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Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

shakenfake

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Apr 16, 2023
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609
Location
Shlumpt, TX
In regards to BT headphones. I have a pair of Sennheisers that are really nice and do not have the same issues you do, don't remember which model they were.
Honestly I just use AirPods. I have an older Gen 2 pair that I have been using for four years now with no complaints. I plan on buying some of the Gen 2 Pros eventually but I haven't needed to yet
 
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Geoff289

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Nov 10, 2013
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Melbourne, Australia
I am a big wrap for Sennheiser headphones. I've had a corded pair for decades that, apart from the vinyl padding disintegrating, are still going strong.

I don't use them much anymore as I sprung for a wireless pair a few years ago that I've been very happy with. I had to search extensively to get some that weren't bluetooth but an actual radio signal. Virtually all on the market are either BT or infra-red, the former having limited range and the latter being pretty much limited to line of sight.

With the wireless Sennheisers I have, I can use them all over the house with the sender attached to the stereo gear in the main living area, including in the garage and even mow the lawn while using them.
 

shakenfake

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Shlumpt, TX
I've owned four pairs of Sennheisers now. Three wired and one wireless. No complaints except one of the wired ones has a strange buzzing in the left ear but I believe it is cable related. I have just been too lazy to change cables since I don't use it that much.
 

MadeByMiller

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Dec 29, 2018
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1,230
Location
Rapid City, SD
Really enjoyed seeing your transformation and reading about your detailing philosophy on the Honda - great job! It was very informative to watch you tackle a "normal" used car and bring it up several notches.

Thank you for recommending Chromatic Garage, I've been enjoying his videos since your recommendation. The cinematography is just so much more than a YouTube video deserves - I love it!
 
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D.F.B

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Australia
Really enjoyed seeing your transformation and reading about your detailing philosophy on the Honda - great job! It was very informative to watch you tackle a "normal" used car and bring it up several notches.

Thank you for recommending Chromatic Garage, I've been enjoying his videos since your recommendation. The cinematography is just so much more than a YouTube video deserves - I love it!
For Chromatic, I get the feeling that detailing, while clearly a passion, is more so subject matter for making videos. The same applies to CC Detailing.

 
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D.F.B

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2012 Honda Civic VTI-L Detail

This Honda was recently bought by my boss for his newly licensed son. The young lad is nowhere close to being interested in cars, so his only two requirements for his first car were it had to be white and had to be an automatic. The father on the other hand wanted to spend as little as possible, it taking a while to realise that a clean, roadworthy small first car doesn’t exist at $5000 like it would have when he was a boy.

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Upon arrival, the smile on the boy's face said it all! :D

The young lad in question actually does some weekend work with us at the nursery. I can see a lot of character traits that we share in common; somewhat shy and socially awkward, liking routine and order, very procedural. Also like me, I have seen him become more confident, if still a little unsure of himself. He is dreaming big too, next year he will be off to study medicine. His first car will take him a long way and I'm glad to have been part of that journey.
Apparently, the young lad had his father drive him to school on Tuesday because it was raining and he didn't want to get the car dirty. :ROFLMAO:

So proud! :D
 
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D.F.B

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After leaving it for a bit longer than ideal, I mowed the back lawn this afternoon. Because the grass was tall and thick, it was a job for one of the two strokes.

My first choice was the Commando, but she was being cranky today. These Victa's either start on the first pull, or take multiple attempts at priming, choking, full throttle, back to choke, more priming, more choking...................you get the picture. In the end, I dumped more fuel in the tank, removed the fuel line from the primer cap to ensure it was flowing, then primmed the sh.t out of it before it finally fired.

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This particular machine I have been having speed control issues with, as in over revving. Today, the extra engine speed came in handy for slashing through the thick grass. Well, halfway through, she decided to have another tantrum and wouldn't rev out, like it wasn't getting enough fuel. In the end I gave up in frustration and put it away to diagnose another day............I was tired and grumpy.

So, it was out with the Mustang instead. I haven't used this one for a while, so it too didn't want to fire up either, no doubt from stale fuel. Again, I ended up dumping fresh fuel in the tank, primed the sh.t out of it until it finally fired in a cloud of blue two stoke smoke. The Mustang powered through the remainder of the job.

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When these engines are running, they just knuckle down and power through just about anything. But they are also cranky diva's that require patience and a delft touch. I don't rely on the two strokes for money making purposes, but I do keep them in the fleet for sh.ts and giggles.
 
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D.F.B

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Of the countless products and brands that I cycle through, the biggest compliment I can give a brand or product is if I go to buy it again...................

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I know Armour Detail Supply is the current buzz brand, but there is genuine reason for that hype. There is not a dud in line, but there are products I'm using more than others. Pilot won me over the second I opened the bottle, and Amplify is simply brilliant, no if's, buts or maybes!

The wheel coating is for the new Mustang. I'm still wondering if I go wax or a coating with the S650, but I've now crossed out Gyeon Mohs EVO and have ADS Quartz in my sights.

Also included in this order were three MTM weighted filters for the PF22.2 foam cannons. These were introduced on the updated PF22.2 and are now available for retrofitting existing foam cannons. I have been running one of my PF22.2's with a Kwazar weighted filter and it has really improved the functionality of the foam cannon, especially when approaching the last 100ml of liquid. No reason why these MTM filters couldn't be adapted to other brand foam cannons. For $6.00, its a now brainer.



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cccoltsicehockey

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Apr 3, 2014
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Charlotte, NC
My first experience with a weighted pickup filter was with my new Griots foam canon to upgrade from my cheap Chemical Guys one I had picked up years ago on prime day. They really do make a big difference when you get to the end. Nice upgrade for sure.
 
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D.F.B

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The end of winter, and the moment I dread every year.....................potting.

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I will say, now that I basically take charge of this task, I have implemented several changes to reduce the burden on both me and other staff. Simple changes that reduce fatigue on the body, reduce time wasting and improve overall organization. Does that sound like me?

