Craftsman Drill Press

[CrotalusAtrox]

I sold off a couple vintage Craftsman motors thinking I needed space in the garage of course I pick up a really clean Craftsman 150 with a non original motor. It has a great Baldor reversible motor on it but I am sure some people will only want it if it has an original motor, such is life. I cleaned it up replaced the motor bearings and replaced all the wiring got the switch working so it can operate either direction.

 

[pstemari]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

That's a gorgeous job. Any purist who discounts the Baldor motor really doesn't deserve to have the machine.

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[FrankLee]

I sold off a couple vintage Craftsman motors thinking I needed space in the garage of course I pick up a really clean Craftsman 150 with a non original motor. It has a great Baldor reversible motor on it but I am sure some people will only want it if it has an original motor, such is life. I cleaned it up replaced the motor bearings and replaced all the wiring got the switch working so it can operate either direction.

That is a beauty!

 

[FrankLee]

Damn, glad you finally got it out.

Me too! I probably spent 10-12 hours on that sob.

​

Now that it's out, I started cleaning it. The first step was a little bit of wire wheeling of the worst rusty part that was in the base. Then some scrubbing with mineral spirits and a coarse Scotch-Brite pad. The bench column is from dp#34 after the same clean up. Much more to do on both.

​

 

[Rushton]

My Model 150 (103.25411) is all cleaned up and back together. Only challenge now is that there is more runout than I'd like to see - I'm reading about 10-thousandths runout on the shanks of a couple of different bits mounted in the chuck. Suggestions for where to start tracking this down?

For the table lock, I used JZiggy's mod of inserting a spring between the lock cylinders and grinding flat the ends of the spring. Works beautifully; great tip!


(JZiggy's photo from FrankLee's post.)

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

My Model 150 (103.25411) is all cleaned up and back together. Only challenge now is that there is more runout than I'd like to see - I'm reading about 10-thousandths runout on the shanks of a couple of different bits mounted in the chuck. Suggestions for where to start tracking this down?

For the table lock, I used JZiggy's mod of inserting a spring between the lock cylinders and grinding flat the ends of the spring. Works beautifully; great tip!


(JZiggy's photo from FrankLee's post.)

I would inspect the chuck and maybe change the bearings, use a trued piece of round stock when taking your measurements. Drill bits especially Chinese ones can be of a few thousand out to start.

 

[FrankLee]

My Model 150 (103.25411) is all cleaned up and back together. Only challenge now is that there is more runout than I'd like to see - I'm reading about 10-thousandths runout on the shanks of a couple of different bits mounted in the chuck. Suggestions for where to start tracking this down?

That is another great looking machine!

Regarding runout... did you have the chuck removed?
Either way:

• mark the body of the chuck and the threaded thrust collar on the spindle with a sharpie or similar
• remove the chuck and measure runout from the taper
• check chuck jaws for wear
• if the taper runout is acceptable, check the taper for any burrs, nicks, etc and address those
• make sure the male and female tapers are extremely clean and reinstall the chuck
• measure runout
• if still not acceptable, remove chuck and reinstall every 90 degrees until better

 

[Rushton]

I would inspect the chuck and maybe change the bearings, use a trued piece of round stock when taking your measurements. Drill bits especially Chinese ones can be of a few thousand out to start.

Thanks, Crotalus. Good point about the drill bits; I'm relying on some '60s vintage Craftsman bits for round stock so hopefully they're a bit better.

That is another great looking machine!

Regarding runout... did you have the chuck removed?
Either way:

• mark the body of the chuck and the threaded thrust collar on the spindle with a sharpie or similar
• remove the chuck and measure runout from the taper
• check chuck jaws for wear
• if the taper runout is acceptable, check the taper for any burrs, nicks, etc and address those
• make sure the male and female tapers are extremely clean and reinstall the chuck
• measure runout
• if still not acceptable, remove chuck and reinstall every 90 degrees until better

Outstanding list, Frank! Thanks - this is just what I need to start sorting through this in an orderly fashion.

