Warped5
Well-known member
You've already grabbed that one, right?
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Welcome Jim!
That is a Craftsman 100 made in '56-'58. I prefer the 100's over the 150's. It appears to have original paint and no missing parts. The table-top surface and the head frame engine-turned trim band appear to be in excellent condition. There does not appear to be any excessive rust.
A few things have me puzzled though... if it's a '56 or later model, it should have a rapid adjust feed stop, tapered lock handles, and all steel lock cylinders. Perhaps the head frame is older and repainted. It does appear to be a slightly different gold than the table.
Compare to this Craftsman 100;
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5982966&posted=1#post5982966
The middle pulley is home-made. I cannot tell if it has bearings, bushings or nothing.
Because it is gray, the motor is a little older. There is a date code (mm yy) on the motor information plate to the left of the model number. I can make out the month, 10, but not the year.
So, assuming that the spindle, quill and motor bearings are in good shape, and there are no broken, cracked, damaged, or severely worn parts, that is probably a $200-$250 machine in my area. YMMV.
After reconditioning, there is really very little maintenance. Wax the bare metal surfaces and lube a few of the moving parts.
I don't have one available at the moment, but if I did, Michigan is quite a drive from FL.
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Just bought a late model bench 150 with multispeed. Thank you for this great thread. Already got it cleaned up and running with the great information here.
couple questions:
Is there a version of the manual for the late models with internal feed return spring? I assume you pull out the hub and wind it up, but how much?
Also, is Sears still selling the correct feed return spring for the late model 150? Looks about right, but has anyone tried it?
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/38989/0009/113.html
Also, any good tricks to remove the multispeed from the column?
couple questions:
Is there a version of the manual for the late models with internal feed return spring? I assume you pull out the hub and wind it up, but how much?
Also, is Sears still selling the correct feed return spring for the late model 150? Looks about right, but has anyone tried it?
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/38989/0009/113.html
Also, any good tricks to remove the multispeed from the column?
Feed Return Spring
Feed Return Spring
Welcome!
Yes, there should be a manual at www.VintageMachinery.org. If you can't find your exact model number, there is one that is close. What is your model number?
You may have to adjust the spring several times before you get it just right. Tighten just enough so the quill returns without seeming too slow. It's difficult to explain, but you'll know when it's enough... or too much.
Please post some pictures!
Feed Return Spring
Welcome!
Yes, there should be a manual at www.VintageMachinery.org. If you can't find your exact model number, there is one that is close. What is your model number?
You may have to adjust the spring several times before you get it just right. Tighten just enough so the quill returns without seeming too slow. It's difficult to explain, but you'll know when it's enough... or too much.
Please post some pictures!
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Username already in use
Well-known member
Frank, I was directed to your thread by Outlaw, and all I can say is THANKS! You're a wealth of knowledge and your walkthrough on disassembly for the head assembly on my press was invaluable. I think it took me about 40 minutes to break it all down.
I bought this over the weekend. It's a model 103.23130 with a terrible blue paint job.
Here's how it started:
Like I said, your walkthrough helped to disassemble in no time.
The most difficult part was removing the machine screws that hold the pulley. I was able to get one completely out, but the other was being stubborn. I was able to loosen it enough to remove the pulley. Once the pulley was out, I could look in as see that the other screw was bent worse than the first and had some threads really buggered up. So, I screwed it back in, and was able to cut it off from the inside with a chisel. The rest came out without incident.
Only 1 casualty on a ~70 year old machine... not bad.
Thanks again, and I'm sure I'll be referring back to this thread on a regular basis!
I bought this over the weekend. It's a model 103.23130 with a terrible blue paint job.
Here's how it started:
Like I said, your walkthrough helped to disassemble in no time.
The most difficult part was removing the machine screws that hold the pulley. I was able to get one completely out, but the other was being stubborn. I was able to loosen it enough to remove the pulley. Once the pulley was out, I could look in as see that the other screw was bent worse than the first and had some threads really buggered up. So, I screwed it back in, and was able to cut it off from the inside with a chisel. The rest came out without incident.
Only 1 casualty on a ~70 year old machine... not bad.
Thanks again, and I'm sure I'll be referring back to this thread on a regular basis!
