Outlawmws
Well-known member
You will want to replace the 3450 with a slower motor. That will double all the speeds the VM data shows. That motor is for a Table saw or some other high speed tool. Not a good choice for a DP.
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Wigz1981
Active member
Thats what i assumed. Odd they had the slow speed pulley with that motor. Seems counter intuitive. Appreciate it.
pikapp
Well-known member
Re: Custom Drill Press Lamp
Good development on the internal lamp idea FrankLee, simple, solid, compact and highly directional with good intensity. Perfect. How did your route the wiring on your final assembly?
BTW, mmw68 I forgot to add a "you ****" to my previous post on your 1948. Its required when someone scores one for a modest price and $50 bucks for a clean machine, in that condition, with an MSA and a tilt table is dirt cheap!
Congrats again.
Good development on the internal lamp idea FrankLee, simple, solid, compact and highly directional with good intensity. Perfect. How did your route the wiring on your final assembly?
BTW, mmw68 I forgot to add a "you ****" to my previous post on your 1948. Its required when someone scores one for a modest price and $50 bucks for a clean machine, in that condition, with an MSA and a tilt table is dirt cheap!
Congrats again.
Re: Custom Drill Press Lamp
I have a 6-1/2', 12 outlet power strip attached to the I-beam in my basement. I have a master paddle switch attached to the I-beam support pole (using the same strut and clamp system as the lamp). The power strip is plugged into a piggy-back plug from the master switch. All my machines in proximity are plugged into it. So my cords go up. When I'm not in the basement, the master switch is off.
The lamp cord is routed under the left motor mount rod and up to the power strip. When the master switch is on, the lamp is on.
In the mock-up, you can see the cord routed between the clamp and the column. During final installation, I wanted to ensure the cord would not get pinched between the strut and column, so I routed the cord inside the strut to the left behind the end of the clamp inside the strut.
I have a 6-1/2', 12 outlet power strip attached to the I-beam in my basement. I have a master paddle switch attached to the I-beam support pole (using the same strut and clamp system as the lamp). The power strip is plugged into a piggy-back plug from the master switch. All my machines in proximity are plugged into it. So my cords go up. When I'm not in the basement, the master switch is off.
The lamp cord is routed under the left motor mount rod and up to the power strip. When the master switch is on, the lamp is on.
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T.K.B.
Member
Re: Custom Drill Press Lamp
I like it.
I am ordering parts today.
Custom Drill Press Lamp
12/25/2020
I've always liked my magnetic-base led lamp on my drill press, but it does have it's drawbacks. Recently, there have been a few members post some really nice custom lamp projects, so I decided to give it a go.
I don't weld and I don't care to permanently modify these machines. I had several criteria for my design.
- it has to be simple
- it has to be inexpensive
- it has to be easy to r&r with out a trace
- for the most part, I have to use materials I have on hand
Here's what I came up with. I did buy a swivel lamp fitting, but I did have everything else.
Parts list:
- 4" piece of strut
I made a couple prototypes using 1-5/8" and 13/16" strut. I ended up using the 1-5/8" strut because I wanted the swivel mounted on the bottom.- 2½" pipe hanger for strut
I used a shorter bolt than was supplied and a couple washers between the clamp halves.
These pipe hangers are available in several sizes which could work for the 2-1/4" and 1-7/8" columns.
An exhaust clamp would be a good inexpensive substitute for the strut and pipe hanger.- lamp socket
Because of the way my power is set-up for my machines, I used a lamp socket with no switch. Any switchable lamp socket will work, but an in-line cord switch may be required.- swivel lamp fitting
There are other options for this such as a bracket that can be bent in the desired position.- 1" lamp ******
Longer ******* can also work.- nuts and washers
- lamp cord
There are a couple different gauges of lamp cord. I used the thinner version and always tie a UL knot.- PAR16 led bulb
It's a waste to have light bouncing around inside the head frame, so when I install this on my real machine, I will slide the assembly down so some of the bulb is extended somewhat below the head frame casting. I'll post an update when that's done.
634195
12/26/2020
The new lamp is installed on my keeper machine. I like it!
I like it.
I am ordering parts today.
dp#96
The model information tag is missing, but I believe it's a 103.0305. It's rough and missing only a few bits.
