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Compression - Show Off Your Compressor

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
18,939
Location
Northern Virginia
Here are the parts list for my Quincy QT-54

Magnetic Motor Starter = Eaton B27CGF30B040 5HP 1 Phase 208-230V 30A
After-cooler = AKG C-3560BG
Fan = EBM Papst W2E200-HH86-01
Tank drain (bottom) = Moisture Minder Pneumatic Drain Valve 152-0000
After-cooler automatic drain = Tsunami Water Separator 21999-0390
Hour meter = Trumeter 722-0004
Intake muffler = Solberg SLCR100

Lu-Max

Thank you for the parts list.

The Tsunami Water Separator 21999-0390 is listed with 1/4" ports. I assume you had to use adapters to choke your copper pipe size down. Any noticeable affect on flow reduction? My compressor appears to have 3/4" piping from the compressor head to the tank and is in the 22 cfm range.

Where did you find the fitting at the tank drain to connect the Moisture Minder drain? Neat fitting.

I assume your Pabst fan flows in the same direction as the pully fan blades?
 
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Lu-Max

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Jan 8, 2014
Messages
745
Lu-Max
Any noticeable affect on flow reduction?

Nope. The QT-54 only does about 16CFM tops. No discernible affect on tank fill time.

My compressor appears to have 3/4" piping from the compressor head to the tank and is in the 22 cfm range.

I would recommend the model 21999-0131 (float style) for your compressor. Else similar model number for the electronic (21999-0131-ED) or pneumatic (21999-0131-MM) ones. They are 1/2" but good for up to 50CFM.

Where did you find the fitting at the tank drain to connect the Moisture Minder drain?

Tsunami Part number 21999-0317, Deluxe Install Kit. This kit has been modified since I bought it, it includes far more pieces now.

Just the fitting can be found here = LINK

I assume your Pabst fan flows in the same direction as the pulley fan blades?

Yes. Augments the cylinder head cooling.
 

u3b3rg33k

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Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
4,047
I use my compressor in the fall to blow the leaves off of my roof. Each time I've done it I have tripped the motor temp button and I always have to wait for a reset. After I added the front fan it stopped tripping. Might be overkill, but if it works it ain't stupid.

have you checked amp draw to make sure the motor isn't overloaded? you shouldn't
"need" an aux fan to keep the motor from tripping on thermal. it's possible you're cooling the overload heater but not helping the windings stay cooler if it's a rolled steel motor.
 

Lu-Max

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Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
745
have you checked amp draw to make sure the motor isn't overloaded? you shouldn't
"need" an aux fan to keep the motor from tripping on thermal. it's possible you're cooling the overload heater but not helping the windings stay cooler if it's a rolled steel motor.

I have not checked the amp draw but I will now.
 

Lu-Max

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Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
745
The Moisture Minder automatic tank drain on my compressor has not been functioning normally after it's recent move. At the end of a pressurizing cycle it used to discharge air and moisture for 2-3 seconds each time. Depending upon the humidity, sometimes an appreciable amount of water would be discharged. Lately all that's been happening is a tiny "gurgle" sound and a tiny discharge of moisture. So I took it apart to find a bunch of crud inside of it. Also a bit of corrosion. I have always run this compressor with an intake air filter, an after cooler water drain, and a 50 mesh strainer in the line that connects to the MM, yet it still filled up with crud. I carefully cleaned it and the reservoir tank out and reassembled it, now it's functioning normally again. I will make this an annual (at least) procedure going forward. This crud was on the water intake side, not the air pressure end. The air end had some residue in it which cleaned up easily.

MM-Rebuild-B.jpg

MM-Rebuild-C.jpg

MM-Rebuild-A.jpg

MM-Rebuild-D.jpg

MM-Rebuild-E.jpg
 
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LS6 Tommy

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Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
have you checked amp draw to make sure the motor isn't overloaded? you shouldn't
"need" an aux fan to keep the motor from tripping on thermal. it's possible you're cooling the overload heater but not helping the windings stay cooler if it's a rolled steel motor.

X2. You may be killing your motor slowly.

Tommy
 

Lu-Max

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Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
745

Although I don't have a Y strainer, the MM connector has a 50 mesh screen in it. That crud somehow made it past that screen.

21999-0300.jpg
 

LS6 Tommy

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Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ

Although I don't have a Y strainer, the MM connector has a 50 mesh screen in it. That crud somehow made it past that screen.

21999-0300.jpg

The crud is waterborne, and is smaller than #50. It accumulates and makes the crud. Every strainer I've ever taken out of an autodrain was plugged. If it's a electric solenoid style autodrain, they usually are plugged, too.