For example, potting was always left to the very very last minute, then it was a mad rush to power through it, all with the increased customer flow brought on by Spring. Now, I start potting selectively mid-season, getting through surplus stock that reduces the load later on in the season. Most of that is stock that was always intended to be potted rather than sold bare root.

I also INSIST every batch (usually 5 to 10 trees, or per pallet) is stock balanced and converted to a potted barcode price immediately. Previously, it was always such a rush to just get them potted, then deal with the prices later. This then required a staff member (me) having to trapse through pallets of trees hunched over attaching prices to the bags in the days/weeks ahead. Doing it as we go, it also means I can sell the tree straight away if needed, no fumbling around for a price because "they have just been potted". This might sound like a trivial thing, but trust me, it was a nightmare that ended up being more time consuming than it should be.

Again, the rush to get everything in a pot meant we would go through and water everything at the end of the day. When you have something like 500 trees to thoroughly soak in less than an hour, well, it led to a half-ars.d job. Now, every pallet is soaked as we go, nothing missed, everything soaked properly to eliminate air pockets.

Speaking of pallets, this was never a thing. Trees would be potted and then dumped in lines of genus/species on the loading dock, something that would end up being a crazy maze of trees. They would then be loaded onto a single pallet and wheeled into the nursery on a manual pallet jack. So, you would end up triple handling every single potted tree.

Previously, we would load up a tandem trailer with potting mix to work from on the loading dock. For me, this created two problems. It meant having tow and maneuver the trailer, something I struggle with. Actually, I have since learnt how to maneuver a trailer very well with one of the Dingo's. Secondly, the height of the trailer meant having to be hunched over for hours on end, I think a lot of my back issues stem from this. Now, I load up the old Nissan Navara which is used solely for this task or ground maintenance. It's also a tipper, which makes it very valuable assest. The height of the tray is at the perfect height, meaning I don't end up folded in half at the end of the day.

When the potting is all finished, it then needs to make its way into the nursery for sale. Having everything on a pallet in genus/species order, means it can be fed into stock with less fuss.

It took me 20 years to make those changes as a whole, it can be very hard to change the mindset of guys who have been doing it twice as long as you. At the end of the day, they are no longer "hands on", so doing things their way at my expense makes no sense just because "that's how we've always done it". And yet, those changes make a big difference in how things function, no more "just winging it"............which I truly detest!

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Most of it is now done, progress came to a halt after running out of potting mix this afternoon. Still to go are the fruit trees, which go into the same sized bag as the ornamentals, then the larger weeping trees which go into larger 75 LT bags............the ones I dread.
 
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D.F.B

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Kylie Minogue + Red Dress + Red Mustang.................the things dreams are made of..................

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With thanks to the wonderful Kylie for posing in front of my Red Blooded Woman!

Just a teaser to something I'm working on at the moment. With special thanks to KB from Mustang6g, a true gentleman. Check out his beautiful GT500 here -

 
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D.F.B

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Pieris Japonica, another one of those plants that sits in the background for most of the year before bursting into prominence in late winter. This variety is most likely 'Temple Bells', which features pure white booms instead of the pink that characterizes other Pieris. Growing to 1.5 meters tall and 1.5 meters tall, it will take decades to reach those figures.

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Pieris are best grown in part to full shade, morning sun at the most as they will otherwise burn in the summer sun. As part of the Ericaceae family, they share genes with Azalea's, Rhododendrons, Erica's, Blueberries and Epacris, therefore preferring slightly acidic soil. After flowering, feed with a Camellia and Azalea blend in spring, keep moist over summer.
 
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D.F.B

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Wow, two weeks without a detailing update.............probably indicative of my headspace at the moment. It's head down, bum up with work in the lead up to spring. Grass is growing again, and the bare root stock is being potted as customer flow increases. So, more hours and more tasks that put strain on the body.

So, it's safe to say I earnt a couple of days off..............and a sleep in. :sleep: I try to plan days off that mean I don't have to be anywhere other than home. Today was one of those.

First up, fitting weighted filters to my foam cannons. These filters come as standard on all new MTM PF22.2's, however they are now available to retrofit existing foam cannons. I decided to also swap out the original filler tubes which had become hard over time. The benefit of these is not really for filtration, rather they allow the foam cannon to continue syphoning soap right down to empty.


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After some general tinkering, a joyous thing to do when time is on your side, I got stuck into washing the Ranger. Soap of choice today was Opti-Coat M-Wash, which I used on the wheels and paint. Drying Aid the delightful ADS Amplify. Glass was via P&S Tru Vue, interior wiped down with Ethos Interior Detailer, scent via Angelwax Bliss. I then wiped the wheels down with Amplify and dressed the tyres with Swissvax Pneu.


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After getting rained on while I was working on the Ranger, I then directed attention to the Jaaaaaaaag! To start, I rinsed with the pressure washer before moving into the garage and put the door down, the wind has been crazy over the last week, especially last night with 100+ kph gusts. I decided to give Gyeon Eco Wash another try, which I initially found a little wanting.

From my initial review -

I found Eco Wash needed a little more towel work to fully dry than the ONR I used last week, which could have been the Gyeon Ceramic Detailer, a product I have struggled with in the past. The chilly winter morning didn't help either.

In today's conditions, while not especially pleasant, the warmer temps helped in regard to how Eco Wash dried at the end of the wash. I also did not use a drying aid, instead I added more 256:1 bucket solution into my iK to dampen a large Gauntlet drying towel, I also sprayed more onto areas that had already started to dry. Dampening the towel helped it to better absorb the residue, which I followed with a secondary dry towel to finish off. While I still prefer ADS Hero, Eco Wash found redemption today.

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After a quick interior wipe down with ADS Pilot, I dressed the tyres with NV Onyx and called it good.
 
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D.F.B

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I'm a list maker and set routine type of guy, but sometimes there are exceptions. I typically work on Sundays, it's just easier to work through and take Monday or Tuesday off. But my sister came home today, which I actually accounted for last week to allow me to take a rare Sunday off.

After an overpriced and disappointing brunch, the only redeeming factor being the coffee, it was down to business.................

