To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

MadeByMiller

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
1,230
Location
Rapid City, SD
Armour Detail Supply have been sharing my Instagram posts on their page. I guess they are still small enough to notice things like this, the larger companies basically ignore me because I'm not making reels or videos, or pushing a "personality" agenda like a lot of social media detailers do.

IMG-0858.png

IMG-0859.png
They shared my story too! It was just a few stories before yours when I was finally coating the wheels for our Expedition.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
So I've been looking more into ceramic coating for my 94 Miata, which is a single stage urethane paint. From what I understand the majority of ceramic coatings are formulated to bond with clear coat, so not everything would work perfectly to give me the protection I am after. Since the act of polishing is physically removing paint, I am wanting to protect the paint as best as I can as even though I pressure wash and two bucket the car before washing, it still gets micro marring.

So I was all set to move forward with Gtechniq C1 Crystal Laquer topped with EXO V5 as the reviews and the conversations with the Gtechniq reps I've had all point towards that offering great protection. Then I look up dealers and find a local detailer shop who is a dealer, and strike up a conversation with him. He suggested to just skip the C1 and just to EXO. But reading up on EXO, it doesn't seem to have been formulated to resist scratches or protect the paint, but rather to top other coatings for the hydrophobic effect.

All it took was one person's "opinion" to make me discount the advice I was given before, and changed my mind to just use EXO. I'm not sure why but coating the Miata fell to the back burner, but I just now started thinking about it again. All my research points me towards my original findings of C1 topped with EXO. Interesting that the local detailer skips the ceramic coating....hmmm.
1000007784.jpg

If the car is a garage queen or doesn't get left out in the weather, I would probably stick with a wax or sealant to be honest. Collinite 845 or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant would look fantastic on that red.

The thread below explains it further, which I'd say you have already discovered....................


Coating single stage paint is often not recommended as it can appear uneven and splotchy. You will have to check with CarPro on whether or not their coatings are recommended. Gtechniq often recommends their C1 coatings. Try it on a small spot first and see how it looks days later.

As for EXO v5, its still a ceramic coating, just not as ultimately durable as the base layer coating such as Crystal Serum Light, Crystal Serum Ultra or the ancient C1 Crystal Lacquer. The use of EXO was originally to solve the lack of slickness and hydrophobics from the base coatings, where they were designed for durability and chemical resistance over having that wax-like look and feel.
 

jonshonda

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2017
Messages
4,744
Location
Wisconsin
If the car is a garage queen or doesn't get left out in the weather, I would probably stick with a wax or sealant to be honest. Collinite 845 or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant would look fantastic on that red.

The thread below explains it further, which I'd say you have already discovered....................




As for EXO v5, its still a ceramic coating, just not as ultimately durable as the base layer coating such as Crystal Serum Light, Crystal Serum Ultra or the ancient C1 Crystal Lacquer. The use of EXO was originally to solve the lack of slickness and hydrophobics from the base coatings, where they were designed for durability and chemical resistance over having that wax-like look and feel.

I honestly wouldn't be opposed to a simple wax as it is a garage queen because while I choose not to drive it in the rain if I know it's coming, I don't get upset if it gets rained on. The micro marring from washing really bothers me and I'm guessing because it's in the physical paint vs a clear coat it might be much more apparent in the light? My thought is that the C1 would get me the protection I am after and the EXO would do a better job of keeping it cleaner for longer, and when a wash does occur would help to carry the dirt away before the wash mitt physically touches the paint.

Further down that thread I see mention of a polishing primer as a step before applying ceramic to avoid the uneven look. There is an unanswered question regarding Carpro Essence being considered appropriate. I know I've seen others talk about Carpro Essence as a really good product for single stage urethane. Do you have experience with it?
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
I honestly wouldn't be opposed to a simple wax as it is a garage queen because while I choose not to drive it in the rain if I know it's coming, I don't get upset if it gets rained on. The micro marring from washing really bothers me and I'm guessing because it's in the physical paint vs a clear coat it might be much more apparent in the light? My thought is that the C1 would get me the protection I am after and the EXO would do a better job of keeping it cleaner for longer, and when a wash does occur would help to carry the dirt away before the wash mitt physically touches the paint.

Further down that thread I see mention of a polishing primer as a step before applying ceramic to avoid the uneven look. There is an unanswered question regarding Carpro Essence being considered appropriate. I know I've seen others talk about Carpro Essence as a really good product for single stage urethane. Do you have experience with it?
I've used Essence a number of times, its super easy to work with, no dusting, butter smooth wipe off. It can actually be used and left as a standalone protectant, but most use it as to lay down a primer for a ceramic coating. I'm not sure how compatible it would be with the Gtechniq coatings though. Essence is also good for ultra soft paint.
 

jonshonda

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2017
Messages
4,744
Location
Wisconsin
I've used Essence a number of times, its super easy to work with, no dusting, butter smooth wipe off. It can actually be used and left as a standalone protectant, but most use it as to lay down a primer for a ceramic coating. I'm not sure how compatible it would be with the Gtechniq coatings though. Essence is also good for ultra soft paint.

Do you think Essence is the best finishing product for a single stage urethane? I currently use Megs 205 with a Orange County white pad as a final step. Also would like to know what you think a good micro towel for removing polishes and waxes would be for the single stage as well, if it matters.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
Do you think Essence is the best finishing product for a single stage urethane? I currently use Megs 205 with a Orange County white pad as a final step. Also would like to know what you think a good micro towel for removing polishes and waxes would be for the single stage as well, if it matters.
Essence is a milder abrasive and won't remove as much paint, which on softer paint is probably a good thing as it will finish out better. I'd also look at Carpro Reflect, this doesn't have the Si02 content of Essence, but is just as easy to work with in terms of smooth wipe off and no dusting.

For towels, look at the TRC Eagle 350 or Edgeless 365. For polishing, you really want a low-pile towel to cut through the polish residue more effectively. The Edgeless 365 caters to that. But on softer paints, you probably want some added plushness, which the Eagle 350 caters for. In both cases, you are probably going to stain these towels quite badly with single stage red.



I'd probably have a look at the below series of videos that deal with single stage red. This was on a 1980's BMW, so not soft Mazda paint, but it will give you an idea about dealing with product and paint residue in your pads and towels.

 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
A little promotion present to myself.................

IMG-0866.jpg

The new OG scents only went on sale last week, in time for their latest garage giveaway. Two are offered, Leather as well as Leather and Pine, both the signature scents used at his Destination OG property that showcases the OG experience. You know you are swimming in money when you can afford to buy a 2-million-dollar home and basically rent it to your fans.

https://www.obsessedgarage.com/pages/helen-reservation

Sadly, international orders don't qualify for the $80,000 USD garage giveaway. :groan

IMG-0869.jpg

Griots Fast Correcting Cream is apparently one of the easiest heavy cut compound to work with. As the name suggests, it corrects fast but will also finish acceptably well. Will I ever need to use it? Maybe, maybe not.

