Craftsman Drill Press

[Craptain]

Do you know what kind of wood was used on the original handles? Is the wood ball screwed onto the shaft or an interference fit? I've got a wood lathe and might tackle it. I have a tig welder and have some friends that are machinists. I have a lot of options. I like your screwdriver handles but I think the wood ones are just so classic and reminiscent of times past. I did start a flickr account and got my pics right on the previous post. I'm a career I.T. enterprise administrator and was feeling like Ahab earlier while trying to get the pix worked out. I didn't feel like troubleshooting and learning a new hosting site just to share my drill but I did...Thanks for this thread and all the info you have acquired and shared!

I have a couple of early dp's, including a model 100, and neither have wood knobs. They are plastic, just a dense hard plastic. Kinda similar to Bakelite but black. But I like the idea of wood, and if you do then go ahead and make wooden ones.

 

[Kapn.K]

I stand corrected. I even questioned myself after I posted and walked downstairs to look at it. With my readers and a magnifying glass, I still couldn't tell. It must be the red bakelite looking stuff.

 

[Warped5]

The original feed knobs were a form of plastic. Early were red and later were black. I'm not sure when they switched.

Mine were black and I'm pretty sure they were bakelite.

 

[bubinga]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Why not just host pictures here, are the other sites better resolution?

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[FrankLee]

Custom Switches, Craftsman Motor 115.6962 Overhaul, Custom Fasteners

5/21/2016

Custom Switches

It seems that most of the drill presses I've had or seen have some kind of custom switch installed. The vast majority are simply residential lighting wall switches inside single-gang handy boxes attached to the side of the head frames.

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Occasionally, you come across a "unique" set-up for a custom switch. Here are a few unusual set-ups that I've had.

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Here is the latest odd-ball switch. The motor switch was relocated to the end of a custom made bracket and wrapped with electrical tape... unacceptable to me.

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Yet another electrical *********** on dp#20.

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I never actually saw this one in person, but it definitely qualifies as unique. I do not recommend doing this.

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5/31/2018

Here's another unique custom switch on dp#42. It's actually a pretty decent fabrication.

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7/15/2017

Here are a couple Craftsman motor accessory switches that were available from Sears. They replace the terminal cover on certain later frame mounted motors. There were several styles of motor-add-on switches, but this style first appeared in the 1964 catalog.

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This was also an optional accessory which was essentially a single outlet power strip.

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Craftsman Motor 115.6962 Overhaul

The motor above, a 1/2 hp model 115.6962, will be overhauled and the switch will be reinstalled in the motor base. I've documented a few motor refurbs, so I won't go into too much detail here.

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I'm using my two-phase approach again and have the end caps removed and repainted. This motor is relatively clean and the wiring is in good shape.

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5/24/2016

The motor is back together and phase 2 disassembly is complete.

The stator band had minimal rust, so I'm trying a vinegar bath to clean it up. I use a small one gallon bucket (inexpensive at HD) and vinegar (inexpensive at SamCostClubCo's). Insert a tall gallon jug in the bucket and insert the motor band around the jug. Pour in enough vinegar to cover the band. Let it work for a couple hours. Wipe off rust and polish with cleaner wax or similar.

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I also bumped out that bend in the badge and have it soaking in mineral spirits to remove some of the grime.

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The band and the badge cleaned up very nicely! I used Meguiar's cleaner wax to finish them off.

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5/26/2016

Custom Dual Drive, Hex-Socket/Hex-Head Screws

When I removed the end cap from the switch/terminal side of this motor, there was very little slack in the wiring. That made it difficult to remove the screws from the electrical assemblies.

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I knew that reinstalling the original screws would be even more difficult, so I replaced the original 8-32 screws with these new fasteners made from hex socket set screws and hex nuts. I used red thread-locker to secure the nut to the end of each set screw. Now, I can wrench these screws from either end.

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This made it much easier to start the screws in the threaded holes. I had to drill and tap the switch assembly holes through to the outside of the end cap, but that was no big deal. Reassembly was a piece of cake!

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5/28/2016

The motor is back together and runs as good as it looks!

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[Outlawmws]

Frank, I'm not sure if its just me but the 4th pic in the 3rd row says the photo is no longer available?