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This poor thing hadn't been washed since I last touched it back in March. My sisters reckoning being that no one should touch it but me, which I sort of agree with.

The XC60 just had its first service this past Monday, and I've got to say, I don't know why I complain about a $500 oil change on the Mustang. The first service cost them over $900, they also wanted to put on new wiper blades. They called to talk about "something extremely important on her car" and that the wipers needed to be replaced because apparently "they were causing smears". My sister might be blond, but she is no pushover. Her reckoning? Well, she insisted they DO NOT wash the car, and because it was so dirty, of ****** course the wipers smeared! They then wanted to talk her into a service plan. And dealers wonder where their sketchy reputations come from. I'm so proud she stood up to them, in fact, they probably didn't know what they were in for. Don't mess with Miss. HLB! :ROFLMAO:

Anyway, the task at hand. When she told me it was pretty bad, I didn't expect it to be THIS bad. But hey, that's why I have cabinets full of detailing products, right?

First port of call, a pre-treatment with NV Purge onto dry wheels, shortly after these shots, I foamed Bilt Hamber Touch-less over the top of Purge and into the wheel arches. All four wheels were treated at the same time, the idea being to remove as much of the filth prior to contact.

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After soaking, I thoroughly rinsed the wheels and went ahead with the contact washing using ADS Tire Cleaner and P&S Brake Buster from my foam cannon. After finishing each wheel, I applied Hydr02 Lite and some Atom Mac for the rotors.

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The body had plenty of road grime, tar streaks, bugs and some unknown oily deposits. Bilt Hamber Touch-less to the rescue! Safe to say, this stuff is such a brilliant pre-cleaning solution for heavily soiled vehicles, in turn meaning you don't have to plough through so much during the contact wash.

After a thorough rinse, which stripped away most of the contamination, I spot treated a couple of stubborn tar deposits, allowed them to soak briefly before rinsing, no agitation required! This is where coatings have an advantage. The contact wash followed using ADS Shampoo+. The coating also makes the rinse process so much quicker. (Hood open because I also rinsed it down)

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During the wash, I noticed the glass sealant was toast, so I quickly went around with a clay mitt and some Megs Last Touch. This should help the fresh application bond properly.

Running tandem EGO blowers, we had the car mostly dry in no time. We then went around and applied a fresh coat of Carpro Reload. While my sister dried the door jambs with ADS Adapt (I hate doing door jambs), I wiped the glass down with ADS Panel Prep and then applied a new coating of Gyeon Quick View. Then while my sister vacuumed (I also hate vacuuming, so a win win for me ;)), I wiped off the Quick View residue with a damp towel, then followed with Invisible Glass for a streak free finish.

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I then relented and gave my sister a hand with the interior, wiping down with Griot's Interior Cleaner, chosen for its lack of scent. Can someone explain why I can't use a scented interior product on this car, so that I don't ruin that new-car scent that it still has, but my sister is absolutely fine to enter the cabin wearing copious amounts of perfume? I don't get it. :conf

We then directed attention to the leather, which involved a light cleaning with ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner on the front seats and steering wheel, and a quick wipe with the Griot's on the rear seats which don't get much use. I then applied another layer of ColourLock Leather Shield, which is a dye transfer and abrasion blocker used during the first three years of its life.

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Finishing the interior, I wiped the screens with a damp towel, then pressure rinsed the rubber floor mats before an application of Koch Chemie Guf. Finishing off the exterior, I wiped down/dried the engine bay, wiped down the wheels with ADS Adapt, then applied ADS Tire+ to the Pirelli's.

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One of my top tyre dressings at the moment, its just so nice to use and delivers such a nice consistent finish. Pictured above after a knock back wipe.

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Refreshed and ready for another few months on the road.
 
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D.F.B

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Wheely good idea?

When I did the new wheels for the Mustang a few years ago, I got my hands on a wheel stand to make the process a little easier.

Maxshine Wheel Stand for wheel Coating - Detailing Shed
Maxshine Wheel Rim Detailing Rolling Wheel Stand (WS01) -23"L x 14"W x 36"H - 360° Tire & Rim Detailing, Ceramic Coating, Tire Shine Application, Car Wheel Wash, Wheel Detailing & Roller Stand - Red : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement

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Allowing me to wheels-off wash, polish and ceramic coat, I've found this to a wise investment. My initial uses were from the back of my Ranger, a perfect height and an expansive surrounding work surface. But this was not always a practical solution as it takes more room the garage and doesn't really suit decon washing, ie making something clean (the wheels) while making something dirty (the tray). As such, I've been using a folding trestle table.

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Problem with that has been the lack of stability, especially on the Swisstrax, to the point where I had to put old towels under each leg to prevent the whole thing from sliding around.................not ideal.

I've been looking for something ever since, today I finally pulled the pin on this....................

Ryobi Folding Table with Two Clamps - Bunnings Australia
Folding Work Table | RYOBI

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I've seen mobile detailers using tables like these, this is the Ryobi version of the near identical unit sold under the Keter brand.............for half the price!

Keter Folding Compact Workbench Work Table with Clamps, 21.7 x 33.5 x 29.75-Inches, Black : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement

The attraction here is the quick and easy way it opens out and folds away. Being plastic, it can also be used safely with a variety of cleaning chemicals.


This table will also come in handy for cleaning carpet mats.
 
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D.F.B

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Wash day for the Mustang and Ranger, made even better by the lovely spring sunshine............not too hot, not too cold. :cool:

Drying Aid of choice for both was ADS Amplify. I also used it on the engine bays, door jambs and wheels. In any application, it's stupid easy to use, requiring surprisingly little towel work to deliver a streak free finish. Simply put, I can't get enough of this stuff!

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D.F.B

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Looking at the original owner's manual, this mower was bought on the 16th of December 2002 and was given to me as a birthday present on the 28th of December. Not many teenage boys want a lawn mower for their 14th birthday, but I did!