By the way, I used your technique for aligning the three pulleys (straight edge across all three) and it worked well. My biggest challenge was holding the head and then trying to move it just a fraction at a time while freeing up a hand to re-tighten the column lock. I ended up putting on a column clamp just beneath the head and driving a slim wood wedge between the column clamp and the bottom of the head. With the wedge, I could very gradually drive the head up the post, just a smidge at a time, until it was the right height to align the center slo-speed pulley to the front spindle pulley.

 

[FrankLee]

By the way, I used your technique for aligning the three pulleys (straight edge across all three) and it worked well. My biggest challenge was holding the head and then trying to move it just a fraction at a time while freeing up a hand to re-tighten the column lock. I ended up putting on a column clamp just beneath the head and driving a slim wood wedge between the column clamp and the bottom of the head. With the wedge, I could very gradually drive the head up the post, just a smidge at a time, until it was the right height to align the center slo-speed pulley to the front spindle pulley.

Thanks for the shim tip! That would make minute adjustments much easier.




I dismantled dp#35 today... well, 90% anyway. I've only had two in this style. The first, dp#6, was the smaller version. Now I remember why I dislike the Atlas machines so much. I still don't know the model number yet.

This particular machine had been repainted twice; both times without disassembling. Ugh. The head frame and table locks are still stuck. I'll need to torch them a little to loosen the paint and knock them out. The quill assembly also needs to be disassembled.

​

The previous owner also replaced the oiler with a zerk fitting. I'll remove that and replace it with a plug.

​

The bearing cavity was packed with grease which had little effect on the shielded bearings.

​

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

Always enjoy seeing your restorations. I am getting better at fixing and restoring vintage tools but not good at documenting the process like you do .

 

[FrankLee]

I'm done with dp#35 at the moment, so back to dp#34...

I reassembled the head frame today using several parts from dp#33.

​

I also dismantled, cleaned and reassembled the motor. The bearings were loud and bone dry, but still good. I just cleaned and repacked them. The motor band clean up nicely; the badge, not so much. It runs like new, though!

​

Always enjoy seeing your restorations. I am getting better at fixing and restoring vintage tools but not good at documenting the process like you do .

Thank you, CA

 

[454ragtop]

Another one of these found me, even has the speed reducer 3rd pulley. Did a little cleaning and tuning on it, works good, but the motor is pretty noisy. Thinking I'm going o have to replace the bearings before I could sell it. Anyone already pulled one of these motors apart and know what bearings are required? I'd like to have them on hand before I pull it apart.
TIA, Jim

 

[FrankLee]

Another one of these found me, even has the speed reducer 3rd pulley. Did a little cleaning and tuning on it, works good, but the motor is pretty noisy. Thinking I'm going o have to replace the bearings before I could sell it. Anyone already pulled one of these motors apart and know what bearings are required? I'd like to have them on hand before I pull it apart.
TIA, Jim

It depends on the model. If it's an older cast-iron motor, try removing the bearing cover and add a few drops of oil into the bearing on each end.

EDIT:
Older motors had only one shield on the inboard side of each bearing. The outboard sides were open. Your motor likely has double shielded bearings. The outboard shield can be removed with the bearing in situ with a small, sharp punch. Check here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6112216&post6112216

Check this thread for a very similar motor to your's:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314803



If you have to replace, here's a list of replacement bearings from the vm wiki page:
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/ReplacementBearingListCraftsman.ashx

 

[454ragtop]

Thank you Frank, didn't even know that list existed. Pretty sure these will need to be replaced, sound pretty ugly. One more pic after I cleaned it up a little.

 

[Rushton]

That is another great looking machine!

