DeCaff
Member
16.3 CFM @ 175 psi... O...M...G...!!!! Now THAT'S a workhorse!
Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
- Start date
16.3 CFM @ 175 psi... O...M...G...!!!! Now THAT'S a workhorse!
Kjbakke2
ALLIANCE MEMBER
She's not much, but it was a decent deal being only $175 (with a new motor) including the extra tank, a 50ft 1/2" dia. of goodyear and another 50ft 3/8" dia. of no-brand. Also included was a regulator and on/off valve (which seems to bleed air when on). It was hard to find specs on it, but it seems to be an old craftsman/devilbiss 2-stage intercooled setup.
exposed insulation- check
dirt "protective" coat for the concrete- check
television in corner- check
mustang- check
mustang with trans pulled out of it- double check
good lord its almost like im seeing my garage in someone elses posts
engineer2
Well-known member
For work, but I designed and built it.
Not shown is the Coleman Magna-Force 5hp 2 stage main compressor. The Sears unit is just for backup. SpeedAir air dryer. Tank drains and dryer water separator all piped to a timed drain system. 3/4" regulator/filter. Everything piped in 1" copper and it can be isolated without shutting the system down. Digital pressure gauges/transmitters at each critial point and one temperature gauge/transmitter, all with 4-20 mA outputs. Plastic box is for future connection of gauge output signals to an analog-input-to-Ethernet adapter.
Not shown is the Coleman Magna-Force 5hp 2 stage main compressor. The Sears unit is just for backup. SpeedAir air dryer. Tank drains and dryer water separator all piped to a timed drain system. 3/4" regulator/filter. Everything piped in 1" copper and it can be isolated without shutting the system down. Digital pressure gauges/transmitters at each critial point and one temperature gauge/transmitter, all with 4-20 mA outputs. Plastic box is for future connection of gauge output signals to an analog-input-to-Ethernet adapter.
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mustangcrazy77
Well-known member
exposed insulation- check
dirt "protective" coat for the concrete- check
television in corner- check
mustang- check
mustang with trans pulled out of it- double check
good lord its almost like im seeing my garage in someone elses posts
Lol, gotta love a working garage!
This will be the first year I have both an air compressor AND a garage heater! Yeah, that's right....I'll be able to work on the mustang in the WARMTH of the garage during....gasp....the WINTER! Boo ya.
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Here's my latest find Champion 5hp,tank is 60 or 80 gallon. $99 will pick up this weekend. 930
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wineslob
Well-known member
Here's my latest find Champion 5hp,tank is 60 or 80 gallon. $99 will pick up this weekend. 930
Holy carp! Nice find! If I had my druthers thats a maker I'd like to get my hands on. They make very good pumps.
Oh, the price...............................you ****.
wineslob
Well-known member
For work, but I designed and built it.
Not shown is the Coleman Magna-Force 5hp 2 stage main compressor. The Sears unit is just for backup. SpeedAir air dryer. Tank drains and dryer water separator all piped to a timed drain system. 3/4" regulator/filter. Everything piped in 1" copper and it can be isolated without shutting the system down. Digital pressure gauges/transmitters at each critial point and one temperature gauge/transmitter, all with 4-20 mA outputs. Plastic box is for future connection of gauge output signals to an analog-input-to-Ethernet adapter.
Curious, whats with all the transmitters?
rburke65
Well-known member
Have you read ANY of the previous posts?
engineer2
Well-known member
Future connection to an analog input to Ethernet adapter. Then we can monitor the air system from any computer. The plastic wall box is mostly empty right now and all the transmitters are running off of a small plug-in power supply.
MP&C
Well-known member
Eaton 120 gal 33.9 cfm, Pneumatech refrigerant air dryer
Very nice 
wineslob
Well-known member
pcmeiners
Well-known member
How much did each digital gauge run you?
thanks
thanks
OT, but need more info on that rack...looks sweet.
engineer2
Well-known member
The digital gauges (actually transmitters) are $309 each. The temperature transmitter is $389 and includes the probe. If I get around to buying the analog to Ethernet converter it'll probably be around $300. I just thought it would be cool to be able to see the compressed air system status from any computer or cell phone. This setup is extreme overkill, but we manufacture the gauges.
There are companies that make pressure transmitters without a display that are cheaper, if you are just interested in sending the reading to a different location.
If you just want a digital display, any cheap digital tire gauge could probably be adapted to your air compressor and have sufficient accuracy. The nice thing about digital is you can read the actual number from greater distance.
There are companies that make pressure transmitters without a display that are cheaper, if you are just interested in sending the reading to a different location.
If you just want a digital display, any cheap digital tire gauge could probably be adapted to your air compressor and have sufficient accuracy. The nice thing about digital is you can read the actual number from greater distance.