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I used this mower to launch my business mowing lawns on weekends. You can see the wear marks on the Victa lettering on the deck, made from folding the thing up and being loaded into the back of my fathers EB II Falcon GLi wagon. At one point, I was also putting it into the back of my Fairmont sedan, something I shudder to think about today.

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When I left high school and was studying part time, I landed a job mowing lawns for one of the richest families in Australia. I remember being asked by the guy what lawn mower I had, I was so embarrassed to say that it was just a small push mower, expecting this to be a deal breaker. Turns out the last guy (crew) had a large rider mower that just made a mess, and that the small mower would suit them better. And so, that small, somewhat underpowered little Victa got put to work maintaining three quite properties with oversized nature strips.

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This machine was retired from regular use in 2005 after ramping up my business. I needed something with more power and a wider cut to improve my efficiency. Instead of trading it, for some reason I decided to keep it as a backup. In fact, I grabbed it quite often, its light weight always came in handy.

As the years went on, it's become a sentimental keepsake, it made me a power of money and represents how driven I was at that age. No contractor would choose something so small and underpowered, but I made the most of what I had and let my work ethic and finished results speak for themselves.

The poor engine is pretty worn out though now, blowing a light haze of oil smoke. I remember the day I wounded it, the last job of a very long day, tired and wanting to just do this job and go home. The grass at this property was longer than expected, tall and thick Kikuyu is a beast to bring under control. I only had the little Victa with me that day so just pushed on with it. I pushed a bit harder than the engine could be expected to handle considering its age, laboring it too much. It was never the same again.

Considering how much work this machine has done, its been pretty reliable. Other than blades, air filters, spark plugs and oil changes, it's needed the following -

- The front deck baffle came adrift on the job. It was straightened out and re-rivetted back in place.

- A front axle circlip also disappeared mid job, I ended up using a small piece of wire to reattach the axle and get me back in action. Only in recent years did I put a proper axle clip back on, along with a set of new plastic bushings locator clips.

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- Replacement carb diaphragm. I only did this last year, it was still running with the 2002 original but was stuttering as it struggled for enough fuel. I also replaced the governor springs too.

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I say all that because I have just pulled the pin on a set of piston rings, a gasket kit and piston ring compressor. I know that no many would bother doing this on a basic throw-away engine, but as I said, there is sentimental value at play here.

I last did something like this when I was 12 years old, my father and I stripped and rebuilt the same 3.5 hp Briggs on the old Morrison. So, I have a basic concept for what I'm in for, but not from recent memory. For the Sprint 375, it won't be a full rebuild. I plan to remove the sump plate and cylinder head, lift out the cam out, disconnect the conrod cap and push the piston out through the cylinder. I'll then clean the piston, cylinder head and valves, clean the gasket surfaces before replacing the rings and putting it back together with new gaskets.

I have a couple of question marks though. I don't think I will need to hone the (alloy) bore. It's not like the engine has ever starved for oil, from what I can gather the oil burning is simply from wearing out those rings. Secondly, I don't think it will need a valve job, the engine runs just fine, but I would then need lapping tools and compound, probably feeler gauges. Thirdly, should I sand/machine the cylinder head to ensure flatness, or just wing it.

Anyway, this should be a nice little project to do while I'm on long service leave.
 
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D.F.B

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I'm often bemused by customers who come in with absolutely no idea what they want or have done 0% research before coming into the store. For stuff that I don't know much about, I'm one of those who will spend time researching a purchase before entering a store, that way I'm not flying blind. And in most cases, I will already know what I want or have a shortlist of what I want. That way, I'm not wasting time or wasting the time of the business, just in and out.

Thinking back, that mower was the beginnings of my strong inclination for knowing EXACTLY what I wanted. I rode my bike all over town looking at mowers, so when it was time to buy, it was a just matter of which store would sell me the mower I wanted.

At the time, there were 4 different Victa dealers in town, only one remains today. I remember walking into one of the stores and was greeted by the arrogant owner, who has only recently retired. That first encounter put me off him and his business ever since. Despite having the machine I wanted, he was trying to upsell me on a Yard Man with the 158cc Quattro 40 engine.

(Still have the brochures from back then)

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He was probably right to do that seeing as it was going to be used for semi-contractor use. But NO NO NO! My sentiment at the time was like, don't tell me what to buy, I know exactly what I want. I think that sort of stuck, mowers or otherwise. I remember a Honda salesman insisting I needed the mulch kit on my purchase, again, NO I don't!

For some reason, I wanted the Sprint 375 engine, perhaps because it was the modern version of the 3.5 hp engine on the old Morrison. But, as I said, once I have my mind set on something, I generally go with that instinct.

Again, I have the period brochure, I remember being annoyed that they wrote on my shiny brochure. The only difference with mine and the one pictured is the wheels, the dealer that ultimately sold it to me put double ball bearing wheels on all of his stock.

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In hindsight, I probably should have bought one with a bigger engine, but I wanted what I wanted. In defense, it's not the size of the tool that counts, its how you use it. At age 16, I had plenty of energy to walk a bit longer or push through heavy growth. Now? I need all the help I can get, so its big engines and self-propel all the way.
 
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D.F.B

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Paying good money for a supposedly premium products but getting cheap garbage in return.

Noise cancelling headphones, a great way for me shut out and escape from the world while detailing or messing around in the garage. Twice now I have sidestepped the cheap stuff, thinking paying the extra would land me with a quality product.

The first being a set of Sennheiser SPXC 550-II. When they worked, they were very nice, comfortable. But they began cycling on and off if, you know, moved you head at all. The magnet-controlled power up/down switch not sufficiently strong enough to stay in the on position. Completely useless within a very unreasonable period of time. Total garbage.

The second I bought to replace the Sennheisers, the Sony WH-1000xm4. Initially, they were fantastic, even more comfortable. But the stupid touch pads were schizophrenic, so you would end up turning certain functions on and off accidentally, then have to go and figure out how to reset them. The "speak to talk" function a completely useless thing that would activate by ambient noise like, say, a pressure washer. Now they refuse to charge, even after attempting the hack fixes found online. Complete junk after only a couple of years. Again, bought at considerable expense.