Regarding runout... did you have the chuck removed?
Either way:

• mark the body of the chuck and the threaded thrust collar on the spindle with a sharpie or similar
• remove the chuck and measure runout from the taper
• check chuck jaws for wear
• if the taper runout is acceptable, check the taper for any burrs, nicks, etc and address those
• make sure the male and female tapers are extremely clean and reinstall the chuck
• measure runout
• if still not acceptable, remove chuck and reinstall every 90 degrees until better

Frank, an update from following your steps above... Success! Runout from the taper itself was just three thousandths total, so acceptable. Cleaning the mating surfaces of the male and female tapers, then checking for runout in multiple different chuck positions (your final bullet) finally discovered a position where runout was just three thousandths total as measured on the round stock I used in the chuck.

Surprisingly, I found this position on about the 7th remove/reinstall/measure iteration and it was less than 10 degrees away from a position with significantly greater runout.

To minimize the variables, I kept my round stock mounted in the chuck throughout these different remove/reinstall/measure iterations, figuring that mounting and removing the round stock in the chuck simply created another variable. Once I found the sweet spot location, I did try unmounting and remounting the round stock to check variability of the chuck, and the differences I found were negligible. I can certainly live with this amount of runout for the work I'm likely to do!

Many thanks for all of your help getting this model 150 cleaned up and back into service.

 

[FrankLee]

Frank, an update from following your steps above... Success! Runout from the taper itself was just three thousandths total, so acceptable. Cleaning the mating surfaces of the male and female tapers, then checking for runout in multiple different chuck positions (your final bullet) finally discovered a position where runout was just three thousandths total as measured on the round stock I used in the chuck.

Surprisingly, I found this position on about the 7th remove/reinstall/measure iteration and it was less than 10 degrees away from a position with significantly greater runout.

To minimize the variables, I kept my round stock mounted in the chuck throughout these different remove/reinstall/measure iterations, figuring that mounting and removing the round stock in the chuck simply created another variable. Once I found the sweet spot location, I did try unmounting and remounting the round stock to check variability of the chuck, and the differences I found were negligible. I can certainly live with this amount of runout for the work I'm likely to do!

Many thanks for all of your help getting this model 150 cleaned up and back into service.

Congrats! I'm glad you got it tuned in. I was happy to help!

 

[FrankLee]

This morning, I picked up this pedestal base for a wood lathe. The price was right! It will also make an awesome double grinder stand; either side-by-side, or back-to-back. I believe the casting number on the mount is identical to the standard grinder pedestal mount, 38222.

​

 

[CKS1955]

I would have never thought to use the lathe stand as a double grinder stand. Very cool. I don't know why they had a wood table attached to that stand (it looked off).

Jay

 

[FrankLee]

The 1970 Sears Craftsman Power and Hand Tools catalog was recently (8/20/2017) submitted to that vintage machines website publication library and solved another mystery for me.

Production of the 15½" drill press on the left ended in 1969. I'm still not sure when it began; 1967 or 1968. The new third generation Emerson design on the right was first offered in the 1970 catalog and was the first with the skinny 3/16" belt and 8-step pulleys.

​

I still would like to see catalogs from 1958, 1962, 1965 and 1967.

 

[Cyansarunt]

Yikes...not one of their more elegant designs that's for sure.

I love your double grinder stand that is a brilliant repurposing of the lathe stand

 

[Smokeshow69]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I figured I would post my Dp instead of just commenting on everyone else's [emoji1] I was able to finally get my 103.24531 with original paint up and running! I bought the press from aneuman for a very low sum and with some elbow grease was able to clean, lube and install some of Franklee's rubber o-rings and get this beauty back up and running ! It did not come with a motor but I was able to find a nearly mint one on Craigslist thanks to an alert from rileysan ! All told I am only into the Dp for a little over $100! I was able to get a lot of the rust stains off the paint by soaking it in wd-40 and then rubbing the stains with a brass brush! It is not perfect but I thought it was too nice to repaint and I really like the patina in this one! I cleaned up the column and polished all chrome surfaces! The craftsmanship and attention to aesthetics in these machines really shows! It is definitely one of my most prized machines in the garage!








I am wondering if my motor angle is correct ? Also the instructions for the motor say to wire it for a switch so if someone has an extra cman motor switch to fit the larger diameter motor plug hole I would be interested! I do have 2 other drill pressed that will be getting full restorations, both bench top versions but one has a broken varislow assembly so if someone has a varislow control head/knob I would be interested! Thanks Franklee for this great resource thread! I could not/ would not have dared tried to tackle these machines without you great thread!


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[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Yikes...not one of their more elegant designs that's for sure.

I agree completely! I picked up four of those '68-'69 models for the parts and part-out. Many of those parts fit the earlier classic styles.

I love your double grinder stand that is a brilliant repurposing of the lathe stand

Yeah, it works great! I really like my repurposed drill press grinder stands tho, so I'll be flipping the lathe pedestal.

I figured I would post my Dp instead of just commenting on everyone else's [emoji1] I was able to finally get my 103.24531 with original paint up and running! I bought the press from aneuman for a very low sum and with some elbow grease was able to clean, lube and install some of Franklee's rubber o-rings and get this beauty back up and running ! It did not come with a motor but I was able to find a nearly mint one on Craigslist thanks to an alert from rileysan ! All told I am only into the Dp for a little over $100! I was able to get a lot of the rust stains off the paint by soaking it in wd-40 and then rubbing the stains with a brass brush! It is not perfect but I thought it was too nice to repaint and I really like the patina in this one! I cleaned up the column and polished all chrome surfaces! The craftsmanship and attention to aesthetics in these machines really shows! It is definitely one of my most prized machines in the garage!

I dunno... it looks perfect to me! Nice work!

I am wondering if my motor angle is correct ? Also the instructions for the motor say to wire it for a switch so if someone has an extra cman motor switch to fit the larger diameter motor plug hole I would be interested! I do have 2 other drill pressed that will be getting full restorations, both bench top versions but one has a broken varislow assembly so if someone has a varislow control head/knob I would be interested! Thanks Franklee for this great resource thread! I could not/ would not have dared tried to tackle these machines without you great thread!

Yes, the motor does look slightly cocked and the belt seems very long. IIRC, the owners manual calls for a 44" belt for the 150. It may be just appear that way due to how the belt and pulleys are set up.

It also looks like the motor mount plate prevents you from mounting the motor any lower. That won't allow you to line up the pulleys to use the slowest speed. Depending on the model of the motor, you MAY be able to flip the motor over and reverse rotation. That MAY work, I'm not sure.

The profile and diameter of the motor pulley does not match the spindle pulley. That won't be a problem unless switching belt positions often.

You're probably already aware that the feed stop collar should be above the casting slot on the head frame.

I appreciate the feedback, thanks!

 

[A E Numan]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I figured I would post my Dp instead of just commenting on everyone else's [emoji1] I was able to finally get my 103.24531 with original paint up and running! I bought the press from aneuman for a very low sum and with some elbow grease was able to clean, lube and install some of Franklee's rubber o-rings and get this beauty back up and running ! It did not come with a motor but I was able to find a nearly mint one on Craigslist thanks to an alert from rileysan ! All told I am only into the Dp for a little over $100! I was able to get a lot of the rust stains off the paint by soaking it in wd-40 and then rubbing the stains with a brass brush! It is not perfect but I thought it was too nice to repaint and I really like the patina in this one! I cleaned up the column and polished all chrome surfaces! The craftsmanship and attention to aesthetics in these machines really shows! It is definitely one of my most prized machines in the garage!








I am wondering if my motor angle is correct ? Also the instructions for the motor say to wire it for a switch so if someone has an extra cman motor switch to fit the larger diameter motor plug hole I would be interested! I do have 2 other drill pressed that will be getting full restorations, both bench top versions but one has a broken varislow assembly so if someone has a varislow control head/knob I would be interested! Thanks Franklee for this great resource thread! I could not/ would not have dared tried to tackle these machines without you great thread!


