Craftsman too box score
- Thread starter mrbreezeet1
- Start date
The Griplatch is the best system of drawer retention IMO. You definitely ****, that is a killer price on that combo.
If you want a full length drawer I think Sears does sell a matching unit for around $100 IIRC. If you have longer pry bars it's worth it, that is the only thing the HF box has on that one.
If you want a full length drawer I think Sears does sell a matching unit for around $100 IIRC. If you have longer pry bars it's worth it, that is the only thing the HF box has on that one.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
Good score. I don't know why everybody hates those, they are not bad boxes.
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
You mean like a middle chest? Or 1 drawer middle section?
Yeah, I know, when I saw the ball bearing grip latch, that's what sold it.
Yeah, I know, when I saw the ball bearing grip latch, that's what sold it.
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Oh, a lot of guys hate them?
I didn't know that.
26 wide would fit better next to my lathe like shown below, but I thought for the price, this would be a better box, and I will make room.
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Sears used to sell these with a full length top drawer, I have a blue one and a black one. I don't believe they sell them anymore.
yeah there is a 1 drawer middle section available, IIRC, next time I go to my local sears I will snap a photo if I can remember
sporty_drew
Well-known member
Looks like $179 online
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
This must be it here, but it's $180.00.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-40-3...ing-griplatch-reg-middle-chest/p-00959604000P
Wow, that bottom box is $679.99, and the top one is $379.99.Damm, that's over a grand.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00959624000P?mv=rr
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00959623000P?mv=rr
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-40-3...ing-griplatch-reg-middle-chest/p-00959604000P
Wow, that bottom box is $679.99, and the top one is $379.99.Damm, that's over a grand.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00959624000P?mv=rr
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00959623000P?mv=rr
PassnThru
Well-known member
That box (the combo) has been on sale recently for about $750. I bought mine the first of this year for $700 and that's the cheapest I've ever seen it. The GripLatch is nice and the GripLatch boxes are definitely a step up from even the regular ball bearing boxes. That box gets no respect here because it's a Craftsman.
Good score
filtered
Well-known member
You did really well. I paid $300 just for the lower box and the upper box was $265. I did buy mine brand new from sears though. My lower box is the discontinued 11 drawer version. I've been debating on getting the middle full length drawer.
zjrog
Well-known member
That full width drawer is a nice addition, might think about adding that to my HF box. I don't have room for the top chest where I have the HF box.
tom65special
Member
I have the same box and love it. I have added the single drawer middle chest and a full height side locker. I have had mine for about 5 years and am extremely happy with it.
kbkna
Well-known member
YOU ****! Nice score!
40standard
Member
a good deal
stopdroplol
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 640
this and you ****
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Well, got it home and cleaned up today.
Wondering if anybody disabled the locking system where you have to have the top open to open the top drawers. It would be nice to change it maybe, where you could lock them manually if you wanted to.
I like my Husky box, it has something like it, but you throw a lever over and that locks the drawers, then you can lock the top if you want.
What about the drawer liners, did anyone actually use these ones from e bay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330666528317
Wondering if anybody disabled the locking system where you have to have the top open to open the top drawers. It would be nice to change it maybe, where you could lock them manually if you wanted to.
I like my Husky box, it has something like it, but you throw a lever over and that locks the drawers, then you can lock the top if you want.
What about the drawer liners, did anyone actually use these ones from e bay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330666528317
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
I know what too, did your have a handle on both ends. Guess I could order one if the guy I got it from don't still have it.
There is holes in the other side, but no handle.
There is holes in the other side, but no handle.
PassnThru
Well-known member
Mine only came with one handle. The holes are on both sides so you can decide which side you want it on.
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
OK thanks, I'll probably just leave it as it is then.
jjjrmx5
Well-known member
The lock lift top has been a Sears staple since way back when.
Not quite sure what you'd get by removing or disabling it since the lock bar is located on the back side of the lid and moves with teh lid on a hinge to lock the dwrs from the rear of the box.
It's just part of the design, Disabling it devalues the box and renders the locking top box dwrs unlockable.
F&^% with it all ya want but don't expect anyone if is ever sold ( & if that is a possiblity) to be happy nor willing to pay anywhere near market value to "re-engineer or undo your security deletions.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Depending on the engagement mechanism for the bar, you might be able to make a latch that holds it up if it relies on gravity to drop down. If it is linked to the top, probably not so easy a change.
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
I don't know, I'll probably just leave it alone, but it looks like it might not be too hard, "IF" the 3 pins knock out easy.
It's just that I don't always want to open the top, and I really don't need to lock it, I thought it would have been nice if they gave you a way to disable it, sort of a built in feature.
My blue point cart is like that, you slide a lever over to lock the drawers.
I would only modify it if it could be but back to factory with out being able to tell.
I don't want to mess it up, as it is like new.
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Well, here is a picture in it's new "home".
Did away with the locking with the lid thing for now at least.
Note; No tool boxes were harmed in any way in this modification.