Attachments
"Before" pictures of my "new" 150 (left). More pix later. Model number is 103.24501
The allen bolt seems to be missing from the multispeed attachment, but it is jammed into the post pretty tight. Thinking about knocking it out from the inside of the post with a pipe?
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Frank, I was directed to your thread by Outlaw, and all I can say is THANKS! You're a wealth of knowledge and your walkthrough on disassembly for the head assembly on my press was invaluable. I think it took me about 40 minutes to break it all down.
I bought this over the weekend. It's a model 103.23130 with a terrible blue paint job.
Here's how it started:
Like I said, your walkthrough helped to disassemble in no time.
The most difficult part was removing the machine screws that hold the pulley. I was able to get one completely out, but the other was being stubborn. I was able to loosen it enough to remove the pulley. Once the pulley was out, I could look in as see that the other screw was bent worse than the first and had some threads really buggered up. So, I screwed it back in, and was able to cut it off from the inside with a chisel. The rest came out without incident.
Only 1 casualty on a ~70 year old machine... not bad.
Thanks again, and I'm sure I'll be referring back to this thread on a regular basis!
You're very welcome and thanks! Thanks to Outlaw too. It's gratifying to know my efforts are assisting others.
You are correct... those screws are probably the most difficult part of disassembly, especially on the older machines. The screws on your's appear to be slotted hex-head with washers. Originals would have been round head, no washers. It's interesting to see what previous owners do to these machines.
In an earlier post, I replaced those screws with hex-socket cap screws. I no longer do that because those cap screws are hardened. It would be very difficult to remove them if the threads get buggered up. The softer standard screws are the best option here. They can be drilled out, snapped, or chiseled like you did. Are your screws the original size? 8-32? I've had those drilled larger in the past.
What are your plans? Stripping? ...chemical? electrolysis? media blast?
What color are you going with?
What parts are missing or need replacing?
Any desire to convert to a floor-standing unit? I can help.
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That's weird. If you're absolutely sure the lock screw is missing, check for other non-factory fasteners... i.e. set-screw through the column. Use a wrench on the flats of the pulley shaft and gently turn. If the base moves with the shaft, then yes, punch the assembly out from the other end... preferably with a piece of wood. A 2x2 would be ideal.
One end of the column was machined inside specifically for the installation of the MSA. I suspect that the previous owner installed the column upside-down and jammed the assembly into the too-small end. That happened on my dp#1 and luckily the MSA was not damaged.
I have seen plenty "uniquely engineered" solutions by previous owners that had me shaking my head.
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bubinga
Well-known member
Username in use, I do like that blue color though.
Looks period correct.
Looks period correct.
bubinga
Well-known member
Yeah, I'd spray it down good over night, give it a few taps from the top to
The allen bolt seems to be missing from the multi-speed attachment, but it is jammed into the post pretty tight. Thinking about knocking it out from the inside of the post with a pipe?
get the PB Blaster or such worked in, and get you pipe in from the bottom like you suggested.
That should do it!
If stubborn, maybe a little heat on it.
even propane or Mapp would help.
bubinga
Well-known member
Yeah, Best try that first. Good Point, Frank has done lots of these,
If it happened before, he's run into it.
Still possible it's rusted in there though i would think.
andylew
Member
Re: Dp #2
Hey Frank, would that depth stop bracket fit on an early 100? If so, I'd be more than willing to take it off your hands.
Here are pictures of the donor 150 machine, model 103.24531 with the crown logo on the head band. It was originally gold. I didn't get a picture of the column, but it is probably 8" shorter than my dp above.
So, what spare parts should I keep? What parts do I sell?
Hey Frank, would that depth stop bracket fit on an early 100? If so, I'd be more than willing to take it off your hands.
Username already in use
Well-known member
-Current plan is electrolysis for easy/labor free paint/rust removal. I have a large tank already set up.
-Color... that's the tough question, right? I was thinking O.D. Green.
-As far as I know, I'm missing one handle, and another handle is broken and welded back together. So, 2 handles would be nice. Also, the correct pully for the motor. This came with a giant 1.5hp Baldor motor and a dual pulley, but both are the same size. Oh, and the trim piece for the top of the machine is gone.
-I might be interested in converting it to a floor-standing unit if the price is right. Is that just the post, or the base and post?
Here's a pic of the motor that came on it.
-Current plan is electrolysis for easy/labor free paint/rust removal. I have a large tank already set up.