IMG-0872.jpg

The OG Tire Dressing Applicator brush is a collaboration between OG and Detail Factory. This takes the bristles from the Curveball, slims them down and melds it with a longer handle that has a rubberized grip with the OG logo.

IMG-0875.jpg

IMG-0881.jpg

I'm not totally sure this will be the magic solution to tyre dressing brushes, I'll see soon enough though. I think this and certain other new products from OG has more to do with wanting some product exclusivity. There have been many common detailing products that have gone viral because of his exposure and effort put into videos, only for other vendors to feed off that and take the lions share. Bead Maker, Koch Chemie GSF, EGO Blowers, Swisstrax flooring, pressure washer accessories, Kranzle...........................

Personally, I think it's taken him a long time to realize that. Naturally, some of those products existed prior to his involvement or endorsement. But who took them to the next level by spending thousands of dollars making videos (he has editors and camera operators on the payroll) and taken the financial risk by taking on a brand? I sort of feel sorry for him in that stuff that his was instrumental in creating, such as the now universal MTM SGS 28 short gun, were then hawked to everyone. Same happened with Active pressure washers.

He now has small line of OG-only products that give him exclusivity and the ability to choose who he wholesales them too. The Bilt Hamber lineup for the US market is one of the latest, but also includes his own version of the Kranzle (K1322), Mosmatic pressure washer accessories, the tyre brush and interior scents, Drying Aid and Tire Dressing, with a modular car washing specific water treatment solution on the way.

Anyway, just my two cents on a business I have no skin in.

Oh, and those OG hats are the most comfortable I have ever tried.
 

jonshonda

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2017
Messages
4,744
Location
Wisconsin
Essence is a milder abrasive and won't remove as much paint, which on softer paint is probably a good thing as it will finish out better. I'd also look at Carpro Reflect, this doesn't have the Si02 content of Essence, but is just as easy to work with in terms of smooth wipe off and no dusting.

For towels, look at the TRC Eagle 350 or Edgeless 365. For polishing, you really want a low-pile towel to cut through the polish residue more effectively. The Edgeless 365 caters to that. But on softer paints, you probably want some added plushness, which the Eagle 350 caters for. In both cases, you are probably going to stain these towels quite badly with single stage red.



I'd probably have a look at the below series of videos that deal with single stage red. This was on a 1980's BMW, so not soft Mazda paint, but it will give you an idea about dealing with product and paint residue in your pads and towels.



Many thanks for the time you took to find and link that info. Not many people still working with single stage urethane so it's hard to follow mainstream trends on certain products.

After reaching out to Gtechniq regarding blotching with the C1 on urethane and a priming coat, they did reply that they really aren't aware of blotching or unevenness and do not recommend any chemicals on the panels prior to application of C1. I think I am going to give it a go, and make sure I take my time with the application.

So I will go with Carpro reflect (Gtechniq did suggest RUPES Uno Pure Polish for my application), a finishing pad, Edgeless 365 to remove the polish. I will refer to your list (which I have made an excel spreadsheet from) of applicators and towels to apply/remove the C1 and EXO.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
When I did my wall-mount pressure washer last year, I made a number of selections with regard to fittings, hoses, reels, machine, wall colour..............right down to the mounting hardware finishes. However, the only thing I didn't really get to choose was the 3/8 quick disconnect fitting on the end of the hose. In that regard, I had to settle for the standard issue Chinese-made stainless steel MTM fitting that was part of the package.


Now, that fitting served its purpose, but felt somewhat lacking in finish quality, especially compared to the Mosmatic quick connect on my gun.

Shortly after the install, MTM released their new Prima line of USA made fittings. These looked much nicer, almost like the 1/4 Mosmatic used on the OG-spec gun.


IMG_9469.jpg

IMG_9478.jpg

While I liked how it looked and felt, the lack of knurling made it difficult to use when wet. I also found the Prima fitting did not function very well with the more precise Mosmatic plug fitting used on the inlet of the Mosmatic gun, it really needed to be forced closed, which is not how these fittings should be work.

So, I now arrive at the Swiss made T304 stainless steel Mosmatic 3/8 quick connect fitting.


IMG-0886.jpg

Below - Chinese made MTM on the left, USA made MTM Prima in the middle, Swiss made Mosmatic on the right.

IMG-0892.jpg

I was skeptical if I would feel the difference between the two cheaper alternatives and the Mosmatic at three times the price, but I get it now. The downward movement of the Mosmatic is noticeably crisper and smoother. And mated to the Mosmatic inlet plug, its just a more precise feeling item.

So why didn't I get this fitting from the beginning? Because that particular Mosmatic fitting is specific to and only sold by Obsessed Garage. None of the local companies are able to have access to this part. So, my choice was limited to the Chinese-made MTM, then the USA-made MTM Prima. If the Prima had worked with the Mosmatic inlet fitting, I would have stopped there. So, three fittings later, I'm finally content.

The next question would then be "why spend so much time, money and effort on a simple pressure washer fitting?". Because this is my hobby, what makes my world turn. I use my pressure washer a lot, and its something I enjoy using. It's therefore only natural for me to chase such perfection. Everyone has that hobby or interest in which they devote such obsession into. For me, that just happens to be cars and detailing.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
Another "weekend" off, another selection of products to work through.

Continuing the Armour Detail Supply theme of recent weeks, today I sampled their Tire Cleaner.

ARMOUR Detail Supply Tire Cleaner (detailingshed.com.au)
Armour Detail Supply Tyre Cleaner (autobuff.com.au)

The ADS Tire Cleaner was already out of stock at Detailing Shed when I placed my order. Needing to order something from AutoBuff, I added the RTU version to make up the shipping. This product comes in either a 473ml (16oz) RTU, or via a gallon of concentrate for dilution at the following ratios..............

Recommended Dilution Ratios For Concentrate(Dilute To Desired Strength):

1:1 - Extreme Duty Tire Cleaning (Proceed with Caution)

2:1 - Heavy Tire Cleaning, Engine Bay and Under Carriage Degreasing

4:1 - Maintenance Tire, Wheel, Engine Bay Cleaning, Wheel Well Cleaning, and Rubber/Plastic Matt Cleaning

Reading that, it seems this is a very potent product.

IMG-0912.jpg

Because of its high alkalinity and chemical make up, the RTU version of ADS Tire Cleaner comes in a different bottle to the rest of the line, being a solid black plastic rather than the domed transparent bottle. You will notice similar with other high alkaline products across the industry, think Carpro Multi-X and Lift, or Adam's Wheel & Tire Cleaner. First off, I like how this product foams up a little when sprayed. It then lathers nicely and had no issue stripping the dressing from the Ranger, the Jag's Dunlop's put up a fight, but that's normal for this tyre.