Makes me so friggen mad, you pay a premium and get nothing in return. And yet, we keeping buying this sh.t and therefore keep these companies alive, who then keep selling cheap, nasty Chinese **** at premium prices.

So, Sony and Sennheiser can go and get fu.ked.
I'll probably regret this purchase too but let's see how long these last...........

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One thing I noticed straightaway, these Air Pod Max are significantly heavier than the Sony and Sennheiser they replace, with the casing made of aluminum not plastic.

Why Sky Blue? Well, other than I like blue, they were 21% cheaper than Space Grey or Silver.

And if these don't go the distance, I'll shoot a video of me smashing them with a sledge axe. Question is, should I do that with the Sony's?
 
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littlebean

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Mar 7, 2018
Messages
752
quick (hopefully) query - we're struggling to get any meaningful foam, using Chemical Guys Honeydew currently from a Bosch pressure washer like below:

pressure.png
any tips on what we could be doing wrong cause we don't get anything like the pic and certainly nowhere near (although I don't expect to) what you get - not me in the pic just an internet image grab :D
 

customh

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562
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East Bethel, MN
quick (hopefully) query - we're struggling to get any meaningful foam, using Chemical Guys Honeydew currently from a Bosch pressure washer like below:

pressure.png
any tips on what we could be doing wrong cause we don't get anything like the pic and certainly nowhere near (although I don't expect to) what you get - not me in the pic just an internet image grab :D

The foam blaster/"Cannon" is likely your issue. I went back to reference @D.F.B postings on the autogeek forums to see what he started with, but looks like those are dust in the wind now.

The MTM PF22.2 is the standard of foam cannons. With that said many people use inexpensive ones from Amazon with great results.


You'll have to either get an adapter for your gun/lance or upgrade your hose, gun, and lance. Obsessed Garage has done testing at length for foam cannon orifice size and nozzle orifice size to get optimal performance out of pressure washers with varying pressure/flow- I don't know what machine in the US that those Bosch Pressure Washers are similar to.
 
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D.F.B

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quick (hopefully) query - we're struggling to get any meaningful foam, using Chemical Guys Honeydew currently from a Bosch pressure washer like below:

pressure.png
any tips on what we could be doing wrong cause we don't get anything like the pic and certainly nowhere near (although I don't expect to) what you get - not me in the pic just an internet image grab :D

Are you using the pictured foam cannon? If so, speaking from experience they are pretty useless. Pretty much any aftermarket foam cannon will produce thick foam, just depends on how much you want to sink into it.

The two benchmarks are the MTM PF22.2 and the Griot's Boss Foam Cannon. Just don't fall into the MJJC trap, they are ok but don't have HDPE plastic canisters so won't last as long. If you go the MTM, just make sure its the updated version with the wide-mouth bottle.

(I believe you are in the UK, so hopefully these links are appropriate)


IMG-0023.jpg

You will need an adaptor to connect the foam cannon to the OE gun. I'm not sure which you would need, seems Bosch have two systems in use, I think it would be the one on the right below, just compare to what you have.


2bosch.jpg

I would however strongly suggest changing the gun while you are at it, this then allows you to use standard 1/4 quick connects for both nozzles, wands and foam cannons. For arguments sake, lets say you order the PF22.2 and SGS28 kit.


You would then need an adaptor to fit the Bosch hose. Then an M22 to 3/8 adaptor.


Sorry about the mess of links, its sort of hard doing that in another country.
 
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D.F.B

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The foam blaster/"Cannon" is likely your issue. I went back to reference @D.F.B postings on the autogeek forums to see what he started with, but looks like those are dust in the wind now.
I've been lost without it! I emailed them and this was the response -

"We should have it back up shortly, we ran into some software issues and need to do a full update and migrate the forum into a new software due to unsupported software that is no longer available."

I see that the forum is partially loading now, but I don't think they have fully migrated member accounts yet.
 

SamYoung

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Massillon, Ohio
I will third that the foam cannon is likely the issue. Chemical Guys Honeydew in my MTM PF22.2 fed by a cheap Sun Joe pressure washer is my default wash setup and I have no issues getting thick foam.
 
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D.F.B

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The Jaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag's turn today................

Wheels and paint washed with the transcendent Carpro Reset. I cycle through so many soaps that when I return to Reset, its always an aahaa moment because it reminds me of how ****** good it is. Makes me wonder why I bother trying anything else. Drying aid today was Megs HCD, used across paint, glass and wheels. They tyres were dressed with Opti-Coat Tire Gel, glass with old faithful Stoner Invisible Glass.

Today's Armour Detail Supply indulgence was Pilot interior detailer. Both Pilot and Amplify are my favorites from the brand, both for their ease of use, delightful scent and finished result.



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You know, there is an element of "product fatigue" that comes into the equation when trying so many different products. But its those moments when I discover a true gem, and each subsequent use, that keeps me going. Everything from ADS is consistently brilliant, but the standouts manage to rise to the surface, the Tire Dressing, Pilot, Adapt Amplify and the High Temp Wheel Coating are the must-haves from the range.

Thinking back, there have been a select few that instantly clicked with me, none from a single brand though. I know it might be a pretty mundane product category, but P&S Xpress was one of those, it's so perfectly balanced at its job. Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer came to me with no expectations but ended up being a surprise winner for its ease of use and finished result. Adam's Graphene Tire Dressing I tried as a novelty but ended up falling in love with it. Koch Chemie S0.02 I expected to be similar to Reload and other ceramic spray sealants, but its so easy to work with that you don't even have to be paying attention. P&S Clarity Creme makes glass polishing easy, a product that flies under the radar.

The question is, which will be the next winner product or brand?
 
