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Compressor Pump Teardown...RIP. Replacement?

JonnyC

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Green Bay, WI
I bought an older Campbell Hausfeld 5 hp 60 gallon compressor on the cheap from a local auto shop that was upgrading. This has a VT series pump (two cylinder in-line) that was weeping quite a bit of oil. I finally got it wired up last week and to my surprise it reached 120 psi and was generally functioning fine, but I wanted to freshen up the seals.

I ordered up a gasket kit before even tearing the pump down, which was a mistake. I took it apart tonight and saw major wear in the rear cylinder from the wrist pin...

IMG_20140410_203126_zpsfd2d31a0.jpg


Then looking at the head, I see part of the valve broke off and was partially blocking the exhaust port...

IMG_20140410_212639_zps1ae71bd6.jpg


Granted it still functions, but it would be nice to get a new pump. Any advice? None come up on Craigslist by me. Most new ones are really expensive. The only options I was thinking of are:

1. Newer VT pump $250
2. NorthStar pump from Northern Tool $250
3. Polar / Eaton pump $250
4. HF for around $180

Or do I just say screw it, cut my losses, and buy a whole new compressor for around $500?
 
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kams1973

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What's the diameter of the cylinders. I have a lot of used parts for these bad boys. I may be able to help you out for the cost of shipping.
 
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JonnyC

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What's the diameter of the cylinders. I have a lot of used parts for these bad boys. I may be able to help you out for the cost of shipping.

~2.75"

The crank also "walks" a little bit. Not sure what type of bearing is used for the connecting rods, but that can't be in good shape either :(
 

kams1973

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There's a lot of endplay with these pumps. The conrods are all aluminum and have not bearing inserts. I do have a good used cylinder, but if the crank is bad, I won't be able to help.
Those pumps used either needle bearings or bronze bushings. The older pumps used the bronze.
 
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JonnyC

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Huh, no bearings on the connecting rod, interesting. It uses needle bearings on each end, and the front of the crank looks good at least. As for play, you can easily see the flywheel move in and out as it's running. No bad noises or anything.

I'll PM you about the cylinder, thanks!
 
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JonnyC

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Thanks a ton for this info. I couldn't find any info online about these VT pumps.

One other question which is probably stupid, but how come the head has two exhaust ports with one capped off? Seems pointless to have two when they are both exhausting air from the same chamber.
 

kams1973

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These pumps were rebranded by CH for Sears, Speedaire, Montgomery Wards, etc... I believe the multiple ports were to accommodate the many different tank/baseplate configurations under different brands.
 

countryroad82

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Next time go by my line of thinking on old equipment, if it ain't broke don't fix it!!! If the pump turns out to be terminal, I've been having good luck out of my Eaton.
 

Davefr

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With all the reports of compressor explosions I say replace it.

I would have never thought a compressor could act like a diesel engine due to lack or maint. or wear.
 

zkling

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Can I ask how much you are into this thing for? In general it's not a great idea to purchase a compressor from a auto/tire/body shop unless it is a industrial unit. Barring seldom circumstances, those places have the tendency to run the piss out of them and not think twice.

If it still works a bit and is somewhat efficient I'd just keep using it till it completely dies then either part out the rest or upgrade just the pump. Are you sure it has neele bearings on the crank? Is it a USA made pump? I use to have an "extreme duty" VTxxyy USA made looked like that and I'm farily certain remember both sides having a fairly beefy radial ball bearing.
 
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JonnyC

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I'm into it $150 right now. Agreed on it not being the best idea, but I knew I could just replace parts as needed.

Yup, USA made pump, and it has needle bearings.

If I can get a cylinder from Kam I can freshen this thing up on the cheap, so that's the route I'm going for now.
 

zkling

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That sounds like a good plan. Maybe keep an eye out for a compressor with a bad motor that you can take the pump off of.

I'm into it $150 right now. Agreed on it not being the best idea, but I knew I could just replace parts as needed.

Yup, USA made pump, and it has needle bearings.

If I can get a cylinder from Kam I can freshen this thing up on the cheap, so that's the route I'm going for now.

What is the full model number on the unit? Interesting on the needle bearings. I wonder when they used those. Here is the the pump that was on the one I had.

http://www.aircompressorpartsonline...003-pump-campbell-hausfeld-parts-p-17665.html
 
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JonnyC

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JonnyC,
I work at a CH Service Center. Have you tried pricing a new cylinder? I'm having trouble looking it up based on the number you posted.

Model number of the compressor assembly is VT558704. Compressor pump is VT510702JY, and looking on searspartsdirect (here) it looks like the cylinder is VT009600AG.
 
