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FrankLee

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4/7/2024

Recent progress on my lift...

Cast iron parts stripped and wire wheeled.

IMG_3939.JPG


One more slight variant with the oil port access on the gear housing cover; bottom vs side.

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4/8/2024

Masking complete, ready for prime time.

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4/9/2024

I'll let the primer cure until the weekend when the weather gets nice again.

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4/14/2024

Sprayed a couple top coats. One final coat after a week or so.

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Snip's

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I'm losing ground behind you FrankLee...
I bought two 2-1/2 gal jugs of Simple Green to degrease my lift parts...
They've been soaking for 2 days now and the SG has not removed any of the original gray or sudo-PowerMatic green paint...
Normally, the SG does a good job acting as a paint remover.... I wonder if SG has cut back on the lye?? in their formula...
I'll next try some Citristrip...
IMG_3673.jpg
 
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FrankLee

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I'm losing ground behind you FrankLee...
I bought two 2-1/2 gal jugs of Simple Green to degrease my lift parts...
They've been soaking for 2 days now and the SG has not removed any of the original gray or sudo-PowerMatic green paint...
Normally, the SG does a good job acting as a paint remover.... I wonder if SG has cut back on the lye?? in their formula...
I'll next try some Citristrip next...
I used lacquer thinner in jars for the crank handle and plate, and a small plastic container for the column collar pieces. I did not have to completely submerge the pieces to soften the original paint. I used maybe a cup of LT.


For the most part, I'm going to follow the same script as my last lift. In addition, I'm replacing the upper jam nut with an acorn nut and I'm painting the outer circumference of the small set-screw collars.
 

Snip's

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I'm painting the outer circumference of the small set-screw collars.
I noticed that on one of your previous lifts...
My garage has pretty bad condensation issues with rust forming on ferrous items I've cleaned... Oiling seems to be a temporary fix...
I may like to copy your method...

I'm going to seran wrap CitriStrip coated parts and see how that works out with removing the stubborn paint...
I've used it in the past for stubborn paint, and it's not a disposal issue...

Thanks for the suggestions...

The acorn nuts are a nice idea...
 

Snip's

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Bearing source;
I located the NICE thrust bearing on Amazon, that's used on the lift....
Ordered 1pc and got 10pcs @ $6.13...Wasn't expecting that...

IMG_3674.jpgScreen Shot 2024-04-08 at 8.54.16 PM.png
 
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FrankLee

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Bearing source;
I located the NICE thrust bearing on Amazon, that's used on the lift....
Ordered 1pc and got 10pcs @ $6.13...Wasn't expecting that...
Wow, NICE deal! Ten of those bearings will go a looooong way.
 
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Prospecter

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I noticed that on one of your previous lifts...
My garage has pretty bad condensation issues with rust forming on ferrous items I've cleaned... Oiling seems to be a temporary fix...
I may like to copy your method...

I'm going to seran wrap CitriStrip coated parts and see how that works out with removing the stubborn paint...
I've used it in the past for stubborn paint, and it's not a disposal issue...

Thanks for the suggestions...

The acorn nuts are a nice idea...
Fluid Film / Woolwax seems to work pretty well in my damp shop. Wipe on, Wipe off. Generally lasts several years.
 

Snip's

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Fluid Film / Woolwax seems to work pretty well in my damp shop. Wipe on, Wipe off. Generally lasts several years.
Thanks for the suggestion...
I have a can of Fluid Film... I always thought it had to stay as a thick sticky layer...
I'll try wiping it off and see how it goes...
 

Prospecter

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Thanks for the suggestion...
I have a can of Fluid Film... I always thought it had to stay as a thick sticky layer...
I'll try wiping it off and see how it goes...
I try to wipe off as much as I can, still works. Lots cheaper by the gallon can with a chip brush, though less convenient.
 

Snip's

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Here's a similar era drill press in Findlay, OH with an MSA, a table lift, extra table, mid/late '60s motor and misc accessories.
Too high and too far for me, though.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1752222455189499

@Snip's, how far from you?

418734757_24500566189591060_2877074991896837026_n.jpg 418734757_24500566189591060_2877074991896837026_n2.jpg
Findlay OH is about 100 miles away from me...
The DP with the lift and 3rd pulley looks to be in really nice condition... Lots of nice accessories...
Uggg... I don't need another DP... Two's enough....
 
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FrankLee

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Findlay OH is about 100 miles away from me...
The DP with the lift and 3rd pulley looks to be in really nice condition... Lots of nice accessories...
Uggg... I don't need another DP... Two's enough....
I bought my last two drill presses for the accessories. I then basically flipped them with doing just a little to clean them up. I still did well.
 

Snip's

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Applied a heavy coat of CitriStrip to the parts and wrapped the pieces with saran wrap and let them sit undisturbed for a couple of days...
Unwrapped them and rinsed the pieces with warm water and and went over them with a scrub brush... No rubber gloves...
I'll be adding painters tape and get them ready for paint...

I feel the CitriStrip worked well... Considering you can't get the "good paint stripper" anymore...
IMG_3704 3.jpg
 
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FrankLee

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Those pieces are looking great!
 

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Outlawmws

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I also picked up this table saw.

Surprised to see the second table top bolted on like that - I did that, but I had 2 full saws setup on a single rolling stand, - Since been sold. I just didn't need that much saw, (I'm using a 7" 1935 tilting table saw and its been fine for 99% of what I do)


I really only wanted the Powr-Panl.

Something besides the switch and box?
 
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FrankLee

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Here's the 115.6963 motor from the free table saw above. The date code on the badge is L1 48. It's pretty nasty... the switch was removed, the wiring is fubar and it's packed with dust.

This motor is virtually identical to the 1725 rpm model 115.6962.

IMG_3994.JPG IMG_3995.JPG IMG_3996.JPG IMG_3997.JPG


The "seller" mentioned in his fbmp ad that the motor did not work. In my experience, "does not run" rarely means "will not run". Usually, no-start problems include bad plug, bad cord, bad capacitor or tripped thermal switch.

I pressed the thermal reset, wired up a temporary cord and switched the motor on. Nothing.

I pressed the thermal reset switch again, more firmly this time, and heard it click. The sound was very similar to the centrifugal switch clicking at shutdown. I flipped the switch and success! The large cloud emitting from the motor is dust, not smoke.

So, the shutdown-to-stop time was a very long 50 seconds. The bearings are very loud and very dry. IMO, this further debunks the theory the long run down times mean the bearings are in great shape. I'm going to perform addition testing on shutdown-to-stop timing.


I've got the motor apart and could not believe the amount of saw dust pouring out.

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The bearings cleaned up beautifully. Zero axial or radial play.
IMG_4130.JPG

4/22/2024

I completed the motor this morning.

With clean, dry bearings, shutdown-to-stop time was still long and still loud as expected.

After lubricating the bearings, shutdown-to-stop was a much better 15 seconds and much more quiet.
 
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FrankLee

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This morning, I picked up this Craftsman 100, 103.24520, DP#140.
The female splines in the pulley bearing shaft are somewhat worn, but it still works. I haven't checked spindle run-out yet.
This will likely be a parts machine.

397988088_6363138423814997_6531517678896759188_n.jpg
 
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endangeredspecies

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This morning, I picked up this Craftsman 100, 103.24520, DP#140.
The female splines in the pulley bearing shaft are somewhat worn, but it still works. I haven't checked spindle run-out yet.
This will likely be a parts machine.

397988088_6363138423814997_6531517678896759188_n.jpg
Looks to be in decent shape.
If it's a parts machine, and you want to part out the feed handle, or at least the knobs, hit me up.
 
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FrankLee

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Looks to be in decent shape.
If it's a parts machine, and you want to part out the feed handle, or at least the knobs, hit me up.
This is one of the very last 100s with all the new and upgraded features that include the rapid-adjust feed stop, the pivoting motor mount, the snap ring on the lower quill and the 1/2-13 threaded hub and rods. But it still has the older spring with the loop and tang with the external spring tension knob. The date code on the motor is 3 58.

I won't likely separate the knobs from the rods. You'd need the hub and rods with the knobs. It's a nice upgrade. I did this swap and the others mentioned above on my mid-'50s 100.
 
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FrankLee

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I picked up this Emerson gen 2 drill press (DP#143) this past Sunday. It's rather rough, but I need a short piece of the floor-standing column for another project. I'll refurbish this machine and convert it to a bench model.
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The table in the seller's photo above was attach to this auxiliary table support. The oe table was lowered to the base.

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This assembly is very heavy duty and appears to be commercially made. I really like the fact that it can be r&r without dismantling the machine.

I seem to recall seeing one of these before. Anyone know anything about it?



7/7/2024

I have the table mount repainted and parked it here for the time being until I decide how I'll use it.

IMG_5278.JPGIMG_5280.JPG
 
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Cruzan80

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Posting here as I have a feeling someone can ID it faster than me searching. Found part of what I think is a MSA, ideas what it fits and what is missing? Grabbed the closest thing to an pulley arbor I saw.

Edit: Forgot to mention, looks like some Atlas/CM blue under the gray in a few spots.
 

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FrankLee

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Posting here as I have a feeling someone can ID it faster than me searching. Found part of what I think is a MSA, ideas what it fits and what is missing? Grabbed the closest thing to an pulley arbor I saw.

Edit: Forgot to mention, looks like some Atlas/CM blue under the gray in a few spots.
Yes, that is the base for a Slow-Speed pulley for an Atlas drill press with the sway-back head casting. Missing the bearing shaft and pulley.
 

WilsonLR

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Hi everyone. Long time since I was here. I have enjoyed my refreshed/furbed 103 DP since completing it in 2021 (post #4976 of page 125). It has only seen light use. Unfortunately I apparently contracted case of stupid-itis and installed a footswitch on it. While that was life changing for me, it may have been life ending for my motor. It no longer turns on. It started to go and then stopped. The switch is ok so I am thinking capacitor.

1) Can I test the capacitor?
2) If it's bad and given replacements are not available, is my next move to engineer a modern cylindrical capacitor?
3) If it tests OK, what might be the next thing to look at?

TIA @FrankLee @11b30b4 and everyone.
IMG_1533.JPG
 
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FrankLee

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Hi everyone. Long time since I was here. I have enjoyed my refreshed/furbed 103 DP since completing it in 2021 (post #4976 of page 125). It has only seen light use. Unfortunately I apparently contracted case of stupid-itis and installed a footswitch on it. While that was life changing for me, it may have been life ending for my motor. It no longer turns on. It started to go and then stopped. The switch is ok so I am thinking capacitor.

1) Can I test the capacitor?
2) If it's bad and given replacements are not available, is my next move to engineer a modern cylindrical capacitor?
3) If it tests OK, what might be the next thing to look at?

TIA @FrankLee @11b30b4 and everyone.
Why do you think the foot switch caused the problem?

If it stopped suddenly and didn't hum, it's likely not the capacitor.

I read through your earlier posts and didn't see whether you replaced the motor cord. I can't imagine you wouldn't have, but...
Quite a while back, someone nearby replied to my craigslist ad for a refurbished drill press. He actually already had a 100, but asked if I could look at his motor because it wouldn't run. I brought it home, took it all apart, cleaned everything and reassembled. Dammit, it still didn't run. I don't recall how I discovered it, but a wire in the original plug broke. A new cord was all that was needed.

Does the motor hum when turned on?
Does it run when you spin the pulley by hand?
Have you tried to reset the thermal switch?

I'm not familiar with testing the cap. I know some use a meter, but I don't know what the reading is for a good cap.
 

WilsonLR

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Thanks Frank. I don't know that it's the switch. Just an assumption. I did replace the cord and I tested power through the switch. I tried the reset several times. There was no hum. I'll try spinning the pulley this afternoon.

UPDATE: Spinning the pulley does not get it going. There's a starter mechanism isn't there? Any advice on what to do next?
 
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FrankLee

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Thanks Frank. I don't know that it's the switch. Just an assumption. I did replace the cord and I tested power through the switch. I tried the reset several times. There was no hum. I'll try spinning the pulley this afternoon.

UPDATE: Spinning the pulley does not get it going. There's a starter mechanism isn't there? Any advice on what to do next?
Ok.

It could be a broken wire on the front or back side of the terminal bar, the centrifugal switch or thermal switch.
It could be a bad thermal switch.
It could be just the windings went bad.

It's probably time to crack open the motor and check everything inside.
 

WilsonLR

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Ugh. I remember stopping at tearing the motor apart in my refurb cuz "if it ain't broke" .....

I learned checking the capacitor is easy with a multimeter that has a micro-ferrad (uF) capacitance setting. Here's a straight forward video on it:

Anyway, time read up on @11b30b4 motor thread here and see what I can do with my motor.
 

Cruzan80

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Usually a DMM capacitor check is a "If it says failed, it is 100% dead. If it says good, it may still be bad."

First issue I would do is put a DM onto the power leads at the motor, and ensure that when the switch is flipped, the motor is actually getting power. If not, you know that it isn't the motor. Once you have ensured power to the motor, post up what issues are happening and a picture of the motor tag, and we can help diagnose next steps.

No hum and not working when spun by hand before power applied generally is not a capacitor issue. The capacitor is the part that applies an extra "kick" of power to help it start spinning and drops out when it gets up to speed. The "hum" is when it doesn't have the extra "kick" to start it spinning, and the rotor is fighting itself.
 

Cruzan80

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Btw, I saw this about 2hrs after it was posted, and by the time a friend asked about it, it had already "sold" to someone.

So somebody in CO got an outer-space level of Vacuum Suckage...
 

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FrankLee

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Btw, I saw this about 2hrs after it was posted, and by the time a friend asked about it, it had already "sold" to someone.

So somebody in CO got an outer-space level of Vacuum Suckage...
Damn. I felt that from Michigan and wondered what it was.

That's a very cool set-up. That's only the fourth Atlas radial arm I've ever seen in pictures and I bought one of them.
 
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WilsonLR

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It's a 115 motor exactly like 11b30b4 has in his thread. No hum. Spinning doesn't help. Disconnected, the capacitor reads 150 uF. Power is going through the switch fine.
IMG_1534.JPG
 

Cruzan80

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Yeah, between the radial attachment, the table lift, and the fact it had the base from a multi-gang press, it was amazing. I was trying to talk friends into grabbing it for me, when I had left on vacation the day before....
 

Cruzan80

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@WilsonLR , just to confirm, you are reading voltage while plugged in, at/past the switch? Just wanting to remove the power cord/switch from the list of possible issues. I have seen it stop due to a broken wire inside the cord, and was chasing my tail since I was getting continuity thru the switch/etc, when testing unplugged.
 

WilsonLR

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Ok good news. @Cruzan80 you made me realize I didn't test the return leg of the power cord (there wasn't easy access). So I broke into the circuit and verified both conductors of the power cord are OK. Then I realized I didn't actually measure voltage through the switch, just continuity. FLASH - SPARK - DANG -ARC WELDING!!!!!

Note tip of Fluke lead after arc welding with it. :-(
Solder problem.jpg

I discovered a bad connection on the outbound side of the switch. I bypassed the switch and Bob's your uncle. Motor works fine.
Solderproblem.jpg

This brings me to a problem I have always had with the electricals of this unit. I am unable to melt the solder or get anything to stick to the original wires using my normal electronic flux and equipment. Is the problem just that a 20w iron is insufficient?
 

Cruzan80

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Glad you got that fixed, even if it was eventful! I forget on these if there are eyelets to solder around/thru, or if you can use crimp connectors. Will look when I get home and see what I have done.
 
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