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D.F.B

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Today I managed to get the Mustang out for some filming. Some of the videos won't be for public viewing, especially the otherwise perfect video ruined by me fluffing the 2nd to 3rd upshift and getting 5th instead, rookie! Or the first video that had me full-on ABS panic braking as a dog wandered into the middle of the road. :oops:

For the most part, these videos are to have something to look back on, a reminder of what I loved about this car. These are two that I'm content with, I still have a long way to go in developing even modest videography skills. Video is extremely time consuming, in addition to the above dog and fluffed shift, I was contending with road debris, traffic, even a white heron loitering at corner exit.............see if you can pick it.



Just another boxed ticked as I farewell this car.
 
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D.F.B

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After yesterday's thrashing, it was only natural that a wash would follow for the Mustang....................

Can Coat EVO topped with ADS Amplify................

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Wheels and tyres washed with Brake Buster, paint with the remainder of a bottle of ADS Shampoo+. Drying Aid ADS Amplify, interior via ADS Pilot and the tyres dressed with OG TD.

For the Ranger this week, I washed the wheels with P&S Frostbite, which I also used as a pre-soap for the paint. Safe to say that Frostbite is a HIGH foaming soap!

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For the contact wash, I recommenced my trial of "wash & coat" soaps, this time Shine Supply Shine Soap. This is a pH neutral formula that is said to work "perfectly with any wax, sealant or coating." Like most of these soaps, this is not a high foaming product.



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I've come to the conclusion that these soaps are not for me, Shine Soap included. While they certainly add some slickness to the equation, they lack the foaming ability that I prefer and have a strange feeling underneath the wash media. Shine Soap also seemed to alter the underlying coating more than the others, and scent wise, it smells the same as P&S Inspiration Radiance.

Of the collection of these soaps I bought to trial, I have yet to try Gyeon Bathe+, its convoluted and time-consuming suggested application method does not appeal. Of the ones I have used, I much preferred the Ethos version as it foamed properly and felt the nicest to work with. Carpro Hydr02 Foam seemed to have the most potency. Inspiration Radiance produced the most visible difference.

While I can see these soaps have a purpose, they are targeted at a very specific user who just wants some beading and gloss without having to apply a ceramic coating, wax or sealant. For me, what they bring to the table does not out way their lack of foaming ability, lower cleaning potential, so-so slickness or weird scents. Full comparison on its way.
 
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D.F.B

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Hey where do you get that red nozzle on the hyperwash? I'm guessing you can adjust the flow with it?

The spouts are from Griots, they fit pretty much all of the gallon size bottles. They won't fit the Carpro, Koch Chemie and Gyeon 4-liter bottles though. With any of these, you tip the bottle up and place the spout into the bottle you are filling, then twist the cap to dispense.

Griots -

Carpro and Koch Chemie -

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D.F.B

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Mazda CX-3 Detail

Purchased new in August last year, this Mazda CX-3 G20 Pure arrived first up this morning for a refresh.

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Overall, the car presented pretty well, better than I was expecting to be honest.

Starting with the wheels, I went around and applied NV Purge to each wheel from dry and allowed to react. While the wheels soaked, I opened the hood and removed any leaf litter before a quick pressure rinse.

Returning to the wheels, iron contamination was minimal and the majority of the brake dust was removed after a rinse. I then scrubbed the tyres with Wise Guy, twice actually due to the profuse browning. I then foamed with Brake Buster for a contact wash of the wheels and wheel arches. An application of Hydr02 Lite followed.

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After the wheels, I turned my attention to the paint. I was actually going to skip this step, but considering the car is parked outdoors around train and tram lines, the use of an iron remover was probably warranted. A dark colour like this Machine Grey Metallic hides the reaction, but it was certainly happening.

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The next step was the pre-wash, this time Bilt Hamber Touch-less that was foamed over the Gyeon Iron remover. This was allowed to soak while I emptied my wheel bucket and rinsed out my tools.

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From here, a thorough rinse followed. Mazda's are terrible in regard to trapping anything and everything in the roof gutter trims, so plenty of time is needed to blast them out, and when you think you've got it all, out pops more.

For the contact wash I selected Obsessed Garage Decon Soap. Because the heavy lifting was done with Touch-less, the slightly milder pH 10 of Decon Soap easily dealt with what remained, delivering a squeaky-clean surface. With the washing complete, I then applied Hydr02 Lite to the completely flat paint.

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Moving into the garage, after blowing the car down I discovered an alarming array of isolated scratches, water spot etchings and paint chips spread across the vehicle. The paint chips no doubt from the ultra-thin paint Mazda uses. Two spots on the hood had a crisscross pattern of scratches that looked as if someone had dry-wiped a bird bomb. For a car only 12-months old, it could easily have passed for 5-years old! Most of it would be the result of improper washing at a car wash. This is why you should never buy a dark colored car if you have no interest in proper washing technique, just pick silver, white or any light colour.

I ended up spot polishing the two sections on the hood using the iBrid Nano, Rupes yellow foam and Rupes DA Fine. That took the edge off them, but they still remained. Knowing how soft and thin Mazda paint is, I didn't want to chase them any further. I then wiped down the sections I polished with ADS Panel Prep, then went around the entire car applying ADS Ceramic Spray Sealant.

The interior wasn't too bad, just need some finessing. The door jambs were wiped down with ONR, I then removed all the mats, blew them out with the Tornador before vacuuming and setting them aside. Next, I used the vacuum in one hand and the Tornador in the other, blasting debris straight up and into the vac from areas like the cup holders, seat rails, vents, steering wheel boss, gauge cluster and seat seams. I then hit the driver's side sill and footwell with Griots Interior Cleaner, followed by wiping everything else down with P&S Swift. After attending to a couple of stains on the seats with KCx Pol Star, I cleaned the glass using P&S True Vue. The leather steering wheel I used the Carpro Cleanse and Lotion duo. A spritz of Angelwax Bliss and the interior was done.

Returning to the exterior, I decided to try Carpro ClarifyPhobic, which is a combined glass cleaner/sealant. I have previously dismissed this product, it clearly didn't play well with my usual choice of Gyeon Quick View. Here, it worked much better on virgin glass.

IMG-1397.jpg

The tyres were then dressed with Carpro Darkside, and the whole car wiped down with ADS Amplify. I even polished the exhaust tips, nothing worse than the look of a clean car being let down by neglected tips. I've always hated the Mazda exhaust tip design, a chrome sleeve pressed onto a steel pipe. While it looks ok early on, you end up two rates of degradation as the steel inner pipe ends up staining and rusting while the chrome outer will still look ok. From what I can see, there is no practical benefit to this design.

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Final result, ready for collection.

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D.F.B

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Got the XR8 off the charger and out onto the road this morning..................

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You know how it is, a quiet empty road and a rush of blood.....................🏁

First, a test of the rudimentary launch control function. While the I6T engines had what Ford called "Launch Assist" from the start of the FG series, it was only available on vehicles with a manual transmission and was basically a 3500 rev-limiter, so it had no control over wheel spin.

Screenshot-258.png

The FGX XR8 on the other hand used a "Launch Control" setup that was available on manual and automatic transmissions. I earlier said rudimentary because, unlike modern selectable launch control systems, the XR8 uses the DSC to control wheelspin. For the manual, the system limits engine speed to 3250rpm and then controls wheel slip using the traction control. On autos, the driver simply mashes the throttle rapidly, the system then limits torque in first gear and, again, uses traction control to reduce wheel spin.

Screenshot-257.png

However, because the DSC and TC systems are on by default each time the car is started, that means the launch control is always active unless the DSC turned off. Turn it off and, well, you are on your own................. 🏁

(Image used for demo purposes, not of this morning)

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I've never done this on tarmac with the XR8 before, so I thought why not today! DSC turned off, a boot full of throttle and the rears lit up with ease, smoke billowing from the arches and two thick black lines displayed in my rear vision mirror. Couldn't help but be stunned at how easy the car did it. Of course, the factory original Dunlop Sport Maxx's from 2014 would have played a part there. But just think of it this way, for a car that cost me $60,000 (AUD) back in 2014, what brand new 500hp RWD car could you buy on the market today that would be capable of such antics, done with such ease? At that price, yeah, none!

After my stress relief drive of the XR8, it was time to clean the Ranger. The windshield, and no doubt the paint as well, was covered in tiny droplets of sap. Not that I park directly under trees, but with the high winds lately, it must have been carrying sap off a close by Corymbia Maculata.

I didn't really want to do a full wash, so I started by pressure rinsing the car, which removed the sap and a layer of dust. I then moved into the garage and did a rinse-less using DIY Detail Rinse-less Wash, teamed with DIY Ceramic Gloss as the drying aid.

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I can safely say that the DIY rinse-less has the highest cleaning ability of my collection of these products. It easily dissolved that yellow insect poop that is often extremely difficult to remove, even with a pressure washer. With a 256:1 pre-soak, the DIY quickly broke it down................impressive.

Once dried, I went over the tray and door jambs with ECH20, glass with KCx Speed Glass Cleaner, interior wiped down with ADS Pilot, the tyres given a light application of DIY Tire Dressing.

Job done...............just in time for it to rain tomorrow. :cautious:
 

ajohno

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Finally caught up on your busy thread.
How do you find the IK sprayer? I was looking at one for use on the rims - tyres. But have seen mixed reviews.
 
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D.F.B

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Finally caught up on your busy thread.
How do you find the IK sprayer? I was looking at one for use on the rims - tyres. But have seen mixed reviews.
I'm not a fan of pump-action sprayer and foamers, mainly because their output is never consistent, something may or not bug you as much as it does for me. For that reason, I just use a foam cannon to clean wheels.

P&S Brake Buster, MTM foam cannon.

IMG-3399.jpg

IMG-3401.jpg

However, the pump action sprayers have their place. I use a Marolex for Shine Supply Wise Guy, it destroys trigger action spray heads far too quickly, so the pump action eliminates that problem. Marolex do a sprayer (black) and foamer (blue).



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I only use the iK sprayer for rinse-less washing or when claying. The iK versions have a superior form factor, the plunger design is more ergonomic and handle allows it to hang off the bucket easier.



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IMG-7374.jpg

If you have access to an air compressor or inflator, iK fit a schrader valve to the Foam Pro 2+, which would mostly eliminate pumping. There will also be battery powered versions that will arrive at years end.

 
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D.F.B

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After leaving it for a bit longer than ideal, I mowed the back lawn this afternoon. Because the grass was tall and thick, it was a job for one of the two strokes.

My first choice was the Commando, but she was being cranky today. These Victa's either start on the first pull, or take multiple attempts at priming, choking, full throttle, back to choke, more priming, more choking...................you get the picture. In the end, I dumped more fuel in the tank, removed the fuel line from the primer cap to ensure it was flowing, then primmed the sh.t out of it before it finally fired.

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This particular machine I have been having speed control issues with, as in over revving. Today, the extra engine speed came in handy for slashing through the thick grass. Well, halfway through, she decided to have another tantrum and wouldn't rev out, like it wasn't getting enough fuel. In the end I gave up in frustration and put it away to diagnose another day............I was tired and grumpy.

So, it was out with the Mustang instead. I haven't used this one for a while, so it too didn't want to fire up either, no doubt from stale fuel. Again, I ended up dumping fresh fuel in the tank, primed the sh.t out of it until it finally fired in a cloud of blue two stoke smoke. The Mustang powered through the remainder of the job.

dec61e.jpg

When these engines are running, they just knuckle down and power through just about anything. But they are also cranky diva's that require patience and a delft touch. I don't rely on the two strokes for money making purposes, but I do keep them in the fleet for sh.ts and giggles.

Still trying to get this thing running properly again.

Suspecting an air leak and a lack of fuel flow, I removed the cowling to get access to the tank and carb. I popped the diaphragm cap off and found it was not evenly seated. I reseated the diaphragm, thinking that well could have been why it was choking at full throttle.

I then replaced the fuel tap as I felt the old one wasn't allowing enough flow. After that, I made sure the intake tube was properly seated on the carb, I even got to use my fancy Knipex curved pliers for the first time!