 

[FrankLee]

1982 Schwinn Bantam

Frank, I'm not sure if its just me but the 4th pic in the 3rd row says the photo is no longer available?

My fault... bad syntax on my actual fourth picture. I think it's fixed now. Thanks.



5/21/2016

I picked up my next vintage project. It's way off topic, but this will be fun. My 5yo grandson needs a bike at our house, so I found and bought this from a craigslist ad. It's a 1982 (Nov) Schwinn Bantam convertible. I don't believe the handle bars are original, and maybe the fenders, but it will clean-up nicely. It will be a user, not a collector bike.

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5/23/2016

My wife was away for the weekend, so I had lots of time to work on the bike.

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It's nearly complete, but the chain is still soaking and I ordered a new seat, handlebar grips and training wheels.

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[dcpugh]

This looks great! I have the same drill. I'm wondering what you used for the motor mount? Mine will need to be replaced in the refurbishing project and I'm not sure how to approach that. Thanks!

Dave

 

[FrankLee]

This looks great! I have the same drill. I'm wondering what you used for the motor mount? Mine will need to be replaced in the refurbishing project and I'm not sure how to approach that. Thanks!

Dave

What model is yours? Which mm do you have and what happened to it?

 

[dcpugh]

I will check the model when I get back to the shop this weekend. There is a MM on the drill but it's very rusty. I might be able to salvage it but I'm not confident I can remove it without having to cut off the bolts.

 

[454ragtop]

As to switches, the 150 I have listed in the classifieds here came with a foot switch, doesn't seem like a bad idea.
Jim

 

[JZiggy]

FrankLee, what color of paint did you use for your motor rebuild? It looks great!

 

[FrankLee]

Paint: Rustoleum vs. Dupli-Color vs. OEM

I will check the model when I get back to the shop this weekend. There is a MM on the drill but it's very rusty. I might be able to salvage it but I'm not confident I can remove it without having to cut off the bolts.

There are things to try before cutting the bolts. Take lots of pictures and post them. There are plenty of us to help with ideas and suggestions.

FrankLee, what color of paint did you use for your motor rebuild? It looks great!

Thanks JZ! Rustoleum 7587838 Dark Machine Gray has been my go-to paint for refurbs, but I saw this Dupli-Color DA1612 Machinery Gray at O'Reilley's and decided to give it a try. The Dupli-Color is a just a tad darker than the Rustoleum, but still lighter than OEM. Had the Dupli-Color paint matched the color of the can cap, it would have been a very close match to the OEM gray.

The bearing cover and interior air cone baffle are oem gray. The end cap is painted with Dupli-Color, the vise is painted with Rustoleum. The Dulpi-Color can cap is much closer to oem, but not very close to the actual contents. That's usually the case for any spray paint.

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[Craptain]

As to switches, the 150 I have listed in the classifieds here came with a foot switch, doesn't seem like a bad idea.
Jim

My "Mohawk" dp has no switch, so I used my own Foot switch. I really prefer it to a regular switch as I have much better control and can much more readily switch on and off. Mine is momentary ie press and it's on, release and it's off.

 

[bmw57isetta]

Re: Custom Switches

Frank:

Did you polish that band by hand or with a buffer? If buffer, did you have to go back over the striped areas with anything or did they survive the buffing wheel as is? Finally, how did you refasten the data plate? I've tried to find that type of rivet and tool but with no luck.

Very nice results! I'd like to put the finishing touches on mine before it all goes back together.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: Motor Band

Frank:

Did you polish that band by hand or with a buffer? If buffer, did you have to go back over the striped areas with anything or did they survive the buffing wheel as is? Finally, how did you refasten the data plate? I've tried to find that type of rivet and tool but with no luck.

Very nice results! I'd like to put the finishing touches on mine before it all goes back together.

Thank you. I was fortunate that it wasn't too bad to begin with. It was all cleaned by hand. I started cleaning it with liquid Zud and a soft sponge. Zud contains oxalic acid which can aid in removing rust, but it didn't do much on this. I then soaked the band in vinegar for a couple hours which did the most good. I finished with Meguiar's cleaner wax which really made it shine.