IMG-0914.jpg

Both the gallon of concentrate and RTU version are decent value, especially when considering a gallon could conceivably make up to 19-litres (5 gallon) of product at the 4:1 ratio, or about 11-litres (3 gallon) at 2:1. The same gallon quantity of Shine Supply Wise Guy would only make 7.6-litres (2 gallon) at the suggested 1:1 ratio. For further comparison, I would need to buy 5 gallon jugs of P&S Undressed to match quantity potential of the ADS product, which would work out to be $214.75 AUD compared to $112.95 AUD.

Moving along, I used ADS Hero to clean the rest of the Jag. I can safely say this is my favorite rinse-less wash now. It doesn't have the mixing quirks of Absolute, smells just as good and is even slicker under the towel as it passes across the paint. After the wash, I dried the car with the help of ADS Adapt.

IMG-0921.jpg

After attending to the glass, door jambs, engine bay and interior, I turned my attention to the tyres. These Dunlop Sport Maxx RT tyres seem to hang onto dressings, generally resisting tradition cleaning treatments. As such, I will occasionally break out the sledgehammer to reset them. This task can be done with mineral spirits, but Tarminator does the job better without drying out the rubber too much.

Stoner Tarminator Tar & Sap Remover 295ml (autobuff.com.au)

Speaking of Tarminator, its gotten harder to find this in Australia. Car Care Products advised me they would not be restocking it, and Detailing Shed have no intentions of bringing it into the store. It can be ordered from Amazon at considerable markup. Which leads me back to the AutoBuff order, they being the only Australian retailer selling Tarminator. AutoBuff actually offered me a discount on three bottles with cracked caps, which saved me some cash.

IMG-0923.jpg

I'm not sure how or why Tarminator excels as a tyre deep cleaner, but it does and the results speak for themselves. Never spray Tarminator onto the tyre, always into a throw-away towel. Rub the sidewall with firm pressure, reapplying more to the towel as needed. Allow to flash and the end result is a completely stripped sidewall.

IMG-0937.jpg

This is why you use a throw-away towel..........................

IMG-0932.jpg

Now that the tyres were bare, it was time to undo all that work by reapplying more dressing. :ROFLMAO: Today, I had a hankering for NV Onyx, a product that has been a favorite of mine from the moment I tried it many years ago. Applied with a brush, it spreads with such ease, accompanied by a delicious caramel scent. Onyx can be glossy but is best leveled down with a towel for a satin look.

IMG-0948.jpg

IMG-0944.jpg

It was then onto the Ranger, it being lent to a family member to move furniture last week. This gave me a chance to try another soap in the que, 3D Ultimate Wash.

3D GLW Series Ultimate Wash Shampoo pH Neutral (detailingshed.com.au)

IMG-0974.jpg

Ultimate Wash is pH neutral and shares a similar thick-ish consistency to their Pink Car Soap. Unlike Pink, this Ultimate Wash produces much thicker foam and a subdued orange/mandarin scent. I also found it has decent slickness and rinsed freely. However, this is not a WOW product, while nice in several areas, it hardly excels at any of them. Not bad, but not great. I also hate the pop-top caps 3D uses, too much resistance to release the product, then spits back at you when the cap is pushed closed.

IMG-0955.jpg

As always, the finishing touch to any detail, dressing the tyres. This time, I used my new Obsessed Garage Tire Dressing Applicator Brush.

Obsessed Garage Tire Dressing Brush

IMG-0881.jpg

IMG-0875.jpg

IMG-0960.jpg

The OG Tire Dressing Applicator brush is a collaboration between OG and Detail Factory. This takes the bristles from the Curveball, slims them down and melds with a longer handle that has a rubberized grip with the OG logo. On first impression, this brush follows Detail Factory form in that its extremely well made, superbly ergonomic and features lovely soft bristles. However, I did have reservations as to if this brush would function well for tyre dressing purposes. And that sort of proved correct...................

IMG-0965.jpg

IMG-0969.jpg

IMG-0973.jpg

The bristles are just too long, meaning they splay out too much when working the sidewall. On larger profile rubber like my Ranger, this isn't really a problem. But on low profile tyres, you would need to work slowly and carefully to not smudge dressing onto the wheel. The way around that would be to squeeze the bristles tight, which would then cover your fingers with dressing. I started using a brush over foam applicators for tyre dressing because its cleaner and negates the need to wear gloves. Well, this brush contradicts that. For cleaning wheels or interiors, this brush would excel, but for tyres its quite ill-suited. A puzzling conclusion to an OG product.
 

littlebean

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
770
ok, I've got a bone to pick with you........... I found myself actually cleaning the glass inside AND out at the weekend :ROFLMAO:
See what you've done, I used to be fine with 'chuck some soapy water over it and slosh it about a bit with whatever sponge was handy'
Now i'm looking for the right microfibre towel to get the best finish and investigating different products - I'm ruined I tell you

anyway, keep the updates coming, it might inspire me to try a clay bar (you do eat them right :unsure:)
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
Ok, go easy on me here, the following is my first attempts at capturing in car video.

Saying goodby to a car is never easy, I mean we would keep them all if space and funds permitted. However, the Mustang is going to be especially hard to let go of, even though it will be replaced by another one. No car has got under my skin like this one, it changed my life and became a beacon of happiness and exuberance.

So, as time with my S550 Mustang comes to an end, there are a few things that I want to do before it leaves. One of those will be to give it a final polish, another will be to author an "exit interview". I also want to capture some videos that I can look back on in the future. Apart from a couple of static sound clips, I have never done this before.

With a Cannon G7X MK III, a Rode external microphone and a window suction mount ready to go, I just needed to find some time and get on with it. The plan was to film some in car videos on a nice, quiet country road. The result was two 3 - 4-minute clips that sadly don't meet my standards. One of them I edited to salvage something from my efforts, but the image quality is not great.........................


Image quality aside, the video does show why I love this engine so much. For context, this car has a Borla Touring Cat-back exhaust with the Borla central resonator rather than a H-pipe. This means that in sedate driving, the engine and exhaust produce a subtle deep note, but open the throttle and it produces the sort of noise that gives me a smile from ear to ear. Every Single Time! Yes, the exhaust is loud, but not so loud that it overpowers the induction note. And it's that deeep bark when getting back on the gas after a gear change that makes me weak at the knees. Oh, and that zingy top-end.