-Color... that's the tough question, right? I was thinking O.D. Green.
-As far as I know, I'm missing one handle, and another handle is broken and welded back together. So, 2 handles would be nice. Also, the correct pully for the motor. This came with a giant 1.5hp Baldor motor and a dual pulley, but both are the same size. Oh, and the trim piece for the top of the machine is gone.
-I might be interested in converting it to a floor-standing unit if the price is right. Is that just the post, or the base and post?
Here's a pic of the motor that came on it.
Parts should not be too hard to find on ebay if you're patient.
The floor standing base is much bigger than the bench model. I have a 62" and a 67" column. PM sent.
I also noticed that your quill lock cylinder is still in the head frame, painted in, and there was only one head frame cylinder in the tray. Get those others out yet?
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Good day everyone. New member short time follower. Forgive me if I am posting in the wrong area but this seems to be the only active late model craftsman DP thread still active. I just become the owner of a Craftsman 103.0305 DP and I plan on doing a full restoration. So far what I need is the pulley housing cover. Does anyone know where I can find one or have one to sell? I am sure there will be more parts needed. But at this point this is what I know I need for sure till I get the press in my hands.
Attachments
Craptain
Well-known member
This is a good place to post. That looks like a "Mohawk" dp. Made for just a couple of years in early 40's. I have one and love it. As for the cover you will just have to be patient. Check out ebay, CL etc looking for a parts machine. Or if it is a user rather than a restoration project just make something. It is a relatively lightweight guard and can be damaged easily.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Thank you Captain for the help. I was hoping to restore and be a user. From the video my buddy sent me it purrs like kitten. Just needs some TLC.. I've been reading every single post by you all and it's some serious amount of information that's for sure.. love the fact your all so willing to share knowledge.. hopefully I won't have any issues. The other thing I noticed missing is on the left side of the DP there is a opening that looks like there should be something there and looking at other in comparison it is a circular knob maybe about 1" in diameter. What is it for? See picture attached.
I tried posting on the classifieds for parts but can't untill I reach the magic number 100 post. But will continue to watch eBay and CL. Thanks again sir
Attachments
Outlawmws
Well-known member
That would be where the Quill retractor assembly goes. If you are lucky one from the later King Sealy DP's will fit? Otherwise a tough part to find unless someone parts out a fairly rare mohawk..
Those were introduced while WWII was raging in Europe, and stopped when the US entered the war... Short run...
Those were introduced while WWII was raging in Europe, and stopped when the US entered the war... Short run...
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
That's what I thought it was. Thank you for the confirmation. What year King Sealy DP do you think might fit and with this missing would you consider this DP non operational for use?
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That's what I thought it was. Thank you for the confirmation. What year King Sealy DP do you think might fit and with this missing would you consider this DP non operational for use?
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
That quill return spring design more closely resembles an Atlas spring (like below) than the later King-Seeley machines. That Craftsman model uses a flat, clock-spring style. The King-Seeleys use a 4" coiled torsion spring.
Honestly, if that were mine, missing the cover and spring it would be a part-out machine.
That quill return spring design more closely resembles an Atlas spring (like below) than the later King-Seeley machines. That Craftsman model uses a flat, clock-spring style. The King-Seeleys use a 4" coiled torsion spring.
Honestly, if that were mine, missing the cover and spring it would be a part-out machine.
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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Dang really!!? Why would that be if you don't mind me asking? I am new to all this so please forgive me.
Dang really!!? Why would that be if you don't mind me asking? I am new to all this so please forgive me.
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
[IMO]
The return spring is a very important component. That model is very uncommon. IF the spring assembly is unique to that model, it could take a long time to find one. The cover is not functionally required, but completes the machine. The cover IS unique to that model and could also take a long time to find.
Also, less common = more money
[/IMO]
[IMO]
The return spring is a very important component. That model is very uncommon. IF the spring assembly is unique to that model, it could take a long time to find one. The cover is not functionally required, but completes the machine. The cover IS unique to that model and could also take a long time to find.
Also, less common = more money
[/IMO]
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
I may have a line on a parts machine. Just have to dig through some older listings. Was going to possibly split it between two, but depending on what parts he needs, you and I need different stuff. May end up splitting 3 ways.
I can take a pic of the spring cover. Never taken it off, as mine has always worked well.