Pins taped right out with a slim punch, Put them somewhere "safe" where I can forget where there at, used 3 cotter pins as shown to hold the latch's up.
If you decide to do this, just be careful, I had to remove 2 of the latches and file a little off them (real mild steel) so they would clear the outside hinged area where the pin goes through. After opening all the drawers, they pull straight up and out.
Did away with the locking with the lid thing for now at least.
Note; No tool boxes were harmed in any way in this modification.
Pins taped right out with a slim punch, Put them somewhere "safe" where I can forget where there at, used 3 cotter pins as shown to hold the latch's up.
If you decide to do this, just be careful, I had to remove 2 of the latches and file a little off them (real mild steel) so they would clear the outside hinged area where the pin goes through. After opening all the drawers, they pull straight up and out.
Attachments
jjjrmx5
Well-known member
I approve for a basement box mrbreezeet1
.
Might want to try and find a roll pin with a single or double cotter hole to hold that hinge as I;m guesing the cotter pin will fail over time by not being round nor hardened.
Ur call.
Noce buy tho.
.
Might want to try and find a roll pin with a single or double cotter hole to hold that hinge as I;m guesing the cotter pin will fail over time by not being round nor hardened.
Ur call.
Noce buy tho.
98TJ
Well-known member
Nice score!
With our upcoming move I've been thinking about selling my 41" Craftsman.
The lower unit is a 13 drawer setup with a full width drawer - something they no longer offer.
Then, of course there's the top and the middle drawer.
They're great units for the homeowner. I've had this one for 8+ years and have never had issue with it.
Picture of the 41" with full-width drawer.
http://sphotos.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431738_1932157920926_1751610005_934042_2087907903_n.jpg
Not to get off-topic, but what's a fair price for this setup? The full-width in the lower seems to be rare these days. It's not offered on the current units and hasn't been offered for quite some time.
With our upcoming move I've been thinking about selling my 41" Craftsman.
The lower unit is a 13 drawer setup with a full width drawer - something they no longer offer.
Then, of course there's the top and the middle drawer.
They're great units for the homeowner. I've had this one for 8+ years and have never had issue with it.
Picture of the 41" with full-width drawer.
http://sphotos.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431738_1932157920926_1751610005_934042_2087907903_n.jpg
Not to get off-topic, but what's a fair price for this setup? The full-width in the lower seems to be rare these days. It's not offered on the current units and hasn't been offered for quite some time.
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
I approve for a basement box mrbreezeet1
.
Might want to try and find a roll pin with a single or double cotter hole to hold that hinge as I;m guesing the cotter pin will fail over time by not being round nor hardened.
Ur call.
Nice buy tho.
Yeah, if it was at work, I would want to be able to lock it, I would not have done this.
No, that is the latch just sitting on the cotter pin, as if the top is open.
Looking at it I guess the latch is sitting a little higher than it would be if it were connected to the lid.
But it just stays/sits there, there is no stress on the cotter pin.
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
98TJ,
IDK, I don't think I'd take less than $600.00 for it. Maybe you could get more.
Esp. with the middle riser, and the fact that it had the long drawer on the bottom unit.
Looking at whats out there, and what they want for it, Used is the way to go, unless one goes with the US General.
Thats like this box here, I have at work, I might sell it, or I might take it to the new building where I'll be working(99% sure), but I really don't need my tools there, just sort of want them there.
But if I do sell it, I won't take less than $300.00 for it.
It is a top Husky, and the bottom craftsman, and they are both real nice made boxes.
Don't have anything to do with it, but I have this machinist box there, on my bench next to it. Sorry if this is too big, it wouldn't load as an attachment.
Machinist box must have got lost in cyber space.
Ok there it is as an attachment
IDK, I don't think I'd take less than $600.00 for it. Maybe you could get more.
Esp. with the middle riser, and the fact that it had the long drawer on the bottom unit.
Looking at whats out there, and what they want for it, Used is the way to go, unless one goes with the US General.
Thats like this box here, I have at work, I might sell it, or I might take it to the new building where I'll be working(99% sure), but I really don't need my tools there, just sort of want them there.
But if I do sell it, I won't take less than $300.00 for it.
It is a top Husky, and the bottom craftsman, and they are both real nice made boxes.
Don't have anything to do with it, but I have this machinist box there, on my bench next to it. Sorry if this is too big, it wouldn't load as an attachment.
Machinist box must have got lost in cyber space.
Ok there it is as an attachment
Attachments
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OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
What did you ever come up with for the gas shocks for the 5 drawer HF cart?I approve for a basement box mrbreezeet1
.
Might want to try and find a roll pin with a single or double cotter hole to hold that hinge as I;m guesing the cotter pin will fail over time by not being round nor hardened.
Ur call.
Nice buy tho.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93170
Nice score. Feel bad about the seller dude though. What happened to all the tools that were stored in it also?
The Griplatches have pretty smooth drawers. I have a 3 drawer 26" middle chest in my home electronics lab. The Griplatches are the lowest Craftsman I would personally use.