I intend to persevere, hoping to improve the image quality, in particular image stabilization.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
Despite there being plenty to keep me busy in winter, a lack of customer flow does become a concern in terms of cash flow. When it's cold and overcast, I can hardly blame people for not wanting to buy stuff for their garden. This year though, I also think cost of living is at play at one end of the spectrum, and at the other, people are jetting off to somewhere warmer now that Covid restrictions are a thing of the past.

After today, I can safely say that spring is now on its way. The days are getting longer, the sunnier and warmer temps are bringing the customers out of the woodwork. Speaking of woodwork..............................

IMG-0993.jpg

IMG-0997.jpg

For now, I've finished the display boxes made from old pallets. Actually, someone wanted to buy one the other day, so I may end up having to build some more. At the moment, I've swung into making some custom sign holders. Again, re-claimed timber and some screws. To hold them upright, I've used some pvc electrical conduit I found out back, which then slots into a hole bored into the timber dividers used in our display tanks.

IMG-1004.jpg

IMG-0998.jpg

IMG-1006.jpg

As spring approaches, time is fast running out for these tasks. Spring is about selling, restocking, selling, restocking.......................
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
Well, I guess this was inevitable.....................

IMG-1008.jpg

IMG-1021.jpg

I looked at both GoPro and DJI, consensus on which is better seems divided. Between them, they each take points for doing things better than the other, in turn making it hard to land on a clear winner...........at least for me making my first foray into an action camera. GoPro have the brand recognition, long term product refinement and a huge customer base. DJI has certain features or design elements that are superior to GoPro, while also giving you more for your money.

After much deliberation, I landed on the GoPro Hero 12 Black with the Creator package. In addition to the camera itself, the kit includes Media Mod and Volta Hand Grip. And like any digital camera, you also need to purchase a micro-SD card.

The Media Mod is an external casing that includes an external light, additional/external microphone and mounting points for accessories. You can also disable that external mic and connect a better-quality item or even a LAV mic.

The Volta is a combined external battery/handgrip/tripod/ remote control. The added battery capacity is handy because it means you don't need to remove the Media Mod casing to charge the main battery. You can also mount the Volta to a larger tripod or other 1/4 thread mounts while keeping the remote function.

Yes, I did pay a premium for the "brand" name. However, I think it will suit my needs just a little better, while also being more novice friendly. Buying it in kit form did save me some cash compared to inevitably buying those additions later on. I now need to get a head mount of some kind.

Is this going to turn me into a YouTube powerhouse, absolutely not. But there is now no excuse for me to put video content into the too hard basket. Stay tuned.
 

Xti04

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
2,325
We purchased the DJI earlier this year for taking videos from our wake boat. I think its less about the camera amd more about the editing. I **** at both and honestly have little interest in filming or being filmed. My wife wanted the camera setup so now I get to experiment with camera angles trying to get good shots for her when she surfs. And while it is cool to see myself and what I am doing from a different angle, I have little desire to sit around and make montages of myself riding. To see all the people who spend countless hours filming and editing video to make appealing content is a daunting task to me. Need to order a suction cup mount so you can stick it to that new Mustang when it gets here!
 

shakenfake

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2023
Messages
609
Location
Shlumpt, TX
I am looking at getting one of those 360 cams on a stick. From what I have seen it also doubles as a regular camera you can stick on the door. Just haven’t justified it yet…
That GoPro looks awesome and I am very jealous.


Quick question, are you always using the foam cannon? I am in need of some new shampoo and I do not have a good foam cannon setup so I’d like something I can just use with two bucket until I can get my new gun and line etc. My heart tells me just use ONR but wanted to see if you have another idea.


The gun I have is too long to comfortably hookup the foam cannon too. Sits real awkward and this cheap *** hose *****.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
The Final Polish

This is something I have had on the list for a while now, one could say for about two years. As time with the Mustang runs out, now is the time to give it a final polish before it leaves the garage. Does it need to be polished? Probably not. Do I need to polish it? Absolutely. Why? Because it just feels right, my way of saying goodbye to a car that changed my life…………more on that at a later date.

In this case, we are not at all talking about a multi-step paint correction here, more so a gloss enhancement in preparation for the application of Can Coat EVO. I also won't be doing a multi-step decontamination process, it just doesn’t need it.

Prep –

The Mustang was washed last week before being put back under its cover. So, with the car already clean, I simply wiped the car down with a liberal amount of P&S panel prep, not the best of its kind, but I wanted to use this up. Applied heavy, I allowed each section a minute or two to dwell before wiping with a Platinum Pluffle towel. I then followed up with the stronger Gtechniq Panel Wipe, which was applied into the towel and not directly to the paint.

IMG-1025.jpg

From here, I then taped up the rubber and plastic trims with the red Carpro masking tape. Same for 5.0 badges.

IMG-1030.jpg

Polishing -

Polish of choice today was Carpro Essence. This is the perfect choice for a general enhancement polish, while also laying down a layer of Si02 for the Can Coat to bond to. Pad choice the new Rupes D-A Intermediate foam, the Rupes D-A Fine (iBrid Nano) and ShineMate Blue (Rupes 3-inch LHR75). For the S550, with the exception of the roof, each body panel needs to be split into different sections. This is due to the heavy contouring Ford went with, meaning you often need to use 3 and 5-inch machines, and occasionally the Nano too.

IMG-1040.jpg

IMG-1032.jpg

IMG-1035.jpg

Today was my first go at using the new Rupes HLR15 battery powered polisher.

Rupes HLR15 15mm Kit | Dual Action Cordless Polisher – Waxit Car Care

First impressions are of smoothness and refinement. Other than the air powered LHR75, this is the smoothest polisher I have used, possessing none of that grinding wind-down of my ShineMates. There were early complaints about the odd battery placement Rupes chose, but to me it seems totally natural as I've always supported a polisher from the battery with my left hand and guided the head with my right hand.

IMG-1048.jpg

A couple of things to note so far -

- Early reports of this machine seemed mixed, in particular being quite sensitive to pad choice and a tendency to "walk" aggressively. The consensus seems to be that they work best with the new thicker Rupes pads. This is likely due to the wafer-thin backing plate needing that extra cushion of the thicker pad.

- Used with the Rupes pad, I found the machine butter smooth and easy to control.

- To me, the speed control is backwards in direction, but the actual response is brilliant, offering more modulation than the ShineMate.

- The trigger lock is a mixed bag. Sometimes it snicks into place with a satisfying click. Other times it baulks and requires multiple stabs to get right. A typical Italian quirk.

A quick demo of the machine, my first using the GoPro. Initial movements are speedy to spread the polish, then slower to work the section.


Essence is a joy to work with, producing no dust and possessing a butter smooth wipe off. No, it doesn't have much corrective ability, but as I said earlier, I wasn't chasing defect removal. I did spot treat a couple of sections with firmer pressure on some very light scratches, which it removed easily. That's why I chose a firmer intermediate pad.