When I first saw the sellers photos, I could tell that there was something up with the spindle/chuck. There was too much spindle visible. I've got it apart already and discovered that a previous owner removed the thrust collar and reinstalled it upside down. That may be a challenge.
12/28/2020
Ok, I removed the upper spindle collar and slid off the quill with bearings. I had to rig up spacers using a couple short pieces of angle iron, but the Jacobs wedges did the job and popped off the chuck. After I got it off, I wire-wheeled it a bit and discovered that it's a Supreme 5T chuck. I suspect that it was a little different than the oe Jacobs chuck and may explain why the thrust collar was reversed.
The pin for the thrust collar came out easy enough and the collar slid right off.
12/30/2020
Well, I got the spindle apart and cleaned. I reinstalled the thrust collar correctly and loosely slipped on the chuck. The chuck fit correctly, so I have no idea what the po's motive was by reversing the collar.
Many other parts were cleaned.
Here's another first. The dog point of the pinion retaining screw appears to have been partially sheered off.
Well, not only was this machine still for sale since a week ago, but the price was lowered to $75. I couldn't stop myself, went to take a look and brought home DP#96 for $65.
The model information tag is missing, but I believe it's a 103.0305. It's rough and missing only a few bits.
When I first saw the sellers photos, I could tell that there was something up with the spindle/chuck. There was too much spindle visible. I've got it apart already and discovered that a previous owner removed the thrust collar and reinstalled it upside down. That may be a challenge.
12/28/2020
Ok, I removed the upper spindle collar and slid off the quill with bearings. I had to rig up spacers using a couple short pieces of angle iron, but the Jacobs wedges did the job and popped off the chuck. After I got it off, I wire-wheeled it a bit and discovered that it's a Supreme 5T chuck. I suspect that it was a little different than the oe Jacobs chuck and may explain why the thrust collar was reversed.
The pin for the thrust collar came out easy enough and the collar slid right off.
12/30/2020
Well, I got the spindle apart and cleaned. I reinstalled the thrust collar correctly and loosely slipped on the chuck. The chuck fit correctly, so I have no idea what the po's motive was by reversing the collar.
Many other parts were cleaned.
Here's another first. The dog point of the pinion retaining screw appears to have been partially sheered off.
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Frank, I really like the light design you came up with. It is in keeping with the desire to not permanently alter the original press while providing a light that is effective and easy to change the bulb.
That Mohawk is a great deal. I am drawn to its unique look. I may try to chase down one for my collection at some point. I do not recall who had the blue mohawk some time ago but that one kind of snagged me to want one when I saw the pics.
Who am I kidding, I really want one of each evolution of the Craftsman Drill Press but how do I justify that with the wife. Currently I have 4 drill presses and I can not stop thinking about the next acquisition.
Anywho, great job on the light and an outstanding application of the KISS principle.
That Mohawk is a great deal. I am drawn to its unique look. I may try to chase down one for my collection at some point. I do not recall who had the blue mohawk some time ago but that one kind of snagged me to want one when I saw the pics.
Who am I kidding, I really want one of each evolution of the Craftsman Drill Press but how do I justify that with the wife. Currently I have 4 drill presses and I can not stop thinking about the next acquisition.
Anywho, great job on the light and an outstanding application of the KISS principle.
Frank, I really like the light design you came up with. It is in keeping with the desire to not permanently alter the original press while providing a light that is effective and easy to change the bulb.
That Mohawk is a great deal. I am drawn to its unique look. I may try to chase down one for my collection at some point. I do not recall who had the blue mohawk some time ago but that one kind of snagged me to want one when I saw the pics.
Who am I kidding, I really want one of each evolution of the Craftsman Drill Press but how do I justify that with the wife. Currently I have 4 drill presses and I can not stop thinking about the next acquisition.
Anywho, great job on the light and an outstanding application of the KISS principle.
That Mohawk is a great deal. I am drawn to its unique look. I may try to chase down one for my collection at some point. I do not recall who had the blue mohawk some time ago but that one kind of snagged me to want one when I saw the pics.
