degree loop around my 30' X 40' shop. Have 8 Drops with water drains. I Really like how clean the RapidAir system is too.
2 Harbor Freight air reels one at each end of shop.
Have several drops near the lift.
Need a LOT of air for the blast cabinet of this size!
Since I am in a very hot and humid area I got a used refrigerated air dryer off EBay. Has been working for over 10 years now.
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With about another $350 in parts I got a very large volume compressor that would normally run about $2500 or more. It's running on a dedicated 220V 50 Amp breaker with a magnetic starter and wired with 8 Ga wire from the panel.
I then installed a 3/4" RapidAir piping system in a 360 degree loop around my 30' X 40' shop. Have 8 Drops with water drains. I Really like how clean the RapidAir system is too.
2 Harbor Freight air reels one at each end of shop.
Have several drops near the lift.
Need a LOT of air for the blast cabinet of this size!
Since I am in a very hot and humid area I got a used refrigerated air dryer off EBay. Has been working for over 10 years now.
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Sure-Hope it helps!
I use a 3/4" Filter/Dryer/regulator and a 3/4" flexible hose from the tank to the piping. Set the outlet at 125 psi. The tank runs up to 175 psi.
It's just a cheap chinese unit I got off EBay. A bit of a problem getting a 3/4" one as most are smaller. All pipe fittings (including the ball valve) are Stainless Steel as they are cheap on EBay and I HATE rust!
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I use a 3/4" Filter/Dryer/regulator and a 3/4" flexible hose from the tank to the piping. Set the outlet at 125 psi. The tank runs up to 175 psi.
It's just a cheap chinese unit I got off EBay. A bit of a problem getting a 3/4" one as most are smaller. All pipe fittings (including the ball valve) are Stainless Steel as they are cheap on EBay and I HATE rust!
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Thanks, I have the 3/4 line kit also. Was just thinking about changing out the connecting line or leave it 1/2? I would think if the tank stays caught up on pressure, it would not make any difference on the other end of the line? Maybe someone with engineering would have an answer for that?
gtmedic
Member
Sure-Hope it helps!
I use a 3/4" Filter/Dryer/regulator and a 3/4" flexible hose from the tank to the piping. Set the outlet at 125 psi. The tank runs up to 175 psi.
It's just a cheap chinese unit I got off EBay. A bit of a problem getting a 3/4" one as most are smaller. All pipe fittings (including the ball valve) are Stainless Steel as they are cheap on EBay and I HATE rust!
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I was considering doing this. The previous owner of mine used ¾ black iron that is full of rust and gunk because he never put any kind of water separator in line. Don't wanna jack up my tools.
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bczygan
Well-known member
That's a good point! I went back and forth on using 3/4" diameter when 1/2" would probably be just fine for home use. I think 3/4" pipe is overkill for a home guy but I was only doing this once! I also followed the suggestion to install the piping as a loop 360 degrees around the shop.
I like this idea because when I paint I connect to the farthest air outlet from the compressor. This also reduces any water a bunch as the air has maximum time and distance to drop temperature and moisture.
I looked at many products but after seeing how the RapidAir stuff is built. I went with them. PVC inside and out over an Aluminum tube. All junctions are chrome plated brass with O-ring seals. Water drains at every outlet. This air system will outlast the building and with the very smooth pipe walls I have no water problems at all. Any that gets in there is simply blown out at any of the water drains.
It's a very high quality system compared to metal piping. One draw back is the pipe is shipped coiled up and it's a ***** to get it straight!
Here is a tool I made (Copied from someone else!);
It's just about cosmetics but it really looks professional if you can install it straight. Be sure and order extra tube holding clips. My definition of enough and the manufacturer's are quite different!!
Just a small suggestion to other posters??
Please DON'T use any crappy picture hosting site. They are all junk and will crash and burn at some point taking everything you have uploaded with them.
Post directly to the forum. As you can see on any thread (including this one!) the many blank pictures which are very valuable and now gone forever.
If you upload directly to the forum then your pictures will survive as long as the forum does.
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I like this idea because when I paint I connect to the farthest air outlet from the compressor. This also reduces any water a bunch as the air has maximum time and distance to drop temperature and moisture.
I looked at many products but after seeing how the RapidAir stuff is built. I went with them. PVC inside and out over an Aluminum tube. All junctions are chrome plated brass with O-ring seals. Water drains at every outlet. This air system will outlast the building and with the very smooth pipe walls I have no water problems at all. Any that gets in there is simply blown out at any of the water drains.
It's a very high quality system compared to metal piping. One draw back is the pipe is shipped coiled up and it's a ***** to get it straight!
Here is a tool I made (Copied from someone else!);
It's just about cosmetics but it really looks professional if you can install it straight. Be sure and order extra tube holding clips. My definition of enough and the manufacturer's are quite different!!
Just a small suggestion to other posters??
Please DON'T use any crappy picture hosting site. They are all junk and will crash and burn at some point taking everything you have uploaded with them.
Post directly to the forum. As you can see on any thread (including this one!) the many blank pictures which are very valuable and now gone forever.
If you upload directly to the forum then your pictures will survive as long as the forum does.
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I was thinking about that while reading your post. I think I seen one on U Tube,
I just rolled mine out over the yard, but it was being buried inside another PVC pipe.
I hope to get some lines ran here shortly. Hope I can get my lines straight also, those are the kind of things that bother me later, if something is not level or straight. I even clock the screws on the light switch covers.
But I know other people on here do the exact same thing!
I am right with you on the details!!
I also made sure all the clips are installed the same way and divided the distance between the connections in the pipe so the distance between clips is identical on each run of piping.