No editing with this picture, Race Red showing off its natural candy-like gloss.................

IMG-1054.jpg

With the tape removed and the trim wiped with Gyeon Prep, I left it at that for today. Technically, you can apply a coating within an hour of using Essence, but I prefer to leave it overnight. I will then give the car a very light wipe over with Prep and apply the coating in the morning.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
I am looking at getting one of those 360 cams on a stick. From what I have seen it also doubles as a regular camera you can stick on the door. Just haven’t justified it yet…
That GoPro looks awesome and I am very jealous.


Quick question, are you always using the foam cannon? I am in need of some new shampoo and I do not have a good foam cannon setup so I’d like something I can just use with two bucket until I can get my new gun and line etc. My heart tells me just use ONR but wanted to see if you have another idea.


The gun I have is too long to comfortably hookup the foam cannon too. Sits real awkward and this cheap *** hose *****.
If I'm using soap, I am always using a foam cannon and a single bucket. The foam cannon administers the soap to the entire car, which eliminates the need for a soap bucket and leaving just the rinse bucket. Any soap remaining in the foam cannon ends up being emptied into the rinse bucket. For me, I've landed on this method after trying them all.

As for a soap, most on the market will do both, as in bucket washing and foaming. There are exceptions to that, but those are the soaps I never recommend, I see no point in a soap that doesn't foam these days. For example, Auto Finesse sell a soap for bucket washing and a soap for foaming. Both are pH neutral, so the foaming soap will do absolutely nothing in terms of pre-cleaning, it's more about Auto Finesse wanting to sell you two soaps instead of one. So with that in mind, the following soaps will do bucket washing or foam cannon -

Adam's Car Shampoo (the blue one) or Mega Foam (the red one) - these are super affordable soaps that do just about everything. I favor Mega Foam as it foams just that bit better and the thinner consistency makes it easier to pour. For the price, these two are hard to go past.


IMG-5890.jpg

IMG-6474.jpg

Carpro Reset - this is the best soap on the market, which naturally comes at a higher price. Nothing cleans as well while remaining pH neutral, while also being the slickest. I also love the scent. Balancing the price, Reset is ultra concentrated.


IMG-1628.jpg

Shine Supply Shift - I'll admit that I'd use this for the coconut-lime scent alone, but it also foams and is super slick.


IMG-5621.jpg

For rinse-less, obviously I'm not using a foam cannon for that, but I do pre-spray with rinse-less prior to starting. If the car is dustier than I'm comfortable with, I will actually hose the car off before starting the rinse-less wash.

If you need help with a better foam cannon/gun/hose setup, reach out and I'll send you down the right path.
 

shakenfake

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2023
Messages
609
Location
Shlumpt, TX
I looked at the reset but the word "Reset" pushed me away. I wasn't sure if that was going to strip away all my coatings that I don't actually have right now lol
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
I looked at the reset but the word "Reset" pushed me away. I wasn't sure if that was going to strip away all my coatings that I don't actually have right now lol
That's a common theme I notice with Reset, most new to the brand think its a strip wash. While it seems to be more capable than other pH neutral soaps, it won't strip like a high or low pH soap would.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
The Final Polish - Part 2

With the hard work done, today was about getting the paint coated. In actual fact, the use of Essence alone would have left the paint protected with a layer of Si02, which Carpro suggests will last up to a year. However, I that would have been easy.

I tossed up between three last-step-products to use on the Mustang. A nice coat of Collinite 845 or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant would have left the paint richly saturated, ultra glossy and supremely slick. If I'd went that path, I would have used Carpro Reflect instead of Essence as I'm not sure Essence would be compatible with a wax or polymer sealant. And so, I arrived at Gyeon Can Coat EVO............................

IMG-1063.jpg

IMG-1066.jpg

Why put a ceramic coating on a car that I won't have for much longer? Firstly, I already had an open bottle of Can Coat that needed to be used up. It also gives me more experience with ceramics, something that I'm still not completely comfortable with. And thirdly..............because why not.

First port of call, a wipe down with Gyeon Prep, which would seem a wrong move after using a product like Essence. For the most part, if Essence is cycled long enough, you generally break down to polish oils sufficiently to negate the need for a panel prep. However, that is somewhat hard to gauge. So, as long as Essence has had an hour to cure, you are generally ok to use a panel prep, which in turn will remove any lingering oils. In my case, I lightly wiped down with Prep as a precautionary step and remove any dust that settled overnight.

I've documented applying Can Coat EVO before, and for the most part it goes down pretty easy. Working panel to panel, 2 to 3 sprays are added to a towel or microfiber applicator, more than that and you are wasting product. It's then worked over the panel, then buffed off with a separate towel. I actually use third towel for a final wipe. For the Mustang, I applied Can Coat EVO to the paint and black plastic trims. After an hour, I followed with Gyeon Cure.


IMG-1068.jpg

Cure is typically used to protect the coating from moisture and contaminants while it fully cures over following 14 days. Considering the car will sit in the garage indefinity, I could have skipped this step. But then the lack of slickness from Can Coat means using Cure addresses that.

IMG-1070.jpg

IMG-1071.jpg

And with that, the Mustang is polished and protected.

I touched on experience with ceramics earlier, well I'm still not comfortable with them. Sure, I can apply a ceramic coating, however I find myself second guessing every single moment in terms of flash times, when to buff off, did I accidentally smear coating onto an already coated section, did I leave a high spot, will it bond properly...................... and on and on. I realize all of that comes down to experience and confidence, but I never had these hang ups applying waxes and sealants.

This leaves me with a conundrum I have been contemplating for more than a year now. Ceramic coatings make future maintenance a breeze, being more tolerant of cleaning chemicals and better able to withstand contamination. But on a pampered garage queen, most of that doesn't apply, so in the end I'm left with the hydrophobic element...................which a wax or sealant can do anyway. Then factor in how a wax is slicker and easier to apply with none of the anxiety over flash times and high spots, I do believe my new Mustang WON'T be ceramic coated. Except for the wheels, which is a necessity in my opinion.

Still to do on the S550 Mustang, swapping back to the original PP wheels, removing the blue coil covers and take some additional videos.
 

SamYoung

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2020
Messages
104
Location
Massillon, Ohio
I feel like your thread is slowly turning into a detailing advice thread so figured I’d hop in. Got a new to me Golf Sportwagen with a Golf R leather interior (black). Leather looks great, but feels slightly stiff and is in need of a good cleaning and conditioning. I’ve been watching your cleaning regimen and was thinking of using KCx Pol Star to clean the interior/leather and Geist Leather Conditioner to condition the seats. I’ll probably do the Conditioner every 2-3 weeks for a few months and am hoping that they’ll soften back up. Do you have any better recommendation the seats? Any recommendation on brush/pad for leather cleaning?



