Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
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It's been a while since I checked runout on my keeper machine. 0.002" is not too shabby.
I also checked the squareness of the table to the spindle. It was probably 0.015" off. I removed the taper pin, loosened the tilt lock, reset the taper pin and tightened the lock. It's not perfect, but it's much better.
I also checked the squareness of the table to the spindle. It was probably 0.015" off. I removed the taper pin, loosened the tilt lock, reset the taper pin and tightened the lock. It's not perfect, but it's much better.
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Moonshine78
Member
Hi Frank, I came across a local ad for this specimen of your dp#79: https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/d/greenbush-mini-craftsman-benchtop-drill/7290002722.html . It is definitely an interesting design. I would guess the idea was to move the motor off the head to reduce weight for the smaller diameter column. I don't know why the spindle pulley is mounted so high. It's not for me, but if i had space, it would be an interesting novelty item for the garage shop. Seems these were from the 1940s?
ttpete
Well-known member
It's been a while since I checked runout on my keeper machine. 0.002" is not too shabby.
I also checked the squareness of the table to the spindle. It was probably 0.015" off. I removed the taper pin, loosened the tilt lock, reset the taper pin and tightened the lock. It's not perfect, but it's much better.
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I have a square aluminum bar with a dowel pin pressed in one end and the indicator clamped in the other as a tramming fixture.
It's much more accurate to tram over a longer distance.
Moonshine78
Member
I have located a Mastercraft 500 rotary table about an hour's drive away from me. It appears from photos to be in pretty solid shape. Any thoughts on fair price? Asking is $175. Also, are there standard t-slot clamps that fit it? It does not appear to include any.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
MS, on the old CL motor, be sure to verify that new cord actually is grounded inside. I've seen many that were not...
Moonshine78
Member
I just took some of the outer plates off. In the base, they wrapped the ground around one of the bottom cover screws. I might drill and tap the mount plate for a proper ground screw. The hot and neutral are twisted, soldered and taped. I prefer wire nuts or a crimped connection but the solder seems to have held up ok.
The switch needs to be replaced. It is spring biased to the on position. Should be a straight-forward swap.
Any idea what the approx. 3x5 metal component in the bottom is? Is that the capacitor?
It seem this was used for some sort of woodworking tool—there is a lot of fine sawdust-like powder inside. I am considering opening it up an doing a bit of refurb before I use it.
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Yes, that is the capacitor. I would be careful with it, as they don't make them anymore
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Hoorn
Well-known member
Moonshine, handle that capacitor like it's fine china. I just went through an issue with a flat capacitor...as Cruzan said, they don't make them anymore.
Cracking open motors and cleaning them out is a good move. Be prepared to replace and/or shrink wrap some of the original wiring. There are several links in the first post about motor refurbs and many examples throughout this thread and others. Don't be concerned too much about searching for examples of your exact model number. Most of these Craftsman/Dunlap motors are very similar in basic construction.
I've used these switches several times and these cord replacements dozens of times.
The capacitors are originally enclosed or surrounded in a cardboard sleeve. IMO, the po taping over the contacts is insufficient.
Sawdust accumulation is very common in these old motors.
Keeping parts organized helps reassembly.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
The question is, did THEY pick it?
I didn't see the episode but I can not believe with as iconic as the 100 is, that they would have passed on it. That thing would look great in a bar like the flat iron.
BTW, my springs arrived today.
So happy i have spares if and when I need them.
BTW, my springs arrived today.
So happy i have spares if and when I need them.
Mr. Wonderful
Well-known member
This one just popped up if anyone is interested. Table top model for $5!
https://offerup.com/item/detail/1087651894/
https://offerup.com/item/detail/1087651894/
Reversepolarity
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Picked this 80 up yesterday.
Tore down, cleaned, and starting the paint job. Mechanically solid.
Just needed cleaned up and rewired.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Picked this 80 up yesterday.
Tore down, cleaned, and starting the paint job. Mechanically solid.
Just needed cleaned up and rewired.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Reversepolarity
Well-known member
Moonshine78
Member
Does anyone have any thoughts on what is the best-looking color scheme if I repaint my old craftsman motor? The machine is gold.
I still need to go through the threads to see how to source the motor bearings, but I will try to document my motor rebuild with photos on here once it dig in.
Also curious what solutions people use for a work lamp, if any, for the DP.
I still need to go through the threads to see how to source the motor bearings, but I will try to document my motor rebuild with photos on here once it dig in.
Also curious what solutions people use for a work lamp, if any, for the DP.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
If I were closer, I would grab it for parts if nothing else!
Sent from my IN2015 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my IN2015 using The Garage Journal mobile app
"Best looking" is very subjective, but for motor colors on a Power Bronze machine, I would be looking at Rustoleum Venetian Bronze for the end caps and Sunlit Brass for the center band. Both are matte finish.
I'm using Venetian Bronze on a project right now and like it a lot. I bought Sunlit Brass, but haven't sprayed it yet to see how close it is to Craftsman Power Bronze.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...iversal/universal-matte-metallic-spray-paint/
There are a few posts in this thread with custom lamp creations. Here's mine:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8855950
Hey, first thank you for posting all the great content. I picked up a Craftsman 150 bench model 113.24501, the Charcoal paint colored version. It has a bit of a spindle wobble. I have dismantled the headstock. Found worn out spindle pulley bearings, got those today and was going to dismantle the quill assembly and thought i’d better ask first about bearing noise/wear judgement. The quill bearings aren’t really noisey, but i am a woodturner, not a machinist. Am i listening for whisperquiet bearings. When i apply side pressure to the chuck to see if the spindle has radial play there is none. Should i for good measure disassemble the spindle /quill/ chuck anyway? This started out as an effort to just get it running true but now after reading posts for three days on this site i am hooked and now i want to scrub it clean, shine all the goods up, sand prime and paint it too. Advice on bearing noise ( subjective i know) would be appreciated.
