Craftsman Drill Press

[Blastereod]

Thanks FL. I am looking forward to this project. The information you have provided is fantastic, thanks.

 

[MarkDePonzi]

The spring looks somewhat recessed into the pinion to me. I'm thinking the first step should be to remove and dismantle the hub/pinion/spring assembly. Inspect the spring for any deformity.

The prongs on the knob look ok to me.

Thanks Frank for the reply.
Any directions to remove and dismantle the hub/pinion/spring assembly?

I took a couple more pictures that have better clarity of the knob and the spring. So You might detect any problems .

The spring sets flush with the outer gear. Is the spring supposed to stick out further ???

I took a pair of needle nose pliers and turned the spring counter clockwise and the Quill came right up. Like I said with the knob it slips out.

Also bought the cleaner You recommend so cant wait to clean this baby up. Thanks again.

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks Frank for the reply.
Any directions to remove and dismantle the hub/pinion/spring assembly?

I took a couple more pictures that have better clarity of the knob and the spring. So You might detect any problems .

The spring sets flush with the outer gear. Is the spring supposed to stick out further ???

I took a pair of needle nose pliers and turned the spring counter clockwise and the Quill came right up. Like I said with the knob it slips out.

Also bought the cleaner You recommend so cant wait to clean this baby up. Thanks again.

The prongs do have some wear, but should still be long enough to hold the spring.

There is a link in the first post of this thread called "Hub/Pinion/Spring/Feed Handle Assemblies" that has dismantling instructions.

If your machine is still fully assembled, lock the quill and remove the bolt under the pinion shaft on the right side. Next, slide out the hub assembly.
Then follow the directions in the link.

 

[MarkDePonzi]

The prongs do have some wear, but should still be long enough to hold the spring.

There is a link in the first post of this thread called "Hub/Pinion/Spring/Feed Handle Assemblies" that has dismantling instructions.

If your machine is still fully assembled, lock the quill and remove the bolt under the pinion shaft on the right side. Next, slide out the hub assembly.
Then follow the directions in the link.

Thanks Frank I will check it out now

 

[MarkDePonzi]

I ended up taking it apart . I didn't really want to drive the pin out thats right next to the handle . The more I looked at it I thought if I was able to bend the end of the spring out a bit it would fit into the 2 prongs better. The end of the spring was bent (in) the opposite direction and was not fitting in between the prongs. So I gave it a shot and It worked. Thanks again Frank Lee Your awesome !

 

[FrankLee]

I ended up taking it apart . I didn't really want to drive the pin out thats right next to the handle . The more I looked at it I thought if I was able to bend the end of the spring out a bit it would fit into the 2 prongs better. The end of the spring was bent (in) the opposite direction and was not fitting in between the prongs. So I gave it a shot and It worked. Thanks again Frank Lee Your awesome !

That’s not exactly the problem I was expecting, but I’m glad you got it figured out.

Thanks for posting the follow up. I’ve never seen that issue before. Your post is precisely what I was referring to earlier regarding participating and contributing!

 

[GreyEyes]

They look factory to me.... I am trying to remember what my later 150 model had for handles.

They look custom made to me. Looks like someone welded a handle to the original bolt from a cast style handle and then filled in around the base of the knob. They did a top notch job of blending everything in.

 

[Smokeshow69]

They look custom made to me. Looks like someone welded a handle to the original bolt from a cast style handle and then filled in around the base of the knob. They did a top notch job of blending everything in.

Quite possible. I haven’t spent the time to look over the catalog pages for this year but you can still see the grooves in the handles where the set screw would be tightened into it. I think I will leave them! They are part of the machines history and are very well done!


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[FrankLee]

Picked up the 150 today, it's in really great shape, just dirty. The paint is actually virtually pristine. Aside from some rust clean-up, there's not much to do.

The table and base plate are in great condition as well.


Model # 103.24531.
Motor name plate says January 1961. Even the motor paint is in great shape as you can see.

Really nice guy I got it from, we spent a half hour just shooting the breeze. Total cost for the unit was $75.00, so I think I did pretty good.

He says it's just been sitting in his garage unused for the last 15 years, and he needed the space. This is going to be a great addition to my shop.

Excellent! I think you did pretty good too!

 

[Smokeshow69]

Excellent! I think you did pretty good too!

Quite agreed! Nice work on the pickup!