Also, what type of APC and concentration do you like to use for engine bays? My engine bay has cosmoline sporadically throughout on the fenders/firewall/core support. Visually, I’d really like to remove it all which would really clean the bay up. I also know that the cosmoline will not come off easy and offers some potentially good protection for my Ohio winter driving. Google says its horrid to remove so I’ll probably leave it but am mildly concerned about disturbing/smearing it while doing a deep clean but without being able to remove it. Matte yellow on my white paint looks bad, but streaky yellow would be worse. Any experience with cosmoline in your detailing adventures? Advice? Current thought is potentially spray APC, let it soak, and pressure wash off those areas without agitation to avoid my concerns. I'll agitate the rest of the bay as needed.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
I feel like your thread is slowly turning into a detailing advice thread so figured I’d hop in. Got a new to me Golf Sportwagen with a Golf R leather interior (black). Leather looks great, but feels slightly stiff and is in need of a good cleaning and conditioning. I’ve been watching your cleaning regimen and was thinking of using KCx Pol Star to clean the interior/leather and Geist Leather Conditioner to condition the seats. I’ll probably do the Conditioner every 2-3 weeks for a few months and am hoping that they’ll soften back up. Do you have any better recommendation the seats? Any recommendation on brush/pad for leather cleaning?



Also, what type of APC and concentration do you like to use for engine bays? My engine bay has cosmoline sporadically throughout on the fenders/firewall/core support. Visually, I’d really like to remove it all which would really clean the bay up. I also know that the cosmoline will not come off easy and offers some potentially good protection for my Ohio winter driving. Google says its horrid to remove so I’ll probably leave it but am mildly concerned about disturbing/smearing it while doing a deep clean but without being able to remove it. Matte yellow on my white paint looks bad, but streaky yellow would be worse. Any experience with cosmoline in your detailing adventures? Advice? Current thought is potentially spray APC, let it soak, and pressure wash off those areas without agitation to avoid my concerns. I'll agitate the rest of the bay as needed.
You are on the right track with the leather care.

Pol Star is awesome, fantastic cleaning power but pH neutral so its relatively safe. I always wince at how some douse their interiors in alkaline APC and then wonder why things are starting to go white or discolored. I have Pol Star at a pretty potent 6:1 dilution, but you would get by with 10:1. Make sure you have a spray bottle to dilute it into, the Carpro Dilute makes it easy to get your dilutions accurate without having to make calculations (also linked below). If you want something RTU, then grab a bottle of P&S Xpress, its also pH neutral and just as effective. I like how both lather up nicely, which helps when wiping away the product/dirt emulsion.



For a leather cleaning brush, I think the ColourLock or Geist brushes are the ones you want, they are stiffer than you would expect but they were designed by leather cleaning experts. The alternative would be the VLB brush from The Rag Company.


ColourLock Brush -

IMG-2247.jpg

VLB -

IMG-4365.jpg

For a leather conditioner, the Geist version is a great option and seems to offer a little more hydration for older or "dry" leather. Don't rule out ColourLock Leather Protector either, I tend to prefer it. Remember....................clean and protected leather should always be matte and dry to touch, never slick, shiny or greasy. I'm pretty **** with that. I'd apply either product with a microfiber applicator, they work better than the foam sponges sold by either.



IMG-8327.jpg

IMG-2274.jpg

You'd probably need a good supply of towels, you will be surprised how many you burn through dealing with dirty leather. I like the TRC Car Wash Towels, but they only come in packs of 25 now, so the Edgeless 365 would be a good option.


As for cosmoline, I've never dealt with it sorry. I have heard and seen dry-ice cleaning to be extremely effective at removing it though, which you could look up someone in your area doing it. Dry-ice is still a pretty new concept, so may or may not find someone.

As for APC dilutions on engine bays, I'd start at 10:1.........................but that depends on the product, so always follow the directions, again I've seen people turn their engine bays white because they used straight APC instead of diluting it. I favor Koch Chemie Green Star.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
I love this guys content, not only for the detailing prowess but also for the beautifully shot and edited videos..............a man of many talents. In this case, he has simplified the new car protection and maintenance process for the weekend warrior.

 

MadeByMiller

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
1,230
Location
Rapid City, SD
I touched on experience with ceramics earlier, well I'm still not comfortable with them. Sure, I can apply a ceramic coating, however I find myself second guessing every single moment in terms of flash times, when to buff off, did I accidentally smear coating onto an already coated section, did I leave a high spot, will it bond properly...................... and on and on. I realize all of that comes down to experience and confidence, but I never had these hang ups applying waxes and sealants.

This leaves me with a conundrum I have been contemplating for more than a year now. Ceramic coatings make future maintenance a breeze, being more tolerant of cleaning chemicals and better able to withstand contamination. But on a pampered garage queen, most of that doesn't apply, so in the end I'm left with the hydrophobic element...................which a wax or sealant can do anyway. Then factor in how a wax is slicker and easier to apply with none of the anxiety over flash times and high spots, I do believe my new Mustang WON'T be ceramic coated. Except for the wheels, which is a necessity in my opinion.
Just wanted to chime in and thank you for sharing this wisdom in your thought process. It's refreshing to read that evaluation, that more is not always more in terms of product and technology - subjectivity over a one-size solution. Very much enjoying all of your posts as always!
 

Tommo3

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
101
Location
Blackfen, Kent UK
What? Well, I certainly hope so. :oops:
Only aware of Ernesto because Sawdust Steve is holidaying in Antigua and then I saw your post! Almost certain any damage would buff out. Still you know what they say "Worse things happen at sea" ......but hopefully not!
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
Two plants that caught my eye on the way out the door for another week..............

Magnolia doltsopa x laevifolia or Magnolia 'Inspiration' - this is a small evergreen tree that has become quite popular over the last two years, most likely the result of "peak Magnolia Little Gem syndrome". As always, a plant or product becomes so popular that it becomes over planted and customers then look for something new or different.

IMG-1086.jpg

Both Little Gem and Inspiration grow to similar height and spreads, 4 meters tall and 2 meters wide, making them ideal for smaller gardens or as a small feature tree. They can also be used for informal screening and hedges. Inspiration differs in having a more open canopy and smaller, more fragrant white flowers that appear in late winter to early spring. Unlike other Magnolia daltsopa varieties, Inspiration seems faster growing and more tolerant of frost. We often buy Inspiration in 200mm pots for both sale and as potting stock, whereby they are planted into 330mm pots and grown into advanced specimens, a product line that is doing very well. The above example goes further, being potted into a large 100 Lt bag, ideal for someone wanting an instant effect.