Hoorn
Well-known member
If your intention is to keep it the original power bronze paint scheme, I went with champagne mist to replicate the power bronze, and for the base and end caps of the motor I used Montana gold shock dark brown which is a matte finish also.
Of my pics, the first is the original brown from Craftsman, and the second is the shock dark brown. I tried no less than 8 different browns and 9 different "gold" colors to replicate each one and those were the closest to my eye.
Note, only the motor band is still original color.
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speaking of power switches,
My Rockwell has a nice front-mounted switch on a standard 2x4 electric box plate. Works fine, but it's a toggle, and I'd really like a pull-on push-off. All I've been able to find is twist-on push-off. Anyone know of a source?
While I'm at it, I'll probably convert my table saws and other drill press, bandsaw.... and so on.
My Rockwell has a nice front-mounted switch on a standard 2x4 electric box plate. Works fine, but it's a toggle, and I'd really like a pull-on push-off. All I've been able to find is twist-on push-off. Anyone know of a source?
While I'm at it, I'll probably convert my table saws and other drill press, bandsaw.... and so on.
Moonshine78
Member
Thanks Frank and Hoorn.
Hoorn— that is a very good match. I had actually decided on champagne mist after finding some other threads on the topic. It’s great you have an original motor.
Frank — I really like your work light solution.
Hoorn— that is a very good match. I had actually decided on champagne mist after finding some other threads on the topic. It’s great you have an original motor.
Frank — I really like your work light solution.
Hoorn
Well-known member
If you go with the champagne mist, you could give some thought to hitting it with a satin or matte clear coat. I felt the glossy C. mist had too much sheen so I hit it with two coats of satin after to mellow it out.
That Montana Gold is an "artists spray paint" which I thought was mere marketing, but it does spray very easy and go on extremely smooth.
Moonshine78
Member
I think there are mushroom switches that would work. McMaster has a large selection (https://www.mcmaster.com/mushroom-switches/) but might find something cheaper elsewhere.
Depending on amperage, you might need to use a 120vac coil relay.
Reversepolarity
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
A little touch up paint. And paint the motor.
The 80 will be done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A little touch up paint. And paint the motor.
The 80 will be done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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If there is any gritty feeling, grabbing, or hesitation in the quill bearings when turning by hand, they need to be serviced or replaced. Then there is the argument that since you have the machine apart this far, you may as well replace them.
I think that if you have the means to easily r&r them, do it. That is, do you have a press or the proper tools to get it done safely.
If the chuck has a visible wobble, new bearings will likely not correct that.
What did you see that determined the spindle pulley bearings were bad?
Good morning, thank you for the reply and advice. I looked at your press tool using the strut channel and might go for that. I have everything: quill, spindle and chuck soaking in penetrating oil. There was a significant noise from the spindle pulley. I removed it based on your instructions. I was glad to see I didn't have to remove the ring the lower bearing sits on, I was wondering how I would get that out of there. I initially notice an obvious bearing noise from the pulley area and thought it might be responsible for a wobble in the spindle assy. I was getting slightly elongated holes when I tested the unit out. When I removed the pulley assy the lower bearing had worn the shaft a bit and the upper bearing was quite rough when the inner race was held still and the bearing turned by hand. I cleaned the shaft up, got rid of the ring burr. I was going to put it back together and got to reading the thread in depth. I thought maybe if the pulley bearings were bad it could affect the quill bearings. Since reading I don't know if worn out pulley bearings could even cause a wobble. Since there is some slight quill bearing noise I was concerned they might be defective. the problem is I don't have enough experience with bearings to know if a slight noise is ever acceptable. While the pully bearing noise was obvious the quill bearing noise I can't discern. BTW, I can't PM you and order the orings, I don't have enough posts yet. Do you still have some to sell?
Thanks.
HVACR1, Frank sells them through ebay, here is the link to the O-rings.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cr...710687?hash=item3fdd1e9d1f:g:-24AAOSwlndZCJWV
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cr...710687?hash=item3fdd1e9d1f:g:-24AAOSwlndZCJWV
Thanks, got it. but couldn't PM you back, still have to post 3 more times. Oh well such are the rules. I can't get the chuck off, I am going to try again late tonight or tomorrow, so....if I screw something up I might end up needing a spindle, quill or chuck and threaded thrust adapter. chuck is 633C. Do you have any of those parts?
TY
Thank you.
I have a few chucks, but we'll get your chuck off. You may need to buy or make a pin spanner.
Did you see this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5042834
pikapp
Well-known member
I have been investigating some of the paint colors of grey mentioned here after removing the black paint the PO had installed on my 12 1/2 1946 100. Some spots of the black had to sanded off. I was looking at what I think is the original grey paint on the underside of the base. I made some test panels of the ACE Machinery Grey Gloss and a Krylon I found at Lowes, Matte Deep Grey. Both are just one coat over bare 22 gauge steel with no primer. As you can see both of them are slightly lighter than the dark grey on the base and they seem to be very similar to each other. Using the red primer or a darker base coat may darken them as outlaw suggested a while back. Sorry I don't have photo production lamps, this is just normal indirect daylight. The gloss is not very glossy, but may be with a second coat and seemed to get darker as it dried. The matte is interesting, its is not flat but more flat than semi-gloss. I'm going to get some of the Flat Soft Iron mentioned by atlas and see what that looks like.
