littlebean
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2018
- Messages
- 751
a result then, sometimes the effort is worth it regardless of any cost implications
Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage
- Thread starter D.F.B
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
The satisfaction gained from working on this mower far outweighs the cost. I actually didn't plan on spending so much time on it today, but I kinda got lost in the moment, which is nice because I wasn't feeling very motivated this morning.
Came across these vintage hub caps this afternoon. These are GA-Spares version of what Victa used for many years from the 60's, which are long NLA now. I'm not sure what W stands for, the OE ones had a V for Victa.
It's taken me a while, but I've got most of the NOS parts haul entered into a spreadsheet.
Not all of it has been cataloged. For example, two bins of assorted hardware with and without part numbers. The box full of paper gasket kits I chose to ignore for the moment as I'm not sure how usable they would be after 40-years. You'll notice in some instances a part didn't have a number, which meant not finding a price or what it suited. In some cases, I simply couldn't find any reference to particular part online, especially the SupaSwift stuff.
I bought these parts in two lots, all up costing $500. Even without every single part being logged and priced, the total value so far is just over $14,000! Now, the key word there being "value", I doubt I'll see a full return on that figure. Some of it will be virtually useless, some won't command a full retail price, some of it not even worth selling. I've also started drawing on it for my own use, such as a Victa Pro Control throttle lever and cable assembly, and certain stuff will be used for a planned restoration at some stage in the future...............if I ever find a suitable candidate.
Not all of it has been cataloged. For example, two bins of assorted hardware with and without part numbers. The box full of paper gasket kits I chose to ignore for the moment as I'm not sure how usable they would be after 40-years. You'll notice in some instances a part didn't have a number, which meant not finding a price or what it suited. In some cases, I simply couldn't find any reference to particular part online, especially the SupaSwift stuff.
I bought these parts in two lots, all up costing $500. Even without every single part being logged and priced, the total value so far is just over $14,000! Now, the key word there being "value", I doubt I'll see a full return on that figure. Some of it will be virtually useless, some won't command a full retail price, some of it not even worth selling. I've also started drawing on it for my own use, such as a Victa Pro Control throttle lever and cable assembly, and certain stuff will be used for a planned restoration at some stage in the future...............if I ever find a suitable candidate.
moab11
Well-known member
Lots of work, but sounds like you will get your monies worth just in the spare parts for your own machines.
NV Leather Care System
The NV leather care system isn't new, the products have been available for quite a while now. However, I feel like these products are severely underrated and go unnoticed by most. The system consists of three products, a leather cleaner, a leather coating, and a leather conditioner. For this review, I’ll be focusing on the cleaner and conditioner as I’m not a fan of ceramic coating leather.
What?
NV created three leather care products specifically for automotive leather and vinyl.
Cleanse – This is a safe and effective water-based cleaner for leather and vinyl. Unlike most leather cleaners, interior cleaners and all-purpose cleaners, Cleanse actually hydrates the surface as it cleans. Harsher alkaline cleaners used on these materials risk drying out and causing longer term damage, they can even remove the p/u coating itself. Cleanse keeps the material “flexible and healthy”, which helps provide "enough moisture internally before a top coating is applied”. According to NV, this can still provide benefit to p/u (split-grain) leather and vinyl.
Guardian Leather Coating – This is a water-based ceramic coating developed specifically for leather and vinyl. As mentioned, I’m not a big fan of these products, but if you need a higher level of abrasion and dye transfer protection, then go for it.
Nourish – This is another water-based product, which NV calls a “leather quick detailer” suitable for “automotive & genuine leather”. As you would add a topper to a paint coating, Nourish functions in a similar way, think of it as using Boost on top of a Nova EVO Coating, or Reload on top of Cquartz. That doesn’t mean it's solely a coating topper, Nourish can also be used as a standalone, lightly cleaning, hydrating and protecting treated surfaces. Like Guardian, Nourish also contains UV inhibitors.
All three a suitable for pigmented and non-pigmented leather surfaces, p/u coated leather, and vinyl.
Why?
There are several reasons why I put these NV products at top of my leather care recommendations.
- Firstly, simplicity! For example, the ColourLock and Geist leather systems have several different cleaners, conditioners and protectants, which you use is dependent on the age and condition of the leather. The NV leather system is vastly simpler to understand, one cleaner, two protectants.
- Unlike many brands, NV have ensured their leather cleaner and conditioners are suitable for top-coated automotive “leather”, as in being able to protect and preserve the “topcoat”.
- Unlike many brands, these NV products leave a matte, OE finish. No gloss, no slickness, no greasy look and feel. This is probably what wins it for me.
- Cleanse can be sprayed or foamed, much like the ColourLock cleaners.
- Cleanse has the ability to hydrate as it cleans, meaning it won’t leave a dry look and feel like APC’s can.
- No ghastly fake leather scents or perfumes. I’m normally a scent guy, but not here.
Where?
NV products aren’t available everywhere, so you need to seek them out.
In Australia, the NV brand is sold via Waxit, who are the company behind the NV Car Care.
Nv Car Care
Shop NV Car Care Products Online | Waxit Car Care
In the US market, NV is sold through Parks Care Care, who also run the dedicated NV Car Care website.
NV Car Care – Nv Car Care USA
NV Car Care – Parks Car Care
In Canada, Carzilla is your friend.
nv car care - CARZILLA
How?
For the most part, both Cleanse and Nourish are used like any other leather cleaner and conditioner. However, there are some specifics..........................
Cleanse –
Cleanse is a dedicated cleaner and ideal for resetting leather or clearing heavier build up. How you use Cleanse will depend on the level of cleaning required –
Light Cleaning – Spray Cleanse into a towel or directly onto the surface. Wipe with the towel, flip and buff till dry.
Medium to Heavy Cleaning – Cleanse teams well with a leather brush, the product lathering beautifully under agitation. Apply directly to the surface or into a brush, agitate, then wipe clean with a towel. Cleanse is supplied with a pump-action foam head, which is handy for cleaning vertical surfaces as it keeps the cleaner in place.
(Note - My bottle predates the change from Concours Car Care to NV Car Care)
Nourish –
This is arguably the quickest and easiest leather treatment on the market. While Nourish has some mild cleaning ability, I primarily use it for the protective and conditioning factor.
Application is simple, spray directly onto the surface or into a microfiber applicator, then spread across the leather. Allow Nourish 60 - 90-seconds to absorb and flash, then follow shortly after with a towel to level any high spots. The first thing you will notice with Nourish is how smoothly and easily it spreads, coverage is excellent. You also do not need to worry about plugging up perforated leather sections, as will happen with thick balms and creams. Secondly, the finished result is supremely soft and smooth feeling, no slickness, no oily residue. It’s this lovely soft feel that surprised me the most the first few times I used Nourish.
Ideally, you’d apply Nourish every few months, although that would vary depending on vehicle usage, season, and age of the material.
Leather Cleaning & Conditioning Notes –
- Something I recently discovered, the “topcoat” on automotive leather is much like the clearcoat on the paint, except it’s even thinner! Over time, that coating will wear and expose the leather underneath.
- When polishing clearcoat, you don't want to be hammering down on it with heavy pad and compound combinations on a regular basis, you only get so much clearcoat. So, going in with heavy APC’s and general interior cleaners on leather will speed up the degradation of that "topcoat". And once that top coat is breached, you will be lifting colour from the material. Same applies with the frequent use of those scrub pads, ok for the occasional deep clean, but not something you want to be doing with frequency.
- For brushes, I like either the firmer ColourLock brush, or the slightly softer Maxshine Premium Upholstery & Leather Brush.
- For the application of leather conditioners, I really like those Carpro and Gyeon finger applicators. I’ve found them super ergonomic and produce a nicer finish than a foam sponge.
Final Thoughts –
I’m a big fan of the ColourLock leather system. From the safe and highly effective cleaners, or the protectors and conditioning products, all deliver exactly what I’m looking for………….a soft, smooth, gloss free finish and non-greasy feel. However, not everyone wants to go down that nitty-gritty path.
And so, this is where the NV duo come into their own. Without compromising the effectiveness or quality of the finished result, NV Cleanse and Nourish are simple, easy and satisfying to use on any leather or vinyl surface.
The NV leather care system isn't new, the products have been available for quite a while now. However, I feel like these products are severely underrated and go unnoticed by most. The system consists of three products, a leather cleaner, a leather coating, and a leather conditioner. For this review, I’ll be focusing on the cleaner and conditioner as I’m not a fan of ceramic coating leather.
What?
NV created three leather care products specifically for automotive leather and vinyl.
Cleanse – This is a safe and effective water-based cleaner for leather and vinyl. Unlike most leather cleaners, interior cleaners and all-purpose cleaners, Cleanse actually hydrates the surface as it cleans. Harsher alkaline cleaners used on these materials risk drying out and causing longer term damage, they can even remove the p/u coating itself. Cleanse keeps the material “flexible and healthy”, which helps provide "enough moisture internally before a top coating is applied”. According to NV, this can still provide benefit to p/u (split-grain) leather and vinyl.
Guardian Leather Coating – This is a water-based ceramic coating developed specifically for leather and vinyl. As mentioned, I’m not a big fan of these products, but if you need a higher level of abrasion and dye transfer protection, then go for it.
Nourish – This is another water-based product, which NV calls a “leather quick detailer” suitable for “automotive & genuine leather”. As you would add a topper to a paint coating, Nourish functions in a similar way, think of it as using Boost on top of a Nova EVO Coating, or Reload on top of Cquartz. That doesn’t mean it's solely a coating topper, Nourish can also be used as a standalone, lightly cleaning, hydrating and protecting treated surfaces. Like Guardian, Nourish also contains UV inhibitors.
All three a suitable for pigmented and non-pigmented leather surfaces, p/u coated leather, and vinyl.
Why?
There are several reasons why I put these NV products at top of my leather care recommendations.
- Firstly, simplicity! For example, the ColourLock and Geist leather systems have several different cleaners, conditioners and protectants, which you use is dependent on the age and condition of the leather. The NV leather system is vastly simpler to understand, one cleaner, two protectants.
- Unlike many brands, NV have ensured their leather cleaner and conditioners are suitable for top-coated automotive “leather”, as in being able to protect and preserve the “topcoat”.
- Unlike many brands, these NV products leave a matte, OE finish. No gloss, no slickness, no greasy look and feel. This is probably what wins it for me.
- Cleanse can be sprayed or foamed, much like the ColourLock cleaners.
- Cleanse has the ability to hydrate as it cleans, meaning it won’t leave a dry look and feel like APC’s can.
- No ghastly fake leather scents or perfumes. I’m normally a scent guy, but not here.
Where?
NV products aren’t available everywhere, so you need to seek them out.
In Australia, the NV brand is sold via Waxit, who are the company behind the NV Car Care.
Nv Car Care
Shop NV Car Care Products Online | Waxit Car Care
In the US market, NV is sold through Parks Care Care, who also run the dedicated NV Car Care website.
NV Car Care – Nv Car Care USA
NV Car Care – Parks Car Care
In Canada, Carzilla is your friend.
nv car care - CARZILLA
How?
For the most part, both Cleanse and Nourish are used like any other leather cleaner and conditioner. However, there are some specifics..........................
Cleanse –
Cleanse is a dedicated cleaner and ideal for resetting leather or clearing heavier build up. How you use Cleanse will depend on the level of cleaning required –
Light Cleaning – Spray Cleanse into a towel or directly onto the surface. Wipe with the towel, flip and buff till dry.
Medium to Heavy Cleaning – Cleanse teams well with a leather brush, the product lathering beautifully under agitation. Apply directly to the surface or into a brush, agitate, then wipe clean with a towel. Cleanse is supplied with a pump-action foam head, which is handy for cleaning vertical surfaces as it keeps the cleaner in place.
(Note - My bottle predates the change from Concours Car Care to NV Car Care)
Nourish –
This is arguably the quickest and easiest leather treatment on the market. While Nourish has some mild cleaning ability, I primarily use it for the protective and conditioning factor.
Application is simple, spray directly onto the surface or into a microfiber applicator, then spread across the leather. Allow Nourish 60 - 90-seconds to absorb and flash, then follow shortly after with a towel to level any high spots. The first thing you will notice with Nourish is how smoothly and easily it spreads, coverage is excellent. You also do not need to worry about plugging up perforated leather sections, as will happen with thick balms and creams. Secondly, the finished result is supremely soft and smooth feeling, no slickness, no oily residue. It’s this lovely soft feel that surprised me the most the first few times I used Nourish.
Ideally, you’d apply Nourish every few months, although that would vary depending on vehicle usage, season, and age of the material.
Leather Cleaning & Conditioning Notes –
- Something I recently discovered, the “topcoat” on automotive leather is much like the clearcoat on the paint, except it’s even thinner! Over time, that coating will wear and expose the leather underneath.
- When polishing clearcoat, you don't want to be hammering down on it with heavy pad and compound combinations on a regular basis, you only get so much clearcoat. So, going in with heavy APC’s and general interior cleaners on leather will speed up the degradation of that "topcoat". And once that top coat is breached, you will be lifting colour from the material. Same applies with the frequent use of those scrub pads, ok for the occasional deep clean, but not something you want to be doing with frequency.