Who am I kidding, I really want one of each evolution of the Craftsman Drill Press but how do I justify that with the wife. Currently I have 4 drill presses and I can not stop thinking about the next acquisition.
Anywho, great job on the light and an outstanding application of the KISS principle.
Where is everyone's power switch? Is anyone using a foot pedal?
I find it odd that I have to reach back to the rear of the drill to flip the switch.
The previous owner also installed this reverse switch, it does not work well, so I am planning on removing it, and possibly put the power switch. It is in a nice location.
I find it odd that I have to reach back to the rear of the drill to flip the switch.
The previous owner also installed this reverse switch, it does not work well, so I am planning on removing it, and possibly put the power switch. It is in a nice location.
Attachments
ttpete
Well-known member
Your trouble may come from trying to reverse it on the fly. It will continue to run in the same direction. You need to turn it off and allow it to come to rest before flipping the reverse switch, then turn it back on and it will start in the opposite direction.
Yes, I always recommend a foot switch. I love my H-O.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6710299
HF has one for $14 before 20% coupon.
Please elaborate on "it does not work well". Is it an ON-OFF-ON switch?
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When I picked it up, the seller said, "when to flip it into reverse, reach up and spin pully to get it going". I'm guessing he did not turn it off first.
I have not had a reason to run it in reverse, so I was going off what he said.
After turning the motor off, then on - the switch works great!
The switch is a two position toggle.
I have not had a reason to run it in reverse, so I was going off what he said.
After turning the motor off, then on - the switch works great!
The switch is a two position toggle.
Hmmm. That doesn't sound like a good idea to reverse a running motor.
I've had several motors with the reversible drum switch. The reversing operation causes the motor to be switched off.
I also had one dp with two switches... I guess similar to what you have. I believe the proper operation was to switch off power, toggle the reverse switch and switch on power. I think that's what you describe.
I've never wired or removed a reverse switch or drum switch.
A reverse switch would come in handy for me. I frequently start a tap into a work piece using the drill press. I get the drill running with my foot switch and release my foot when the tap starts cutting. Depending on the material, I'll get a couple revolutions. I would never try this without a middle pulley though.
A reverse switch would back it out easy. Instead, I'll either turn the chuck ccw by hand, or open the chuck to release the tap and finish tapping by hand.
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Frank, someone was asking about the cover in the .0305 restoration thread. I still need to mock up some measurements...
pikapp
Well-known member
Re: Custom Drill Press Lamp
FrankLee:
OK. I looked around mine and I can see where you went with it. Mine will be dropping to the floor however. I'm ordering parts now and will just keep them together until I can get started this second DP. Probably going get to it before DP#1 though.
Nice score on the Mohawk. I too have always been intrigued by the looks of these first King-Seeley models. You must share how you get these people to agree to these prices though. You've given us all the knowledge on the common problems and how we can point these out in negotiations but, come on Frank...you threaten their families don't you?
11b30b4:
I know the predicament your in with the wife. Just show her who wears the pants in the family.......or do what I do and hide it under a quilt in the back of the SUV until you smuggle it into the garage piece by piece.
In the mock-up, you can see the cord routed between the clamp and the column. During final installation, I wanted to ensure the cord would not get pinched between the strut and column, so I routed the cord inside the strut to the left behind the end of the clamp inside the strut.
I have a 6-1/2', 12 outlet power strip attached to the I-beam in my basement. I have a master paddle switch attached to the I-beam support pole (using the same strut and clamp system as the lamp). The power strip is plugged into a piggy-back plug from the master switch. All my machines in proximity are plugged into it. So my cords go up. When I'm not in the basement, the master switch is off.
The lamp cord is routed under the left motor mount rod and up to the power strip. When the master switch is on, the lamp is on.
FrankLee:
OK. I looked around mine and I can see where you went with it. Mine will be dropping to the floor however. I'm ordering parts now and will just keep them together until I can get started this second DP. Probably going get to it before DP#1 though.
Nice score on the Mohawk. I too have always been intrigued by the looks of these first King-Seeley models. You must share how you get these people to agree to these prices though. You've given us all the knowledge on the common problems and how we can point these out in negotiations but, come on Frank...you threaten their families don't you?