Narcissus jonquilla or Jonquil 'Erlicheer' - from what I can gather, these are a love or hate plant.................all stemming from the scent. I personally love the sweet scent, but I can fully understand why many don't, the fragrance is certainly heady.

IMG-1081.jpg

A perennial bulb, Jonquil's are often the first bulbs to flower in late winter. There are single flowering varieties, but the double flowered 'Erlicheer' are more substantial looking. You will often see these plants flowering in older gardens, often located under trees.

Fun Fact - the name "Narcissus" has multiple references.

- "Derived from the Greek word narke, which means numbness in English. The name is then in reference to the intoxicating fragrance of some species."

-"Some believe that the name narcissus is derived from the Greek word 'narkao' which means 'to be numb' due to daffodil bulbs being poisonous to animals."

- "Narcissus is a boy's name of Greek origin, meaning “daffodil.” Its origins lie in Greek mythology, where Narcissus was a young hunter known for his exceptional beauty. "

The meaning behind Latin plant names has always intrigued me, in fact it something that was part of my initial training way back in the mid 2000's. For the most part, this aspect of horticulture is pretty useless these days............at a retail level anyway. Still, there is a lot to learn in these Latin names as it will often describe a growing habit, flower type or honor a notable individual.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
Paying good money for a supposedly premium products but getting cheap garbage in return.

Noise cancelling headphones, a great way for me shut out and escape from the world while detailing or messing around in the garage. Twice now I have sidestepped the cheap stuff, thinking paying the extra would land me with a quality product.

The first being a set of Sennheiser SPXC 550-II. When they worked, they were very nice, comfortable. But they began cycling on and off if, you know, moved you head at all. The magnet-controlled power up/down switch not sufficiently strong enough to stay in the on position. Completely useless within a very unreasonable period of time. Total garbage.

The second I bought to replace the Sennheisers, the Sony WH-1000xm4. Initially, they were fantastic, even more comfortable. But the stupid touch pads were schizophrenic, so you would end up turning certain functions on and off accidentally, then have to go and figure out how to reset them. The "speak to talk" function a completely useless thing that would activate by ambient noise like, say, a pressure washer. Now they refuse to charge, even after attempting the hack fixes found online. Complete junk after only a couple of years. Again, bought at considerable expense.

Makes me so friggen mad, you pay a premium and get nothing in return. And yet, we keeping buying this sh.t and therefore keep these companies alive, who then keep selling cheap, nasty Chinese **** at premium prices.

So, Sony and Sennheiser can go and get fu.ked.
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
2012 Honda Civic VTI-L Detail

This Honda was recently bought by my boss for his newly licensed son. The young lad is nowhere close to being interested in cars, so his only two requirements for his first car were it had to be white and had to be an automatic. The father on the other hand wanted to spend as little as possible, it taking a while to realise that a clean, roadworthy small first car doesn’t exist at $5000 like it would have when he was a boy.

A stream of possibilities were considered. Several of the previous-gen Ford Focus’s were put under my nose for opinion, but in no way would I recommend buying a Powershift Focus and that the low asking prices reflected that. Same for the Holden Cruze, yeah run don’t walk. There were of coarse high-milage Toyota Corolla’s doing the rounds, naturally carrying high Toyota tax. In the end, this relatively low km Honda Civic hatch surfaced at the local Ford dealer. With only 112,000 km (70,000 miles) on the clock, the car was owned by the proverbial little old lady and overall looked very tidy. Initially disliking the “bucket seats” as being uncomfortable, I showed him the lumbar adjustment that was pumped all the way forward, and once wound back, he gave it the tick of approval and bought the car on the spot. Hardly an exciting first car, but that’s what he wanted, a car is merely a way of going from A to B to most of that generation. What a contrast to me at that age!

IMG-1094.jpg

IMG-1097.jpg

IMG-1100.jpg

As mentioned, this car is relatively clean and tidy, save for a couple of marks on the rear bumper, curbed wheels (please explain to me why older females always have a habit of curbing wheels?), a collection of stone chips and the usual wear and tear on the interior. And while it was clearly detailed prior to hitting the forecourt, my job today was to take it to the next level. I dare say some of the things I did today were the first for the car.

IMG-1087.jpg

IMG-1089.jpg

IMG-1092.jpg

Wheels & Tyres –

Despite not often using them on my own cars, there is a reason why I keep a product like NV Purge in the cabinet. I’ve tried a few similar products, but I keep coming back to Purge for its superior performance and lower stench factor. Tyre cleaner of choice being Wise Guy. Due to the buildup on the barrels, I applied the chemicals to dry wheels and allowed them to soak for a few minutes. I then rinsed, which removed the bulk of the build up with ease, then went back in with another hit with the chemicals and agitation. You'll notice these brand-new tyres didn't have any brown blooming.

IMG-1104.jpg

IMG-1105.jpg

IMG-1109.jpg

IMG-1110.jpg

The barrels were putrid! For wheels like this, I keep a selection of older wheel brushes so that I don't ruin my good stuff. For heavily contaminated wheels, I've found my old Wheel Woolies cut through brake dust better than microfiber.

IMG-1116.jpg

I also decided to try Carpro TriX, which is a combined tar and iron remover, in an attempt to remove what looked like tar deposits. Turned out those spots were pitting in the wheel finish. At least I tried.

IMG-1119.jpg

IMG-1117.jpg

Decontamination and Washing –

Because I wasn’t going to polish or ceramic coat the vehicle, getting the paint contaminant free will maximize what I put on the car in terms of protection. Clean, uncontaminated and smooth paint will always look better, no matter what ends up being applied.

Starting off the exterior wash, I applied Gyeon Iron to the whole car from dry. This would be the strongest display of iron contamination I have come across, the white paint clearly highlighting the reaction of the chemical. Again, the car would likely have never seen such a chemical in its 12 years on the road.

IMG-1124.jpg

IMG-1125.jpg

IMG-1126.jpg

IMG-1127.jpg

Some question the importance of using an iron remover, stating that a clay bar is more effective. Well, imagine trying to mow through that with a clay bar, and the additional marring it would bring to the table.

As always, I follow the iron remover with a high-pH soap to continue the reaction and attack dirt and oily contamination. This was my first use of Armour Detail Supply Decon Soap, which foams nice and thick and has a long dwell time.

ARMOUR Detail Supply Decon Soap High pH Pre wash stage (detailingshed.com.au)
Decon Soap – Armour Detail Supply

IMG-1133.jpg

IMG-1139.jpg

IMG-1140.jpg

After another dwell period, the iron remover/soap residue was rinsed thoroughly from the car. I then foamed with Carpro Descale and commenced the contact wash. The Descale helps remove any embedded mineral content.

