Table saws, planers, jointers.
Drill presses and bandsaws are the main ones that use 1750.
Table saws, planers, jointers.
Drill presses and bandsaws are the main ones that use 1750.
Table saws, planers, jointers.
Drill presses and bandsaws are the main ones that use 1750.
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X 2
Yeah, that is a nice motor. Not a half bad price for A NOS motor either, and not a great demand.I sure wish that Craftsman motor would have been around last year. One of my table saw ((Craftsman)) puked the motor out last year and I ended up buy a new motor from Grizzly. Spent too much for it but this saw was my dads and I HAD to put it back running. The bigger saw stays in the basement and this one's in the garage. Mike.
You got a really good deal if this is true. Most rewind shops won't touch the small motors because it costs far less just to buy a new one.I had a craftsman table saw motor die a few years ago. I located a local business that rebuilds the motors. Seems to me I paid ~$100.
I looked all around here to find somebody that WOULD re-build it and the only place did that stuff close went out of business 6 months before this happened. Day late and a dollar short! Mike.
This bearing solution worked great. I recently bought a 1955 model 80 and it had a spun spindle pulley bearing. I used the link you gave us for the supplier and everything worked as planned.Frank I sourced these bearings from VXB.com.. the part # is SB205-25 mm bore. The specs of the bearing are 27mm wide inner race.. 15 mm wide bearing and upper race..52 mm outside bearing diameter .. with a 25 mm bore.. I actually measured the bore to be 24.7 mm.. it is designed to fit a 25mm shaft.. it was a snug tight fit sliddding on the pulley .. I’ve seen many cheap bearings in my life.. though I’m not that familiar with VBX they listed the specs of the bearing and had it in stock.. I paid about $10 delivered.. others who are selling this spec bearing their prices were upwards of $40-60 before delivery.. I’m very happy with the bearing that arrived ..it is machined well.. solid and heavy with no adverse movements noted before installing it.. I’d buy from then again .. I’m also confident that accurate bearing would have them.. but they don’t have a website for ordering without calling them..
This bearing solution worked great. I recently bought a 1955 model 80 and it had a spun spindle pulley bearing. I used the link you gave us for the supplier and everything worked as planned.
Thanks again for the terrific info.
Leo
Does anyone know if this is a craftsman accessory that would have been available on one of these drill presses???? I may have a chance to buy it.
Does anyone know if this is a craftsman accessory that would have been available on one of these drill presses???? I may have a chance to buy it.
Scored a 150 a while back on Craigslist.I don't see many in my area but found one advertised for $100 and jumped on it. Doing my best to document the restore but got a little eager to start. lol. I spent enough time in this thread to get me interested in wanting one and then after I found one I have spent hours in here. Absolutely love this thread and am blown away by most of the resto's I have seen.
two questions (for now):
It is probably in this thread but I don't know the term to search for. The rubber piece shown near the motor shaft - What is it called and will I be able to find a replacement?
Thank you~
Scored a 150 a while back on Craigslist.I don't see many in my area but found one advertised for $100 and jumped on it. Doing my best to document the restore but got a little eager to start. lol. I spent enough time in this thread to get me interested in wanting one and then after I found one I have spent hours in here. Absolutely love this thread and am blown away by most of the resto's I have seen.
two questions (for now):
It is probably in this thread but I don't know the term to search for. The rubber piece shown near the motor shaft - What is it called and will I be able to find a replacement?
Thank you~
resilient ring
Many thanks. The search is on. Intended use will be largely relatively light...wood boring, light aluminum track installation, etc; heaviest currently anticipated will be ~1/2-inch holes in 1/4-inch steel-plate caster mounts for self-constructed gantry.
Just found a NOS motor that looks like it will work; now a pulley.
First, I found a replacement pully. The NOS motor turned out to be a dc motor. I ultimately popped for a 1/2 hp 3-phase NOS Lincoln that fits and should be more than satisfactory [3-ph is already in the shop]. The question I now have is what to use for a switch. I am thinking that the ability to reverse the motor would be nice, and am looking for as simple a control as is possible. Any suggestions?
Frank,
I went ahead and picked up that vise table. It was really a fluke that it even worked out. I emailed the seller to see if he would ship it to me and he was willing to come half way to a town where a coworker lives. My friend picked it up after work yesterday. I got it for $35.00.
Your comment pushed me over the fence. I am glad I took your advice! This thing is a beast! It weighs in at 40lbs and is built like an absolute tank. I can tell its got some age to it and may even be close to my 100dp. If anyone knows what kind of handle I should get for this please let me know. I don't have a lot of experience with machinist style vises.
Thanks again
A Furnas type F/R drum switch should work well. New ones are pricey, but there are used ones on ebay.