11b30b4:
I know the predicament your in with the wife. Just show her who wears the pants in the family.......or do what I do and hide it under a quilt in the back of the SUV until you smuggle it into the garage piece by piece.
Re: Custom Drill Press Lamp
Yes, that helps, but you can usually easily determine the seller's motivation to sell. Higher motivation generally means lower price.
In the recent mohawk case, there was a bunch of trash piled on and around the drill press. There was a short wire attached to each pole of the motor with no plug. He had to insert the twisted wire ends into an outlet to test. It was obvious it wasn't used in a very long time. It was listed for sale for several weeks and he just lowered the price. He just wanted it gone.
......
Nice score on the Mohawk. I too have always been intrigued by the looks of these first King-Seeley models. You must share how you get these people to agree to these prices though. You've given us all the knowledge on the common problems and how we can point these out in negotiations but, come on Frank...you threaten their families don't you?
......
Yes, that helps, but you can usually easily determine the seller's motivation to sell. Higher motivation generally means lower price.
In the recent mohawk case, there was a bunch of trash piled on and around the drill press. There was a short wire attached to each pole of the motor with no plug. He had to insert the twisted wire ends into an outlet to test. It was obvious it wasn't used in a very long time. It was listed for sale for several weeks and he just lowered the price. He just wanted it gone.
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pikapp
Well-known member
Re: Custom Drill Press Lamp
Unbelievable! With all that **** piled around it he's (and your) lucky he didn't burn down the garage attaching those leads! You saw the romex cord that came with my last purchase. Is it REALLY that tough to pickup and install a $10 power cord from HD? Must be, and maybe it's all of us tool guys that are the odd balls...
Was the cover damaged of the left side or is it just the angle of the photo?
Unbelievable! With all that **** piled around it he's (and your) lucky he didn't burn down the garage attaching those leads! You saw the romex cord that came with my last purchase. Is it REALLY that tough to pickup and install a $10 power cord from HD? Must be, and maybe it's all of us tool guys that are the odd balls...
Was the cover damaged of the left side or is it just the angle of the photo?
I spotted this Craftsman motor on fbmp this afternoon for a decent price. It was only a few miles away, so I went and grabbed it. It's a 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm, sleeve bearing, model 113.12530, dated 10/75. It'll be perfect for a drill press. The cone pulley was a bonus.
12/31/2020
It only took two hours to dismantle, clean, wax and reassemble this motor. I do eventually want to install a longer cord though. The original is only 4'.
12/31/2020
It only took two hours to dismantle, clean, wax and reassemble this motor. I do eventually want to install a longer cord though. The original is only 4'.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
That is the EXACT same motor as is on my 7" 1935 Companion T-saw I'm in process of re-mounting on a typing table. (it's TINY) .
It has a 4" pulley, vs. the 2" on the saw arbor, so that was what they did to get the blade speed where it needed to be (only now the motor is effectively 1/4 HP)
Surprisingly, its never been a problem. My old 10" saws with 1 HP motors stalled out FAR more than this one ever has...
It has a 4" pulley, vs. the 2" on the saw arbor, so that was what they did to get the blade speed where it needed to be (only now the motor is effectively 1/4 HP)
Surprisingly, its never been a problem. My old 10" saws with 1 HP motors stalled out FAR more than this one ever has...
I've had several of these post cast Iron Age motors recently. They are a breeze to dismantle and clean. I really appreciate their ease of refurb. I haven't had any of these where the wiring crumbled.
Here it is in the '75/'76 catalog, #7:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/18408.pdf#page=115
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Good morning!
This is a brilliant thread. Thank you.
I am looking at what I think is a Model 100. Is there any thought or anecdotal evidence date coding a DP by the color of the Craftsman badge? Some are red, some are burgundy. The one I am looking at is burgundy...and is about 100 miles away.
Thank you.
This is a brilliant thread. Thank you.
I am looking at what I think is a Model 100. Is there any thought or anecdotal evidence date coding a DP by the color of the Craftsman badge? Some are red, some are burgundy. The one I am looking at is burgundy...and is about 100 miles away.
Thank you.
Welcome!
The first post of this thread has many links to identify the model, the age and other evolutionary changes. I suggest viewing all links under the GENERAL section and then if you get that machine, the more specific posts relative to your machine.
