ConCretin
Well-known member
Looking great!
Concrete Prep
- Thread starter Dyno Dan
- Start date
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Looking good Dan. Top Notch! 
rburke65
Well-known member
Nice job....lots of screwing around....I know....but worth it.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Very nice work, smooth surface so the slab can move with little resistance. It is always so much better when you know you did it right.
Yup, trying my best to get it right. With the resources and support on the GJ I’m thinking it’ll be a nice slab.
What I find interesting is my “concrete buddy”, an old friend who works doing architectural and decorative concrete, was “vocal” about my decision to use a vapor barrier and rebar chairs. “Not necessary.....just going to be in the way....”
In the end he’s doing my concrete work, so I’ve been trying to listen, learn, and maintain our friendship. He likes to ***** and moan a bit, so I expected this. He’s a bit of perfectionist too as it regards to this sort of thing, so his reaction was interesting to me
What I find interesting is my “concrete buddy”, an old friend who works doing architectural and decorative concrete, was “vocal” about my decision to use a vapor barrier and rebar chairs. “Not necessary.....just going to be in the way....”
In the end he’s doing my concrete work, so I’ve been trying to listen, learn, and maintain our friendship. He likes to ***** and moan a bit, so I expected this. He’s a bit of perfectionist too as it regards to this sort of thing, so his reaction was interesting to me
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gagecalman
Well-known member
That's interesting about the rebar chairs.
I had a concrete driveway done years ago. The owner didn't use the chairs.
He had to keep yelling at his guys "pull up the steel, this guy paid good money for it".
Still makes me wonder how much of my rebar is at the bottom of my slab.
I had a concrete driveway done years ago. The owner didn't use the chairs.
He had to keep yelling at his guys "pull up the steel, this guy paid good money for it".
Still makes me wonder how much of my rebar is at the bottom of my slab.
ConCretin
Well-known member
What I find interesting is my “concrete buddy”, an old friend who works doing architectural and decorative concrete, was “vocal” about my decision to use a vapor barrier and rebar chairs. “Not necessary.....just going to be in the way....”
In the end he’s doing my concrete work, so I’ve been trying to listen, learn, and maintain our friendship. He likes to ***** and moan a bit, so I expected this. He’s a bit of perfectionist too as it regards to this sort of thing, so his reaction was interesting to me
A vapor barrier is really only necessary if you have moisture in your soils and intend to apply an adhered flooring or coating. Finishers often don't like to see them because it complicates finishing with increased bleed water.
It's possible to pull up the mesh as you go but it takes a lot of diligence on the part of the finisher and is too often neglected. Most of us don't trust them as far as we can throw them. Supports provide peace of mind that your reinforcing is where it should be.
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Well we live in a narrow valley with a creek on both sides, and we’re essentially in the lowlands. Our 20 acres has plenty of marshy spots, and the water “pumps up” each spring to ground level in certain spots. I built the shop on the highest ground we have, and brought in 650+ yards of 4-5” gravel to mitigate moisture concerns.
Beyond that I do want a floor coating. So, in the end I get the best vapor barrier I could find.
In regards to the bleed. Any tips or tricks to make sure I don’t end up with a piss poor finish. Is it just time and patience by the finishing crew?
Beyond that I do want a floor coating. So, in the end I get the best vapor barrier I could find.
In regards to the bleed. Any tips or tricks to make sure I don’t end up with a piss poor finish. Is it just time and patience by the finishing crew?
ConCretin
Well-known member
I think you made the right call with a vapor barrier. The best way to minimize bleed water is to minimize mix water. Specify a mid range water reducer when you order the concrete. It will give you a nice workable 5-6" slump with less water than would normally be required to achieve a 4" slump.
You'll also be aided by the fact that you have roof over your slab. One risk from excess bleed water occurs when then the slab surface sets up too fast due to sun or wind. If the finisher moves too quickly and seals up the surface, water pools underneath and creates blisters and de-lamination. If its a hot, windy day, you might be prepared to put up shades and wind blocks. A calm, cool day is always ideal.
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Pressingonward
Well-known member
Nice pictures - makes the process really clear from back here in the cheap seats 
purediesel
Well-known member
No insulation under the slab??
.....and more
Dude, that's a huge Slip-N-Slide. . . oh wait
I thought I checked into this thread a while back but apparently never posted.
It's looking good Dan.
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DJF3
Well-known member
Yes....I am going with an overhead radiant heater and no in floor heat. I'm going to put 3" R12 EPS under my slab. Thought process is that the overhead will heat the concrete, and the heat will be retained better than if the slab were directly on the ground. There will be a vapor barrier as well. And 4 ft ICF foundation walls. Might be overkill, but I don't think I will have cold concrete!
Ok, 1 step closer. I’m at 8” of depth at the door thresholds. Just a bit more rebar and then the “pour boys” are coming in Wednesday. My concrete buddy said we’ll need a couple sheets of plywood to wheelbarrow the mud to the back of the shop (36’ depth, and concrete shute won’t reach that far). Plan is to lay it on top of rebar, I just hope it doesn’t crush the chairs.