The Griplatches have pretty smooth drawers. I have a 3 drawer 26" middle chest in my home electronics lab. The Griplatches are the lowest Craftsman I would personally use.
OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
He didn't have much in this one, he had most of his tools in a cart.
He's doing alright, he already living with another woman, and just brought about an 09 Harley dresser.
waterboy12
Well-known member
Where did you get the side locker? Pics?
That box would be similar to mine but not Grip-Latch. My bottom is older, has BB slides and the single full width drawer. I added a Grip-Latch side box and a full width Grip-latch drawer. Theres another side box with compound slides that I'm not really happy with.
While I know and understand the not wanting the top open to use the drawes, I prefer to be able to easily lock my box when I need to. Something in todays thieves and scrappers I feel is important.
While I know and understand the not wanting the top open to use the drawes, I prefer to be able to easily lock my box when I need to. Something in todays thieves and scrappers I feel is important.
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jjjrmx5
Well-known member
I've got an awesome local mom amd pop store that is stocked with 3, 100' long isles full of Hillman hardware boxes full of every fastener available. It's mamoth.
For the cart I used a flat headed anchor pin that had pre-drilled holes along it's length to accept cotter pins.
I couldn't find the dia. I needed so I took the size smaller they had and used an M6 washer to shim and make the head large enough and then lined up the closest hole for a cotter pin on the other side.
If your hdwre store stocks the Hillman line ( a Cincinnati based worldwide fastener supplier btw), you should find something a little more robust than a cotter pin.
Hell, even a 3" length of round steel rod stock or small dia. re-bar cutoffs from a concrete job would be fine and far beefier than that cotter pin.
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OP
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Yeah, I thought about that too, this is a pretty good neighbor hood, but you never know.
Yeah, those are nice with the long drawers.
Thanks To all, sometimes you in the right place at the right time.
I've got an awesome local mom amd pop store that is stocked with 3, 100' long isles full of Hillman hardware boxes full of every fastener available. It's mamoth.
For the cart I used a flat headed anchor pin that had pre-drilled holes along it's length to accept cotter pins.
I couldn't find the dia. I needed so I took the size smaller they had and used an M6 washer to shim and make the head large enough and then lined up the closest hole for a cotter pin on the other side.
If your hdwre store stocks the Hillman line ( a Cincinnati based worldwide fastener supplier btw), you should find something a little more robust than a cotter pin.
Hell, even a 3" length of round steel rod stock or small dia. re-bar cutoffs from a concrete job would be fine and far beefier than that cotter pin.
Sounds good, I can bring home some roll pins from work.
But you were able to find gas shocks for it?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I've got an awesome local mom amd pop store that is stocked with 3, 100' long isles full of Hillman hardware boxes full of every fastener available. It's mamoth.
For the cart I used a flat headed anchor pin that had pre-drilled holes along it's length to accept cotter pins.
I couldn't find the dia. I needed so I took the size smaller they had and used an M6 washer to shim and make the head large enough and then lined up the closest hole for a cotter pin on the other side.
If your hdwre store stocks the Hillman line ( a Cincinnati based worldwide fastener supplier btw), you should find something a little more robust than a cotter pin.
Hell, even a 3" length of round steel rod stock or small dia. re-bar cutoffs from a concrete job would be fine and far beefier than that cotter pin.
Um, the cotter pin is holding up a bar that weighs a few ounces, certainly under a pound... Not sure I understand the worry over something that could be held up with a ladies bobby pin...
jjjrmx5
Well-known member
Um, the cotter pin is holding up a bar that weighs a few ounces, certainly under a pound... Not sure I understand the worry over something that could be held up with a ladies bobby pin...
Yes, but with a sufficient support pin, the top box hinge can be re-inserted thus preventing the possibility of the lid flopping down and taking out a finger, eye or creating a head wound. If you think it can happen, it usually will.
He's defeating two safety/security systems there. I was just trying to be helpful. Sorry.
As for the gas shocks for the HF cart, replacemetns from HF are around $15ea. plus shipping and those from teh local and even online rv/camper stores are higher.
Hood and hatch shocks are too high of a psi, so I went Snap-On hinge retro fit. Lifetime warranty and way simpler and far more reliable years from now.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The cotter pin I was talking about is the one for the locking bar, and AFAIK that has nothing to do with keeping the lid up? Or am I missing something?
Yes, but with a sufficient support pin, the top box hinge can be re-inserted thus preventing the possibility of the lid flopping down and taking out a finger, eye or creating a head wound. If you think it can happen, it usually will.
He's defeating two safety/security systems there. I was just trying to be helpful. Sorry.
As for the gas shocks for the HF cart, replacemetns from HF are around $15ea. plus shipping and those from teh local and even online rv/camper stores are higher.
Hood and hatch shocks are too high of a psi, so I went Snap-On hinge retro fit. Lifetime warranty and way simpler and far more reliable years from now.