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[GreyEyes]

Your motor does not have a start capacitor, just a start winding. The clicking is the centrifugal switch the connects and disconnects the start winding. You should hear it just before the motor comes to a full stop. Since it sat for a long time not being used it just may be a bit sticky and may free itself up after a bit of use.

 

[FrankLee]

One question I have for those with experience on these machines.

I am used to hearing the "click" of the capacitor as the motor winds down to near stop, but this is a little bit of a different situation.

The motor starts just fine, runs up to speed, and I don't see any issues with start and run.

On a stop, the motor winds down pretty quickly, but I don't hear the click of the capacitor until a half a minute AFTER the motor has come to a complete stop.

Is this normal? If not, any pointers on what to look at for trouble shooting?

Your motor does not have a start capacitor, just a start winding. The clicking is the centrifugal switch the connects and disconnects the start winding. You should hear it just before the motor comes to a full stop. Since it sat for a long time not being used it just may be a bit sticky and may free itself up after a bit of use.

Agreed... not normal.

I recently got a motor that had one spring missing from the cent switch. I didn't pay attention to the motor shutdown at the seller's place and by the time I got the motor home, the insulation on the cord was crumbling and too unsafe to plug in. A missing spring could also cause the click delay.

Check the centrifugal switch post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7740222

 

[FrankLee]

Does anybody know if they made motor condoms for the Craftsman motors like they had for Delta motors. This one is off a delta but the hole spacing is a little off and it could be about a 1/4" longer. Were these made by the motor mfg's or the machine mfg's? I was hoping to keep my 150 pretty original if possible.
Thanks,
Wes

I've never seen one on a Craftsman motor until the next style following the cast iron motors. Then they were plastic and not very good imo.


Early versions were a twist-on design. They often bent the tabs on the motor or shredded the plastic lip on the shaft guard.

​

Later versions were held on with a plate and screw.

​

I recently discovered this Motor Shaft Safety Cover #19672 in the 1960-61 Craftsman Power Tools catalog. I never realized this Craftsman version existed. Then yesterday, I saw one on a table saw motor on one of the free classified listing sites.

11/25/2019

Today, I found a motor with the cover.

​

11/26/2019

GOOD GET Frank!
Are those motor condoms metal or plastic with a metal mounting base?
Wes

The guards are all metal.

The cylinder started as a long strip, folded in half lengthwise and formed. It is secured to the base with three dimples. The base has two mounting holes and two larger holes to clear two bearing cover screw heads.

​

11/26/2019

I installed the guard on my Craftsman 100 motor.

​

 

[FrankLee]

Phil, did the previous owner offer any explanation as to how that home-made accessory was used?

 

[GreyEyes]

It looks like it has 3 pretty big sets screws holding it in place so it certainly wasn't going to move. Strange stepped cut on the sides of the flat bar also.

 

[itsDROCK]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hi guys, I’m interested in buying a craftsman drill press. This particular one is $75. They said it works. Looks like there is a table underneath the wooden piece. Is the work light an aftermarket piece? What do you guys think about the price? It’s been for sale for a while I could prob talk them down. Thanks.



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[Craptain]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I would say it's a fair price and worth going for it. My phone is not showing any scary details, and the wooden table implies that it was used solely, or at least primarily for woodwork. This in turn suggests that it was not overworked. However it also appears to be not maintained very well. Definitely worth buying subject to the usual checks.

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[DaveT]

Here are a few more pictures of the drill press and the band saw for $170.00
The drill press works well . No run out at all.
It does need some type of spring to bring the chuck back up when not pushing down.
I need to learn allot about this 2 machines any add vice for both of these machines would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to clean them up and have them in perfect working order maybe even repaint and bring back to original condition.
Hopefully I can get parts and information from this site.
Thanks for all Your help.

Mark I hope you understand this is a compliment “You ****!” Wow what a great find. You have some very nice and desirable items there. The Retirement Light on the Bandsaw and the Varislow on the Drill Press are some sought after items. Congrats!!

 

[GreyEyes]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hi guys, I’m interested in buying a craftsman drill press. This particular one is $75. They said it works. Looks like there is a table underneath the wooden piece. Is the work light an aftermarket piece? What do you guys think about the price? It’s been for sale for a while I could prob talk them down. Thanks.

It looks like the paint is in great condition, just covered in dirt. It might just be the camera angle, but to me the column looks shorter than normal.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hi guys, I’m interested in buying a craftsman drill press. This particular one is $75. They said it works. Looks like there is a table underneath the wooden piece. Is the work light an aftermarket piece? What do you guys think about the price? It’s been for sale for a while I could prob talk them down. Thanks.

