Cutting and threading pipe.

[600SL]

I'm just about to install my air lines.

I have just purchased a Harbor Freight Pipe threader. My plan is to rent a pipe stand from sunbelt rental. I also need to cut and debur the pipe. No one seems to rent a cutter or debur tool. I will be working with 3/4" black iron pipe.

1) is it OK to but black iron pipe on an abrasive chop saw.

2) any good suggestions for a debur tool.

3) will I need to taper the end to start the die.

4) My EMT bender will also bend black iron. Are there ant issues with bending iron pipe under pressure.

 

[A_Pmech]

1) Yes.

2) A pipe reamer from the plumbing supply or a round file.

3) No, it just needs to be square without burrs.

4) No.

 

[my58dodge]

I bought the Harbor Freight pipe threader for my airline install. I found it much easier to start the die if I ground a chamfer on the pipe with my belt sander first.

 

[Mike Miller]

I used one of the HF pipe threaders when I put the LP gas plumbing in my shop, it worked OK but the threads come out rough and require an ample amount of sealer. The ratchet in the handle is not well made and mine required some work with a file to make it work with out trying to bust my knuckles. Their pipe cutter is flimsy and required a couple of repairs during the job so the cutoff saw would be a better way to go.

 

[Steroblan]

You can cut the pipe on an abrasive chop saw but I wouldn't use anything abrasive because of the grit that could get stuck in the pipe and find it's way into an air tool later.
If you are on a budget you can buy a pipe vise and the tools to deburr and cut at HF for about what you'll pay for a tristand rental and then still have something when you are done.

 

[Techie1961]

I used one of the HF pipe threaders when I put the LP gas plumbing in my shop, it worked OK but the threads come out rough and require an ample amount of sealer. The ratchet in the handle is not well made and mine required some work with a file to make it work with out trying to bust my knuckles. Their pipe cutter is flimsy and required a couple of repairs during the job so the cutoff saw would be a better way to go.

Do NOT use damaged threads when working with gas. It has to be a properly made thread with no material tears. Use only the correct sealant as well that is certified for gas use. This is one bit of piping that needs to be left to a licensed pro.

I am not that familiar with the HF stuff as we don't have them here in Canada. If it is the one that I am thinking of though it is similar to a Ridgid 600. With a tool that rotates the die as opposed to rotating the pipe, there is a strong chance that you will cut the threads off-axis. Make sure that the pipe end is super square when you cut it off and check the threads to see that they are centered on the pipe. You will start centered but if you see the threads getting deeper on one side of the pipe and shallow on the other side, you need to recut it and try again.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

IDK if I'd bend black pipe. In almost 30 years of HVAC and Faclilities Maintenance, I've never seen any threaded pipe that was bent other than conduit. If you install a threaded pipe after you've bent it, you may not be able to disassemble it by unscrewing the fittings. Also, you may split the seam or weaken it. I'm not saying it's dangerous, I just don't see a need for it. There's a reason there are all the different fittings.

Just playing Devil's Advocate...

Tommy

 

[600SL]

I used one of the HF pipe threaders when I put the LP gas plumbing in my shop, it worked OK but the threads come out rough and require an ample amount of sealer. The ratchet in the handle is not well made and mine required some work with a file to make it work with out trying to bust my knuckles. Their pipe cutter is flimsy and required a couple of repairs during the job so the cutoff saw would be a better way to go.

Were you using the electric pipe cutter or the manual. I purchased the electric one.

Were you able to get a pipe cutter and deburr tool from Harbor freight. I could not find one. I also checked Northern Tool no luck.

 

[404]

Use Ridgid dark thread cutting oil.

 

[dowmace]

IDK if I'd bend black pipe. In almost 30 years of HVAC and Faclilities Maintenance, I've never seen any threaded pipe that was bent other than conduit. If you install a threaded pipe after you've bent it, you may not be able to disassemble it by unscrewing the fittings. Also, you may split the seam or weaken it. I'm not saying it's dangerous, I just don't see a need for it. There's a reason there are all the different fittings.

Just playing Devil's Advocate...

Tommy

I spent 10 years as an industrial electrician so I've bent miles of pipe.

When I do black pipe for fuel lines and such on generators I bend any I can I find it much more appealing to the eye than a 90 fitting, my customers like that it's "custom fit"

I've used bent black pipe for diesel fuel, natural gas, and liquid propane. And never had a split seam.

It is however extremely hard to bend compared to regular galvanized rigid conduit.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I spent 10 years as an industrial electrician so I've bent miles of pipe.

When I do black pipe for fuel lines and such on generators I bend any I can I find it much more appealing to the eye than a 90 fitting, my customers like that it's "custom fit"

I've used bent black pipe for diesel fuel, natural gas, and liquid propane. And never had a split seam.

It is however extremely hard to bend compared to regular galvanized rigid conduit.

I did say "other than conduit". I also said I didn't know if it was unsafe or that it can't or even shouldn't be done, just that there's no real need to. As a 30 year HVAC tech/pipe fitter, I respectfully submit that as a 10 year industrial electrician your knowledge of pipe fitting practices may be somewhat more limited than mine. It may not. I'm not trying to start a ******* match, either.

Tommy

 

[dowmace]

I did say "other than conduit". I also said I didn't know if it was unsafe or that it can't or even shouldn't be done, just that there's no real need to. As a 30 year HVAC tech/pipe fitter, I respectfully submit that as a 10 year industrial electrician your knowledge of pipe fitting practices may be somewhat more limited than mine. It may not. I'm not trying to start a ******* match, either.

Tommy

Sorry if I came off as confrontational. I just meant to say that my experience is why I always bend pipe instead of using fittings. Not to say anyone was wrong.

 

[NUTTSGT]

As far as the deburring goes, I used and old drill that was larger then my 1/2" pipe. Then I put a small chamfer on the outside to aid in starting the HF manual threader I used. I did that with a sanding flap wheel on my 4" grinder.

a post from my refurb thread.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2898389&postcount=1067

 

[sierradmax]

buy American or Canadian pipe. Not Chinese or pipe from India you buy at home depot.

 

[sberry]

I cut it on a saw, it really doesn't need inside ream much. Take an oversize drill bit and zing it a little. I usually rinse with a little brake clean and pull a brush with fish tape and blow down line before connecting equipment.
A lot of this pipe is bent, hydraulic lines all the time, lots of it on equipment, not so much in building. You want to be able to un thread it, with a bend it may need additional unions.
Most of thse small garage designs get real complicated. I can dam near not have to make a single thread to decvcent dimple designs. Use 10 ft pipe and ready made *******. Yes the box store stuff is cheap but that makes it easy to buy a few ******* too. Using all one size, 1/2 in these garages is sufficient then some. Makes it easy to add or reconfigure and you are not left with a box of fittings in 3 sizes you will never use. Can use one step reducing to 1/4 hoses.

 

[dr bob]

FWIW, I can easily weekend rent a good threader/stand-vise/deburr tool for a project like this, for less than the cost of a cheap threader. And way less aggravation.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Sorry if I came off as confrontational. I just meant to say that my experience is why I always bend pipe instead of using fittings. Not to say anyone was wrong.

No apologies needed. I didn't read it that way and I wasn't suggesting you were wrong either. Just posting my observations.

Tommy

 

[NUTTSGT]

FWIW, I can easily weekend rent a good threader/stand-vise/deburr tool for a project like this, for less than the cost of a cheap threader. And way less aggravation.

Yes, you might be able to but you have to return it on Monday. The cheap HF threader sits under my work bench and I can still use it. I didn't have to rush and get the project done in a weekend either.

 

[buzz4041]

I take mine to Home Depot and use their threading machine. They charged me a few bucks is all.

 

[ibedayank]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plumbing-Pi...189?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce90f003d


cut it... then thread it
bench vice with wood jaw inserts to hold it worked for me if little more grip needed wrap in chunk of innertube

 

[600SL]

Thanks for all the replies

I decided today I will rough cut all the pipe and paint it prior to installation. That will leave me with touch up painting after installation. I will cut with the chop saw and try a unibit for interior deburr. If that doesn't work I have a 1" drill bit that will fit in my chordless drill. All fittings were ordered from McMaster and say "Ward" on them. They are defiantly better quality than the stuff at HD. The pipe was ordered from the local plumbing supply and I hope its not the same Chinese stuff I have been finding at HD. I also will be using Mil-Spec Teflon tape from McMaster. I'm debating on the sealer. I have never had a leak with just Teflon tape.

The only bending I will be doing is the 1/2" drops that will each require and offset. I will also be installing a unions in each corner.

 

[Indyducati]

I may never plumb an air system with black iron. I still appreciate hearing from the experiences of two different guys, with two different techniques. All in a friendly manner.
Thanks !

 

[Richard Cranium]

I own a couple of different pipe threaders. But my local hardware store is so cheap, it wasn't worth my time. I took it all to them all ready cut to size. They reamed them and threaded them for .68 cents each. So for .75 cents including tax they did the hard and dirty work for me. Just another thought....Rich

 

[Hpozzuoli]

I cut a decent amount of black pipe every year. My personal approach is a good tripod, chain vise, and hand threader. I use all ridgid stuff because I got a good deal on a used lot. Use plenty of oil, and debur. I don't bend black pipe. Unions and elbows.

The only electric threader I would ever spend the money on would be a ridgid as well. Either hand held or floor model ridgid is the way to go, but very expensive. I know guys that tried the HF electric ones and continually snap the die heads off.

 

[600SL]

I may never plumb an air system with black iron. I still appreciate hearing from the experiences of two different guys, with two different techniques. All in a friendly manner.
Thanks !

See this thread

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275190

 

[plow]

You can't justify the price of Rigid equipment to run your air lines. Also, No de-burring is necessary. If it's tearing up threads you may have the dies out of order, or they are trash low end junk. Dies are ground as a set......at least the good ones are.

My suggestion would be to find a fire sprinkler company that has a guy that could do it after work or on the weekend for a few bucks (maybe visit a jobsite). He could install it as well if you didn't want to mess with it. They have all the stuff to do it on the truck.

 

[rburke65]

The local Home Depots in my area do not charge for cutting and threading of pipe if you purchase the pipe there.....just saying.

 

[olytdi]

I just ran a bunch of 3/4" black pipe for a gas line. I had the pipe salvaged from an upsize project after the earthquake in 2001.

I used the HF threader and it worked well and without problems. Threads weren't pristine but plenty serviceable. I found that keeping the pipe drenched with cutting oil every half turn or so and pulling out the steel cuttings as I went helped immensely. I cleaned each pipe afterward and deburred the inside with a small pipe deburring tool. Just touched-up the outer rim with a file or on the bench grinder prior to threading. I also blow out the section with compressed air prior to setting with pipe dope.

I also used my HF portable bandsaw to cut the pipe. I love that saw. Works wonderfully well and with a good blade, cuts through pipe and unistrut like butter.

Anyway, my 6" vise held all of the pipe well (my vise is not bench mounted so I can move it around along with its base) and it's slow going but I like being able to cut one piece of pipe at a time as I go.

I have some 1" pipe to run for a generator connection so we'll see how the 1" HF threader works on that size.

Would love a Rigid setup but honestly, I run pipe like once every 15 years....

 

[plow]

Perzactly

 

[justin1795]

Your long lengths will be already threaded. So all you need is your custom lengths. I would let the hardware store take care of it and buy about 5 of every size ******.

 

[theoldwizard1]

My personal approach is a good tripod, chain vise, and hand threader. I use all ridgid stuff because I got a good deal on a used lot. Use plenty of oil, and debur.

The couple of time I have looked for even a tripod on CL the people must have thought they were made out of GOLD !

 

[strutaeng]

Your long lengths will be already threaded. So all you need is your custom lengths. I would let the hardware store take care of it and buy about 5 of every size ******.

Black iron pipe comes in 10', 6', 5', 3'...18", 12", 10"...etc. down to close *******. All of these come threaded. No offence, but I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish by threading yourself. For the few custom lengths Lowes/Home Depots will gladly do for cheap or free if you buy the pipe there.

If I was installing gas to a whole house, then yes, a pipe threaded is a must...

Good luck.

 

[Jackfre]

Once you get started on this run a 6" factory ****** into your dies to get a good look at how deep length wise the threads should go. On my rigid dies I allow 1 full thread through the end of the die. Reaming on air is not that critical. You could do it with a die grinder but as pointed out you want to get all the shavings and debris out of the pipe prior to use. I have a telescoping magnet I run up the pipe. Good luck with it.

 

[sberry]

Blow a string down it or use a fish tape and pull a brush thru. I blow it out good before connecting tools to it.

 

[sberry]

Your long lengths will be already threaded. So all you need is your custom lengths. I would let the hardware store take care of it and buy about 5 of every size ******.

I end to agree. I mentioned a couple jobs we did recently and bought the pieces at the box store ready made, super easy. Lots of these home brew designs have way too many fittings, no wonder many of them leak.
A lot of them have great workmanship and pride but they get like the welding bench and miss the simple things that make it convenient and affordable. You should be able to plumb a common garage for 100$ in pipe.

 

[jgorm]

Why black iron? Seems like way more of a pain to use vs copper. I cut black iron with a band saw and it leaves it burr free.

 

[C96]

Lol, if I’m not mistaken, this job has been completed 4-5 days ago.

You guys needed to click on his “See this thread” back in post #25 to see the finished job, or the damn near finished job.

He did a very nice install I must say!

 

[600SL]

Black iron pipe comes in 10', 6', 5', 3'...18", 12", 10"...etc. down to close *******. All of these come threaded. No offence, but I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish by threading yourself. For the few custom lengths Lowes/Home Depots will gladly do for cheap or free if you buy the pipe there.

If I was installing gas to a whole house, then yes, a pipe threaded is a must...

Good luck.

I don't use stand offs from the walls. My pipe is flush mounted in vibration isolators, which means it has to be cut to within 1/4" and each piece custom fit one by one. Having it cut somewhere for free would mean bringing one pipe at a time each time I needed a thread. I also don't use couplers so having to thread an 18' long pipe requires a truck I do not own.

I also don't use HD pipe ******* or fittings because they really ****.

 

[600SL]

I end to agree. I mentioned a couple jobs we did recently and bought the pieces at the box store ready made, super easy. Lots of these home brew designs have way too many fittings, no wonder many of them leak.
A lot of them have great workmanship and pride but they get like the welding bench and miss the simple things that make it convenient and affordable. You should be able to plumb a common garage for 100$ in pipe.

3/4" pipe here is about $1.30 a foot. To do a perimeter of pipe around a 25' by 25' garage would cost about $130 just for the pipe assuming you used couplers and had no waist. But that doesn't include fittings or mounting hardware or any drops. Ok so if you did it in 1/2" for $1 a foot you can get the perimeter pipe for $105. That would give you 5 lengths of pipe lying on the ground.

 

[wosh]

Three videos on reaming pipe without a pipe reamer and a cheap pipe stand.