Scored a 150 a while back on Craigslist.I don't see many in my area but found one advertised for $100 and jumped on it. Doing my best to document the restore but got a little eager to start. lol. I spent enough time in this thread to get me interested in wanting one and then after I found one I have spent hours in here. Absolutely love this thread and am blown away by most of the resto's I have seen.
two questions (for now):
It is probably in this thread but I don't know the term to search for. The rubber piece shown near the motor shaft - What is it called and will I be able to find a replacement?
Thank you~
resilient ring
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4or 5 come up for dayton motors, (quick google search) may be able to adapt something.Welcome to the Craftsman dp club!
Yes, your motor is a resilient or cradle mount motor. I've never looked really hard, but I've never found an exact replacement for those Craftsman/Emerson rubber resilient mount rings. If they are not completely destroyed, you may try to reuse them by flipping them and rotate them 180 degrees.
Yesterday, I received and installed a set of stainless steel feed handle rods fabricated by oldironowner.
His fabrication skills are amazing! These rods fit perfectly and look great!
If anyone is interested in stainless quill handles I machined, I am looking for $50 + shipping for a set of three. Available in 3/8-16 and 1/2-13 threads. Thanks!
First, I found a replacement pully. The NOS motor turned out to be a dc motor. I ultimately popped for a 1/2 hp 3-phase NOS Lincoln that fits and should be more than satisfactory [3-ph is already in the shop]. The question I now have is what to use for a switch. I am thinking that the ability to reverse the motor would be nice, and am looking for as simple a control as is possible. Any suggestions?
4or 5 come up for dayton motors, (quick google search) may be able to adapt something.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...I68bkAhUFNKwKHYCmAbMQBQgvKAA&biw=1152&bih=527

MW, is the vise drive hex or square? if square I've bet a mill vise handle would fit. These generally had a crank handle so not hard to make.
I once made one from some flat bar, two short pieces of angle (to make the square socket) a big bolt for the handle and a piece of pipe for the "spinner" on the handle!
If hex you could also just bend a wrench the requisite size, or bend up a breaker into a crank - lots of options...
Does anybody know if they made motor condoms for the Craftsman motors like they had for Delta motors. This one is off a delta but the hole spacing is a little off and it could be about a 1/4" longer. Were these made by the motor mfg's or the machine mfg's? I was hoping to keep my 150 pretty original if possible.
Thanks,
Wes
two questions (for now):
It is probably in this thread but I don't know the term to search for. The rubber piece shown near the motor shaft - What is it called and will I be able to find a replacement?
Thank you~
If you have to have reverse you will need a drum switch. If not, Allen-Bradley Style push button switches have a very nice feel. Unless you intend to power tap, use left hand drills, or instant stop, I don't know if reverse will really be all that handy. I put a drum switch on my big drill press for tapping, but I'm not sure if these little ones are very ideal for that. Most run too fast for medium sized taps, and I don't like to power tap with tiny taps.
I picked up a new 1.5 hp-2 hp Electric Motor Reversing Drum Switch, 1 & 3 Phase, Position=Maintained. Wired into and out of the switch and into the motor. Motor is a 9-wire, so I wired it for low voltage...1-7, 2-8, 3-9, 4-5-6. When I started the motor, it hummed and ran very slowly w/o load. Starting and stopping [w/o reverse position] resulted in the motor running in opposite directions.
Whassup?
Have not checked continuities on the new motor yet; had to retrieve the clamp meter from home. I'll check the line leads as well and try to verify wiring into the line socket. Motor is new, so hopefully need for a meg-ohm meter is not an item.
Frank,
I went ahead and picked up that vise table. It was really a fluke that it even worked out. I emailed the seller to see if he would ship it to me and he was willing to come half way to a town where a coworker lives. My friend picked it up after work yesterday. I got it for $35.00.
Your comment pushed me over the fence. I am glad I took your advice! This thing is a beast! It weighs in at 40lbs and is built like an absolute tank. I can tell its got some age to it and may even be close to my 100dp. If anyone knows what kind of handle I should get for this please let me know. I don't have a lot of experience with machinist style vises.
Thanks again
I picked up a new 1.5 hp-2 hp Electric Motor Reversing Drum Switch, 1 & 3 Phase, Position=Maintained. Wired into and out of the switch and into the motor. Motor is a 9-wire, so I wired it for low voltage...1-7, 2-8, 3-9, 4-5-6. When I started the motor, it hummed and ran very slowly w/o load. Starting and stopping [w/o reverse position] resulted in the motor running in opposite directions.
Whassup?
Have not checked continuities on the new motor yet; had to retrieve the clamp meter from home. I'll check the line leads as well and try to verify wiring into the line socket. Motor is new, so hopefully need for a meg-ohm meter is not an item.
Your wiring looks correct for low voltage wye. I'm pretty sure most motors I've dealt with were in the delta configuration of 1-7-6, 2-8-5, 3-9-5.