3 Units Sitting uptop
Are you feeding all 3 from a shared circuit,what tonnage are they?
X2. You can't feed more than one unit from one circuit. They each have to have to be fed from a separate breaker.
IIRC there is even a tool for tightening wire nuts.
X2. You can't feed more than one unit from one circuit. They each have to have to be fed from a separate breaker.
Tommy


Sounds good too.I bought an Ideal Ratch-a-Nut screwdriver when wiring my shop.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NB85LM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Although the pic doesn't show it, the driver has an opening in the end of the handle that ratchets and is used for tightening wire nuts. Saved my hands from quite a bit of abuse.
I always pre-twist with linesman pliers and then trim before installing the wirenut.
DC
Not sure if it's code where you live, but out here, there must be a disconnect for each unit within X distance. In my case, I think 18-24" right next each unit.
It's not that close. Has to be within line of sight but can be several feet away. I can't cite the exact number. But, you are only allowed 6 feet of Sealtite so you might as well put it within 6'.
l am just a DIY'r and my theory on twist vers. not twist, is if the manufacture says not to twist, I usually do not.
Like l said, my grandfather was a Union Sparky for ever, if I wasn't such an *** hat young jerk, that didn't give a **** about learning anything, I could tell you the way he did it. and as far as I recall, the jobs he did on the side, I jacked/stalled around helping him, he never had any comebacks.
It's a pity, some guys grow up early in life, and some late in life.
I could have learned a lot More from him than I did.
Well better late than never I guess?





That's not quite true. Sealite is allowed to be run as long as you want when strapped properly. Only 6' can be run unsecured
The disconnects just have to be in the line of sight of the equipment.
Doesn't anyone else use a nutdriver to tighten the Ideal tans? REally saves on your fingers.
Chuck one of those nut driver things in a cordless drill if youre doing lots of them.![]()

Anything that can be done can be way overdone, too
![]()
EDIT: The employee was fired shortly after this for using meth



What was the issue that they didn't work,did the wires break or not twist onto each other in the nut.




The wires were #10, and the tape did nothing for the wirenut except to catch and hold moisture (it was pointed with the base up). The connection already had Scotchkote applied to it.
It was in a 480 volt light pole at a new car dealership.
I was given the task of repairing it, because it was made up entirely wrong and didn't work at all. There were about 20 of these that he had made up.
I had to cut off all the twisted insulated part of it in order to fix it.![]()
So DC, l take it then you like that tool you showed

Clearly the obvious take-away message here is....only meth-heads use tape on wire nuts, right zmax?![]()
What was the issue that they didn't work,did the wires break or not twist onto each other in the nut.
Zmaxmotorsports said:If theres water getting into the wire nuts Id say theres a bigger issue someplace with water leaking that needs to be dealt with

If 3 fusible disconnects are used at the units the circuit becomes a feeder just like a panel feeder, and is not a branch circuit anymore.
The rule only applies to branch circuits.
Those are SOP in the EU. I'd buy them in strips of 15 at the Ferramenta (Italian local hardware store) and trim them to the needed # of connectors. I don't recall ever seeing a wire nut the entire time we were there. They work great, but can be an SOB to get back apart if needed.
A wire to the fixtures was just hanging (one of the Orange wires) loose in the pole, stripped, and contacting the grounded pole, so it got supplied with 277 Volts instead of 480. Another yellow wire was just deadended in the pole. There should have been 3 wires at the connections instead of 2.
The moisture came from condensation, as do all outdoor installations to some extent or other. It was VERY near the Coast, on Pacific Coast Hwy. Being taped and installed base up, the moisture just didn't have a chance to evaporate.
Here's another example of his stellar work
![]()

I still wrap wirenuts with super 33 from time to time depending on the situation to keep maintenance guys and craigslist electricians from screwing with things,slows them down anyway.
I also wrap my switches and outlets with super 33 before shoving them in the box.
I don't normally twist solid wires before installing wirenuts,I do twist stranded wires together though.
As far as the rookie remark about tape I don't worry too much anymore.Ive still got a couple of active electrical licenses,1 says master electrician and the other says electrical contractor.
Both allow me to work in several different states besides Nebraska,So apparently I have managed to learn something in the last 30 plus years of bending pipe and pulling wire.![]()
l don't know nothing about wire wire nut limits, but isn't that box way too full?That's some Purdy work there!
How does the moisture evaporate with no air flow inside of fixture?
Coast hwy?Im going to try and make it to carmel/monterrey sometime this summer,I haven't been out there in a couple of years.
Clearly the obvious take-away message here is....only meth-heads use tape on wire nuts, right zmax?![]()

zmaxmotorsports said:How does the moisture evaporate with no air flow inside of fixture?


I agree, I dont twist solid wire, and depending on application I still wrap the wire nuts with tape. But I am a HVAC guy and you don't want to deal with call backs because something vibrated lose up in a ceiling in a movie theater.
If something vibrates loose, it was either the wrong connector, or improperly installed.