Craftsman Tool Chest Restoration Advice

[clcrabtr]

Hey there!

I have a 2000 Craftsman Tool Chest that I got on Marketplace, and this seems to be the place to go for help with that. Pictures are included in a link below because that seemed less onerous visually. I've got the drawer sliders off and soaking and will probably just about leave the drawers alone - they're banged up and not sure it's worth wet-sanding or re-painting them (unless you suggest I do). I had several questions though:

1. I'm going to sand down the rough spots on the chest to level and repaint. Painting/finishing has always been the bane of my existence (I'm a woodworker), so I wondered what paint/primer I might use to avoid/minimize imperfections. I've seen Rustoleum Hammered and bed liner paints recommended, but the colors are pretty limited. I was going to go with a dark green for the repaint - any suggestions? And do I need to prime the whole chest or just the parts I sand down to metal?
2. It did not come with keys, and I can't quite make out the code. It's either 3, 5, or 8-111. If I order new keys will they simply fit? Will I need a locksmith to cut them?
3. The casters are beat to hell. Any recommendations on good replacements?

I've read through a lot of the old posts of similar projects, but the advice seemed to be tough to really follow so would really appreciate some specific help. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/bTMiUVZ

 

[RTM]

It did not come with keys, and I can't quite make out the code. It's either 3, 5, or 8-111. If I order new keys will they simply fit? Will I need a locksmith to cut them?

I would go to Easy keys, and see which number might be valid. If all are, contact them, see what they say. Or look at the pix, see if the long way ridges look right.


95% success rate buying from them, one fail was something like laser cut vs normal cut, per their phone support. Sent me out new ones cut the other way, worked fine

Craftsman Toolbox Replacement Keys

Shop Craftsman replacement keys, key blanks, and toolbox cam locks for tool chests and storage cabinets. Genuine compatible parts for restoring access, creating duplicates, and replacing damaged locks.

easykeys.com

 

[BTL-A4]

Hey there!

I have a 2000 Craftsman Tool Chest that I got on Marketplace, and this seems to be the place to go for help with that. Pictures are included in a link below because that seemed less onerous visually. I've got the drawer sliders off and soaking and will probably just about leave the drawers alone - they're banged up and not sure it's worth wet-sanding or re-painting them (unless you suggest I do). I had several questions though:

1. I'm going to sand down the rough spots on the chest to level and repaint. Painting/finishing has always been the bane of my existence (I'm a woodworker), so I wondered what paint/primer I might use to avoid/minimize imperfections. I've seen Rustoleum Hammered and bed liner paints recommended, but the colors are pretty limited. I was going to go with a dark green for the repaint - any suggestions? And do I need to prime the whole chest or just the parts I sand down to metal?
2. It did not come with keys, and I can't quite make out the code. It's either 3, 5, or 8-111. If I order new keys will they simply fit? Will I need a locksmith to cut them?
3. The casters are beat to hell. Any recommendations on good replacements?

I've read through a lot of the old posts of similar projects, but the advice seemed to be tough to really follow so would really appreciate some specific help. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/bTMiUVZ

I've done this to another tool chest. You want to sand the whole chest where you are painting it, not just some areas. 220 grit will be sufficient. You want to break the smooth surface and give the paint something to stick to. Primer the whole thing, then final paint. The primer will show any imperfections so you can fix them (Bondo or the glazing and spot putty works well) and re-primer them. With painting, prep is everything.

I used rattle-can paint, so the dents and dings were still visible, but I think the textured paints you mention will work fine to cover any imperfections. It takes practice to get them to go on evenly. If you really want to get fancy, use auto paint. You'll need a compressor and a paint gun (I used a HF cheapo gun to paint a car and it worked fine.). You'll also need PPE and some sort of enclosed area or a space outside away from dirt and wind. Look into it (go down the rabbit hole!) and see if it's an option for you.

Be mindful of the "oil can" effect if you pound out dings; the metal stretches and looks warped.

I go to a local locksmith and have keys made. Costs about $15 per lock and I get 2 keys. Take the locks with you.

Could you get Craftsman replacement casters? HF might have something that will work as well. Casters can get really expensive. How much are you going to move the tool chest around? On what type of surface(s)? Do you need them to lock? Do you want all 4 to swivel? That can dictate what you get.

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

 

[clcrabtr]

I've done this to another tool chest. You want to sand the whole chest where you are painting it, not just some areas. 220 grit will be sufficient. You want to break the smooth surface and give the paint something to stick to. Primer the whole thing, then final paint. The primer will show any imperfections so you can fix them (Bondo or the glazing and spot putty works well) and re-primer them. With painting, prep is everything.

I used rattle-can paint, so the dents and dings were still visible, but I think the textured paints you mention will work fine to cover any imperfections. It takes practice to get them to go on evenly. If you really want to get fancy, use auto paint. You'll need a compressor and a paint gun (I used a HF cheapo gun to paint a car and it worked fine.). You'll also need PPE and some sort of enclosed area or a space outside away from dirt and wind. Look into it (go down the rabbit hole!) and see if it's an option for you.

Thank you both, I’ll send some more pictures when I get the next steps done. I think I’ll go rattle can as well - I dont have an air compressor so I think doing otherwise would be more overhead than I need for how rarely I paint.

That’s good to know about the hammered paint, I think I may prefer visible dings over a bad finish, so I’ll probably just use a regular spray. The drawers are going to be visibly bent and dinged no matter what I do, so those kind of are what they are, I guess.

Hoping to get everything sanded during the week and maybe can start painting next weekend.

 

[four.cycle]

Easy / EasyKeys, 11407 Granite St. Ste B, Charlotte, NC 28273 / https://easykeys.com/ / keys, locks, locksmith tools / * this is the company that supplies keys for tool boxes * /

The casters are beat to hell. Any recommendations on good replacements?

Check Grizzly.com or Harbor Freight.

 

[driftpin]

I've bought casters online, I forget the exact name, something like casters only. I spent time to search for the exact size and weight-bearing capacity I needed, and I was happy w/the quality of the casters. They had a lot of options.

 

[clcrabtr]

Alright, I’ve got it stripped down and have put two coats of primer on. Need to touch up the primer on the drawer fronts - I’ve decided to keep it red and will do black for the fronts. Will sand down the primer tomorrow and do the first layer of paint.

https://imgur.com/a/eWyAVb7

 

[clcrabtr]

Well, I went for painting today and it turned out…a splotchy, primer-showing mess. assume it’ll look marginally better when fully cured but really disappointed with how it turned out after a ton of prep work. Planning to knock down the too-heavy bits when it’s cured. My try a can of hammered black, but don't really want to waste any more money on this project. Really don’t know why I thought paint was going to go better for me this time, such a disappointment.

https://imgur.com/a/81CTjyU

 

[Skellyii]

After it dries, wet sand it and spray another coat or two and you'll be fine.

 

[AEAdam]

Well, I went for painting today and it turned out…a splotchy, primer-showing mess. assume it’ll look marginally better when fully cured but really disappointed with how it turned out after a ton of prep work. Planning to knock down the too-heavy bits when it’s cured. My try a can of hammered black, but don't really want to waste any more money on this project. Really don’t know why I thought paint was going to go better for me this time, such a disappointment.

https://imgur.com/a/81CTjyU

I know you thought you did a lot of prep work, but all of us can see you didn't. That surface needs to look like glass before you paint color. If you want to get this right, leave it out in the sun and make sure it's 100% cured, then block sand with 400 grit. You'll find a ton of low spots. Bondo those, then block sand 80, then 120, then 220, then prime then block sand 400 again. Keep doing that.



Bondo


Then primer and spot putty. I sanded this all down with to 1200 grit sponges.

Then when you rattle can it, you get this:


Like you, I saw areas here where this wasn't good enough. But I just fixed those spots, didn't redo everything

Finished product:


Here's the point: YOU CAN DO IT. Just spend a little more time on the prep. Getting stuff flat isn't easy. It takes a lot of sanding. And use a block to help flatten your work. And then finer and finer grits make the substrate smoother but also flatter.

 

[mooman]

Soak the can of paint it HOT water before you use them. That's always helped me.

 

[four.cycle]

^ Always. When we sold spray paint, we made it a point to always tell the customer to put the can of spray paint in the sink and fill the sink with hot water, or set the can out in the sun. Cold spray paint just doesn't work.