I can take a pic of the spring cover. Never taken it off, as mine has always worked well.
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Oh man! That would be awesome Cruzan80! You'd be a life saver and I'd have to send you a case of beer or drink of choice. I'll be Standing by
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Oh man! That would be awesome Cruzan80! You'd be a life saver and I'd have to send you a case of beer or drink of choice. I'll be Standing by
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
bubinga
Well-known member
Can't something be adapted?
I'd bet money I could get something to work.
I'd bet money I could get something to work.
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Talking to another guy on another forum said he used a an old brigs and Stratton engine spring. Said it wasn't the best and studdered. But was eventually replaced by an Atlas return spring assembly just like Franklee said might fit. Now what model Atlas I don't know unless they all were the same. Don't know the specs for either one that well or at all.. this is my first vintage craftsman DP
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Talking to another guy on another forum said he used a an old brigs and Stratton engine spring. Said it wasn't the best and studdered. But was eventually replaced by an Atlas return spring assembly just like Franklee said might fit. Now what model Atlas I don't know unless they all were the same. Don't know the specs for either one that well or at all.. this is my first vintage craftsman DP
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
The picture of the return spring is supposedly for a 103.0305. which is what I have. it was a picture I found from an old eBay listing. Just wanted to make sure that it truly was. Like you said hard to find an original. But was confirmed in another forum that an Atlas will work in mine like you had mentioned. Just need to figure out what Atlas it is that fits.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
It certainly appears to be about right. The key will be the diameter of the hole in the head, the mating collar on the "knob", The spring thickness vs the slot width, and the number and diameter of the catch pins, (2 or 3?)
Slip on the spring; wind it up, and hook the knob on the catch pins.
Show your buddy the knob pic an see if that is floating around where the DP is...
Is that all? Hahahah. Oh man I've got so much to lean..Lol. but that's the fun part about it right. I sent him the picture and he said he will look. It's going to be about a week before I get my hands on it. Has to be shipped from CA to SC. Once I get it I'll share pictures if you all don't mind and maybe help through the process of getting back to it former glory. You all have know idea how much I appreciate you all responding and putting up with my newbie question. Plus all the massive amounts of Information you all have put on here over the years. Just amazing..
Outlawmws
Well-known member
nd: Here is another post or two on your model DP second half of the linked post and at least the second post:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2340326&postcount=48
Page 3, Post 48 in the thread...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146523&page=3
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2340326&postcount=48
Page 3, Post 48 in the thread...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146523&page=3
Cruzan80
Well-known member
So it is a no-go on the parts machine. The listing expired, and I don't have the contact info. Will certainly keep an eye out for another one, the more people interested, the easier it will be to part it all out.
Username already in use
Well-known member
Seems you don't miss much. I think you may have seen this movie before...
Another 10 minutes tonight and I had everything apart. Everything came apart easily despite the heavy handed coat of blue paint. I'll start trying to make it look good now.
One thing I noticed when I had it all apart was that just one tooth on the pinion gear seemed to have excessive wear. Just one. Have you noticed that on any others?
Attachments
Seems you don't miss much. I think you may have seen this movie before...
Another 10 minutes tonight and I had everything apart. Everything came apart easily despite the heavy handed coat of blue paint. I'll start trying to make it look good now.
One thing I noticed when I had it all apart was that just one tooth on the pinion gear seemed to have excessive wear. Just one. Have you noticed that on any others?
Yes, unfortunately I have seen that before and was not as lucky (or maybe as patient) as you.
That is a very common issue with the pinion gears. That will occur when the pinion gear tooth hits the quill cylinder when it reaches the end of the tooth rack on either the top OR the bottom of the quill. Your picture shows the tooth that hits the bottom of the quill. Look for another tooth with the same (maybe smaller) wear spot on the opposite corner on the fifth tooth clockwise from the one in your picture.
<------ bottom------------------------------------------top ------>
On early machines, the tooth hitting the bottom of the quill may be another effect caused by the feed stop bracket sliding down the quill after many feed cycles. I can see that was the case on your quill and bracket.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4880745&post4880745
I haven't noticed any operational problems with this issue.
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Username already in use
Well-known member
Yeah, I guess you have seen this before.
Just as you said. 5 teeth over. This one shows significantly less wear. Good to know that it shouldn't effect the operation of the press.