Its not really mine. I haven't had the pleasure of fondling a Distressor or 1176 since I retired from the road. I just couldn't help myself when I read the thread title. And my 40 gallon Campbell/Hausfeld isn't worth posting.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Engineer2, was wondering why so many..did not think about the temperature units, cool. Expensive little buggers, but I must stop and be satisfied with my Curtis setup, already went over board with to many modifications. Perhaps I will pick a couple up on Ebay down the line.
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engineer2
Well-known member
One pressure gauge on each compressor tank. Overkill because both tanks are always online.
One pressure gauge after the air dryer. That way if there is a pressure drop, the air dryer might be frozen up or its internal filter/drain bowl plugged.
One pressure gauge after the filter/regulator. Unexpected pressure drop here would indicate it's time to change the filter.
Temperature gauge after the filter. If it get's too high, you know the air dryer has a problem. It usually runs 5-10° above ambient.
This type of monitoring is needed for a factory. If the air system goes down, production stops. For a home shop, a single mechanical gauge of decent size is sufficient, with maybe small ones at any regulators in the system.
One pressure gauge after the air dryer. That way if there is a pressure drop, the air dryer might be frozen up or its internal filter/drain bowl plugged.
One pressure gauge after the filter/regulator. Unexpected pressure drop here would indicate it's time to change the filter.
Temperature gauge after the filter. If it get's too high, you know the air dryer has a problem. It usually runs 5-10° above ambient.
This type of monitoring is needed for a factory. If the air system goes down, production stops. For a home shop, a single mechanical gauge of decent size is sufficient, with maybe small ones at any regulators in the system.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Overkill is OK, did the same on my setup, better then having issues down the line, besides digital meters are just plain cool.
smooth72
Well-known member
I bet most people did not get your joke, that those are audio compressor. (Video producer for 28 years)
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CarterKraft
Well-known member
here is my 5hp type 30 Ingersol I cobbled together.
Got the pump for nothing, the motor from my dads steam cleaner (haven't told him yet)
and the tank and everything else was new from greenvalleycompressor.com for $400
Got the pump for nothing, the motor from my dads steam cleaner (haven't told him yet)
and the tank and everything else was new from greenvalleycompressor.com for $400
DeCaff
Member
Ok..... so now that my compressor is fully operational, in lieu of my previous post, here's the setup I went with:
I don't like, however, and I have a question for engineer2:
That regulator that I've circled in red (you may have to click the thumbnail to see it).... what is the brand name, where did you get it, and how much was it? I'm not happy with my current setup and we have similar models to yours, at work. There's no name on them though.
I don't like, however, and I have a question for engineer2:
That regulator that I've circled in red (you may have to click the thumbnail to see it).... what is the brand name, where did you get it, and how much was it? I'm not happy with my current setup and we have similar models to yours, at work. There's no name on them though.
DeCaff
Member
Hmm ok bump, and I have another question...
My compressor will fill to 135 psi, and the gauge on the tank reflects this, however, the gauge on my pressure regulator only goes up to about 120 psi... what gives here?
My compressor will fill to 135 psi, and the gauge on the tank reflects this, however, the gauge on my pressure regulator only goes up to about 120 psi... what gives here?
Do you need 135 psi for any of your air needs. Most use 90 psi.
engineer2
Well-known member
What kind is yours?
I'll have to check, but it's probably a Wilkerson or Norgren filter/regulator I bought from McMaster-Carr. It's a 3/4" and seems to work fine even though everything is 1" .
For some reason 1" filter/regulators are hideously expensive so I went with 3/4".
Most places selling them will state the CFM rating, so you can size it right for your compressor.
BTW, do not get an FRL (filter/regulator/lubricator). You don't want oily air if you are painting, sandblasting, or cleaning something
It's a Norgren 3/4" Aluminum body filter regulator McMaster-Carr part 4910K15 around $90. McM-C isn't the cheapest, but you get it fast.
I'll have to check, but it's probably a Wilkerson or Norgren filter/regulator I bought from McMaster-Carr. It's a 3/4" and seems to work fine even though everything is 1" .
For some reason 1" filter/regulators are hideously expensive so I went with 3/4".
Most places selling them will state the CFM rating, so you can size it right for your compressor.
BTW, do not get an FRL (filter/regulator/lubricator). You don't want oily air if you are painting, sandblasting, or cleaning something
It's a Norgren 3/4" Aluminum body filter regulator McMaster-Carr part 4910K15 around $90. McM-C isn't the cheapest, but you get it fast.
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harvey4804
Well-known member
This isn't mine, it's my Dad's. He had been asking me for advice on buying a compressor, and I found this one at a garage sale for $30. I checked it out, cleaned it, painted it, and had a custom decal made for it, and gave it to him for his birthday. Our last name is Fowler.