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Smokeshow69
I,m glad to see that you have it ready to use again! Good job.

 

[Smokeshow69]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I agree completely! I picked up four of those '68-'69 models for the parts and part-out. Many of those parts fit the earlier classic styles.




Yeah, it works great! I really like my repurposed drill press grinder stands tho, so I'll be flipping the lathe pedestal.





I dunno... it looks perfect to me! Nice work!





Yes, the motor does look slightly cocked and the belt seems very long. IIRC, the owners manual calls for a 44" belt for the 150. It may be just appear that way due to how the belt and pulleys are set up.

It also looks like the motor mount plate prevents you from mounting the motor any lower. That won't allow you to line up the pulleys to use the slowest speed. Depending on the model of the motor, you MAY be able to flip the motor over and reverse rotation. That MAY work, I'm not sure.

The profile and diameter of the motor pulley does not match the spindle pulley. That won't be a problem unless switching belt positions often.

You're probably already aware that the feed stop collar should be above the casting slot on the head frame.

I appreciate the feedback, thanks!

Thanks for the heads up on the feed depth adjuster [emoji1] can't believe I put it on wrong but that is an easy fix !

In regards to the motor, the motor plate is adjustable but I think the motor is supposed to have a slight angle on it to put some tension on it ? If it is supposed to be perfectly aligned, please let me know! I am looking for a correct pulley so if someone has one please let me know!

Speaking of varislows there is an assembly listed on eBay right now! I am saving my pennies otherwise I would think about it! Here is a picture and item number!
222623502550






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[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

In regards to the motor, the motor plate is adjustable but I think the motor is supposed to have a slight angle on it to put some tension on it ? If it is supposed to be perfectly aligned, please let me know! I am looking for a correct pulley so if someone has one please let me know!

Ideally, everything should be squared up; the motor shaft to the belt, the belt to the spindle. The pulleys should be installed accordingly. With the spindle and motor pulleys perfectly aligned with each other, the belt will be pulling evenly on the bottom and top of the pulley step. Incorrect alignment will cause premature pulley and belt wear.

The weight of the motor provides adequate tension on the belt. There should be a stud on the motor mount and should just touch the head frame with everything in place and square.

Also, with this style of motor mount, motor bouncing may occur, especially with an old stiff belt. This is why I prefer cogged belts.

​

 

[Rushton]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I figured I would post my Dp instead of just commenting on everyone else's [emoji1] I was able to finally get my 103.24531 with original paint up and running! ...

Looks really good, Smokeshow! I love it when the original paint job can be retained. It helps tell the story of these machines we put back into service.

 

[Smokeshow69]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Looks really good, Smokeshow! I love it when the original paint job can be retained. It helps tell the story of these machines we put back into service.

I agree ! If the original paint is presentable , it stays !

Franklee, I am missing that stud but can find one and should get the motor squared up !


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[FrankLee]

PVC Soaking Chamber for Columns

I continued cleaning the floor standing column that will go with dp #34. It was originally a bench model.

Here's where it started after a long process to extract it from the base.

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Here's where it was after an initial scrub-down with mineral spirits and a Scotch-Brite.

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Here's where it is today after two cycles of vinegar bath, three hours total, with a scrubbing in between and after.

​

 

[trijeff]

I used 3" pvc pipe for a soaking chamber and a #13 solid rubber stopper in the top end of the column. There was about 1/8" clearance around the column inside the pvc, but it worked very well. It used only about one quart of vinegar.

Brilliant.

 

[CKS1955]

What he said ^^^.

Jay

 

[Outlawmws]

I had to read what you did 3 times to get it! I kept thinking the column was open! :tard:

 

[Rushton]

I continued cleaning the floor standing column that will go with dp #34... Here's where it is today after two cycles of vinegar bath, three hours total, with a scrubbing in between and after...

FrankLee, have you ever used citric acid instead of vinegar for de-rusting small parts? I've read that it works well on the rust and is less aggressive than vinegar for preserving the remaining steel. I've got some citric powder waiting for a next project, but have not yet tried it for a comparison.