Ditto on the previous comments. It looks like lots of silver/white over-spray. If you can get that off, the original paint will be very nice!

The lamp is a bonus. It looks like a grinder style lamp.

 

[bubinga]

These seem to be pretty popular, with some folks asking outrageous prices (whether they get it or not is another matter).
Checking the sold listings on ebay supports the idea that at least some people are willing to pay quite a large sum for these items.
I'm new to this as well, and I'm just glad I was able to find a decent one at a decent price.

IDK but I have a light just like it,(Came With My D/P) True, It looks like An OEM grinder light,
But it may have been an option with the D/P's or avaible from the catalogs separately?

 

[tate316]

Good thread!

 

[FrankLee]

dp#74, dp#75

Good thread!

Thanks! Glad you stopped in.




11/25/2019

It's been a very busy and productive day... and lots of driving!

This morning, I picked up this machine bundle in Canton, Mi. A Craftsman combo kit with a 103.22161 table saw and a 103.21820 jointer. The motor has the optional motor shaft safety cover as described above. I've never seen one before.

DP#74 is a Delta 11-120. For the price, I couldn't leave it behind. The quill and spindle are both frozen, so it'll take a bit of work before I can flip it.

​

Then this afternoon, I picked up dp#75 in New Baltimore, Mi. It's a Craftsman 100, model 103.23131, circa '54-'56. It has a Montgomery Ward motor with a fused switch accessory. It is very oily/grimy, so the paint is in excellent condition. The taper pin is the only missing part.

​

11/26/2019

It seems like most machines have some wtf issue and dp#75 is no exception.

When inspecting this machine, I found that the head frame was not correctly installed on the column. The head frame casting was cocked on the column and the rear plateau was actually resting on the top edge of the column. This could not have been good for accuracy when drilling.

In addition, the head frame lock cylinder was protruding too far out from the head frame. That told me the bevel of the cylinder was not contacting the column. When I dismantled, I found that the cylinder was indeed 90 degrees off from correct. The corner of the cylinder was locked against the column.

​

 

[cclfn]

Re: dp#74, dp#75

GOOD GET Frank!
Are those motor condoms metal or plastic with a metal mounting base?
Wes

 

[FrankLee]

Re: dp#74, dp#75

GOOD GET Frank!
Are those motor condoms metal or plastic with a metal mounting base?
Wes

The guards are all metal.

The cylinder started as a long strip, bent in half width-wise and formed. It is secured to the base with three dimples. The base has two mounting holes and two larger holes to clear two bearing cover screw heads.

​

11/26/2019

I installed the guard on my Craftsman 100 motor.

​

 

[itsDROCK]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Thanks for the input on the drill press I posted about yesterday. I picked her up today for $45. I dusted off the cobwebs and this is what she looks like. She has one bent handle and the light is shot but overall looks good to me. 1/3 HP Dunlap motor. Now the work begins!


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[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Thanks for the input on the drill press I posted about yesterday. I picked her up today for $45. I dusted off the cobwebs and this is what she looks like. She has one bent handle and the light is shot but overall looks good to me. 1/3 HP Dunlap motor. Now the work begins!

Very nice score for that price!

The table surface looks really nice. The chrome looks good too. Bent handles are very common on early 100's. They can be straightened if not too bad. What are your plans?

 

[Smokeshow69]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Thanks for the input on the drill press I posted about yesterday. I picked her up today for $45. I dusted off the cobwebs and this is what she looks like. She has one bent handle and the light is shot but overall looks good to me. 1/3 HP Dunlap motor. Now the work begins!


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If you got that for $45 then you ****! Looks very original. You can get replacement handles on eBay if needed


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[itsDROCK]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Very nice score for that price!

The table surface looks really nice. The chrome looks good too. Bent handles are very common on early 100's. They can be straightened if not too bad. What are your plans?

The goal is to take her apart, clean, lube, and put her back together. I already disassembled her out of excitement. Now I need to study this thread and figure out what I'm doing. This is my first attempt at rehabbing an old power tool. I had a ball bearing fall out when I removed the spindle. At this point I'm not planning a full blown restoration but I do want to remove the rust and get the spray paint off the original paint. I'll rewire the work light too.

If you got that for $45 then you ****! Looks very original. You can get replacement handles on eBay if needed


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Woohoo I got a You ****! lol. The guy was given the drill press a couple years ago and never used it. Looking back, I know I could have got it for even less but I'm very happy with the purchase.