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For reattaching the badge, I will use aluminum pop-rivets. I'm not crazy about how that looks, but I'm a cheap *******. I appreciate the original form, but I favor function. See the Craftsman Motor Overhaul thread link in the first post in this thread on how I accomplished that.

55555.16210

 

[bmw57isetta]

Thanks for the fast reply, Frank!

I've had a number of occasions over the years to find/use some of those original rivets. I know they're out there along with, I assume, is a special setting tool. Thought I'd ask. Just one of those details I'd like to know if the need arises.

Having restored a 150 floor stander several years ago your thread has been a real treasure trove to me and a lot of others. Thanks for sharing your experiences and information with us.

 

[bubinga]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Yeah, I put the Delta badge back on my circa 1965 band saw, with regular
Old pop rivets.
Not bad looking, not 100% like factory, but not bad.

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[FrankLee]

Spindle Pulley Removal Tool

7/4/2016

In an earlier post, I described how I remove stubborn spindle pulley assemblies using a wooden dowel and a small hammer.

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[nine4gmc]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

You should patent that! Awesome idea, bet you wish you would have thought about it 17 drill presses ago! [emoji38] [emoji481]

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

 

[FrankLee]

Grinder 115.7566, DP#20, DP#21

Awesome idea, bet you wish you would have thought about it 17 drill presses ago!

Thanks. Yes I do!



7/9/2016

My drought ended. I recently picked-up these gems at estate sales.

A Craftsman 7" x 3/4", 1/3 hp grinder, model 115.7566. It runs much better than it looks. I'm not sure of my plans for this one yet.

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7/15/2016

And another Craftsman 100 dp#20) an early bench model 103.23130.

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The Good: It has a decent table and it came with some nice options... a shaper adapter with a few cutters and a drill press shaper fence. Run-out is acceptable at .002-.003.

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The Bad: It has a broken chuck sleeve. I do have a spare chuck with the safety collar, though.

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The Ugly: Too many holes drilled into the head frame for some custom switches and a goofy soup-can light fixture integrated into the head frame.

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57535



7/17/2016

I just got home with dp#21, model 113.24560.

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58888.726



7/27/2016

The refurb of dp#20 is complete. Sold it on 7/29.

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[Outlawmws]

Nice finds Frank!

 

[bubinga]

can you tap some of the holes to say 1/2" X 20 TPI, and thread in a set screw, with a little red loc-tite on it, and JB weld over the set screw?
Then paint, of course.

 

[FrankLee]

My current drill press fleet

8/11/2016

Here are my current machines.

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[vertguy]

Frank... what would cause a spindle to be tight in the quill bearings on a 150? This is on a donor spindle/quill assembly I recently picked up (same vintage as my 150... mid-60's) and unlike my original one, the spindle will need to be tapped/forced out of the bearings. I don't think this is an issue as my plan for now is to just tap it out and do a couple measurement comparisons to determine what is causing it to be tight. Maybe the wrong bearings were installed?

 

[FrankLee]

This thread passed the 60000-views milestone today. Thanks for stopping in!

Frank... what would cause a spindle to be tight in the quill bearings on a 150? This is on a donor spindle/quill assembly I recently picked up (same vintage as my 150... mid-60's) and unlike my original one, the spindle will need to be tapped/forced out of the bearings. I don't think this is an issue as my plan for now is to just tap it out and do a couple measurement comparisons to determine what is causing it to be tight. Maybe the wrong bearings were installed?

I believe the bearings on 150's are pressed onto the spindle/quill. I have had several, but not all, spindles on 100's that easily slipped out of the quill/bearings after filing burrs from the spindle collar set screw.

Did you measure run-out? Are you sure the bearings need to be replaced? IIRC, I replaced only one set of spindle/quill bearings in the 21 DP's I've worked on.

Check-out post #93.

 

[vertguy]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

The runout is very minor, which is why I want to use this one as it is much better than the original. I just thought it was odd that the spindle is so tight in the bearings as both my 80 and 150 will drop right out once the top locking collar is removed.


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[Mbx0187]

Frank,
Do you have any suggestions on replacing the spindle pulley on these drill presses? I have one which is cracked, spun, and wobbly due to wear on the splines. The unit is 1 piece aluminum. Does not appear to be serviceable any longer.

 

[FrankLee]

Frank,
Do you have any suggestions on replacing the spindle pulley on these drill presses? I have one which is cracked, spun, and wobbly due to wear on the splines. The unit is 1 piece aluminum. Does not appear to be serviceable any longer.

I think your only options are to find a used pulley (eBay, GJ, etc), or find a donor machine. If you find a donor machine, you can part-out what you don't need and you will likely come out ahead.

 

[FrankLee]

8/3/2016

Here's my next project. It's not mine, but I'll be mechanically refurb'ing the head frame and checking out the motor on this Craftsman 100 dp#22.

This one was rode hard. Repainted twice, the spindle pulley and pinion gear shaft both have lots of free-play. The owner said there was some kind of nest behind the quill. It's a mess. This is how I received it.

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8/4/2016

I got the head frame torn down and found several interesting issues on this machine.


Spindle Pulley Assembly

The assembly came out easy enough, but has a few problems.

The smallest step of the pulley has a few undulations.

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The pulley was bumped by the spindle collar so much that the inner snap ring caused a very large burr on the spindle shaft. I had to use a file to cut down that burr in order to remove the pulley bearings.

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I got the bearings removed and discovered that the inner race of the lower bearing wore the pulley shaft. I'll use green Loctite on the lower bearing during re-assembly.

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The bearings turned very roughly and I could tell that they were very dry. I removed one shield from each and could see why the shaft got worn. I'll clean these and assess whether they can be reused.

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The outer snap ring is a different style that I've never seen before.

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Head Frame Trim

The head frame trim is also different than anything I've seen before. The imbrication lines are deep and very uniform. It appears that the pattern was pressed into the aluminum rather than engine-turned.

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Hub, Pinion, and Spring Assembly

Here's the reason there was so much horizontal play in the pinion shaft. The dog point on the pinion shaft retaining screw is badly worn. To re-use this bolt, during reassembling, I'll add to, or remove the fiber washer to turn the point 90 degrees when tightened.

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The spring has noticeable wear near the tang end.

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The feed handle knobs and rods were replaced. Heli-coils were needed to attach the knobs.

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The hub is no longer round and has a small crack near one of the rods.

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8/6/2016

The first cleaning with mineral spirits is complete. Brake cleaner and some wire-wheeling to go.

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8/7/2016

Final cleaning is complete and despite all the issues listed above, this drill press is going together nicely.

The hub, pinion, and spring assembly is complete.

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The spindle pulley assembly is complete. I cleaned the original bearings, but did not use them. I had another set of used bearings that were in much better shape. Those were cleaned and repacked. I'll apply some green Loctite to the inside of the inner race of lower bearing at the time of pulley installation. I'll also clean the pulley steps more once I get the dp running.

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8/8/2016

The quill assembly is back together. The chuck was torn down, cleaned and reassembled. New sealed bearings and new o-ring washers were installed. The chuck will get polished after I get the DP running.

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As I stated above, to re-use the pinion shaft retaining screw, I need to have the dog point turned 90 degrees from the original installation when the bolt is tight. To accomplish that, I made a new, slightly thicker washer from left-over shower floor pan liner. Perfect!

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8/9/2016

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8/10/2016

dp#22 is complete. Despite its looks and the issues listed above, this drill press runs nicely!

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[bubinga]

can you tap some of the holes to say 1/2" X 20 TPI, and thread in a set screw, with a little red loc-tite on it, and JB weld over the set screw?
Then paint, of course.

I guess no one liked My Idea,

 

[smalltown]

Frank is there any place that I can go to read what the differences are between the CM DP's 150, 100 or even the 80? I am quite surprised that you find so many drill presses.

 

[FrankLee]

Frank is there any place that I can go to read what the differences are between the CM DP's 150, 100 or even the 80? I am quite surprised that you find so many drill presses.

Most of what I learned was from hands-on experience and some was from looking for info from available catalogs.

Check this post for some Craftsman drill press changes over the years:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4325791&post4325791

Craftsman catalogs are available online.

All the drill presses I had came from craigslist, garage sales, and estate sales.

 

[smalltown]

Yes I just reread your post and if I had let it sink in I see that (correct me if I a wrong)there seems to be minor changes from the 100 to the 150. On the 100 I see possible tilt table, standard motor mount, external feed tension adjustment.

150: rapid feed stop, external feed tension adjustment on earlier then later have internal, hinged motor mount.

Thanks for quite a write up on the things you do to restore these beautiful drill presses.

 

[smalltown]

Frank I've asked this before on another post. Do you do anything to the holes that previous owners drilled in the head to mount electrical boxes for their on/off switches?

 

[FrankLee]

Craftsman Bench Grinder 115.7566 - Part 1

Frank I've asked this before on another post. Do you do anything to the holes that previous owners drilled in the head to mount electrical boxes for their on/off switches?

The vast majority of drill presses I've fixed-up had some form of custom switch or switch box attached to the side of the head frame. I don't do anything to repair those holes and it never bothered me or the guys that bought the DP's I refurbished. I refurbish these as users, not museum pieces; function over form.



7/9/2016

A Craftsman 7" x 3/4", 1/3 hp grinder, model 115.7566. It runs much better than it looks. I'm not sure of my plans for this one yet.

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8/28/2016

I decided to refurbish this grinder and got it disassembled today. No real difficulties... the hardest part was getting the nut off the arbor that holds the right wheel.

I need a left tool rest.

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9/1/2016

I decided to try electrolysis to clean-up the grinder parts. It works well, but there is still lots of manual cleaning.

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New bearings arrived on 9/3.



9/5/2016

All cast iron parts are cleaned and primed.

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9/9/2016

Top coats are complete.

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Stator is installed... new bearings are installed, a quick test under power and this one runs great!

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9/11/2016

Mostly reassembled.

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9/12/2016

Switchable Outlet

This model of grinder did not come equipped with a quench tray or a lamp. I don't care for those removable quench trays anyway, but I do want some kind of lamp. I have a couple vintage machine lamps, but do not want to permanently mount one to the grinder. So instead, I installed a snap-in, three-pronged outlet into the rear of the center band and wired it into the switch.

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I selected the location, drilled a pilot hole, and enlarged that to the proper size for the bolt of a 7/8" Greenlee hole punch.

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After the hole was punched, I clamped the original outlet mounting plate to the band and used it as a template to nibble out the required 15/16" square. Test fit is perfect!

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The center band is painted. The ON/OFF switch plate was redone with transfer letters, but I'm not happy with it. I have another plan.

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Eye Shields

The safety glass in these eye shields were held in with two rubber adhesive strips and metal tabs on the sides of the frame. When I removed the glass from the eye shield frames, I did not even try to save the tabs because they typically break anyway.

The glass is 1/2" longer and wider than the frame opening. Here's how I reinstalled the glass using 1/2" 3M Molding Tape and other supplies

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First, clean the glass with alcohol and lay a strip of tape 1/4" from the edge of each piece of glass. Then with a thin ruler between the pieces, tape the two pieces of glass together from the back side.

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Next, remove the ruler and apply a single piece of molding tape to both pieces of glass between the masking tape.

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Then, slit the molding tape lengthwise between the pieces of glass.

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Repeat for the other two edges of the glass.

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To install the safety glass into the frame, remove the adhesive backing and lay the glass in the frame up against the mounting brackets and centered side-to-side.

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I don't believe the 3M Molding Tape by itself would permanently hold the glass in place, so I applied a terpolymer adhesive on the side edges of the glass. Strips of masking tape on the glass make for a tidy bead of adhesive. Nice!

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[FrankLee]

Craftsman Bench Grinder 115.7566 - Part 2

9/21/2016

My Weiler 06655 wide 7" wire wheel arrived today and I just got it installed. I had to use 1/2"-5/8" bushings. Still waiting for my buffing wheel.

[ ​

10/4/2016

I finally finished the new tool rests for the grinder. Each is 2" long made from 3" x 3" x 3/16" angle iron. They are larger than the oem rests and work great. I shoulda painted them first. STILL waiting for my buffing wheel to arrive.

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10/7/2016

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[ricshaw]

Lubrication points.

I recently uploaded a YouTube video of my old Craftsman drill press I picked up last weekend. The bench drill press is a model #103.23620.

I am having trouble finding all 4 lubrication points.

3. "Lower the spindle and apply oil through the hole in the keyway on the left side of the quill No. 26120." is the one I can't find.

Pictures of the other lubrication points I found.

 

[FrankLee]

4/12/2021

Today, I made a new version of the pin spanner. This one is less clunky than the first. I had all the parts with may be recognizable.

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After watching a mrpete222 video on Removing Drill Press Chucks (skip to 3:33) I dug around a bit more and found this 1974 Jacobs catalog on the http://vintagemachinery.org/ website. Looking at the highlighted image on the front, I'm thinking that this could certainly be a Jacobs 633C chuck. (now replaced by the Jacobs 34-33C)

I have a lot of respect for Mr Pete, but I think he really missed the boat on his removal tool. It's way too complicated to make for most of us.

Below are a couple of pin spanners I made a few years ago using only a drill press with materials I had on hand. You may recognize repurposed Craftsman parts in the second photo. I did have to buy set screws with FULL dog points. The larger spanner has an 8mm set screw, the smaller has a 5/16-18 set screw. I've used them both many times on frequently stubborn chucks.

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9/7/2016

I picked up this Craftsman drill press for $50 last weekend. My goal is to clean it up, replace the cord and switch with the switch relocated on the motor. I want to replace the bearing(s) or fix whatever is causing the noise.
Thank you – thank you – thank you to FrankLee for your Craftsman Drill Press thread… what a wealth of information.
Everything I needed to know including why the drill press had a third middle step pulley.

The drill press is a model # 103.23620 and came with a drill vise. When I got home I called the guy back and asked him if he had the chuck key. He said no, it had been lost a long time ago, but he had forgot to give me the owner’s manual.

I am thinking this 103.23620 was sold in the late 1940s.

After seeing Frank’s posts on the replacing the bearings, I am not sure that I have the tools and expertise to do the job.

Comments and advice welcomed and a source for a chuck key.

YouTube Link:

Craftsman 103.23620 YouTube video

Hello ricshaw and welcome! Very nice find for $50!

You're very welcome. I'm always glad to know that others find this information useful.

I believe that model has one ball bearing, which is a thrust bearing, and several(?) bronze sleeve bearings. The thrust bearing is likely a Nice 605 with 5/8" bore, 1-1/8" OD, and ~5/16" wide and sits just above the chuck. The sleeve bearings are easy to R&R, but usually require reaming to size after installation. If possible, check run-out with a dial indicator, or lower the chuck, grab the chuck and see if there is any side-to-side movement. If there is any noticeable movement, the sleeve bearings should be replaced.

Lubrication points.
3. "Lower the spindle and apply oil through the hole in the keyway on the left side of the quill No. 26120." is the one I can't find.

It's been a while since I refurbished a Craftsman 80, but iirc, there is a slot on the outside of the quill for the quill lock/guide. There should be a hole near the top of that slot for oil.


I watched your video and I'm not sure where that noise is coming from. You can isolate the origin by removing the front belt to determine if it's the spindle. If not, remove the rear belt to see if it's the middle pulley or the motor.

I'm still not sure what model you have 12-1/4" or 13-1/2". What is the diameter of the column? What is the diameter of the quill?

What is the number on the chuck?

What is that gadget (circled) inside the head frame? A light perhaps?

 

[ricshaw]

If possible, check run-out with a dial indicator, or lower the chuck, grab the chuck and see if there is any side-to-side movement. If there is any noticeable movement, the sleeve bearings should be replaced.

Yes, there is some noticeable movement.


It's been a while since I refurbished a Craftsman 80, but iirc, there is a slot on the outside of the quill for the quill lock/guide. There should be a hole near the top of that slot for oil.

I think I found it.

I'm still not sure what model you have 12-1/4" or 13-1/2". What is the diameter of the column? What is the diameter of the quill?

See above.

What is the number on the chuck?

No. 33

What is that gadget (circled) inside the head frame? A light perhaps?

It is a belt tension pulley that is not touching the belt. It looks like if I lowered the front belt to the bottom of the front spindle pulley it would engage.

I have not had a chance to remove belts to try to isolate where the knocking noise is coming from, but this bothers me. The middle multi-speed pulley is touching the pulley support.