- For brushes, I like either the firmer ColourLock brush, or the slightly softer Maxshine Premium Upholstery & Leather Brush.
- For the application of leather conditioners, I really like those Carpro and Gyeon finger applicators. I’ve found them super ergonomic and produce a nicer finish than a foam sponge.
Final Thoughts –
I’m a big fan of the ColourLock leather system. From the safe and highly effective cleaners, or the protectors and conditioning products, all deliver exactly what I’m looking for………….a soft, smooth, gloss free finish and non-greasy feel. However, not everyone wants to go down that nitty-gritty path.
And so, this is where the NV duo come into their own. Without compromising the effectiveness or quality of the finished result, NV Cleanse and Nourish are simple, easy and satisfying to use on any leather or vinyl surface.
I’ve begun stock piling parts for a planned mower rebuild at some point in the future. The sticking point is finding a suitable candidate.
Said candidate is a mid-2000’s Victa Razor. I bought one of these brand new in 2006, replacing my hard worked Corvette 400. With more power and a wider cut, this helped increase my efficiency and looked a little more professional, I was 20-years old at the time.
Victa initially made the Razor in blue, before transitioning to grey. My Razor was a later 2006 model, meaning it came with the gunmetal chassis and grey accents. I still have the brochure and the drink bottle included with each Razor, which could also be bought for $19.95 at a Victa dealer.
Instead of the $719 list price, I paid $650 for the mower. I went for the 190cc Briggs & Stratton Quantum XTS60 engine, for whatever reason the Honda wasn’t on my radar, and back then, I wasn’t the 2-Stroke fanboy that I am today. I still stick by that decision, to the point where that’s the variant I’m hunting to find. So, there is a lot of nostalgia going on with this project.
Realistically, I could recreate my own Razor by using a Mustang as a donor and retrofitting the handle. But that in itself comes with a variety of specific drawbacks………………..I want the real deal. So, I’ve been hunting for another Razor for quite a while now, but finding the “right” one is proving to be the hard part.
Other than finding a mower, there are a few sticking points....................
- The handle is NLA, so I need to find one intact, with the included drink bottle.
- The 2-Strokes had a bespoke throttle control module that is also NLA, so again, it would need to be intact.
- If needed, replacement catchers are still available. Realistically, I’d do this for cosmetic purposes.
- The unique Razor decal for the deck would need to be re-created. I’m not sure how this would be done, especially if its missing from the mower. Chime in if you can help.
- The biggest sticking point is the plastic wear strips on either side of the deck. Because of how these are fitted to the deck and the location of the hardware, quite often these come loose and end up being ripped off the deck from clipping rocks, paths or gutters……………..ask me how I know. Victa eventually came up with a revised wear strip, which they still use to this day, but it doesn’t flow seamlessly into the height adjuster trim like the early design did. So far, I’ve only come across the right-hand side piece, so I need to find these intact as well, or pillage a donor.
This Mustang shows the missing trim -
The revised version -
Ideally, I want another Quantum, but would also take a 2-Stroke. Once I find one, the plan is to complexly strip the mower down to the bare chassis. I’ll then have the deck sandblasted and powder coated. The engine will get a full rebuild, because why not. I’ll then restore any of the black plastics, possibly repaint the handle, and replace any hardware that is needed. As you can see, I’ve started with getting four new wheels and hubcaps, plus some assorted hardware.
Said candidate is a mid-2000’s Victa Razor. I bought one of these brand new in 2006, replacing my hard worked Corvette 400. With more power and a wider cut, this helped increase my efficiency and looked a little more professional, I was 20-years old at the time.
Victa initially made the Razor in blue, before transitioning to grey. My Razor was a later 2006 model, meaning it came with the gunmetal chassis and grey accents. I still have the brochure and the drink bottle included with each Razor, which could also be bought for $19.95 at a Victa dealer.
Instead of the $719 list price, I paid $650 for the mower. I went for the 190cc Briggs & Stratton Quantum XTS60 engine, for whatever reason the Honda wasn’t on my radar, and back then, I wasn’t the 2-Stroke fanboy that I am today. I still stick by that decision, to the point where that’s the variant I’m hunting to find. So, there is a lot of nostalgia going on with this project.
Realistically, I could recreate my own Razor by using a Mustang as a donor and retrofitting the handle. But that in itself comes with a variety of specific drawbacks………………..I want the real deal. So, I’ve been hunting for another Razor for quite a while now, but finding the “right” one is proving to be the hard part.
Other than finding a mower, there are a few sticking points....................
- The handle is NLA, so I need to find one intact, with the included drink bottle.
- The 2-Strokes had a bespoke throttle control module that is also NLA, so again, it would need to be intact.
- If needed, replacement catchers are still available. Realistically, I’d do this for cosmetic purposes.
- The unique Razor decal for the deck would need to be re-created. I’m not sure how this would be done, especially if its missing from the mower. Chime in if you can help.
- The biggest sticking point is the plastic wear strips on either side of the deck. Because of how these are fitted to the deck and the location of the hardware, quite often these come loose and end up being ripped off the deck from clipping rocks, paths or gutters……………..ask me how I know. Victa eventually came up with a revised wear strip, which they still use to this day, but it doesn’t flow seamlessly into the height adjuster trim like the early design did. So far, I’ve only come across the right-hand side piece, so I need to find these intact as well, or pillage a donor.
This Mustang shows the missing trim -
The revised version -
Ideally, I want another Quantum, but would also take a 2-Stroke. Once I find one, the plan is to complexly strip the mower down to the bare chassis. I’ll then have the deck sandblasted and powder coated. The engine will get a full rebuild, because why not. I’ll then restore any of the black plastics, possibly repaint the handle, and replace any hardware that is needed. As you can see, I’ve started with getting four new wheels and hubcaps, plus some assorted hardware.
Member @mattblast recreates OEM stickers for vintage machines. He may be able to help? His thread: Vintage Grinder Sticker Reproduction.
An eclectic mix used on the Mustang today......................
Working left to right -
ADS Adapt - Used as a light drying aid to mop up remaining drips of water after blow drying. Great on glass and door jambs too.
Bilt Hamber Atom Mac - Applied to the brake rotors after cleaning the wheels, then again after the final rinse/before blow drying. This stops flash rust forming on the rotors, turning the freshly cleaned black wheels orange.
Carpro Reset - The best soap on the market! Used as a wheel cleaner as well.
Working left to right -
ADS Adapt - Used as a light drying aid to mop up remaining drips of water after blow drying. Great on glass and door jambs too.
Bilt Hamber Atom Mac - Applied to the brake rotors after cleaning the wheels, then again after the final rinse/before blow drying. This stops flash rust forming on the rotors, turning the freshly cleaned black wheels orange.
Carpro Reset - The best soap on the market! Used as a wheel cleaner as well.
This is a classic case of a $0.50c part closing the show.....................
I noticed earlier in the week my hedge trimmer wasn't cutting very well, it also sounded louder than normal. No problem, it's probably ready for a another sharpen.
On Wednesday, I got around to taking a closer look. I normally sharpen the blades with a Dremel stone while still attached to the unit, but its a little cumbersome. So, this time I wanted to take them apart to make sharpening easier, but also to properly clean them and repack the gearbox with grease while I was at it. When I flipped the unit over, I found the source of the added noise and crappy cutting performance, missing hardware................
No problem, I'll find something in the parts crypt. So, off I went with the sharpening, cleaning, and re-greasing. I put it all back together and went looking for some hardware. The T27 bolt was easy, I have a case full of replacement Stihl hardware, I even found a suitable washer. But, I wasn't so lucky finding the tiny little piece that sits below the washer in the blade groove. This tiny part is crucial because it allows the fastener to be tight, yet prevents the bolt and washer clamping down too tight and locking up the blade movement.
Knowing how this stuff works, and being a battery powered tool, I was certain this missing piece would mean buying a whole blade assembly, valued at around $130 - $150. I've had colleagues scrap otherwise functioning hedge trimmers because of a missing piece like this that is not available as a spare part. As a long shot, I went and found the parts manual, then landed on the required parts within 2 minutes! This availability of parts is reassuring as Stihl is now fully invested in battery tools. In the past, battery or electric powered would have meant non-serviceable.
Outside of the basics, Stihl spare parts are normally only available through the dealer network, which generally means visiting a dealer. In the past, I've found this to be hit and miss, I'm still waiting for a fuel line I asked for 9 months ago! :nothappy I can't wait indefinitely for a part on this machine, especially with all of the spring growth. I suppose I could have driven all over town trying to find something similar from a hardware store or specialty bolt place, but frankly, I don't have the patience for that **** anymore. In this case, I found the parts at an online Stihl dealer and had them shipped in less than two days.
The part in question is what Stihl calls a "slider". This is basically a small piece of tube that retails for $6.00 each. While I was at it, I ordered the correct bolt and washer, two of each. I would have ordered more, but they only had two of the sliders in stock.
I said this was a $0.50c failure...................more like a $11.40 + shipping failure. That's one piece of tube, one bolt, one washer for $12. :doh
https://mcmwarrnambool.com.au/produ...8-6700?_pos=1&_psq=4521+648+6700&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://mcmwarrnambool.com.au/produ...81057&pr_ref_pid=8731932819681&pr_seq=uniform
https://mcmwarrnambool.com.au/produ...87905&pr_ref_pid=8731932819681&pr_seq=uniform
Having complained about the cost, I will say that $12 is better than $150 for a new blade set. And the parts were easy to find and fit.
As you can see, the "slider" fits into the grove created by the two blades, the washer sits on top and the bolt drives through and into the blade support guide. This arrangement provides just enough torque to keep the blades firm for crisp cutting, but not too tight that the blades won't oscillate.
You can probably see the blades are covered in a sticky residue. That is not plant sap, but rather a coating of WD-40 Specialist No Drip, formally Spray & Stay. I stumbled across this when trying to find a substitute for Valco Cincinnati Gel Lube that Mr. Dactel uses, which as usual, isn't sold in Australia. The concept being that rather than drying, evaporating or dripping away, the sticky consistency stays adhered to the treated surface. The WD-40 product is not a total substitute for Gel Lube though, which can also be used as an engine assembly lube.
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/wd40-21027-360g-specialist-spray-stay-gel-lube
https://valco-cp.com/products/aeros...aH7XR3_o35swn19u2jq_f6ZFtDnsh7U7irWEuaeNyLITc
Sharp, greased, lubricated...............ready to CUT some bush(es)................
I bought this HSA 56 hedge trimmer in November 2018, my first battery powered garden tool. I paid a neat $500 for it, which included the AL 101 charger and AK10 battery. With how far Stihl have come with battery power, in 2025 you can actually buy the equivalent HSA 50 kit for $459. Considering how much work this thing has done over a 7-year period, today's $12 repair is a drop in the ocean. Amazingly, the batteries that power it are of a similar age, and touch wood, are still performing very well. Can't ask for more.
Comparing that to the petrol-powered Stihl HS 45 it replaced, well that's a completely different story. In addition to the $629 purchase price in 2010, between November 2014 and when it was retired in November 2018, I spent $280 keeping it in service via repairs (fuel lines ect) and blade sharpening. And that's before you add fuel costs, which with how you run a hedger at WOT all of the time, you end up burning through a lot of it! Plus, it was heavier, noisier, smellier. Also, the layout of them makes it awkwardly hard to start, balancing the machine in one hand and pulling the rope in the other, all the while not cutting yourself or a plant.
I love petrol power, but not when it comes to hedge trimmers! After sitting at the back of the shed for 6 years, I cleaned it up, replaced a broken primer bulb and moved it on.
I noticed earlier in the week my hedge trimmer wasn't cutting very well, it also sounded louder than normal. No problem, it's probably ready for a another sharpen.
On Wednesday, I got around to taking a closer look. I normally sharpen the blades with a Dremel stone while still attached to the unit, but its a little cumbersome. So, this time I wanted to take them apart to make sharpening easier, but also to properly clean them and repack the gearbox with grease while I was at it. When I flipped the unit over, I found the source of the added noise and crappy cutting performance, missing hardware................
No problem, I'll find something in the parts crypt. So, off I went with the sharpening, cleaning, and re-greasing. I put it all back together and went looking for some hardware. The T27 bolt was easy, I have a case full of replacement Stihl hardware, I even found a suitable washer. But, I wasn't so lucky finding the tiny little piece that sits below the washer in the blade groove. This tiny part is crucial because it allows the fastener to be tight, yet prevents the bolt and washer clamping down too tight and locking up the blade movement.
Knowing how this stuff works, and being a battery powered tool, I was certain this missing piece would mean buying a whole blade assembly, valued at around $130 - $150. I've had colleagues scrap otherwise functioning hedge trimmers because of a missing piece like this that is not available as a spare part. As a long shot, I went and found the parts manual, then landed on the required parts within 2 minutes! This availability of parts is reassuring as Stihl is now fully invested in battery tools. In the past, battery or electric powered would have meant non-serviceable.
Outside of the basics, Stihl spare parts are normally only available through the dealer network, which generally means visiting a dealer. In the past, I've found this to be hit and miss, I'm still waiting for a fuel line I asked for 9 months ago! :nothappy I can't wait indefinitely for a part on this machine, especially with all of the spring growth. I suppose I could have driven all over town trying to find something similar from a hardware store or specialty bolt place, but frankly, I don't have the patience for that **** anymore. In this case, I found the parts at an online Stihl dealer and had them shipped in less than two days.
The part in question is what Stihl calls a "slider". This is basically a small piece of tube that retails for $6.00 each. While I was at it, I ordered the correct bolt and washer, two of each. I would have ordered more, but they only had two of the sliders in stock.
I said this was a $0.50c failure...................more like a $11.40 + shipping failure. That's one piece of tube, one bolt, one washer for $12. :doh
https://mcmwarrnambool.com.au/produ...8-6700?_pos=1&_psq=4521+648+6700&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://mcmwarrnambool.com.au/produ...81057&pr_ref_pid=8731932819681&pr_seq=uniform
https://mcmwarrnambool.com.au/produ...87905&pr_ref_pid=8731932819681&pr_seq=uniform
Having complained about the cost, I will say that $12 is better than $150 for a new blade set. And the parts were easy to find and fit.
As you can see, the "slider" fits into the grove created by the two blades, the washer sits on top and the bolt drives through and into the blade support guide. This arrangement provides just enough torque to keep the blades firm for crisp cutting, but not too tight that the blades won't oscillate.
You can probably see the blades are covered in a sticky residue. That is not plant sap, but rather a coating of WD-40 Specialist No Drip, formally Spray & Stay. I stumbled across this when trying to find a substitute for Valco Cincinnati Gel Lube that Mr. Dactel uses, which as usual, isn't sold in Australia. The concept being that rather than drying, evaporating or dripping away, the sticky consistency stays adhered to the treated surface. The WD-40 product is not a total substitute for Gel Lube though, which can also be used as an engine assembly lube.
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/wd40-21027-360g-specialist-spray-stay-gel-lube
https://valco-cp.com/products/aeros...aH7XR3_o35swn19u2jq_f6ZFtDnsh7U7irWEuaeNyLITc
Sharp, greased, lubricated...............ready to CUT some bush(es)................
I bought this HSA 56 hedge trimmer in November 2018, my first battery powered garden tool. I paid a neat $500 for it, which included the AL 101 charger and AK10 battery. With how far Stihl have come with battery power, in 2025 you can actually buy the equivalent HSA 50 kit for $459. Considering how much work this thing has done over a 7-year period, today's $12 repair is a drop in the ocean. Amazingly, the batteries that power it are of a similar age, and touch wood, are still performing very well. Can't ask for more.
Comparing that to the petrol-powered Stihl HS 45 it replaced, well that's a completely different story. In addition to the $629 purchase price in 2010, between November 2014 and when it was retired in November 2018, I spent $280 keeping it in service via repairs (fuel lines ect) and blade sharpening. And that's before you add fuel costs, which with how you run a hedger at WOT all of the time, you end up burning through a lot of it! Plus, it was heavier, noisier, smellier. Also, the layout of them makes it awkwardly hard to start, balancing the machine in one hand and pulling the rope in the other, all the while not cutting yourself or a plant.
I love petrol power, but not when it comes to hedge trimmers! After sitting at the back of the shed for 6 years, I cleaned it up, replaced a broken primer bulb and moved it on.
Man! This thing has some power!! Even with the throttle in the "idle" position (which isn't really an idle), nothing really phases it.
As I finished cutting the grass, the neighbour fired up his 161cc Briggs DOV powered Husqvarna (I'm a Briggs guy, but I hate that engine). Listening to it as he mowed, the engine didn't really hold speed when under load, it would bog down too readily. And his grass wasn't all that tall either. At the risk succumbing to "they don't make them like they used to" syndrome, lawn mowers haven't necessarily improved in the last 30 years.
As I finished cutting the grass, the neighbour fired up his 161cc Briggs DOV powered Husqvarna (I'm a Briggs guy, but I hate that engine). Listening to it as he mowed, the engine didn't really hold speed when under load, it would bog down too readily. And his grass wasn't all that tall either. At the risk succumbing to "they don't make them like they used to" syndrome, lawn mowers haven't necessarily improved in the last 30 years.
A one-off job for a family friend, thought it was worth a snap and this caption.
Rover. Great Start, Great Finish....................
And how the mighty have fallen. Well done MTD, what you've done to the Rover brand is a grade A case study on how to buy and run a company into the ground.
Below is all that remains, all but one of those is an "Aussie" design, the deck of the Duracut 855. The rest are rebranded MTD's. As Taryl would say, Junk Junk Junk.......................
What I don't understand is why a company would buy a brand then proceed to choke it till insignificance. Someone once told me that it's simply a case of MTD trying to eliminate competition. Early on, Rovers did in fact sell next to Yardman mowers, but those are long gone too. MTD no longer sell push mowers in Australia.
Rover. Great Start, Great Finish....................
And how the mighty have fallen. Well done MTD, what you've done to the Rover brand is a grade A case study on how to buy and run a company into the ground.
Below is all that remains, all but one of those is an "Aussie" design, the deck of the Duracut 855. The rest are rebranded MTD's. As Taryl would say, Junk Junk Junk.......................
What I don't understand is why a company would buy a brand then proceed to choke it till insignificance. Someone once told me that it's simply a case of MTD trying to eliminate competition. Early on, Rovers did in fact sell next to Yardman mowers, but those are long gone too. MTD no longer sell push mowers in Australia.
As always, mother nature dictates my work schedule. Despite a several customers being scheduled for today, by 10am the rain had settled in and put an end to those plans. Never mind, I catch up tomorrow..............no such thing as a public holiday for the self-employed.
Wet weather duties usually involve machinery maintenance. On the docket today, all of the handheld petrol-powered units.
Stihl BG86 (Newest) - Fuel dumped and filtered, tank blown out with compressed air. The fuel filter was retrieved from the tank and new one installed. New spark plug, air filter and filter boxes blown out.
Stihl BG 86C (Older) - Fuel dumped and filtered, tank and air filter housings blown out with compressed air. New fuel filter installed, brand new HD2 air filter. Spark plug removed and cleaned with a wire brush.
Stihl BG86C (Vac) - Fuel dumped and filtered, tank and blown out and new fuel filter installed. This earlier model used an oiled foam filter, which was cleaned in soapy water, blown out with compressed air, then re-oiled once dry. The air filter housing and retainer were also blown out with compressed air. Spark plug removed and cleaned.
Husqvarna 522L - Fuel dumped and filtered, tank and blown out. The fuel filter was then replaced, which is quite expensive weighted filter. A new spark plug was installed, then both air filter elements.
Atom GX25 - Yep, fuel drained and filtered. The fuel filter on these is a weird Walbro branded weighted flock item, which I actually had one from the NOS parts haul......win! I then replaced the foam air filter, oiled as per spec. The top cover was removed and the spark plug replaced, despite its age, likely the third time its been replaced. I then gifted it an oil change, all 80ml of it.
Yeah, that escalated quickly! You could save quite a bit of money by using aftermarket fuel filters, which are generally about $5.00 each instead of closer to $15. And that HD2 air filter is ridiculously expensive for what it is, the aftermarket ones are about half that price. However, I don't really trust aftermarket air and fuel filters, so I'm happy to pay OEM.
I later went down to both the Husqvarna and Stihl dealers to replenish what I had just used. On the Stihl front, I was given the requested fuel and air filters for free, the better part of $70 worth! Gotta love that, so I lashed out on a Stihl branded jacket for a similar amount.
The star of the show today was the Genuine Stihl fuel line retrieval tool. On one end, a hook to drag the fuel line and filter from the depths of the tank. The opposite end is forked to hold the fuel line out of the tank while you remove and install the filter. So good!
Stihl Special Tool - 5910 893 8800
https://www.outbushman.com.au/produ...l-line-fuel-filter-special-tool-5910-893-8800
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2735243...atTeHq3kudbTWdrpcHDXlCiSzxeALLmnRalAX2qgchWRI
Wet weather duties usually involve machinery maintenance. On the docket today, all of the handheld petrol-powered units.
Stihl BG86 (Newest) - Fuel dumped and filtered, tank blown out with compressed air. The fuel filter was retrieved from the tank and new one installed. New spark plug, air filter and filter boxes blown out.
Stihl BG 86C (Older) - Fuel dumped and filtered, tank and air filter housings blown out with compressed air. New fuel filter installed, brand new HD2 air filter. Spark plug removed and cleaned with a wire brush.
Stihl BG86C (Vac) - Fuel dumped and filtered, tank and blown out and new fuel filter installed. This earlier model used an oiled foam filter, which was cleaned in soapy water, blown out with compressed air, then re-oiled once dry. The air filter housing and retainer were also blown out with compressed air. Spark plug removed and cleaned.
Husqvarna 522L - Fuel dumped and filtered, tank and blown out. The fuel filter was then replaced, which is quite expensive weighted filter. A new spark plug was installed, then both air filter elements.
Atom GX25 - Yep, fuel drained and filtered. The fuel filter on these is a weird Walbro branded weighted flock item, which I actually had one from the NOS parts haul......win! I then replaced the foam air filter, oiled as per spec. The top cover was removed and the spark plug replaced, despite its age, likely the third time its been replaced. I then gifted it an oil change, all 80ml of it.
Yeah, that escalated quickly! You could save quite a bit of money by using aftermarket fuel filters, which are generally about $5.00 each instead of closer to $15. And that HD2 air filter is ridiculously expensive for what it is, the aftermarket ones are about half that price. However, I don't really trust aftermarket air and fuel filters, so I'm happy to pay OEM.
I later went down to both the Husqvarna and Stihl dealers to replenish what I had just used. On the Stihl front, I was given the requested fuel and air filters for free, the better part of $70 worth! Gotta love that, so I lashed out on a Stihl branded jacket for a similar amount.
The star of the show today was the Genuine Stihl fuel line retrieval tool. On one end, a hook to drag the fuel line and filter from the depths of the tank. The opposite end is forked to hold the fuel line out of the tank while you remove and install the filter. So good!
Stihl Special Tool - 5910 893 8800
https://www.outbushman.com.au/produ...l-line-fuel-filter-special-tool-5910-893-8800
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2735243...atTeHq3kudbTWdrpcHDXlCiSzxeALLmnRalAX2qgchWRI
The Bushranger brand sprung up in 2004 under the PLP Powerup Lawncare Products brand, a division of Roy Gripske and Sons. PLP houses brands such as Stiga, Big Dog, Craftsman, Maruyama, Ariens, and Hustler. The wider RGS company also manages and distributes G.A Spares, Kawasaki Engines, SupaSwift, ProKut, Walbro, Tygon Tubing, Tuff Torq, Diamond Edge, Champion and NGK Spark Plugs.
https://www.rgs.com.au/rgs-brands.php
Speaking of the Bushranger brand, the push mower lineup was created by purchasing and repurposing old tooling from the established brands. For example, the majority of the range uses the old Rover 18-inch chassis and blade systems. The 19- and 21-inch alloy models I'm fairly certain started life as a Honda. For the utility mowers, Bushranger uses the SupaSwift Little Bob and Big Bob steel chassis. The SupaSwift brand piggyback off that by using the 18-inch steel (blue series) and 21-inch alloy chassis. From what I understand, all of them are assembled in Australia.
https://bushrangerpe.com.au/products/lawn-mowers
https://supaswift.com.au/products/lawnmowers
Last month, RGS / PLP purchased Victa from Briggs & Stratton, which means Victa is back in Australian hands. And in many ways, it's a return to a previous partnership.
https://www.victa.com/content/dam/victa/au/en_au/files/Victa_RGS_PR Release.pdf
The following is a 2011 Bushranger catalogue from my giant collection of brochures and spec sheets. Immediately, something stands out..................
The eagle eyed will note that these early Bushranger mowers were based on Victa's.
The range opened with the 450 and 500 Series mowers. These used the standard Victa 18-inch chassis, handle, catcher, and either the oval 2-blade disk or the round fluted mulching disk. The wheels are of the Rover type though.
On these next pages, the 500 and 625 Series machines on the left use the Victa 19-inch steel base, catcher, blade systems and handle. Again, the wheels are from Rover.
The 625 and 650 Series on the right use the Victa 19-inch alloy chassis, as used on the Mustang, Bronco and Razor. You can see the sizeable plastic trim glued to the front of the deck, this is to cover up the Victa logo cast into the aluminium.
And finally, the 600 Series Ute is based on the 18-inch steel Victa MasterCut 460. Again, the handle and blade carrier are carry over, as is the plastic discharge chute. The wheels are again from Rover/G.A Spares. What's interesting about this one is the engine, a 190cc Briggs Quantum I/C (Industrial Commercial / Cast Iron Bore). The largest engine Victa have fitted on this chassis is the current 163cc OHV Briggs, followed by the 160cc Honda GCV160 and 160cc PowerTorque 2-Stroke. Personally, I'd say this 190cc Briggs is probably a little too much for this machine....................but it would RIP!