 

[FrankLee]

I had to read what you did 3 times to get it! I kept thinking the column was open! :tard:

It does sound odd when I re-read it. I should have added that the top of the column with the stopper was inserted into the pipe first and is upside-down.

FrankLee, have you ever used citric acid instead of vinegar for de-rusting small parts? I've read that it works well on the rust and is less aggressive than vinegar for preserving the remaining steel. I've got some citric powder waiting for a next project, but have not yet tried it for a comparison.

I've never tried ca. There are many posts on GJ about removing rust and can't recall any mention of it. I use vinegar because it is so cheap and easy to find. I've used Evapo-Rust, and it works great, but it's too expensive.

I'm intrigued, so please post back your results after you try it.

 

[Outlawmws]

CA is very popular with the Coleman crowd for de-rusting steel parts of old lanterns and stoves. More so that vinegar or Evaporust.

I haven't tried it myself; I keep meaning to...

 

[Rushton]

CA is very popular with the Coleman crowd for de-rusting steel parts of old lanterns and stoves. More so that vinegar or Evaporust...

Makes sense given the reports I've seen of it being more gentle on the non-rusted metal parts while still effective eliminating the rust. I got it to work on some handtools and will report back when I get to working on them.

 

[ururk]

Just got a Craftsman drill press (and table saw) from my uncle as he doesn't use it much anymore. He bought it new in the 50's, and wanted it to go to someone in the family who would appreciate/use it.



Long term I'd like to rehab it, but for the moment it works. I did have a few questions though - I looked through this thread but even with the index in the first post not too sure where to start.

1) What should I do about the rust on the table? I'm thinking sandpaper glued to a sheet of glass, but I don't want to screw up the original paint.

2) How do I identify which model (100, 150) it is?

 

[Cruzan80]

Picture didn't come thru. 100's have a swirly headband, 150's have a Crowntop logo on the front. Easiest way I get rid of most rust is with a razor-blade, followed by some fine steel wool and lubricant.

 

[ururk]

Picture didn't come thru. 100's have a swirly headband, 150's have a Crowntop logo on the front. Easiest way I get rid of most rust is with a razor-blade, followed by some fine steel wool and lubricant.

Fixed - I added it as an attachment, it worked, but then broke - so I put it on Flickr.

Based on what you wrote, it must be a 100. And, looking over Google images, confirms it is a 100.

 

[rrich1]

Fixed - I added it as an attachment, it worked, but then broke - so I put it on Flickr.

Based on what you wrote, it must be a 100. And, looking over Google images, confirms it is a 100.

you can use a scraper or even a random orbit sander to speed things up. it wont hurt the bed at all.

 

[FrankLee]

Cleaning Bare Metal Surfaces

Just got a Craftsman drill press (and table saw) from my uncle as he doesn't use it much anymore. He bought it new in the 50's, and wanted it to go to someone in the family who would appreciate/use it.

Long term I'd like to rehab it, but for the moment it works. I did have a few questions though - I looked through this thread but even with the index in the first post not too sure where to start.

1) What should I do about the rust on the table? I'm thinking sandpaper glued to a sheet of glass, but I don't want to screw up the original paint.

2) How do I identify which model (100, 150) it is?

That's a beautiful machine! I like the family history too.


Like Cruzan said, it's a 100. Here's a link to help identify other classic Craftsman drill presses.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6500642&post6500642




Cleaning Bare Metal Surfaces


On the painted surfaces of all the cast iron pieces, I'll scrub with mineral spirits and a green Scotch Brite pad.

On the very first rusty table I cleaned, I used Bar Keeper's Friend. It worked well, but still left a dull finish on the bare steel.




Since then, I've used a finishing sander with 180-240 grit paper. It does a great job quickly. It does not damage the table.

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I used the sander even on the very best table I found with execellent results.

​

The sander also works well on stubborn areas when cleaning columns.