It's a 220v Craftsman that runs super quiet and holds air great. I couldn't find a deal like that for myself if I had to. Dad was happy, that's what really matters.
Joe
found one just like this for $75 on CL. thinking about offering him $50.
thirdmouse
Well-known member
Here is my 80 gallon 2-stage Champion. The tag on the motor specifies 3hp, 20A, 230V, 1750rpm. I paid $230 for it a few years ago at an auction. It came out of a home shop in which the guy had obviously painted a few cars. I had better pictures of it but our computer crashed recently and I'm afraid they are lost. It is tucked way back in a corner and isn't moving again for quite a while.
Attachments
DeCaff
Member
Probably not. I don't really like the regulator, though. It goes to a max of 110psi (160 advertised
). So, say I have it set at 90 psi for an air ratchet... it'll go to 90 psi and then decrease as I'm using the tool. It won't hit 90 again unless I turn the compressor off, drain it, then let it fill to 135 again.Garbage.
the spyder
Well-known member
The 3 horse r15 pump is rated for 11.5 CFM at 90psi. Bumping up to a 5HP gets you to 19.5cfm @135psi.
mustangcrazy77
Well-known member
You need to adjust the regulator after you've blasted the air tool for a few seconds in order to get the steady state pressure set. Chances are the gauge reads only 110 while the regulator is able to handle pressures up to 160max.
Teikas Dad
Well-known member
My wife got me this one for Christmas...haven't installed it yet as the new shop is still under construction. It will replace an old Craftsman that's been kicking around for about 30 years. I wanted the wall mounted unit to give me more floor space. I'll only be using it for woodworking air tools so it should have plenty of cfm's to handle what I need.
DeCaff
Member
Ok I have a small question here. I was forced to remove the radiator and thermostat housing from my 94 Saturn today. The radiator bolts came off w/out any issues (this is using my air tools). Then I got to the thermostat housing and the bolts REFUSED to come off. This is even at 115 psi, impact wrench on highest setting (250 ft/lbs).
Well, then I broke out the hand tools. A simple 10mm socket on a 3/8" drive and a 2" extension broke the torque w/out any hassle. W....T...F????
This is, of course, in 15 degree weather with a snow covered ground so I guess it's possible I had ice in the line. I have an air drier attached, however, so there shouldn't have been ANY water/ice in the line.
I'm thinking it's either time for a different pressure regulator (the air dryer and pressure regulator came as one unit. The air dryer works really well but the regulator seems to be junk), or the fact that I have to use 100 ft of hose is taking too much air pressure away from the tool. LOL ok sorry this is so long but I needed to vent a little.
Well, then I broke out the hand tools. A simple 10mm socket on a 3/8" drive and a 2" extension broke the torque w/out any hassle. W....T...F????
This is, of course, in 15 degree weather with a snow covered ground so I guess it's possible I had ice in the line. I have an air drier attached, however, so there shouldn't have been ANY water/ice in the line.
I'm thinking it's either time for a different pressure regulator (the air dryer and pressure regulator came as one unit. The air dryer works really well but the regulator seems to be junk), or the fact that I have to use 100 ft of hose is taking too much air pressure away from the tool. LOL ok sorry this is so long but I needed to vent a little.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Try it with 25 feet of 3/8 hose. You would be surprised at how much 100 feet of rubber hose can kill performance of you airtools. I would also get another gauge and check your regulator.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Pressure loss calculator....
Pipe size must be in 100ths, such as 1/4"=.25, 3/8"=.38 1/2"=.50
http://www.about-air-compressors.com/air-lines.html
Small pipe size regulator/filters, add considerably more resistance then those of larger pipe size, eg my compressor piped nomimal 1" on all pipe/regulator/filters.
Pipe size must be in 100ths, such as 1/4"=.25, 3/8"=.38 1/2"=.50
http://www.about-air-compressors.com/air-lines.html
Small pipe size regulator/filters, add considerably more resistance then those of larger pipe size, eg my compressor piped nomimal 1" on all pipe/regulator/filters.
DeCaff
Member
No can do. I don't have a garage so I'm forced to work in my backyard. 100 feet of hose reaches exactly where I need to be.
In the meantime, I'll invest in a Dayton regulator.
Cryptic1911
Well-known member
how about an engine lift / cherry picker? thats how we've always moved my dads
I built a really sturdy cradle for mine that I strapped to the tank While it was upright on the pallet. That allowed me to tip the whole thing onto its side/cradle by myself. Once it was lying in the cradle the feet were about 20" off the ground. I removed the pallet and rocked it back onto its feet.