Tommy
 

BE58P

Active member
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
Messages
29
Location
Smith Mountain Lake, VA
EMAX (5hp) arrived yesterday. Today’s project was to get it unwrapped and off the pallet.
IMG_3381.jpg
I used some pavers as support to get the pallet off the ground.
IMG_3394.JPG
Next I unbolted the main cross members from the pallet. But the carriage bolts were cut and spun in the wood when I tried to remove the nuts. A torch would have been handy. But I did not have one. I hooked up my old compressor and used an air chisel to remove the nuts. Then I jacked up the cross members to expose the bolt midway and cut them off. This allowed me to remove the rest of the pallet from under the cross members.
IMG_3396.jpg
Next I worked the pavers/spacers from under the cross members to get the cross members onto the ground.
IMG_3399.jpg
I used one of the pallet boards to place under the tank to allow me to raise the unit with the floor jack. That allowed me to scoot it into position. It fits!
IMG_3401.jpg
Now I need to wait for the electrician and I need a longer flexible hose to connect to my existing Rapidair system.




Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

u3b3rg33k

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Dec 18, 2017
Messages
4,047
new guy at work:
attachment.php


missing front cover is on the way.
 

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u3b3rg33k

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Dec 18, 2017
Messages
4,047
That blue tank looks almost exactly like my well water storage tank.

I wasn't sure if it was going to come emax branded or black. I like the blue paint job, but I like a working compressor more.

it did come fast which was good because I had to swap a bearing out of my QR-25 motor to rehab it. got lucky, it was the rear bearing.
 

Stedlin

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Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
318
Location
Duluth, MN
compressor.jpg

This 2HP R&D compressor has a displacement of 15 CFM. It will not work using a tank check valve.
The solenoid operated 1/2” gate valve is required. The head and cylinder temperature never exceeds 160 degrees F.
I once failed to shut it off while pumping and the pressure got so high it pinned my 200PSI gauge. It was probably close to 250 PSI.
It scared me. Shear luck something didn’t blow.
 

TJMtl

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2018
Messages
247
Location
Montreal
Picking this up next Monday.
PL 737-80
707 pump
5hp Baldor, 80 gallon horizontal
magnetic starter
Head unloaders/Dual control
Low oil shutoff
Aftercooler
auto drain
Pressure lubricated
spin on filter

will be mounted on my Bora PM3550 portamate


edited for completeness...


16DD1D7A-2C8F-48DB-B1A4-37EC7B104A0A.jpeg
 
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Josh the IH guy

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Joined
Jun 5, 2021
Messages
159
Location
West fork, AR
Picking this up next Monday.
PL 737-80
707 pump
5hp Baldor, 80 gallon horizontal
magnetic starter
Head unloaders/Dual control
Low oil shutoff
Aftercooler
auto drain
Pressure lubricated
spin on filter

will be mounted on my Bora PM3550 portamate


edited for completeness...


16DD1D7A-2C8F-48DB-B1A4-37EC7B104A0A.jpeg
That is one **** machine. Nice!
 

oldmachinenut

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Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
2,511
Location
Missing, presumed dead in central Pa.
Here are my 2 Quincys, the orange one is a 1947 Gilbarco with a Quincy 310 and a 2hp. motor. I have been using it daily since 1981. The blue one I built from parts is a 1984 325 with a 5hp. motor, the 215 frame Westinghouse I previously posted. The second pic of the 325 shows the aftercooler.
 

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tunerwithkids

Active member
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Messages
33
Location
FL
Just had to relocate this to my garage due my company selling the buildings and relocating.
Such a shame....I think it only has a couple hours of run time on it.

I had similar luck. Except mine is a 2003 sitting outside for 18 years (which I’ve never seen run in the 13 years I’ve worked there).
Luckily someone knew better and removed the drain plug.
Had to refurb and replace all the valves, capacitors and wear fittings.

added a DIY Aftercooler too.
91059CCE-4D5B-4D8D-B80D-40C2C7CB8ACD.jpeg
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Stedlin

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Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
318
Location
Duluth, MN
compressor.jpg
This is one of my prototype compressors. Powered by a 115V 2HP 1725 RPM motor. Displacement is 15.9 CFM. 1st stage bore is 4.5" and 2nd stage is 2.75". Stroke is 1".
Does not use a tank check valve. Uses a custom air operated gate valve instead. It has a pressure operated inlet restrictor. Tank fill time calculations show a actual SCFM of around 12. Maximum pressure reached 240PSI.
 

Ole Slewfoot

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Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
5,098
Location
Freedom, CA
Duly noted. It looks like they were running 3 units in parallel. the temperature logging chart in the machine on the wall is dated 2011, and I I found a stack going back to about 1984. This was a facility for the cold storage of apples.
 
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