Something you will notice about these mowers is how bland/plain they look, especially the badges and stickers looking rudimentary. This is something that also affects the current range too. According to a recent press release, one of the benefits of buying Victa was gaining access to an in-house design department. That would in turn allow PLP to add some flair to the visual design of these machines and perhaps a move away from black plastic and silver paint.
https://www.rgs.com.au/rgs-brands.php
Speaking of the Bushranger brand, the push mower lineup was created by purchasing and repurposing old tooling from the established brands. For example, the majority of the range uses the old Rover 18-inch chassis and blade systems. The 19- and 21-inch alloy models I'm fairly certain started life as a Honda. For the utility mowers, Bushranger uses the SupaSwift Little Bob and Big Bob steel chassis. The SupaSwift brand piggyback off that by using the 18-inch steel (blue series) and 21-inch alloy chassis. From what I understand, all of them are assembled in Australia.
https://bushrangerpe.com.au/products/lawn-mowers
https://supaswift.com.au/products/lawnmowers
Last month, RGS / PLP purchased Victa from Briggs & Stratton, which means Victa is back in Australian hands. And in many ways, it's a return to a previous partnership.
https://www.victa.com/content/dam/victa/au/en_au/files/Victa_RGS_PR Release.pdf
The following is a 2011 Bushranger catalogue from my giant collection of brochures and spec sheets. Immediately, something stands out..................
The eagle eyed will note that these early Bushranger mowers were based on Victa's.
The range opened with the 450 and 500 Series mowers. These used the standard Victa 18-inch chassis, handle, catcher, and either the oval 2-blade disk or the round fluted mulching disk. The wheels are of the Rover type though.
On these next pages, the 500 and 625 Series machines on the left use the Victa 19-inch steel base, catcher, blade systems and handle. Again, the wheels are from Rover.
The 625 and 650 Series on the right use the Victa 19-inch alloy chassis, as used on the Mustang, Bronco and Razor. You can see the sizeable plastic trim glued to the front of the deck, this is to cover up the Victa logo cast into the aluminium.
And finally, the 600 Series Ute is based on the 18-inch steel Victa MasterCut 460. Again, the handle and blade carrier are carry over, as is the plastic discharge chute. The wheels are again from Rover/G.A Spares. What's interesting about this one is the engine, a 190cc Briggs Quantum I/C (Industrial Commercial / Cast Iron Bore). The largest engine Victa have fitted on this chassis is the current 163cc OHV Briggs, followed by the 160cc Honda GCV160 and 160cc PowerTorque 2-Stroke. Personally, I'd say this 190cc Briggs is probably a little too much for this machine....................but it would RIP!
Something you will notice about these mowers is how bland/plain they look, especially the badges and stickers looking rudimentary. This is something that also affects the current range too. According to a recent press release, one of the benefits of buying Victa was gaining access to an in-house design department. That would in turn allow PLP to add some flair to the visual design of these machines and perhaps a move away from black plastic and silver paint.
It's SEMA week, and so many brands are showing off new products.
For whatever reason, Carpro don't actually have a booth at SEMA, but they do use it as a sounding board for new products. To mark the 15th anniversary of the Carpro brand, they have unveiled a brand-new look to their entire lineup.
Yeah yeah, new labels, so what? Actually, back when Carpro hit the market 2010, the detailing market was vastly different. Firstly, there was less competition, especially at the premium end of the market. As more and more ceramic coating-based brands came to market, Carpro needed to ensure they stood out. The products spoke for themselves, but the way Carpro presented their brand was a breath of fresh air.
To start, they stepped away from the traditional bottle designs and the overly crowded, messing looking labels. In the early days, that meant clear plastic bottles teamed with a clean, simple and colour coded label layout. A few years later, they transitioned to a smoked semi-translucent bottle in 500ml and 1-litre sizes, as well as a unique 4-litre bottle. This coincided with a new label design that has been on the market until now.
Those outgoing labels were what drew me to the Carpro brand. It looked fresh, clean, easy to read and recognise. The form factor was high, backing up the functional excellence of the product itself. Brand presentation then became a priority within the industry, especially for companies aiming for the same pro-sumer customer. I'd also say with the introduction of these new brands, the fresh look won over younger detailing enthusiasts who wanted something more modern than what the high-sock Corvette crowd were using.
For whatever reason, Carpro don't actually have a booth at SEMA, but they do use it as a sounding board for new products. To mark the 15th anniversary of the Carpro brand, they have unveiled a brand-new look to their entire lineup.
Yeah yeah, new labels, so what? Actually, back when Carpro hit the market 2010, the detailing market was vastly different. Firstly, there was less competition, especially at the premium end of the market. As more and more ceramic coating-based brands came to market, Carpro needed to ensure they stood out. The products spoke for themselves, but the way Carpro presented their brand was a breath of fresh air.
To start, they stepped away from the traditional bottle designs and the overly crowded, messing looking labels. In the early days, that meant clear plastic bottles teamed with a clean, simple and colour coded label layout. A few years later, they transitioned to a smoked semi-translucent bottle in 500ml and 1-litre sizes, as well as a unique 4-litre bottle. This coincided with a new label design that has been on the market until now.
Those outgoing labels were what drew me to the Carpro brand. It looked fresh, clean, easy to read and recognise. The form factor was high, backing up the functional excellence of the product itself. Brand presentation then became a priority within the industry, especially for companies aiming for the same pro-sumer customer. I'd also say with the introduction of these new brands, the fresh look won over younger detailing enthusiasts who wanted something more modern than what the high-sock Corvette crowd were using.
The second generation iBrid Nano was well overdue. The original was a pioneer in this sector, but its fallen behind as new interpretations have come along. I think the original was perfectly proportioned, especially the long neck type. The latest new Nano sees a significant improvement in a few key areas -
- Increased power and torque, to the point where it can handle significant downward pressure, which was a drawback of the original.
- The ability to fit the larger backing plate in rotary mode, the previous one was restricted to the small backing plate. There will also be a 3-inch adaptor in the future.
- Increased battery capacity. You can also use the previous generation batteries, just at reduced machine output. The original a/c power cord will work too.
- The quick-change head system is seriously impressive. The original was a pain to change the movement adaptors, a fiddly process that required using a special tool and a lock button on the head. These ones lock in place with a magnet.
I always loved the iBrid Nano for its slender form factor, something that wasn't achieved with the Flex PXE-80 and ShineMate EB210. The drawbacks were many, but overall it was the best of its type. But in 2025, the original Nano was well overdue for improvement.
I'm now taking bets as to how much the greedy Australian distributor will charge for the new Nano. The old one was only available in kit form in Australia, retailing at a ridicules $1100 for the short neck and $1150 for the long neck. My prediction, $1300.
- Increased power and torque, to the point where it can handle significant downward pressure, which was a drawback of the original.
- The ability to fit the larger backing plate in rotary mode, the previous one was restricted to the small backing plate. There will also be a 3-inch adaptor in the future.
- Increased battery capacity. You can also use the previous generation batteries, just at reduced machine output. The original a/c power cord will work too.
- The quick-change head system is seriously impressive. The original was a pain to change the movement adaptors, a fiddly process that required using a special tool and a lock button on the head. These ones lock in place with a magnet.
I always loved the iBrid Nano for its slender form factor, something that wasn't achieved with the Flex PXE-80 and ShineMate EB210. The drawbacks were many, but overall it was the best of its type. But in 2025, the original Nano was well overdue for improvement.
I'm now taking bets as to how much the greedy Australian distributor will charge for the new Nano. The old one was only available in kit form in Australia, retailing at a ridicules $1100 for the short neck and $1150 for the long neck. My prediction, $1300.
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STIHL EASY-2-START - A Blessing or a Curse?
Back in 2003, Stihl launched a new feature called Easy2Start™, also called Ergo-Start in some markets. The goal was to reduce the starting effort required to overcome the high compression of a 2-stroke engine. The main target being the homeowner machines, particularly for older customers who may not have the arm strength they once did.
The Easy-2-Start feature can be found on a variety of line trimmers, blowers, and chainsaws, usually commanding a $100 premium over the non-Ergo-Start models. The dead giveaway that a machine has this feature is the bulged starter housing, especially on the trimmers and chainsaws. The other giveaway being the naming sequence. Because Easy-2-Start is considered a "comfort feature", all models with this system will have C, C-E or C-BE within the model name. A few examples -
MS 251 vs MS 251 C-BE - In this case, you get two "comfort features", the Easy-2-Start system and the tool-less clutch cover. All chainsaws with Easy-2-Start also have a primer bulb, which compensates for the slower cranking speed. The price difference between the two is $100.
FS 45 vs FS 45 C-E - In this instance, the Easy-2-Start model carries a $50 price premium and an additional 200g (4.2 kg vs 4.4 kg), its otherwise identical to the basic FS 45.
The Easy-2-Start function works via an additional spring within the starter housing. The traditional recoil spring is still present, but the secondary spring acts as a rubber band, winding up tension as the rope is pulled, which is then released toward the top of the rope's extension, in turn spinning the engine over. This design only allows the engine to spin over at a set speed and requires a different starting approach.
To start an engine with Easy-2-Start, you don't need brute strength or speed. Simply pull the rope gently upwards and let the spring take over. This applies to all machines with this feature, from the chainsaws to trimmers to blowers.
The vast majority of models fitted with Easy-2-Start are the homeowner grade unit, primarily aimed at those with poor arm strength. Actually, as battery power has taken over, I wouldn't be surprised to see this feature disappearing as the petrol-powered homeowner machines become less and less popular. However, there are still a few instances where Easy-2-Start is available on top spec models, or when commercial users run the homeowner models. And this is where the "curse" creeps into the equation.
Many people treat these Easy-2-Start machines the same as any other small 2-stroke engine. In that I mean yanking on the rope with full force, usually via drop starting. This is silly because no matter how hard you pull the rope, that secondary spring will only allow the engine to spin at a set speed. So, that extra pulling force from the user transfers into the spring, which over time begins to distort and fatigue. Eventually, the spring will snap or take out the upper spool and dogs with it. I had a colleague who would attempt to yank the rope out of the blower every time he touched it, even after being told how to use it properly. I would watch and wince.
What a new spring looks like -
What a mangled spring looks like -
Back when Stihl last updated their BG-series leaf blowers, the top spec model got Easy-2-Start as standard. The BG 86C being their most powerful handheld blower, it became a go-to for the horticultural professional. So, even though the feature was aimed at homeowners, in the case of blowers, it was probably most used by the professional sector. And so began a string of frequent failures of the spring, and sometimes the whole starter assembly. It got to the point where Stihl began offering the 86 without the Easy-2-Start feature, simply called the BG 86. Actually, you can now no longer buy the BG 86C..................which says it all!
My latest blower is the regular BG 86, a targeted response after a series of spring assist failures from my older BG 86C's. Which brings me to today's job.....................
I have one of these machines permanently set up with the vacuum attachment. This is incredibly hard on these machines, the dust sucked up and filtered through the bag gets everywhere. I've replaced more parts on this blower than any other, from the pinched ignition wires, a blown-out fan housing, and most recently a new impeller fan.
The latest replacement being the starter. The rope would often free spin and not actually engage with the engine or trigger the assist spring. You'd have to pull the rope a few times before it would catch. It's been like this for a while now, but has become worse in recent times. So, I knew there was something wrong going on under the cover.
There are four ways to remedy a failed/failing assist spring -
1. Replace the spring. This will often fix it briefly, but WILL fail again. Replacing just the spring alone doesn't address the worn-out parts around it, often damaged due to that spring in the first place. These springs are about $20 each.
2. Replace the two-piece rotor, assist spring and dogs as a complete assembly. This ranges from $20 - $50 depending on where you get them.
3. Replace the entire starter housing. This is usually more successful because you have fresh components throughout. Think $50 - $130 for a replacement, which depends on if using aftermarket or OEM parts.
4. Delete the Easy-2-Start feature entirely, about $10 - $15 depending on source. I chose this method.....................
On the blowers, both starter types use the same housing. To delete the assist spring, all you need is the rotor from the non-Ergo-Start models, which simply slots in place and uses the same dogs and spring clip.
STIHL PART NUMBER - 4241 195 0400
The 3-piece Easy-2-Start type -
The standard type -
I've never attempted a starter repair before, so I was a little nervous about it. That mainly stemmed from the thought of disturbing the recoil spring at the bottom, which are a pain to reset if they become unseated.
For this job, that recoil spring is not removed, so just be ultra careful when removing the wire clip, dogs, rotors and assist spring by holding some pressure on it as you go. You then need to unwind the tension from the recoil spring by unhooking and winding the rope anticlockwise two or three turns.
The offending spring didn't look distorted or broken, so I'm not sure why it wasn't working properly.
The next sequence was what I was fretting about, reloading and reassembling the rotor, then re-tensioning the recoil spring. With the right video playing, I somehow followed along in real time and nailed it first go!
1. Prise and cut the rope knot from the original rotor, burn a new end.
2. Thread the rope into the new rotor, tie it off and pull it firmly in place.
3. Gently align the rotor notch with the recoil spring.
4. Refit the dogs, washer and spring clip. That clip will only work one way, so be sure to keep track of which way it went. Keeping some pressure on the assembly is a must to avoid a spring explosion!
5. Hook the rope into the notch on the side of the rotor, then pull the rope all the way into the housing. This then allows you to wind up the recoil spring by turning clockwise 5 - 6 turns.
6. While still holding onto the now tensioned rotor, unlatch the rope from the notch, pull it back out of the housing to be fully extended, then slowly allow the spring to draw the rope back into the rotor. Job done.
If all that sounds like gibberish, this was the video that guided me, which for some reason would allow me to embed into the post -
A quick test revealed a fixed recoil system. No more Easy-2-Start!! Forgive my indulgence, but I'm pretty proud of myself for doing this without a problem!
I've always hated the remoteness of the Easy-2-Start feature, as in you can't feel the compression of the engine against the rope. That might sound an odd thing to say, but you can often feel through the rope when an engine is about to catch and start. The spring assist removes that feel. On a blower or a trimmer, you really don't need Easy-2-Start, they are pretty "easy to start" without it. On the chainsaws, yeah it probably makes more sense as they are bigger engines with more compression.
Back in 2003, Stihl launched a new feature called Easy2Start™, also called Ergo-Start in some markets. The goal was to reduce the starting effort required to overcome the high compression of a 2-stroke engine. The main target being the homeowner machines, particularly for older customers who may not have the arm strength they once did.
The Easy-2-Start feature can be found on a variety of line trimmers, blowers, and chainsaws, usually commanding a $100 premium over the non-Ergo-Start models. The dead giveaway that a machine has this feature is the bulged starter housing, especially on the trimmers and chainsaws. The other giveaway being the naming sequence. Because Easy-2-Start is considered a "comfort feature", all models with this system will have C, C-E or C-BE within the model name. A few examples -
MS 251 vs MS 251 C-BE - In this case, you get two "comfort features", the Easy-2-Start system and the tool-less clutch cover. All chainsaws with Easy-2-Start also have a primer bulb, which compensates for the slower cranking speed. The price difference between the two is $100.
FS 45 vs FS 45 C-E - In this instance, the Easy-2-Start model carries a $50 price premium and an additional 200g (4.2 kg vs 4.4 kg), its otherwise identical to the basic FS 45.
The Easy-2-Start function works via an additional spring within the starter housing. The traditional recoil spring is still present, but the secondary spring acts as a rubber band, winding up tension as the rope is pulled, which is then released toward the top of the rope's extension, in turn spinning the engine over. This design only allows the engine to spin over at a set speed and requires a different starting approach.
To start an engine with Easy-2-Start, you don't need brute strength or speed. Simply pull the rope gently upwards and let the spring take over. This applies to all machines with this feature, from the chainsaws to trimmers to blowers.
The vast majority of models fitted with Easy-2-Start are the homeowner grade unit, primarily aimed at those with poor arm strength. Actually, as battery power has taken over, I wouldn't be surprised to see this feature disappearing as the petrol-powered homeowner machines become less and less popular. However, there are still a few instances where Easy-2-Start is available on top spec models, or when commercial users run the homeowner models. And this is where the "curse" creeps into the equation.
Many people treat these Easy-2-Start machines the same as any other small 2-stroke engine. In that I mean yanking on the rope with full force, usually via drop starting. This is silly because no matter how hard you pull the rope, that secondary spring will only allow the engine to spin at a set speed. So, that extra pulling force from the user transfers into the spring, which over time begins to distort and fatigue. Eventually, the spring will snap or take out the upper spool and dogs with it. I had a colleague who would attempt to yank the rope out of the blower every time he touched it, even after being told how to use it properly. I would watch and wince.
What a new spring looks like -
What a mangled spring looks like -
Back when Stihl last updated their BG-series leaf blowers, the top spec model got Easy-2-Start as standard. The BG 86C being their most powerful handheld blower, it became a go-to for the horticultural professional. So, even though the feature was aimed at homeowners, in the case of blowers, it was probably most used by the professional sector. And so began a string of frequent failures of the spring, and sometimes the whole starter assembly. It got to the point where Stihl began offering the 86 without the Easy-2-Start feature, simply called the BG 86. Actually, you can now no longer buy the BG 86C..................which says it all!
My latest blower is the regular BG 86, a targeted response after a series of spring assist failures from my older BG 86C's. Which brings me to today's job.....................
I have one of these machines permanently set up with the vacuum attachment. This is incredibly hard on these machines, the dust sucked up and filtered through the bag gets everywhere. I've replaced more parts on this blower than any other, from the pinched ignition wires, a blown-out fan housing, and most recently a new impeller fan.
The latest replacement being the starter. The rope would often free spin and not actually engage with the engine or trigger the assist spring. You'd have to pull the rope a few times before it would catch. It's been like this for a while now, but has become worse in recent times. So, I knew there was something wrong going on under the cover.
There are four ways to remedy a failed/failing assist spring -
1. Replace the spring. This will often fix it briefly, but WILL fail again. Replacing just the spring alone doesn't address the worn-out parts around it, often damaged due to that spring in the first place. These springs are about $20 each.
2. Replace the two-piece rotor, assist spring and dogs as a complete assembly. This ranges from $20 - $50 depending on where you get them.
3. Replace the entire starter housing. This is usually more successful because you have fresh components throughout. Think $50 - $130 for a replacement, which depends on if using aftermarket or OEM parts.
4. Delete the Easy-2-Start feature entirely, about $10 - $15 depending on source. I chose this method.....................
On the blowers, both starter types use the same housing. To delete the assist spring, all you need is the rotor from the non-Ergo-Start models, which simply slots in place and uses the same dogs and spring clip.
STIHL PART NUMBER - 4241 195 0400
The 3-piece Easy-2-Start type -
The standard type -
I've never attempted a starter repair before, so I was a little nervous about it. That mainly stemmed from the thought of disturbing the recoil spring at the bottom, which are a pain to reset if they become unseated.
For this job, that recoil spring is not removed, so just be ultra careful when removing the wire clip, dogs, rotors and assist spring by holding some pressure on it as you go. You then need to unwind the tension from the recoil spring by unhooking and winding the rope anticlockwise two or three turns.
The offending spring didn't look distorted or broken, so I'm not sure why it wasn't working properly.
The next sequence was what I was fretting about, reloading and reassembling the rotor, then re-tensioning the recoil spring. With the right video playing, I somehow followed along in real time and nailed it first go!
1. Prise and cut the rope knot from the original rotor, burn a new end.
2. Thread the rope into the new rotor, tie it off and pull it firmly in place.
3. Gently align the rotor notch with the recoil spring.
4. Refit the dogs, washer and spring clip. That clip will only work one way, so be sure to keep track of which way it went. Keeping some pressure on the assembly is a must to avoid a spring explosion!
5. Hook the rope into the notch on the side of the rotor, then pull the rope all the way into the housing. This then allows you to wind up the recoil spring by turning clockwise 5 - 6 turns.
6. While still holding onto the now tensioned rotor, unlatch the rope from the notch, pull it back out of the housing to be fully extended, then slowly allow the spring to draw the rope back into the rotor. Job done.
If all that sounds like gibberish, this was the video that guided me, which for some reason would allow me to embed into the post -
A quick test revealed a fixed recoil system. No more Easy-2-Start!! Forgive my indulgence, but I'm pretty proud of myself for doing this without a problem!
I've always hated the remoteness of the Easy-2-Start feature, as in you can't feel the compression of the engine against the rope. That might sound an odd thing to say, but you can often feel through the rope when an engine is about to catch and start. The spring assist removes that feel. On a blower or a trimmer, you really don't need Easy-2-Start, they are pretty "easy to start" without it. On the chainsaws, yeah it probably makes more sense as they are bigger engines with more compression.
Finally got this off my back, the Mustang's first service.
Servicing has become a major source of anxiety for me. Handing over the keys to something I've spent so much time, effort and mental capacity keeping a certain way, well it's become harder and harder for me to deal with. There have been far too many times when something has gone wrong via the careless actions of others, which are painful mental scars that I can do without.
This was top of mind when I elected to skip the 3-month / 3000km inspection. At the time, the car only had 900 km on the clock, and after speaking with the service manager, she basically said don't bother. She also explained that 3000 km inspection does not have any bearing on warranty. So, I skipped it. More on this shortly.
Now that I've had the car for 12-months, there was no escaping the 1-year / 15,000 km service. When I rolled up at 8.30 this morning, my salesman was there to greet me. He apparently noticed I was on the list and wanted to check in with me. When he asked who was working on the car, I said I wasn't sure, but I'd asked for a master tech. He then went to make sure a certain guy was put on it, which was a massive weight off my shoulders. The service adviser could see I was on edge too, when asked when I wanted the car back, I said ASAP, to which she said "yeah, I can see you are pretty anxious". It was that obvious.
When I explained skipping the 3000km inspection and the lack of kms on the car, my salesman insisted they stamp for both the inspection and todays 15,000km service. When I picked up the car, both had been filled out. This isn't them or me doctoring the books, just the reality of a very unusual situation where the car is 1-year old but hasn't even cleared the 3000km mark yet.
Also, I'm extremely grateful for what my salesman did today. He sold the car, his job was technically done. Especially 12-months after said sale. He knows my service department backstory, so I'm appreciative of the effort he put in, above and beyond what his job description entails. When we first me in 2022, he had been in the job just a few months. He's since earned himself several Ford sales awards, not just at a dealer level, but within the wider Ford brand. No doubt making sure his customers are looked after before, during and after delivery is key to that. Car salesman often get a bad rap, but not this one.
And finally, look who's back........................
Servicing has become a major source of anxiety for me. Handing over the keys to something I've spent so much time, effort and mental capacity keeping a certain way, well it's become harder and harder for me to deal with. There have been far too many times when something has gone wrong via the careless actions of others, which are painful mental scars that I can do without.
This was top of mind when I elected to skip the 3-month / 3000km inspection. At the time, the car only had 900 km on the clock, and after speaking with the service manager, she basically said don't bother. She also explained that 3000 km inspection does not have any bearing on warranty. So, I skipped it. More on this shortly.
Now that I've had the car for 12-months, there was no escaping the 1-year / 15,000 km service. When I rolled up at 8.30 this morning, my salesman was there to greet me. He apparently noticed I was on the list and wanted to check in with me. When he asked who was working on the car, I said I wasn't sure, but I'd asked for a master tech. He then went to make sure a certain guy was put on it, which was a massive weight off my shoulders. The service adviser could see I was on edge too, when asked when I wanted the car back, I said ASAP, to which she said "yeah, I can see you are pretty anxious". It was that obvious.
When I explained skipping the 3000km inspection and the lack of kms on the car, my salesman insisted they stamp for both the inspection and todays 15,000km service. When I picked up the car, both had been filled out. This isn't them or me doctoring the books, just the reality of a very unusual situation where the car is 1-year old but hasn't even cleared the 3000km mark yet.
Also, I'm extremely grateful for what my salesman did today. He sold the car, his job was technically done. Especially 12-months after said sale. He knows my service department backstory, so I'm appreciative of the effort he put in, above and beyond what his job description entails. When we first me in 2022, he had been in the job just a few months. He's since earned himself several Ford sales awards, not just at a dealer level, but within the wider Ford brand. No doubt making sure his customers are looked after before, during and after delivery is key to that. Car salesman often get a bad rap, but not this one.
And finally, look who's back........................
You described me to a tee as far as taking my 2016 5.0 Premium Performance Pack Mustang in for service.Finally got this off my back, the Mustang's first service.
Servicing has become a major source of anxiety for me. Handing over the keys to something I've spent so much time, effort and mental capacity keeping a certain way, well it's become harder and harder for me to deal with. There have been far too many times when something has gone wrong via the careless actions of others, which are painful mental scars that I can do without.
This was top of mind when I elected to skip the 3-month / 3000km inspection. At the time, the car only had 900 km on the clock, and after speaking with the service manager, she basically said don't bother. She also explained that 3000 km inspection does not have any bearing on warranty. So, I skipped it. More on this shortly.
Now that I've had the car for 12-months, there was no escaping the 1-year / 15,000 km service. When I rolled up at 8.30 this morning, my salesman was there to greet me. He apparently noticed I was on the list and wanted to check in with me. When he asked who was working on the car, I said I wasn't sure, but I'd asked for a master tech. He then went to make sure a certain guy was put on it, which was a massive weight off my shoulders. The service adviser could see I was on edge too, when asked when I wanted the car back, I said ASAP, to which she said "yeah, I can see you are pretty anxious". It was that obvious.
When I explained skipping the 3000km inspection and the lack of kms on the car, my salesman insisted they stamp for both the inspection and todays 15,000km service. When I picked up the car, both had been filled out. This isn't them or me doctoring the books, just the reality of a very unusual situation where the car is 1-year old but hasn't even cleared the 3000km mark yet.
Also, I'm extremely grateful for what my salesman did today. He sold the car, his job was technically done. Especially 12-months after said sale. He knows my service department backstory, so I'm appreciative of the effort he put in, above and beyond what his job description entails. When we first me in 2022, he had been in the job just a few months. He's since earned himself several Ford sales awards, not just at a dealer level, but within the wider Ford brand. No doubt making sure his customers are looked after before, during and after delivery is key to that. Car salesman often get a bad rap, but not this one.
And finally, look who's back........................
This car has NEVER been in the rain! Only 21000 miles. Yearly oil changes only so far. About 2300 (+or-) miles a year.
When I took the Mustang in for the first oil change, I asked for a senior tech and they said they had a tech that has his own Cobra.
The tech was really nice and took time to talk to me which put my mind as ease.
When I take my car in, I put blue painters tape on the bottom of the doors and sill to prevent scuffs. Also, a sheet on the seat for protection. I don't need someone with greasy work boots marking up my perfect car.
One time when I took the car in for its yearly oil change there was a "kid car jockey" there that was moving cars around in the bay where you check in for service. He was struggling to move my car, so I went up to him while he in my car and he said he really does not know how to drive a manual trans. I immediately told him to exit my car. I complained to the service adviser and said how can you have someone who is moving customer cars around that does not know how to drive a manual trans! Finally the tech that was going to work on my car moved it.
I totally understand!
Post-service wash on the Mustang today.
Wheels & Tires - Brake Buster for the rubber, Koch Chemie GSF for the wheels, Atom Mac for the rotors. Afterwards, the wheels got wiped down with Amplify and the tyres dressed with OG Tire Dressing.
Body - Washed using GSF, dried with the EGO and any remaining water drips taken care of with a towel and ADS Amplify. Door jambs dried using Amplify, likewise engine bay and exhaust tips. Glass via Koch Chemie RRW.
Interior - A very quick vacuum, a little Griots Interior Cleaner for the door sills, the touchscreen lightly wiped with Invisible Glass on a TRC FTW towel.
With the Mustang clean again, the rotation dictates it was time to be put back under a cover to allow something else to come out and play. This time, its Old Blue..................
The Falcon had sat in storage uncovered for 6-weeks, so it had a healthy layer of dust on it. I didn't feel like it needed a full wash, just a freshen. So, after an initial rinse, I foamed the whole car with Carpro Reset. While that soaked, I went around and scrubbed each tyre with Brake Buster. A thorough rinse followed before driving back into the garage and Atom Mac applied to the rotors. After blow down with the EGO, ADS Adapt and two TRC Gauntlet's finished things off.
From here, the door jambs and engine bay were dried with Adapt, the glass touched up with RRW. I then wiped the wheel faces with ECH20, followed by dressing the rubber with OG Tire Dressing. Finally, the driver's side was given a quick vac and the rubber floor mat cleaned with ONR.
I've always loved the look of this car when covered in foam, the outline of the headlights in particular.
The star players today, from left to right.................
- Obsessed Garage Tire Dressing
- Koch Chemie GSF
- Armour Detail Supply Adapt (for waterless wash/drying aid)
- Koch Chemie RRW (for glass)
- Armour Detail Supply Amplify (for drying aid)
Wheels & Tires - Brake Buster for the rubber, Koch Chemie GSF for the wheels, Atom Mac for the rotors. Afterwards, the wheels got wiped down with Amplify and the tyres dressed with OG Tire Dressing.
Body - Washed using GSF, dried with the EGO and any remaining water drips taken care of with a towel and ADS Amplify. Door jambs dried using Amplify, likewise engine bay and exhaust tips. Glass via Koch Chemie RRW.
Interior - A very quick vacuum, a little Griots Interior Cleaner for the door sills, the touchscreen lightly wiped with Invisible Glass on a TRC FTW towel.
With the Mustang clean again, the rotation dictates it was time to be put back under a cover to allow something else to come out and play. This time, its Old Blue..................
The Falcon had sat in storage uncovered for 6-weeks, so it had a healthy layer of dust on it. I didn't feel like it needed a full wash, just a freshen. So, after an initial rinse, I foamed the whole car with Carpro Reset. While that soaked, I went around and scrubbed each tyre with Brake Buster. A thorough rinse followed before driving back into the garage and Atom Mac applied to the rotors. After blow down with the EGO, ADS Adapt and two TRC Gauntlet's finished things off.
From here, the door jambs and engine bay were dried with Adapt, the glass touched up with RRW. I then wiped the wheel faces with ECH20, followed by dressing the rubber with OG Tire Dressing. Finally, the driver's side was given a quick vac and the rubber floor mat cleaned with ONR.
I've always loved the look of this car when covered in foam, the outline of the headlights in particular.
The star players today, from left to right.................
- Obsessed Garage Tire Dressing
- Koch Chemie GSF
- Armour Detail Supply Adapt (for waterless wash/drying aid)
- Koch Chemie RRW (for glass)
- Armour Detail Supply Amplify (for drying aid)
The main problem is the turnover of staff, and that applies to the service advisors and mechanics. For me, it makes it hard to strike up a repour if you end up with someone new each time.
At one point, there was a young/enthusiastic mechanic who worked on my XR8............even though I asked for an "experienced tech". The engine in those cars was quite unique and required a specific oil developed solely for it. This is very different to what the service department would see on a typical day, 98% being diesel Ranger's. Well, he turned out to be great, knew all about my car, what oil it took, acknowledged how clean and original mine was. The next time I was in there, with another car, they had put him inside as a service advisor instead. ******. At least he knew how particular I am and I felt safe in his hands. Within another few visits (I have 6 cars through that service department), he had left the company. Double ******. And so began another round of "training".
Frankly, I would hate working as a service advisor and I can see why there is so much turnover. When you think about it, they are the front line of a car company. In that I mean they first people you see after buying the car, and the same people you converse with if something goes wrong. I'd imagine they end up dealing with a lot of ticked off customers, even though the service advisor didn't make the car or cause it to break down. I couldn't handle that, I struggled enough with rude/unrealistic customers in retail.
Felt like going vintage today! In the 60's, 70's and 80's, this was the soundtrack to Aussie Saturday afternoons across the country. Not to mention the blue haze of 2-stroke drifting across the suburbs.
You can hear the engine revs fluctuate, that is me feathering the throttle and not an issue with the carburettor or ignition. These old girls use a very primitive carburettor and have NO governor, so it's up to the user to control the engine speed................or just run it wide open and all the time. Considering the age of it, I don't like running it at wipe open throttle without a load, even Victa recommended against doing that.
You can hear the engine revs fluctuate, that is me feathering the throttle and not an issue with the carburettor or ignition. These old girls use a very primitive carburettor and have NO governor, so it's up to the user to control the engine speed................or just run it wide open and all the time. Considering the age of it, I don't like running it at wipe open throttle without a load, even Victa recommended against doing that.
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Dug into my brochure vault and came across this one from SupaSwift. No date is published on this one, but going off the dealer sticker on the back page, I would have picked it up in about 2007 when shopping for a Victa Razor.
Where the majority of the current SupaSwift lineup uses stamped steel bases, but back then all "rear catcher mower chassis' are cast from aluminium......"
As you can see, I must have been considering the Lawn Cruiser 60, which shared the same Quantum XTS60 used on the Victa I was looking at. The pictured Lawn Cruiser has the XTS50. I ended up going for the Victa as it had a 19-inch instead of 18-inch cutting width.
You'll note that all mowers pictured feature a Briggs engine, however the back page shows a much wider selection of engine choices. The majority being Briggs & Stratton, but also Honda GCV160 and Tecumseh Prisma (Sprint/Quattro competitor) and Centura (Quantum competitor).
Of all of these mowers, I've always wanted a Big Bob. About 10 years ago, I was considering a Big Bob or Masport 530 Utility. My heart was saying Big Bob with the Honda GXV160, but the salesman steered me towards the Masport as they had a lot of Big Bob's coming back with cracked chassis mountings due to flex in the handles. The Masport had superior reinforcement, bigger wheels the big block Briggs 850. I still stand by my choice.
And finally, the back page also shows a model called Touch & Mow. This was based on the 18-inch Lawn Cruiser with the Quantum XM50 engine. The point of difference being a system Briggs & Stratton developed called Touch 'n' Mow. This used a ratcheting spring assembly that would wind up and store energy as the engine was shut down. That energy was released at the touch of a button to spin the engine over. This provided rope-free starting without the need for a battery and starter motor.
I always wondered what Touch 'n' Mow did until I watched a recent Taryl video. It would seem this "innovation" could be quite dangerous in the wrong hands, and noisy too.......................which would explain why it was short lived idea.
Where the majority of the current SupaSwift lineup uses stamped steel bases, but back then all "rear catcher mower chassis' are cast from aluminium......"
As you can see, I must have been considering the Lawn Cruiser 60, which shared the same Quantum XTS60 used on the Victa I was looking at. The pictured Lawn Cruiser has the XTS50. I ended up going for the Victa as it had a 19-inch instead of 18-inch cutting width.
You'll note that all mowers pictured feature a Briggs engine, however the back page shows a much wider selection of engine choices. The majority being Briggs & Stratton, but also Honda GCV160 and Tecumseh Prisma (Sprint/Quattro competitor) and Centura (Quantum competitor).
Of all of these mowers, I've always wanted a Big Bob. About 10 years ago, I was considering a Big Bob or Masport 530 Utility. My heart was saying Big Bob with the Honda GXV160, but the salesman steered me towards the Masport as they had a lot of Big Bob's coming back with cracked chassis mountings due to flex in the handles. The Masport had superior reinforcement, bigger wheels the big block Briggs 850. I still stand by my choice.
And finally, the back page also shows a model called Touch & Mow. This was based on the 18-inch Lawn Cruiser with the Quantum XM50 engine. The point of difference being a system Briggs & Stratton developed called Touch 'n' Mow. This used a ratcheting spring assembly that would wind up and store energy as the engine was shut down. That energy was released at the touch of a button to spin the engine over. This provided rope-free starting without the need for a battery and starter motor.
I always wondered what Touch 'n' Mow did until I watched a recent Taryl video. It would seem this "innovation" could be quite dangerous in the wrong hands, and noisy too.......................which would explain why it was short lived idea.
bluejeep
Well-known member
Cool video of the 2 cycle mower! Reminds me of my lawnboy mower days in the 70's
Geoff289
Well-known member
Yep, experienced all that.
PARKLANDER
Who remembers the Parklander brand? Or more to the point, have you ever heard of this brand? For today's brochure crypt find, two Parklander brochures I picked up in the early 2000's.
Parklander was a brand made by Parklands Power Products, which was based in Riverwood, NSW. Selling a variety of outdoor power equipment, the main focus was on a range of Australian made lawn mowers. And it's the Aussie-made factor that Parklander leant heavily on, the goal to give customers more for their money without compromising quality.
Also clearly Aussie influenced were the product names. On one hand, good on them for giving each model a name, something foreign to most brands who used alpha-numeric naming strategies, think Masport, Bushranger and Honda. However, I was never a fan of the goofy animal names Parklander went with. Names such as Joey, Little Roo, Big Roo, Emu, Wallaby, Possum, Wombat...............to me it sounded like a range of toys for children or a certain comedian who liked to dress up as a woman. "What new mower did you buy Stevo?".......... "Oh, a Little Possum"........... "A little what?" ..........................Which was a completely different story with Victa who echoed the car industry with names such as Mustang, Corvette, Bronco, Monaro (yes, there was a Victa Monaro, it even had the fancy Monaro lettering), Impala, Statesman, and Clubman.
Parklander machines overall were very well equipped. The range started with two 18-inch steel base models, then moved up to 18- and 19-inch alloy. At the time, the majority of Victa's range was 18-inch steel. All but the base model had zone starters, something Victa didn't offer at the time. There was also steel catcher flaps and height adjusters, Victa's used plastic there. And dual handle catchers to round things off.
Drawbacks? I didn't like how the mulch and catch models used a bar blade instead of swing backs. And there wasn't a single self-propel option in the range. Oh, and engine selection.....................
While they offered Briggs & Stratton, the majority of the Parklander lineup used Tecumseh engines. That includes the 156cc Prisma 40, 172cc Centura 40, and 195cc Centura 50 side-valve engines. There was also the OHV Magna Torque 65 commercial engine, think of it as a Briggs Intek competitor. And it wasn't just the 4-strokes, Parklander also used the 139cc Tecumseh 2-Stroke.
For whatever reason, I was never drawn to Tecumseh engines. I remember the salesman back then trying to convince me that these were better than the Briggs equivalent, apparently having superior lubrication and carburettor designs. He failed. To me, they looked cheap and awkwardly packaged. I also didn't like how the carburettor and intake sat right next to the muffler, perhaps that's why they are renowned for leaking fuel, baking next to a hot muffler wouldn't have helped the cause. And the air filter design was sub-par.
Parklander was a much smaller player in the industry, so every sale counted. They never went the big box store route to gain volume, and very few dealers carried the brand, probably because of a lack of marketing support. Sadly, the local dealer, Tecumseh and Parklands all suffered the same fate.....................
The first to go was the local Parklander dealer. When the owner couldn't find a buyer, the shop was closed for good 20-years ago.
Next was Tecumseh, who ceased engine production in 2008/2009. Several restarts and restructures were planned, but nothing ever came of it.
Parklander? From what I understand, the brand had been on the market for a few years as the owners geared up for retirement. Sadly, no buyer was found and early last year Parkland/Parklands was closed down for good. Another Aussie manufacturer down the drain.
Who remembers the Parklander brand? Or more to the point, have you ever heard of this brand? For today's brochure crypt find, two Parklander brochures I picked up in the early 2000's.
Parklander was a brand made by Parklands Power Products, which was based in Riverwood, NSW. Selling a variety of outdoor power equipment, the main focus was on a range of Australian made lawn mowers. And it's the Aussie-made factor that Parklander leant heavily on, the goal to give customers more for their money without compromising quality.
Also clearly Aussie influenced were the product names. On one hand, good on them for giving each model a name, something foreign to most brands who used alpha-numeric naming strategies, think Masport, Bushranger and Honda. However, I was never a fan of the goofy animal names Parklander went with. Names such as Joey, Little Roo, Big Roo, Emu, Wallaby, Possum, Wombat...............to me it sounded like a range of toys for children or a certain comedian who liked to dress up as a woman. "What new mower did you buy Stevo?".......... "Oh, a Little Possum"........... "A little what?"
..........................Which was a completely different story with Victa who echoed the car industry with names such as Mustang, Corvette, Bronco, Monaro (yes, there was a Victa Monaro, it even had the fancy Monaro lettering), Impala, Statesman, and Clubman.Parklander machines overall were very well equipped. The range started with two 18-inch steel base models, then moved up to 18- and 19-inch alloy. At the time, the majority of Victa's range was 18-inch steel. All but the base model had zone starters, something Victa didn't offer at the time. There was also steel catcher flaps and height adjusters, Victa's used plastic there. And dual handle catchers to round things off.
Drawbacks? I didn't like how the mulch and catch models used a bar blade instead of swing backs. And there wasn't a single self-propel option in the range. Oh, and engine selection.....................
While they offered Briggs & Stratton, the majority of the Parklander lineup used Tecumseh engines. That includes the 156cc Prisma 40, 172cc Centura 40, and 195cc Centura 50 side-valve engines. There was also the OHV Magna Torque 65 commercial engine, think of it as a Briggs Intek competitor. And it wasn't just the 4-strokes, Parklander also used the 139cc Tecumseh 2-Stroke.
For whatever reason, I was never drawn to Tecumseh engines. I remember the salesman back then trying to convince me that these were better than the Briggs equivalent, apparently having superior lubrication and carburettor designs. He failed.
To me, they looked cheap and awkwardly packaged. I also didn't like how the carburettor and intake sat right next to the muffler, perhaps that's why they are renowned for leaking fuel, baking next to a hot muffler wouldn't have helped the cause. And the air filter design was sub-par. Parklander was a much smaller player in the industry, so every sale counted. They never went the big box store route to gain volume, and very few dealers carried the brand, probably because of a lack of marketing support. Sadly, the local dealer, Tecumseh and Parklands all suffered the same fate.....................
The first to go was the local Parklander dealer. When the owner couldn't find a buyer, the shop was closed for good 20-years ago.
Next was Tecumseh, who ceased engine production in 2008/2009. Several restarts and restructures were planned, but nothing ever came of it.
Parklander? From what I understand, the brand had been on the market for a few years as the owners geared up for retirement. Sadly, no buyer was found and early last year Parkland/Parklands was closed down for good. Another Aussie manufacturer down the drain.
jon72vega
Well-known member
I once had a boss that had 10 of those traits.
What an a$$hole he was/is.
Wash day for the Wildtrak! It's been a few weeks since I've got my hands on this vehicle, so it was covered in road grime after a string of wet days. And it was perfect detailing weather today, not too hot, not too cold, no wind. With the music on, the very definition of bliss.
To start with, I removed the rubber floor mats and cleaned them with P&S Undressed, then followed with a light misting of P&S Swift before letting them dry while I got started on the rest of the car. Undressed was also used to deep clean the tyres, followed by foamed Brake Buster for the wheels and wheel arches. I then applied Koch Chemie Wet Gloss.
For the paint, I went with KCx Active Foam for the pre-wash. After a very thorough rinse, I foamed with Carpro Reset for the contact wash. The drying aid / topper today was Feynlab Hybrid Ceramic Detailer. I've featured this product before, and perhaps I didn't give it the full praise it clearly deserves. This would be one of the easiest of its type to use, in particular how quickly it flashes away to a streak free finish. The gloss and slickness are excellent too. Two things I would critique, I'm not crazy on the scent, not unlike the useless P&S Dream Maker, and the price is fairly steep in Australia, $42 for a 500ml bottle.
https://au.feynlab.com/product/feynlab-hybrid-ceramic-detailer/
Following that, I went with ECH20 for the door jambs and roller tonneau, glass via ADS Hero at 128:1. After a vacuum, I went in with Nextzett Cockpit Premium to wipe down the seats, door trims and dashboard. I tend to forget how nice this product is, especially how it wipes on and flashes away to leave a rich OEM finish. The low price point is impressive considering how capable it is. Again, my critique here would centre around the scent, namely the urinal-cake aroma. It's not a deal breaker, but if Nextzett changed the scent, Cockpit Premium would be almost perfect.
https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/products/nextzett-cockpit-premium-interior-plastic-cleaner-500ml
For the tyres, I wanted to go with ADS Ghost. Having cleaned the tyres with Undressed, they still needed a little more. In recent times I've used mineral spirits / mineral turps to deep clean larger profile tyres like this. Today though I went with Tarminator, which is the secret sauce. For whatever reason, Tarminator works much better than mineral spirits, requiring less product and less aggression with the towel to completely strip the tyre back to a bare surface. After that, I applied two layers of Ghost about 10-minutes apart. The tyre may look glossy here, but that's just how it appears on camera.
All done!
To start with, I removed the rubber floor mats and cleaned them with P&S Undressed, then followed with a light misting of P&S Swift before letting them dry while I got started on the rest of the car. Undressed was also used to deep clean the tyres, followed by foamed Brake Buster for the wheels and wheel arches. I then applied Koch Chemie Wet Gloss.
For the paint, I went with KCx Active Foam for the pre-wash. After a very thorough rinse, I foamed with Carpro Reset for the contact wash. The drying aid / topper today was Feynlab Hybrid Ceramic Detailer. I've featured this product before, and perhaps I didn't give it the full praise it clearly deserves. This would be one of the easiest of its type to use, in particular how quickly it flashes away to a streak free finish. The gloss and slickness are excellent too. Two things I would critique, I'm not crazy on the scent, not unlike the useless P&S Dream Maker, and the price is fairly steep in Australia, $42 for a 500ml bottle.
https://au.feynlab.com/product/feynlab-hybrid-ceramic-detailer/
Following that, I went with ECH20 for the door jambs and roller tonneau, glass via ADS Hero at 128:1. After a vacuum, I went in with Nextzett Cockpit Premium to wipe down the seats, door trims and dashboard. I tend to forget how nice this product is, especially how it wipes on and flashes away to leave a rich OEM finish. The low price point is impressive considering how capable it is. Again, my critique here would centre around the scent, namely the urinal-cake aroma. It's not a deal breaker, but if Nextzett changed the scent, Cockpit Premium would be almost perfect.
https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/products/nextzett-cockpit-premium-interior-plastic-cleaner-500ml
For the tyres, I wanted to go with ADS Ghost. Having cleaned the tyres with Undressed, they still needed a little more. In recent times I've used mineral spirits / mineral turps to deep clean larger profile tyres like this. Today though I went with Tarminator, which is the secret sauce. For whatever reason, Tarminator works much better than mineral spirits, requiring less product and less aggression with the towel to completely strip the tyre back to a bare surface. After that, I applied two layers of Ghost about 10-minutes apart. The tyre may look glossy here, but that's just how it appears on camera.
All done!
ajohno
Well-known member
The FGX is looking great mate.
FAKE IT TO YOU MAKE IT - TPE & COVERSTATES
For years, the benchmark commercial grade lawn mowers came from Honda. The HRU196 Buffalo Classic and HRU216 were prized for their rugged construction, long lived GXV160 engines and Australian-made credibility. The same applied to the premium consumer grade models such as the HRU19R Buffalo Buck, HRU197 Buffalo Bull, and HRU217D Buffalo Bull, which shared the same 19- and 21-inch chassis as the HRU196 and HRU217, but with the GCV/GSV OHC engines.
In my opinion, this was Honda's golden era. While the Aussie-made models remain, Honda went down market by introducing the American models for the Bunning's crowd. Sadly, those who buy the cheap Honda's come away quite disappointed, they were sold the dream but got a nightmare instead.
At some point in the early 2010's, Honda updated the premium/commercial range with a new rounded off deck design, fabric catchers, and new engine/blade brake safety systems. The range consisted of a similar spread of deck sizes and engines as before, GC and GS OHC for the pro-sumer models and the GXV160 for the professionals. However, I remember there being a lot of angst amongst the pro's about these new models. Clearly Honda picked up on this and actually brought back one of the pro favorite models, the GXV160 powered 19-inch HRU196 Heritage. This looked like the original 196 and featured a hard plastic catcher. However, this didn't address the 21-inch models, or the added blade and engine brake safety systems that many pro's complained about.
This is where the title of the post comes into the equation. After Honda discontinued the old 196/216 deck designs, various companies stepped in to fill the void by remaking and selling them under different brand names. I'm not sure how the deal worked out, as in did Honda sell off the chassis molds, or were they simply copied and made in China? Either way, consumers could once again buy these fabled Honda mowers.
The first that comes to mind is a company called TPE Power Equipment, of which I have two brochures from that time. Initially, this company started making mowers, but later added a range of Honda-powered handheld tools as well.
As you can see, these mowers are carbon copies of the Honda originals, they even used the same blade hardware, wheels, throttle controls, and all powered by the GXV160. From what I understand, parts were interchangeable with the genuine Honda items.
This next shot is from a second (later) brochure, which offered an expanded range, and a plastic catcher for the TN008H. But what's that? A Briggs & Stratton DOV engine on a Honda chassis? I bet they sold two fifths of fu.k all of those.
This next page shows the TPE range expanded to include 18-inch steel models. These were powered by Briggs & Stratton engines and based on the old Rover steel chassis, same as Bushranger and SupaSwift do.
TPE also offered utility mowers, the U-Mow Ute looks very much like a SupaSwift Big Bob.
A quick Google search reveals TPE no longer exists.
The next brand was called Coverstates. As per TPE, this company sold a range of tools, from trimmers to chainsaws, hedgers to multi-tools. Some of the range was Honda powered, some used a generic 2-stroke. Of the mowers, there were two model lines, the first of which being the Honda copies. As you can see, they used the same 19- and 21-inch bases paired with a GXV160 engine.
The second line looked incredibly cheap and chintzy, all powered by the old Briggs L-Head engines.
As per TPE, it would appear Coverstates no longer exists.
At the moment, you can still buy these old Honda's from a company called DMC Mowers. Again, the brand exists primarily for those Honda copies but with a range of supporting products too. Again, these are carbon copies of the 19- and 21-inch Honda's, they even make and sell spare parts. Interestingly, they will even sell you a bare 19-inch chassis for $189.
https://www.dmcmowersaustralia.com.au/
https://www.dmcmowersaustralia.com....is-suits-hru195-hru196-lawnmower-chassis.html
https://www.dmcmowersaustralia.com....ine-mulch-or-catch-19-inch-solid-catcher.html
https://www.dmcmowersaustralia.com.au/lawnmowers/self-propelled-mower/self-propelled-mower.html
Considering how basic and dated the website looks, and the slashed prices, I suspect DMC are heading in the same direction as TPE and Coverstates went.
For years, the benchmark commercial grade lawn mowers came from Honda. The HRU196 Buffalo Classic and HRU216 were prized for their rugged construction, long lived GXV160 engines and Australian-made credibility. The same applied to the premium consumer grade models such as the HRU19R Buffalo Buck, HRU197 Buffalo Bull, and HRU217D Buffalo Bull, which shared the same 19- and 21-inch chassis as the HRU196 and HRU217, but with the GCV/GSV OHC engines.
In my opinion, this was Honda's golden era. While the Aussie-made models remain, Honda went down market by introducing the American models for the Bunning's crowd. Sadly, those who buy the cheap Honda's come away quite disappointed, they were sold the dream but got a nightmare instead.
At some point in the early 2010's, Honda updated the premium/commercial range with a new rounded off deck design, fabric catchers, and new engine/blade brake safety systems. The range consisted of a similar spread of deck sizes and engines as before, GC and GS OHC for the pro-sumer models and the GXV160 for the professionals. However, I remember there being a lot of angst amongst the pro's about these new models. Clearly Honda picked up on this and actually brought back one of the pro favorite models, the GXV160 powered 19-inch HRU196 Heritage. This looked like the original 196 and featured a hard plastic catcher. However, this didn't address the 21-inch models, or the added blade and engine brake safety systems that many pro's complained about.
This is where the title of the post comes into the equation. After Honda discontinued the old 196/216 deck designs, various companies stepped in to fill the void by remaking and selling them under different brand names. I'm not sure how the deal worked out, as in did Honda sell off the chassis molds, or were they simply copied and made in China? Either way, consumers could once again buy these fabled Honda mowers.
The first that comes to mind is a company called TPE Power Equipment, of which I have two brochures from that time. Initially, this company started making mowers, but later added a range of Honda-powered handheld tools as well.
As you can see, these mowers are carbon copies of the Honda originals, they even used the same blade hardware, wheels, throttle controls, and all powered by the GXV160. From what I understand, parts were interchangeable with the genuine Honda items.
This next shot is from a second (later) brochure, which offered an expanded range, and a plastic catcher for the TN008H. But what's that? A Briggs & Stratton DOV engine on a Honda chassis? I bet they sold two fifths of fu.k all of those.
This next page shows the TPE range expanded to include 18-inch steel models. These were powered by Briggs & Stratton engines and based on the old Rover steel chassis, same as Bushranger and SupaSwift do.
TPE also offered utility mowers, the U-Mow Ute looks very much like a SupaSwift Big Bob.
A quick Google search reveals TPE no longer exists.
The next brand was called Coverstates. As per TPE, this company sold a range of tools, from trimmers to chainsaws, hedgers to multi-tools. Some of the range was Honda powered, some used a generic 2-stroke. Of the mowers, there were two model lines, the first of which being the Honda copies. As you can see, they used the same 19- and 21-inch bases paired with a GXV160 engine.
The second line looked incredibly cheap and chintzy, all powered by the old Briggs L-Head engines.
As per TPE, it would appear Coverstates no longer exists.
At the moment, you can still buy these old Honda's from a company called DMC Mowers. Again, the brand exists primarily for those Honda copies but with a range of supporting products too. Again, these are carbon copies of the 19- and 21-inch Honda's, they even make and sell spare parts. Interestingly, they will even sell you a bare 19-inch chassis for $189.
https://www.dmcmowersaustralia.com.au/
https://www.dmcmowersaustralia.com....is-suits-hru195-hru196-lawnmower-chassis.html
https://www.dmcmowersaustralia.com....ine-mulch-or-catch-19-inch-solid-catcher.html
https://www.dmcmowersaustralia.com.au/lawnmowers/self-propelled-mower/self-propelled-mower.html
Considering how basic and dated the website looks, and the slashed prices, I suspect DMC are heading in the same direction as TPE and Coverstates went.
A few years ago, I helped a former colleague buy a new mower. In the end a Victa Corvette 300 was chosen, specifically the Corvette 675 for its larger 163cc engine. Coming from a Quantum powered 90's Victa, this was effectively a like for like replacement as both share the same steel deck and roughly 5hp engines.
I've since been maintaining it for her with a yearly oil and filter changes. Last night I got a rather worried message that the mower was vibrating badly and making a lot of extra noise. This happened after attempting to load it into the van, which had slipped and hit the pavement with some force. Now, vibration and noise like she had described typically means a bent crankshaft. But how? The mower landed on its wheels and from what I can tell didn't strike anything on the way down. Not being sure that I could actually do anything about a bent crankshaft, nonetheless I said I'd take a look.
I picked it up this morning, brought it home and fired the engine up. Sure enough, the thing was vibrating and dancing around like a drunk, and on full throttle it sure was noisy! I have to say, I though at this point it was done for. But again, how?
With the front wheels in the air, I noticed two of the blades had been folded back and jammed up on the blade disk. Normally, these will fling back via centrical force when running or can be folded back out by hand. Not on this occasion. I had to free the offending blades from the carrier with a ball pein hammer. Wheels back on the deck and fired up, the vibration was gone!
From here, I raised the deck back up and measured each blade at a reference point to see if it had affected the carrier and crankshaft, but I could only detect minor variance, most likely from the wear on the blades. I decided that I may as well change the blades while I had it. These were the originals, and while they could probably have been let go, I wanted to rule out the possibility they got bent during the fall. In any case, fresh blades for the spring/summer season wouldn't be a bad thing.
I always clean the bolt mounting points with a wire brush at every blade change, which ensures no resistance for the new hardware. I also like to go over the disk with a scraper to remove dirt and grass that builds up over time.
At this point, I assumed I'd have to pop out to pick up a set of blades. These later 18-inch mulching models use a longer blade than earlier 4-blade setups, as well as the standard 2-blade oval disk. As such, I only carry the short blades. Well, turns out I did have a set of blades in stock, genuine Victa as well. From 2013, Victa began using the same 19-inch blade spec on the mulch & catch 18-inch models, which is facilitated by a smaller disk. I'd say they do this to reduce drag on the smaller engines being used these days. Said 19-inch blades I had set aside for my Mustang's.
Victa - CA09470B (2 blade & bolt set)
With the blades back on, I thought about giving the engine an oil change, but it still looked fresh, so I left it alone. The air filters were given a blow out and reinstalled. A test run and it was ready for return.
I still can't figure out how the blades ended up like that, particularly how the mower would have landed as it fell. But because the two folded in blades were side by side, it created an imbalance compared to if one or opposing sides had folded. Either way, I'm glad I was able to fix it as I'm not sure what would have happened if it was the crankshaft. My former colleague got lucky on this one!
I've since been maintaining it for her with a yearly oil and filter changes. Last night I got a rather worried message that the mower was vibrating badly and making a lot of extra noise. This happened after attempting to load it into the van, which had slipped and hit the pavement with some force. Now, vibration and noise like she had described typically means a bent crankshaft. But how? The mower landed on its wheels and from what I can tell didn't strike anything on the way down. Not being sure that I could actually do anything about a bent crankshaft, nonetheless I said I'd take a look.
I picked it up this morning, brought it home and fired the engine up. Sure enough, the thing was vibrating and dancing around like a drunk, and on full throttle it sure was noisy! I have to say, I though at this point it was done for. But again, how?
With the front wheels in the air, I noticed two of the blades had been folded back and jammed up on the blade disk. Normally, these will fling back via centrical force when running or can be folded back out by hand. Not on this occasion. I had to free the offending blades from the carrier with a ball pein hammer. Wheels back on the deck and fired up, the vibration was gone!
From here, I raised the deck back up and measured each blade at a reference point to see if it had affected the carrier and crankshaft, but I could only detect minor variance, most likely from the wear on the blades. I decided that I may as well change the blades while I had it. These were the originals, and while they could probably have been let go, I wanted to rule out the possibility they got bent during the fall. In any case, fresh blades for the spring/summer season wouldn't be a bad thing.
I always clean the bolt mounting points with a wire brush at every blade change, which ensures no resistance for the new hardware. I also like to go over the disk with a scraper to remove dirt and grass that builds up over time.
At this point, I assumed I'd have to pop out to pick up a set of blades. These later 18-inch mulching models use a longer blade than earlier 4-blade setups, as well as the standard 2-blade oval disk. As such, I only carry the short blades. Well, turns out I did have a set of blades in stock, genuine Victa as well. From 2013, Victa began using the same 19-inch blade spec on the mulch & catch 18-inch models, which is facilitated by a smaller disk. I'd say they do this to reduce drag on the smaller engines being used these days. Said 19-inch blades I had set aside for my Mustang's.
Victa - CA09470B (2 blade & bolt set)
With the blades back on, I thought about giving the engine an oil change, but it still looked fresh, so I left it alone. The air filters were given a blow out and reinstalled. A test run and it was ready for return.
I still can't figure out how the blades ended up like that, particularly how the mower would have landed as it fell. But because the two folded in blades were side by side, it created an imbalance compared to if one or opposing sides had folded. Either way, I'm glad I was able to fix it as I'm not sure what would have happened if it was the crankshaft. My former colleague got lucky on this one!
A very fast turnaround from the guys at Waxit!
For this year's Waxit Black Friday sale, I went a little berserk! In defence, I had been holding off ordering some of this until the sale kicked off.
- Carpro Reset is a high use soap for me. At $134.95, it's always expensive in 4-litre containers. I probably can't quote the price I paid for it this time as the 20% sale discount applies to a trade price that I'm lucky to get, but it was quite the saving.
- The same applies to NV Purge, especially after a recent price hike. Purge is the only dedicated wheel cleaner I bother with now. Some of its rivals work the same or worse but cost more, so I just stick with Purge.
- I also needed a good bulk soap, something more affordable than Reset and GSF. I had been waiting on another brands soap to return to stock, but it's been months now and I needed something right away. Frankly, the quality of NV Snow cannot be beaten at this price.
- KCx Active Foam and GSF are always a pleasure to use. This sale brings them back to the price they were when Waxit took over earlier in the year.
- I've been using the pre-mixed Hydr02 Lite for a while now as I found mixing my own via the concentrate to be a little unstable. I've since found out that Hydr02 Lite is effectively made at a 1:9 ratio, so I'll give that a go and see if it solves the issues I had when mixed at 1:6.
- The green liquid with a handwritten Wise Guy label was on clearance due to a batch of missing labels. Considering I mix it up in bulk, the lack of label doesn't bother me.
- The price of the 1-litre measuring cups was too good to ignore. Always handy to have, these will probably get used for machinery maintenance rather than detailing.
- The Solution Finish had been out of stock for months, and my bottle was nearly empty. ADS Trim+ has probably replaced this product for longer-term trim restoration, but for whatever reason, I think Solution Finish is the safer.
- The Carpro Dilute bottles I use for back-to-back product testing and easy dilution ratio calculations. These come with normal Carpro spray heads.
- Finally, a new product from Carpro, the Finger Print wheel mitt. These use the same fibres as the benchmark Dab Dab wash pads, but are smaller than the virtually useless Wheels Mitt. At about 15cm x 15cm, these are similar in concept to the TRC Ultra Wheel Mitt and ideal for intricate wheel spokes. So far, I haven't seen much content on this wash mitt.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-fingerprint-mini-wheel-mitt?_pos=3&_sid=386279be8&_ss=r
For this year's Waxit Black Friday sale, I went a little berserk! In defence, I had been holding off ordering some of this until the sale kicked off.
- Carpro Reset is a high use soap for me. At $134.95, it's always expensive in 4-litre containers. I probably can't quote the price I paid for it this time as the 20% sale discount applies to a trade price that I'm lucky to get, but it was quite the saving.
- The same applies to NV Purge, especially after a recent price hike. Purge is the only dedicated wheel cleaner I bother with now. Some of its rivals work the same or worse but cost more, so I just stick with Purge.
- I also needed a good bulk soap, something more affordable than Reset and GSF. I had been waiting on another brands soap to return to stock, but it's been months now and I needed something right away. Frankly, the quality of NV Snow cannot be beaten at this price.
- KCx Active Foam and GSF are always a pleasure to use. This sale brings them back to the price they were when Waxit took over earlier in the year.
- I've been using the pre-mixed Hydr02 Lite for a while now as I found mixing my own via the concentrate to be a little unstable. I've since found out that Hydr02 Lite is effectively made at a 1:9 ratio, so I'll give that a go and see if it solves the issues I had when mixed at 1:6.
- The green liquid with a handwritten Wise Guy label was on clearance due to a batch of missing labels. Considering I mix it up in bulk, the lack of label doesn't bother me.
- The price of the 1-litre measuring cups was too good to ignore. Always handy to have, these will probably get used for machinery maintenance rather than detailing.
- The Solution Finish had been out of stock for months, and my bottle was nearly empty. ADS Trim+ has probably replaced this product for longer-term trim restoration, but for whatever reason, I think Solution Finish is the safer.
- The Carpro Dilute bottles I use for back-to-back product testing and easy dilution ratio calculations. These come with normal Carpro spray heads.
- Finally, a new product from Carpro, the Finger Print wheel mitt. These use the same fibres as the benchmark Dab Dab wash pads, but are smaller than the virtually useless Wheels Mitt. At about 15cm x 15cm, these are similar in concept to the TRC Ultra Wheel Mitt and ideal for intricate wheel spokes. So far, I haven't seen much content on this wash mitt.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-fingerprint-mini-wheel-mitt?_pos=3&_sid=386279be8&_ss=r
It's strange to see myself in action like that.
I had someone yesterday comment that I could probably do that job while blindfolded, that there was "a lot of muscle memory at work there". I'd say that I'm like that with rose pruning as well. When I'm instructing or having someone watch me work, they get flummoxed with how fast and efficient I can do tasks like this. In reality, it's simply a case of cleaning countless wheels over a long period, or 20+ years pruning roses.