We love pictures! It's not too early to post some from the seller's ad.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
I will jump in. No glaring issues jumping out to me, has the quick adjust feed stop, xy table isnt original. Not sure what the cap screw is under the quill spring in pic 1. No overwhelmingly desirable options, but nothing too bad either. Power bronze run was only a few years.
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I will jump in. No glaring issues jumping out to me, has the quick adjust feed stop, xy table isnt original. Not sure what the cap screw is under the quill spring in pic 1. No overwhelmingly desirable options, but nothing too bad either. Power bronze run was only a few years.
Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Frank, now that you mention it, looks odd to have a head lock handle in earlier style, and the quill lock with the chromed lever, isnt it?
Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app
pikapp
Well-known member
Bro,
What is the date code on the motor plate? I can't make it out.
Frank, Cruz,
Have you guys seen motor bands that were painted bronze like this one? I've only seen the ones with the turned (sublimated?) stripes.
Yes, very recently.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8838605
There were fewer and fewer references to gray enamel machines in catalogs leading up to '58. I have no proof, but it's my belief that Power Bronze first appeared on machines in stores in 1956.
The first reference to Power Bronze paint was in the '59-'60 catalog for the 10" table saw. The last reference that I found was in the 1963 catalog for the belt driven grinders, shaper and 10" table saw
The paint color was not listed for all machines, so its difficult to pinpoint when Power Bronze was used on each machine.
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DaveT
Well-known member
Yep this one is on my table saw. Date code M59
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Wow, never seen a triple belt setup on a Craftsman saw, especially on such a small motor. Did you fabricate your own pulleys?
DaveT
Well-known member
Exmaxima1: Nope I believe it’s all original to this 1959 Floor Model table saw.
Deker
Well-known member
Hi all, just brought home my first drill press yesterday...a Craftsman 103.23140. The seller told me he got it a couple months ago from a man whose father had been the original owner and had recently passed. I've attached some pictures below. First impressions?
Looking forward to taking it apart and cleaning it up, but before I do that I've got a couple questions:
1. The belt broke while the seller was giving me a demo...the belt that broke was a 1/2x45, which is consistent with the info in post #82. But the 1947 owners manual for the 103.23140 lists a 1/2x44. Any idea on which is correct?
2. There's a bit of slop in the headstock lock handle in the direction towards / away from the the head frame...maybe about a 1/2" of movement. Is this normal?
I've got a lot to learn about these units but with the help of this thread I'm well on my way!
Looking forward to taking it apart and cleaning it up, but before I do that I've got a couple questions:
1. The belt broke while the seller was giving me a demo...the belt that broke was a 1/2x45, which is consistent with the info in post #82. But the 1947 owners manual for the 103.23140 lists a 1/2x44. Any idea on which is correct?
2. There's a bit of slop in the headstock lock handle in the direction towards / away from the the head frame...maybe about a 1/2" of movement. Is this normal?
I've got a lot to learn about these units but with the help of this thread I'm well on my way!
Attachments
Its funny, I saw that very same one for sale. It was in Arcadia. The price put me off especially for only 1/2 hp motor instead of the 3/4, and no desirable extras like an MSA or vari slow etc. Otherwise it looks in decent shape. Hope it works out well for you!
The AX45 will work. I've never tried a 44. The motor mount pulls out so you can easily take up any extra slack.
By headstock lock handle, are you referring to the lock for the column? Or the lock for the quill? I'm guessing the column lock? Might just be frozen up with a little corrosion and need to be cleaned/freed up. It appears to be a drill press that's seen fairly little corrosion, though the headband is in such good shape compared to other parts, I'm wondering if that was was replaced, and then I'd wonder if someone else has been inside it before.
The AX45 will work. I've never tried a 44. The motor mount pulls out so you can easily take up any extra slack.
By headstock lock handle, are you referring to the lock for the column? Or the lock for the quill? I'm guessing the column lock? Might just be frozen up with a little corrosion and need to be cleaned/freed up. It appears to be a drill press that's seen fairly little corrosion, though the headband is in such good shape compared to other parts, I'm wondering if that was was replaced, and then I'd wonder if someone else has been inside it before.
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