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After 3 presses of the primer, the old girl fired on one pull..............highly unusual for this engine. Initially, it was revving up and holding steady, I even got it to idle properly, something this engine has always struggled with. Great! I fixed it! I let it idle for a few minutes, then decided to give it a run over the front lawns. The thing then began bogging out under full throttle again, but kept its smooth idle.

So, I'm thinking its just not getting enough fuel at full throttle, either by a blockage in the carb, or the diaphragm had unseated itself again and couldn't keep up. Or it could be an air leak from a starter o-ring, intake manifold, intake tubing, pulse line, decompressor.................................who said 2-strokes were "simple". :rolleyes:

 

ajohno

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Joined
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Messages
1,359
Location
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I'm not a fan of pump-action sprayer and foamers, mainly because their output is never consistent, something may or not bug you as much as it does for me. For that reason, I just use a foam cannon to clean wheels.

P&S Brake Buster, MTM foam cannon.

IMG-3399.jpg

IMG-3401.jpg

However, the pump action sprayers have their place. I use a Marolex for Shine Supply Wise Guy, it destroys trigger action spray heads far too quickly, so the pump action eliminates that problem. Marolex do a sprayer (black) and foamer (blue).



IMG-0035.jpg

IMG-3077.jpg

IMG-0042.jpg

I only use the iK sprayer for rinse-less washing or when claying. The iK versions have a superior form factor, the plunger design is more ergonomic and handle allows it to hang off the bucket easier.



IMG-6557.jpg

IMG-7374.jpg

If you have access to an air compressor or inflator, iK fit a schrader valve to the Foam Pro 2+, which would mostly eliminate pumping. There will also be battery powered versions that will arrive at years end.

Thanks for the reply D.F.B
 
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D.F.B

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Looking at the original owner's manual, this mower was bought on the 16th of December 2002 and was given to me as a birthday present on the 28th of December. Not many teenage boys want a lawn mower for their 14th birthday, but I did!

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I used this mower to launch my business mowing lawns on weekends. You can see the wear marks on the Victa lettering on the deck, made from folding the thing up and being loaded into the back of my fathers EB II Falcon GLi wagon. At one point, I was also putting it into the back of my Fairmont sedan, something I shudder to think about today.

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When I left high school and was studying part time, I landed a job mowing lawns for one of the richest families in Australia. I remember being asked by the guy what lawn mower I had, I was so embarrassed to say that it was just a small push mower, expecting this to be a deal breaker. Turns out the last guy (crew) had a large rider mower that just made a mess, and that the small mower would suit them better. And so, that small, somewhat underpowered little Victa got put to work maintaining three quite properties with oversized nature strips.

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This machine was retired from regular use in 2005 after ramping up my business. I needed something with more power and a wider cut to improve my efficiency. Instead of trading it, for some reason I decided to keep it as a backup. In fact, I grabbed it quite often, its light weight always came in handy.

As the years went on, it's become a sentimental keepsake, it made me a power of money and represents how driven I was at that age. No contractor would choose something so small and underpowered, but I made the most of what I had and let my work ethic and finished results speak for themselves.

The poor engine is pretty worn out though now, blowing a light haze of oil smoke. I remember the day I wounded it, the last job of a very long day, tired and wanting to just do this job and go home. The grass at this property was longer than expected, tall and thick Kikuyu is a beast to bring under control. I only had the little Victa with me that day so just pushed on with it. I pushed a bit harder than the engine could be expected to handle considering its age, laboring it too much. It was never the same again.

Considering how much work this machine has done, its been pretty reliable. Other than blades, air filters, spark plugs and oil changes, it's needed the following -

- The front deck baffle came adrift on the job. It was straightened out and re-rivetted back in place.

- A front axle circlip also disappeared mid job, I ended up using a small piece of wire to reattach the axle and get me back in action. Only in recent years did I put a proper axle clip back on, along with a set of new plastic bushings locator clips.

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- Replacement carb diaphragm. I only did this last year, it was still running with the 2002 original but was stuttering as it struggled for enough fuel. I also replaced the governor springs too.

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I say all that because I have just pulled the pin on a set of piston rings, a gasket kit and piston ring compressor. I know that no many would bother doing this on a basic throw-away engine, but as I said, there is sentimental value at play here.

I last did something like this when I was 12 years old, my father and I stripped and rebuilt the same 3.5 hp Briggs on the old Morrison. So, I have a basic concept for what I'm in for, but not from recent memory. For the Sprint 375, it won't be a full rebuild. I plan to remove the sump plate and cylinder head, lift out the cam out, disconnect the conrod cap and push the piston out through the cylinder. I'll then clean the piston, cylinder head and valves, clean the gasket surfaces before replacing the rings and putting it back together with new gaskets.

I have a couple of question marks though. I don't think I will need to hone the (alloy) bore. It's not like the engine has ever starved for oil, from what I can gather the oil burning is simply from wearing out those rings. Secondly, I don't think it will need a valve job, the engine runs just fine, but I would then need lapping tools and compound, probably feeler gauges. Thirdly, should I sand/machine the cylinder head to ensure flatness, or just wing it.

Anyway, this should be a nice little project to do while I'm on long service leave.

Parts have arrived for the Sprint 375 refresh.

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Gasket set, lower crankshaft oil seal, NOS Brigg's & Stratton piston rings, and a Stens piston ring compressor. I probably need to get some assembly oil, anti-seize for the blade boss and a wire wheel to de-coke the cylinder head and valves.

I think the biggest challenge for me will be getting the blade boss off the crankshaft. I have actually never had the blade disk off this machine, let alone the boss. Fingers crossed it won't put up a fight, but I suspect I might need to invest in a puller. Thoughts?

I'm also not sure if I should hone the cylinder. While the engine has worked hard and has considerable hours on it, I've always kept the oil fresh and never let it run low. So, I'm fairly sure its burning oil because the rings are worn out. Also, these engines have an alloy bore, so I'm not sure if I should be honing it anyway. Grateful for thoughts on this too.
 
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