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Covel surface grinder : Tossed some paint on .

y'sguy

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Beautiful Job!
Just for us regular old garage weekend non machinists hacks, can you explain more what you use that for?
And don't say surface grinding! : )
 
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thieltech

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Interested in cleaning, polishing and painting tools, materials and procedures you used.

Everything is incredibly OCD.

And nice job with the VFD's. Does that mean the feed is powered? It must be.

yes table is powered and so is Z feed or ( Y on bridgeport )

theres a Relay setup to a limit switch on the z (Y) feed with adjustable stops.
once the cut is complete ,the saddle hits the limit switch which trips the relay which shuts down feed table and spindle at the same time .it puts spindle in stop mode so it follows a decelaration profile. ( helps keeps wheel from slipping on hub )
 
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thieltech

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Nice job...didn't you do a BP mill before?

yes , the blue one , with all the gagets , tool changer , micro dropper spray mister etc.

that was a easy paint job compared to this one lol
think i was done with in a year on the mill
 
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thieltech

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Interested in cleaning, polishing and painting tools, materials and procedures you used.

Everything is incredibly OCD.

And nice job with the VFD's. Does that mean the feed is powered? It must be.


As for the cleaning i used castrol degreaser , wd-40 , wire brushes ,scotch pad , brass wire wheels ,metal polish and lots of elbow grease .

everythings sprayed so theres tons on taping and plastic / rubber plugs used to keep certain areas free of paint. and protect certain things from glass bead .

all the hardware is hand filed and polished to get it looking good ,then dipped in caswels black oxide liquid to give it that new look .

ive spent alot of time trying different things to get better results .

time and patients is by far your best tool.
 
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bczygan

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As for the cleaning i used castrol degreaser , wd-40 , wire brushes ,scotch pad , brass wire wheels ,metal polish and lots of elbow grease .

everythings sprayed so theres tons on taping and plastic / rubber plugs used to keep certain areas free of paint. and protect certain things from glass bead .

all the hardware is hand filed and polished to get it looking good ,then dipped in caswels black oxide liquid to give it that new look .

ive spent alot of time trying different things to get better results .

time and patients is by far your best tool.

Thank you for the info.

I am starting a file on this for machine rehab.

Did you use electrolysis for any of this?

Is the Caswels a better option than actually having something black oxided?

And what is your filling and painting process?

Bill
 
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thieltech

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Thank you for the info.

I am starting a file on this for machine rehab.

Did you use electrolysis for any of this?

Is the Caswels a better option than actually having something black oxided?

And what is your filling and painting process?

Bill
'

Yes i used Electrolysis for the table and the large coolant guard.
i bought a large green tub at fleet farm thats used for horses.
i had 6 anodes place through out.

For filler i used Rage brand light weight filler . i like it because its easy to sand with no sand paper clogging.

after stripping and degreasing i use a torch to help loosen old filer and burn old stuff off casting.
then sand with 80 grit.
wipe down with acetone .
start applying filler .
dry over night .
shape it all with 80grit
filler again in low spots.
sand with 100grit
then jump to 180 grit over whole thing
let bake in sun for couple days.
apply heavy coat of high build primer .
sand with 180
apply another heavy coat of high build primer sand with 320
let cure for day or 2
wipe down and apply light coat of sealer primer.
let dry 4hrs
apply top coat after mixing with hardener
this paint you must apply second coat within 2 to 4 hrs
apply 2nd coat .

Now take pictures and drink a monster energy drink and enjoy the shiny new looking machine
 
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thieltech

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the caswell black oxide coating works ok.
the key is to polish the metal with a very clean / fine wire wheel on a bench grinder---- ( i believe this opens pores in the metal allowing the chemical to get deeper into the metal for a deeper blacker look)---- , after you clean with brake cleaner . it will penetrate the metal much much better and not just rub off.
last step is to wash the part off in clean cold water , that cures it so to speak.

then apply wd-40 and you will have a bolt that looks better then new

All my hardware that was banged up ........ i file straight and sanded flat with 180grit on a DA sander and then polished on a very fine wire wheel.

the wire wheel also takes the fine sanding marks out .

its extremely time consuming , but the little things like hardware really make for a nice clean looking machine

ive spent many many many hours trying different things to get good black factory looking hardware .

i started off useing the caseys bluing that fleet farm sells . but that takes about 5 to 10 dippings to get it near black .
 
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bczygan

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the caswell black oxide coating works ok.
the key is to polish the metal with a very clean / fine wire wheel on a bench grinder , after you clean with brake cleaner . it will penetrate the metal much much better and not just rub off.
last step is to wash the part off in clean cold water , that cures it so to speak.

then apply wd-40 and you will have a bolt that looks better then new

All my hardware that was banged up ........ i file straight and sanded flat with 180grit on a DA sander and then polished on a very fine wire wheel.

that takes the sanding marks out .

its extremely time consuming , but the little things like hardware really make for a nice clean looking machine

What brand and type of paint products? I also like your color choices....which are?

BTW, Your work is the best machine rehab **** I have seen. I keep having to go back and look at it again.

And the Bridgeport you mentioned. Anyplace we can see photos of that rehab? I've got one to do.

Bill
 
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thieltech

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What brand and type of paint products? I also like your color choices....which are?

BTW, Your work is the best machine rehab **** I have seen. I keep having to go back and look at it again.

And the Bridgeport you mentioned. Anyplace we can see photos of that rehab? I've got one to do.

Bill

thank you , i do take alot of pride in my work , and i love sharing and helping others as much as i can

PAINT---------
9100 Epoxy Mastic Coating, White, 1G
 
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thieltech

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the bridge ports on welding web and cnc zone some were .

think its listed as bridgeport round ram rebuild

i know the one on welding web theres tons of pictures
 

A_Pmech

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That idea sounds interesting, any pointers on suitable chips/sensors?

I personally like the Freescale MMA7260QT. Pololu used to offer a breakout board for it. Now, they offer the MMA7361LC which is basically the same device with only two selectable sensitivity ranges instead of four.

With that said, almost any low-g analog accelerometer will work. You can even make your own with a magnet and some wire or a small speaker. Although such sensors can have resonant frequencies that coincide with machinery imbalance frequencies if no thought is put into the construction.

You'll also need a strobe signal to trigger the scope and define 0 degrees on the rotating shaft. A simple reflectance sensor and a piece of reflective tape will work.

I'll be doing some balancing work soon with my setup and I'll try to make a quick how-to.
 
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thieltech

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I personally like the Freescale MMA7260QT. Pololu used to offer a breakout board for it. Now, they offer the MMA7361LC which is basically the same device with only two selectable sensitivity ranges instead of four.

With that said, almost any low-g analog accelerometer will work. You can even make your own with a magnet and some wire or a small speaker. Although such sensors can have resonant frequencies that coincide with machinery imbalance frequencies if no thought is put into the construction.

You'll also need a strobe signal to trigger the scope and define 0 degrees on the rotating shaft. A simple reflectance sensor and a piece of reflective tape will work.

I'll be doing some balancing work soon with my setup and I'll try to make a quick how-to.

Plz do id like to build one just to play around with and get more electronic's experience!
Thanks

By the way do u have any new projects your documenting like the doall ??
there such a good read!
 
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thieltech

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Beautiful Job!
Just for us regular old garage weekend non machinists hacks, can you explain more what you use that for?
And don't say surface grinding! : )

certain knives , hss tooling for lathe ,

some different shafts on hydraulic pumps i rebuild.

other jobs etc that come into the shop.

i also love the finish it leaves , so use it for pure looks on some projects.

also have some vises and a dividing head that need to be trued up.
 
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thieltech

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Truly beautiful work and definitely a little OCD. That's a good thing. I have some paint lying around, can you "throw" some on some of my pieces?

lol yea i suppose i exaggerated slightly there .

my family does say i have a ocd problem with being neat and organized.

i just like being prepared for any situation should it arise :)

and thank you
 
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thieltech

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Super nice. Hope she grinds well.

same here , im itching for the bearings to get here so i can put spindle back together!!!!

im finishing Z feed handle feed mech , once the spindles in i can atleast use it as a manual grinder till i finish all the mechanical drive gear for automation.
im not sure i can be patient much longer . been almost 2 yrs since i started.:lol_hitti


Thanks
 
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thieltech

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anyone know were i can get a parts break down or manual for this machine? model-10

the manuals for the model-15 seem to be plentyfull.

same with 7A

Thanks
 

zkling

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Fantastic job. Cleaning any grinding equipment is the worst in my experience. Chips are one thing, but that grinding sludge gets everywhere and then hardens. :rant:
 
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thieltech

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All the parts that make up the Z feed hand and auto feed mechanism ( it would be the Y on a bridgeport )

Before

Ready to Assemble
 
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thieltech

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Beautiful restoration! When's the first run going to be made?

hopefully soon ! this projects dragged on for a year and a half .

but theres still a ton to do .

all the automated parts and motors and gear box need to be gone through yet .

plus the new spindle bearings installed and reassemble it all .

i get a headache just thinking how much has been done and still needs to be done.

guess its just a little cleaning job though :spit:
 
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thieltech

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^^ There better be a video of it. Looks so damn nice I don't think I could bear to run it!

it does look nice , and i like having nice pics of it after its complete .

but it will most definitly get used alot .

So the pictures will preserve the shiny birth
 

Mike.ASC

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Do you restore old machinery as a business or is this something your doing for yourself and if so what is your intended use for this restoration?
 

A_Pmech

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Two years? Sounds about right. I spent about that long to get my surface grinder running, but I didn't have the opportunity to go though it in the same fashion you have!

I recommend getting a pair of cut edge belts for the variable drive. Unlike standard molded V-belts, cut belts have the "V" profile machined after molding. As a result, the cross-section is much more uniform and they don't thump and gallop.
 
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thieltech

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Two years? Sounds about right. I spent about that long to get my surface grinder running, but I didn't have the opportunity to go though it in the same fashion you have!

I recommend getting a pair of cut edge belts for the variable drive. Unlike standard molded V-belts, cut belts have the "V" profile machined after molding. As a result, the cross-section is much more uniform and they don't thump and gallop.

Good to know . Now that you say theres a difference it makes sense , the belt i bought for the bridgeport mill was a bando and i recall that had nice clean crisp edges all around . Must have been the cut style.

Is there a spec or model for this style ?
i will do some research. Iam still some what amatuer on belt specs.:headscrat
 

A_Pmech

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Is there a spec or model for this style ?
i will do some research. Iam still some what amatuer on belt specs.:headscrat

If you specify a "cut edge" or "raw edge" belt you'll get one with a machined edge as opposed to a wrapped belt like you have.
 
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