 

[jeffmoss26]

we have a nice old Craftsman in the basement of the hardware store. Will try to remember and get a pic.

 

[GreyEyes]

Sure enough I was able to find a replacement K3C key for 7 and a half bucks online within minutes. These are also available on Amazon, Grainger and the big box stores for a little more money and a little longer wait.

My local Lowes usually has them in stock: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jacobs-Chuck-Jacobs-1-2-In-Chuck-Key/1209717

 

[FrankLee]

The 1961 150 I bought recently did not have a chuck key. No worries, I know these are available, so I initially went in and tried to find a replacement key through “searspartsdirect dot com” and through “ereplacementparts dot com” using the original Craftsman part number 18129, which was of course unsuccessful. I also tried the replacement part number assigned by Craftsman for the 18129 part number, which is 442-033, also with no success.

Then I remembered that there was talk in this thread on a chuck key chart. I did a search in this thread and found where Frank had posted the link to the chuck key chart.



Sure enough I was able to find a replacement K3C key for 7 and a half bucks online within minutes. These are also available on Amazon, Grainger and the big box stores for a little more money and a little longer wait.

To that end, just a reminder to newbies here – there is a ton of information here, even a rudimentary search will come up with tons of great info.

I do note that the links on the pdf in the website provided by Frank are dead and bring you to a 404 error page, but the number is good and you can look it up manually there.
Dead links are often a sign that a web page may go away, so to assist in case that happens I’m putting in the website link that goes to the non-pdf file web page: https://www.zoro.com/guides-jacob-chuck-key

I also have uploaded a picture of the pdf document, as it shows location and examples of the Jacobs chuck identification information. Right click and “save as”

Very good info. Thanks.

I have had links in this thread go bad too. If any are found, please let me know (except for those old expired craigslist referrals).

 

[RHJO51]

Hey Folks, I stumbled onto another cman drill press. I wasn't looking for anything but there it was on clist - $80. It's dirty and needs a good cleaning but all there and not a mark on the table. It's a model 103.24501. Might even be the motor that was originally put on it. When I got it home I was thinking what kind of cluster-F switch did this guy put on it? Then I recalled I saw something like it in one of the old Sears catalogs and sure enough, there it was in the one I checked - 1957. It's too funky and cool not to keep on it. Thought you Guys might get a kick out of it. - Jim

I've posted here a few time with the before, but I always forget the after. Here's this one. I've moved away from restore and paint to just clean and leave the patina. Has a neat label on the handle hub that I've never seen before. Check out the old Welch Cam-Loc Drill Press clamp, works well!

 

[FrankLee]

I've posted here a few time with the before, but I always forget the after. Here's this one. I've moved away from restore and paint to just clean and leave the patina. Has a neat label on the handle hub that I've never seen before. Check out the old Welch Cam-Loc Drill Press clamp, works well!

Now that is one beautiful machine! Thanks for posting.

 

[paulm12]

I've posted here a few time with the before, but I always forget the after. Here's this one. I've moved away from restore and paint to just clean and leave the patina. Has a neat label on the handle hub that I've never seen before. Check out the old Welch Cam-Loc Drill Press clamp, works well!

great cleanup job. What color is that?

 

[bubinga]

I've posted here a few time with the before, but I always forget the after. Here's this one. I've moved away from restore and paint to just clean and leave the patina. Has a neat label on the handle hub that I've never seen before. Check out the old Welch Cam-Loc Drill Press clamp, works well!

Now that is one beautiful machine! Thanks for posting.

great cleanup job. What color is that?

Yeah, WOW, That looks almost brand new!

 

[RHJO51]

Thanks guys! It’s the original paint. I did some scrubbing on it with a degreaser and then a light coat of BLO over the paint. I’m a big BLO fan. Runs real quiet and smooth.

 

[Smokeshow69]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Picked up 4 motor mount bolts for my upcoming freshening of my 13.5” model I picked up recently. The bolts where $10 shipped off eBay and I want the originals as the rest of the machine is nice.



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[IdahoMan]

Yeah, WOW, That looks almost brand new!

Absolutely.

 

[IdahoMan]

Thanks guys! It’s the original paint. I did some scrubbing on it with a degreaser and then a light coat of BLO over the paint. I’m a big BLO fan. Runs real quiet and smooth.

That's all you did? Like others have said it looks brand new. No rust or anything?

Awesome.