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JonnyC

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One more specific question: It seems the retaining clips for the wrist pins are hard to come by, at least by the part number listed for my model. It looks like this...

ST070236AV_retain_ring.jpg

found here

Would I be able to use an internal retaining ring instead, like these...
91580a211p1l.png

here

Or I could maybe find the same style self-locking retaining ring in the same size as the factory part.

Also, these aren't cracks in the piston are they? I was just thinking they were a result of the casting.

IMG_20140411_160626Small_zpse48f32f6.jpg
 
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kams1973

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The Speedaire model for your pump is 2z499C

I'll have to look for an equivalent CH number.

The retaining clip you asked about earlier is the same one used in the modern VT pumps.
 
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JonnyC

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You rock Kam! Grainger actually has some parts locally, and this will make it a lot easier to reference parts online.
 
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JonnyC

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I stopped at Grainger today to have them look up parts for 2Z499C. All they had was a valve set. So much cross referencing though I'm not even sure what model to use to find new rings and other parts.
 
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JonnyC

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A big thanks to Kam for sending me a cylinder. It looked like just a bit of surface rust in the bore, but I just picked it up from a machine shop and there was a good amount of pitting.

IMG_20140424_102532Small_zps2427d931.jpg

IMG_20140424_102504Small_zpsee59cdd6.jpg


Do you think that would be worse to use than my original cylinder, which is in excellent shape except for the huge gouge in the side?

IMG_20140424_103219Small_zps4c856ecb.jpg
 
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JonnyC

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Cool. I'll toss it together tonight or tomorrow and get it up and running. What is the proper break-in procedure? I don't expect this thing to perform all that well, but I'll run it into the ground and pick up a new pump then.
 
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JonnyC

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Got the frankenstein looking pump back together. Tomorrow I'll toss it on the tank and break it in. Had to order 1/2" internal retaining rings from Grainger for the wrist pins. Hopefully one won't push its way out this time. While it was apart I figured I would weld on some ghetto cooling fins to the top plate and put a coat of high-temp paint on - I figured it couldn't hurt.

IMG_20140429_234000Small_zps8b8b4f39.jpg
 

sberry

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Nice job and you mention a good point. I got to work on it on some jobs but if its humanly possible tear down first and then order parts.
 

Burgerkong

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Did you order your gasket kit from eBay? My problem with my CH frankenstein was that the piston surfaces received quite a lot of gouges and damage from a loose reed valve screw (pics in sig) LOL.
 

b-body-bob

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Did you order your gasket kit from eBay? My problem with my CH frankenstein was that the piston surfaces received quite a lot of gouges and damage from a loose reed valve screw (pics in sig) LOL.

I noticed when I had my Champ disc valves out, the tiny bolt holding them together faces away from the head so if one somehow comes loose nothing falls into the pump. Pretty miserable that your pump didn't provide that kind of fundamental design integrity.
 
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JonnyC

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Did you order your gasket kit from eBay? My problem with my CH frankenstein was that the piston surfaces received quite a lot of gouges and damage from a loose reed valve screw (pics in sig) LOL.

Wow! That is crazy. Yeah, I ordered the gasket set off ebay, although I wish I ordered from www.compressorpartsstore.com as it's the cheapest (although the gasket is wrong between the head and the top plate, but I could have reused mine).
 
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JonnyC

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It's up and running. Ran it for 20 minutes or so with the tank valves open before having it fill the tank. Here's a video of it running...

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ZQLhANLVk6w" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The video exaggerates it, but it runs kind of "clanky". I just ran it now up to 120 psi and it did great, but that "clanky" noise is somewhat still there, although not as loud when it's not running under load. Almost seems like it's coming from the flywheel.
 

mayday0017

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If the flywheel is walking it will make lots of noise, tighten it down. If you can't tighten it enough either add a tack of weld to the end once on or wrap a couple wraps of electrical tape around the shaft before putting the flywheel on kinda as a shim.
 
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JonnyC

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When I first got this compressor and fired it up, it was making a much worse noise. I had to tighten the flywheel set screw and that made it better. It's tight now, but making somewhat of the same noise.

I think I might pull the flywheel and check the key and keyway. I had to use a rubber mallet to get the flywheel on, and will need a puller to get it off, but maybe it's rotating on the shaft. I guess it's time to buy a puller instead of doing the free rental again.
 

C96

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Lol, dumb question here, but is it rotating in the correct direction?
Sometimes people don’t even think about it, or bother to check!
 
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