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You've probably come up with a plan with the main concrete guy by now, but it's not really a big issue to pour over a vapor barrier in a shed like this. We always use some air entrainment (usually about 4-4.5%) for power troweled floors on VB, as well as a small dosage of mid-range water reducer. We typically pour a 5" slump or tighter, which limits the bleeding issues as well. I would be prepared to have the ability to close the OH doors if necessary, depending on sun and wind conditions.
Good Luck!
Pouring on Wednesday! Concrete buddy said to pull strings and triple check the depth measurement. “You don’t want to run out of concrete during the pour”. We’re pouring a 26x36 slab, 5” thick with 8” thickened edges at the two 10’ door thresholds.
Never been so excited for a chunk of flat surface. Woohoo.
Never been so excited for a chunk of flat surface. Woohoo.
I got roped into running a wheelbarrow but I can officially say I was part of the process.
It’s poured!
It’s poured!
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ConCretin
Well-known member
Great job! Congratulations on the new floor.
Tbender78
Well-known member
Looks great. Congrats
So I've been looking at floor coating options, both expoxy and polyurea. I have questions...
What temperature is acceptable for application on either product. It's getting cold at night, as low as 28 degrees thus far. Is the concrete temp a concern, or the ambient temp, or combo of both.
Concrete was left naked and the finisher left some "fuzz". Do I need to grind in order to get proper adhesion, or can I apply as is.
What's the hot ticket to fill my expansion joints. Do they get filled before or after the coating goes down?
What temperature is acceptable for application on either product. It's getting cold at night, as low as 28 degrees thus far. Is the concrete temp a concern, or the ambient temp, or combo of both.
Concrete was left naked and the finisher left some "fuzz". Do I need to grind in order to get proper adhesion, or can I apply as is.
What's the hot ticket to fill my expansion joints. Do they get filled before or after the coating goes down?
Can someone help me understand what’s going on here? I did “water the slab” for about 20 days after the slab was cut (which happened the day after the pour). I’m on day 37 now, so it should be cured, and I did put two 16” pieces of plastic to check for moisture and there wasn’t a drop.
I intend on coating, so I don care what this looks like now, I’m just curious about the difference in color. Also, there are a couple of spots where there are some tiny cracks, pits, and voids. I’m thinking I had better mechanically grind the slab, etching may not be the hot ticket.
I intend on coating, so I don care what this looks like now, I’m just curious about the difference in color. Also, there are a couple of spots where there are some tiny cracks, pits, and voids. I’m thinking I had better mechanically grind the slab, etching may not be the hot ticket.
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TractorJeff
Well-known member
That's interesting!
Mine stayed that same black/dark color! I didn't get those white splotches like yours.
I assumed it was because it was poured in October and cured real slow? The Concrete Guys sprayed it with some type of Sealer also?
Mine stayed that same black/dark color! I didn't get those white splotches like yours.
I assumed it was because it was poured in October and cured real slow? The Concrete Guys sprayed it with some type of Sealer also?
Poured on the 26th of September. No sealer, completely raw.
After a good cleaning (heck it’s new concrete), and 2 etching sessions, pressure washing 3x, this is where I’m at. I had some trouble with white powdery residue that persisted after the etching, hence the 3x rinsing.
Nice spell of warm weather here in Montana, so I hope to coat with Rust-oleum Rock Solid when I return from a business trip on Tuesday. I did my best and I hope this product works well.
After a good cleaning (heck it’s new concrete), and 2 etching sessions, pressure washing 3x, this is where I’m at. I had some trouble with white powdery residue that persisted after the etching, hence the 3x rinsing.
Nice spell of warm weather here in Montana, so I hope to coat with Rust-oleum Rock Solid when I return from a business trip on Tuesday. I did my best and I hope this product works well.
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Falcon67
Well-known member
The higher the epoxy content of the floor paint, the better IMHO. I used an K-M industrial floor coating that was engineered for less than perfect surfaces. Etched, dried and rolled. 9 years, no problems or lift. Warm drag tires leafe rubber on the floor, no paint lift.
Mine was blotchy even after etch. As long as it's good and dry, should not be any problems I'd think. And mine cured in 100F+ weather. This pre-paint etch pic was 6 months after pour
And after
Mine was blotchy even after etch. As long as it's good and dry, should not be any problems I'd think. And mine cured in 100F+ weather. This pre-paint etch pic was 6 months after pour
And after
6sally6
Member
See post #67 The question about "filling expansion joints". Care to elabrate on that?
Chris705
Well-known member
The grey Sika-flex self leveling caulk available at HD is a lighter grey than your floor color (I believe closer to the light grey chips you used)....so I don’t know how you would like it..
I believe these caulks can be tinted to any of several colors, not sure where you found your vapor barrier and rebar chairs but if it was a real contractor supply house they may have insight on availability of colors?
Btw - awesome job on your project!
I believe these caulks can be tinted to any of several colors, not sure where you found your vapor barrier and rebar chairs but if it was a real contractor supply house they may have insight on availability of colors?
Btw - awesome job on your project!
Mowerpan
Well-known member
I would not fill them in with this. I did this to mine and the caulk is slightly sticky after install just enough to pick up dust/dirt and now the caulk is darker and just looks dirty. If I did it again I would not fill them in.
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