Just some small visual things to make it look more professional. One other thing about the RapidAir stuff. Remember you can go back and flex it and re-arrange the piping very easily. I had a few long runs that still looked a bit curved/bent. So I reworked those spots a bit until I was happy with how they looked.
This was another plus in using that type of air system.
One last thing I forgot to mention is getting nice sweeping bends in the pipe was easy using a conduit bender like this;
Now a cheaper more DIY method would be to use a gas bottle or log to get the right radius.
PS; I use to live in Liberal.
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I also made sure all the clips are installed the same way and divided the distance between the connections in the pipe so the distance between clips is identical on each run of piping.
Just some small visual things to make it look more professional. One other thing about the RapidAir stuff. Remember you can go back and flex it and re-arrange the piping very easily. I had a few long runs that still looked a bit curved/bent. So I reworked those spots a bit until I was happy with how they looked.
This was another plus in using that type of air system.
One last thing I forgot to mention is getting nice sweeping bends in the pipe was easy using a conduit bender like this;
Now a cheaper more DIY method would be to use a gas bottle or log to get the right radius.
PS; I use to live in Liberal.
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That looks like a twin cylinder in line. Nice pump.
bczygan
Well-known member
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Wanted to post back as I have been asked for the plans for the pipe straightener I made.
As I said I copied it from someone else. It must be pretty good because RapidAir has it posted in their technical section!
I have attached some instructions and a nice diagram.
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As I said I copied it from someone else. It must be pretty good because RapidAir has it posted in their technical section!
I have attached some instructions and a nice diagram.
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Joe100
Member
Kriesel
Well-known member
Wanted to post back as I have been asked for the plans for the pipe straightener I made.
As I said I copied it from someone else. It must be pretty good because RapidAir has it posted in their technical section!
I have attached some instructions and a nice diagram.
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Thanks for this!
Bellaireroad
Well-known member
bczygan
Well-known member
bczygan
Well-known member
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bczygan
Well-known member
Here's a few from my setup I did this summer.. And I would like to apologize for the image size. I'm working on that.
[snip]
Flex hose made at the local house of hose. Gorilla hose good to 500 psi.
[snip]
My little half made franzinator. I have a few peltier to affix with a few more things to make it work well, but it's a start.
Probably too late for these, but anywhere copper pipe touches unistrut fittings you should at least wrap it with pieces of innertube to prevent dissimilar metal (aka galvanic) corrosion, which will eat holes in those pipes.
Companies actually make specific inserts for this purpose e.g. see these on Amazon or search Google for "cush-a-clamp" (or zoro.com calls them "channel cushioned clamp" but it works better to search there for the vendor they use - "V120NEO")... i.e. I'm not shilling for Hydra-Zorb.
Hope that saves someone from having to run new copper again.
crook038
Well-known member
I feel like I stole this compressor setup. I purchased the Ingirsoll Rand 2475 along with the spare T30 tank at an auction for $250. Yes you read that correctly $250 for both. The listing said the motor was bad, turned out to be a loose connection at the capacitor bank that melted a wire nut and left the circuit open. I haven't finished cleaning up the tanks but think I got a great deal!
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The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'll be the first to say..."You ****!"
speedfreek1210
Well-known member
I'll second that "You ****"!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
linearg
Member
Where did you get the pipe stand off that is attached to the wall
AussieDan
Well-known member
linearg the "foot" and the "clamp" are sold separately at any hardware store, then you use a piece of threaded rod to connect them, that way you can have any stand-off height you need.
Majordisorder
Well-known member
Where did you get the pipe stand off that is attached to the wall
I got them from Pex universe. Supply House also has them. Like AussiDan mentioned, they are two pieces and connect with threaded rod. In this situation I cut short pieces so the clamp tightened against the wall plate.
SuperSwamped
New member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2017
- Messages
- 2
I have a 27 gallon 7hp 3cyl 18cfm compressor that runs to a 60 gallon pig tank with air dryer filter to run Sanders,die grinders, air guns and ratchets as well as my plasma cutter with the options of 3/4 ,1/2 And 3/8 airlines
Running at either 125-145 psi
Running at either 125-145 psi
poppinjohnnies
Well-known member
crook038
Well-known member
Here is the compressor all cleaned up and in good working shape. It cost me 1 wire nut, 1 roll of paper towels and 1 can of WD40 to get it in full working order! I soldered the connections where the wires tied in with the capacitor bank and capped with wire nuts and the fiberglass sleeves so I didn't have another short due to vibration and heat.
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AndyA
Well-known member
Looks like it's the 2574FP. The "fully packaged" version. This means it has the after cooler, and the electric auto drain. Yes, you ****. I bought one of these new a few years ago. It was $2300 iirc.
The after cooler is awesome. I can run the thing extended amounts of time and still hold my hand on the pipe coming out of the aftercooler. Since the air is cool, you'll drop most of the water out in the tank. I've only had any water in my separator (between the tank and the rest of the plumbing) when I've been sandblasting for hours.
smalltown
Well-known member
crook038 It came out quite nice. I wouldn't say you stole it. You took a chance and bought it as it sat, but it turned out to be a great deal for you congrats !
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nice job on the clean-up...looks brand spank'n new! Great score, now get the spare receiver cleaned up, and get em' installed!
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice score for $200!
Does anyone have any information on this compressor? It says Air Source/Snap-On model S340V. Tank manufactured in 1991. I contacted Snap-On and they said it was manufactured by Dee-Blast and discontinued in 1998, but that was the only information they had on it. I'm mostly looking for pump info (CFM, oil capacity, model so I can find parts if needed).