The multi-step decon process helps reduce the amount of contamination I need to plough through with clay media. In this case, I used a Waxit Clay mitt and a cocktail of left-over quick detailers for lubricant. This allowed me to say goodbye (and good riddance) to Stjarnagloss Silke and Gtechniq Quick Detailer, both ok but not stellar products. I also laid into the remainder of my supply or Megs Last Touch. This took the nearly smooth paint and glass to fully smooth. I then went around and spot treated any remaining stubborn tar deposits with KCx TEA.

IMG-1145.jpg

Further Exterior Details –

After the final rinse, the whole car sprayed down with Carpro Hydr02 Lite, wheels included. I then moved into the garage and dried using the EGO and a large drying towel. Door jambs wiped down with DIY Waterless Wash.

Noticing some decent water-spots on the glass, I bit the bullet and gave all of the exterior glass a quick hand polish using P&S Clarity Creme.

IMG-1148.jpg

With the residue removed and wiped down with ADS Panel Prep, I then decided to use up a product that has since been discontinued, NV Glass Lite. This product is very similar to Gyeon Quick View, just without the novel squeeze applicator. I get the feeling NV nixed this product due to having issues with it destroying spray heads, in my case I had to use a pipet to dispense it.

IMG-1154.jpg

Once Glass Lite was applied, I left it to cure while taking care of the next step. To remove the residue, use a damp towel, then follow with some glass cleaner to leave a streak free finish.

After spot treating a couple of love marks here and there using Rupes DA fine on a microfiber towel, it was time to add something to the paint. For the Civic, I chose Armour Detail Supply Ceramic Spray Sealant.

ARMOUR Detail Supply Ceramic Spray Sealant 6 months Durability (detailingshed.com.au)
Ceramic Spray Sealant – Armour Detail Supply

I’ve had this product sitting on the shelf for a few weeks now waiting for a suitable candidate to use it on, the Civic being an obvious test subject. ADS Ceramic Spray Sealant has a claimed durability of up to 6-months, which sounds pretty good for such a simple application.

IMG-1157.jpg

This would have to be one of the quickest and easiest ceramic spray sealants I have used so far, sitting right alongside the brilliant KCx S0.02. No streaking, you could almost get away using a single towel to apply it. I would say S0.02 is slicker, but this ADS product is not far behind. Another winner from ADS.

Interior Detailing –

The interior wasn't too bad, just needing a little finessing. First off, I vacuumed the whole car. The floor mats were remarkably clean, I still hit them with the Tornador to loosen up embedded sand, sprayed with a small amount of KCx Pol Star, agitated with a carpet brush, then using the turbo attachment on the vacuum to finish them off.

I then grabbed Griot's Interior Cleaner and a scrub pad to treat a few isolated areas like the door sills, pedals and the gear level that was covered in makeup residue. A small stain on the rear seat was treated with Pol Star, agitated then vacuumed to remove the residue. To finish off, I wiped everything down with P&S Swift.

The steering wheel was pretty nasty, far too shiny and slick. Whenever you see a glossy leather steering wheel, that's a very strong indicator of how mucky the surface is. After unsuccessfully attempting to clean it with the Griots, it was ColourLock Strong Leather Cleaner to rescue, the best on the market. Once quick pass with the ColourLock brush and the steering wheel was back to a natural matte finish. ColourLock Leather Shield was then used to lock in that newly clean finish.

IMG-1164.jpg

Finishing off the interior, I cleaned the glass using P&S True Vue and spritzed the carpet mats with Angelwax Eden.

Final Touches –

For the tyres, today I decided to use Carpro Darkside, which should last a bit longer for him than a water-based dressing like Onyx or Perl. Darkside does need some additional work time to apply, it being quite sticky and reluctant to spread evenly. It also needs a final wipe after 15 minutes to avoid sling. The result is a deep, dark finish that should last for a month.

IMG-1169.jpg

IMG-1176.jpg

This particular Civic also has unpainted black wheel arch trims, which I decided to dress with Mothers Back to Black in aerosol form. I also treated the large plastic windshield trim that cuts into the bonnet.

The final exterior step, a quick wipe down with ADS Amplify.

IMG-1168.jpg

Final Result -

Ready for its return.....................

IMG-1181.jpg

IMG-1189.jpg

IMG-1178.jpg

IMG-1191.jpg

Upon arrival, the smile on the boy's face said it all! :D

The young lad in question actually does some weekend work with us at the nursery. I can see a lot of character traits that we share in common; somewhat shy and socially awkward, liking routine and order, very procedural. Also like me, I have seen him become more confident, if still a little unsure of himself. He is dreaming big too, next year he will be off to study medicine. His first car will take him a long way and I'm glad to have been part of that journey.

Fun Fact - my mother's first car was a Honda Civic, the original generation. Hers was relatively new at the time, in the same baby blue pictured below. She famously reversed it into my grandparent's garden tap and caused quite the stir. :lol

ogcivic.jpg
 

littlebean

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
770
great (and informative) write up as always!
my first car was a '72 baja beetle, current ride an '06 ford focus while i look for the unicorn of a solid, fairly priced mid '60s beetle :LOL:
 
OP
D

D.F.B

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,586
Location
Australia
great (and informative) write up as always!
my first car was a '72 baja beetle, current ride an '06 ford focus while i look for the unicorn of a solid, fairly priced mid '60s beetle :LOL:
My first car was a November 2001 build AU III Fairmont sedan. This at the end of December 2004, so the car was 3 years old and had 54,000 km on the clock. Fairly sure it was bought by an older guy to tow a caravan, the heavy duty tow bar and scraped rear mudflaps the clue.

AU_2.jpg

AU-29.jpg

AU-19.jpg

AU-30.jpg

AU-37.jpg

The best part of the car was the lovely steering, full of feel and perfectly weighted, teamed with the excellent Momo steering wheel. The gearbox was a bit clunky on the 3rd to 2nd downshift, I suspect the result of all that heavy towing. The engine was super smooth down low, but really struggled above 4000 rpm, long stroke and only 2 valves per cylinder the cause. Build quality was excellent, better than the BA Falcon that came after it, material quality in particular, the plush carpet specifically. And despite only 4 gears and a large 4.0-liter capacity, the highway fuel common was remarkable excellent.

As an 18-year old boy, driving around in a grandpa spec burgundy (Barossa Red) Fairmont meant I flew under the radar. Compared to most of my friends with their blaring exhausts, gigantic wheels and slammed stance, the cops left me along lol! Anything I changed on the car were factory parts; Tickford wheels, Momo steering wheel and shifter, factory spoiler, Fairlane chrome exhaust tip, Fairlane woodgrain trim around the gear selector.

AU_10.jpg

AU_60.jpg

AU_49.jpg

AU_11.jpg

I put 30,000 km on it over four years, selling it in early 2008 to make way for my brand-new FG Falcon XR6, which I still have.

IMG-E4938.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom