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Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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D.F.B

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The Mustang has been on errand duty for several weeks. So today I wanted to give it a wash and swap out the XR6.

For the wheels and tyres, I went with Brake Buster, HydrO2 and Atom Mac. I then washed with Carpro Reset and a Microfiber Madness DeliPad. Drying Aid was Amplify, including the door jambs, engine bay, wheels and exhaust tips. Glass was via Tru Vue, then OG Tire Dressing for the rubber.

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For the interior, I wiped down with a little Griot's Interior Cleaner. I also wanted to reapply ColourLock Leather Shield to the driver's seat, steering wheel, centre console lid, hand brake, gear selector, and driver's door panel. I didn't scrub with a leather cleaner beforehand, just a quick wipe with Griots was enough.

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Clean once more, ready for a rest under its cover.
 
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D.F.B

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The China Syndrome –
How does the cheapest chainsaw on Amazon stack up?


I don't normally do this sort of thing — I'm a brand snob to the core. I learned the hard way that buying cheap is a one-way ticket to disappointment. Not buying the tool you actually want only leads to regret, and quite often you end up going back for the more expensive option anyway, compounding the cost. So, buy the tool you want, then look after it.

So, what am I doing buying the cheapest chainsaw currently listed on Amazon? Mostly curiosity — how bad could it be? My current collection covers the bases pretty well: a battery-powered MS 140C for quick cuts and pruning, an inherited 009L and 028 AV Super, and the big dog, the MS 500i. What I don't have is a top handle — ideally balanced for pruning and tree work. So, I'm killing two birds with one stone: filling that gap in the collection, but honestly, mostly to see what you actually get for such a small outlay.

Exploring The Amazon

A quick search turned up a candidate from H-YEEU. Yeah, I've never heard of that brand either — and chances are, in a year's time H-YEEU will be replaced by another meaningless name on the exact same chainsaw. That's just how it works.

For the grand sum of $71.99 with free shipping, you get a saw with this snappy name:

"25.4CC Gas Chainsaw with 10-Inch Bar – High-Performance 2-Cycle Handheld Saw for Firewood, Tree Trimming & Landscaping (900W, 9800 RPM, LowVib Technology)"

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0GTQ7B8XH?smid=A5RYBF8CDL2XL&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1

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During my research I came across a lot of cheap garden tools like this, and what stood out was the quality of the product descriptions. I'm not sure who writes this stuff, but it's certainly not someone who gives two hoots about chainsaws or gardening. It reads like it was written for the wilfully uninformed. They're especially adamant this saw is up to the task of pruning — shrubs in particular:

"This chainsaw is extremely sharp for cutting branches, twigs, shrubs, shrubs, and trees. Suitable for sawing, pruning, pruning, pruning wood. It is an ideal tool for gardening, woodworking and landscaping."

The product images are good for a laugh too.

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I'm not sure how much "logging" you'll be doing with a 10-inch top handle chainsaw.

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Wohah, that's a big notch being cut. Notice how they've flipped the image to have the clutch side facing the cut.

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An imported chain? What does that mean? Imported from where? India? Thailand? It certainly wouldn't be from Germany or the USA.

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"Oil can choose ordinary oil".........ok then.

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Good to know the machine can "prevent burning".

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That sounds like a high tech starting system, my $2000 500i doesn't come with a frost resistant starter, ripped off!

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All of which does make you wonder — if they can't string together a coherent product description, how safe and effective is this thing actually going to be?
 
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D.F.B

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Unboxing & What You Get –

So what does $71.99 get you? The core of the unit is a 25.4cc 2-stroke engine that delivers 0.9 kW and a top speed of 9800 rpm. The engine is fed by “air injection centrifugal air cleaning”, and is started with a “heat and frost resistant steel sheet spring rope wheel”…………in English that’s a recoil starter rope. H-YEEU also say the saw was “designed with LowVib technology to significantly reduce vibration and user fatigue during extended use”. You get a 10-inch bar with “automatic oiling” that “protects the chain”. Actually, they claim it has an adjustable oiler.


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I'm under no illusions that this $72 chainsaw is going to be the best there ever was. The problem with cheap tools is that so many people buy them and then convince themselves they're fine — it's easier than admitting you were just too tight to buy the right one. That might come off as harsh or elitist, but it's true.

Nobody buys these things because they want to. They buy them because they think they have to.

I've watched others go down the "that'll do" path plenty of times, and it usually ends with me being the one who has to actually use the thing. You end up resenting both the tool and the person who bought it — especially when you know full well they didn't actually save any money. Not when someone's paying me by the hour to wrestle with gear that barely works.

So yes, my opening take is a harsh one — but I've earned it.
 
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D.F.B

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First Impressions -

At first glance, this saw has everything you'd want and expect. Look closer and things start to unravel.

The plastics are brittle garbage — that thin, shiny kind that feels cheap and poorly fitted from the moment you touch it. The fuel and oil caps will crack in no time, and the retaining tabs inside the tank are too short, making filling a chore. Amusingly, they include spare throttle and choke levers in the box. Make of that what you will.

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Products like this are aimed squarely at the novice, hence the bag full of tools, including an abysmally bad sharpening file.

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It's up to the customer to finish the assembly, the dogs are threaded into plastic with self-tappers. Yeah, that's going to last. And check out the amount of tolerance factored into the bottom bolt hole.

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This saw has an outboard clutch and chain brake, which isn't my preference, but I've dealt with that before on the 009L. And this is where my patience ran out.

With an outboard clutch setup, you'd typically expect a front-mounted chain tensioner on the saw body. So why — WHY — would they fit a side-mounted tensioner to the clutch cover? Getting the rear of the cover seated, slotting the brake band over the clutch, clearing the bar stud, and aligning the tensioner into the bar slot, all at once, was a nightmare. It took far longer than it should have. If it's that hard for someone with chainsaw experience, how on earth would the novice fare?

Worse, once the bar was installed, the cover wouldn't sit flush — the bar is simply too thick. That's not just an annoyance. That's a safety issue. At this point, I was starting to genuinely hate this thing.

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As mentioned earlier, this saw is supposed to have an adjustable oiler — like a pro-grade Stihl. Sure enough, there's an oil adjustment symbol on the underside of the saw. No slot to actually turn it with a screwdriver, though. Not surprised.

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Once assembled — which the marketing material promises is quick and easy — I filled it with oil and fuel. H-YEEU recommend a 25:1 mix, which I ignored. It's not 1990, so I ran my usual Stihl HP Ultra at 50:1. With the carb primed and choke on, the engine popped on the third pull. One more pull with the choke off and it was running. It took a moment to settle, but quickly found a smooth idle.

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And then the kicker: the chain brake doesn't work. The engine will accelerate straight through it. That is not okay. You can forgive cheap plastics. You cannot forgive that.

Am I being harsh? Yes and no. I'm coming from German and Swedish tools built to a certain standard, and I'm aware that colours my view. But here's the thing — people who buy cheap tools often have no idea how large the gap really is between something like this and a Stihl or Husqvarna. And I don't just mean how it looks and feels, but functionality, usability, work efficiency, and above all, safety.

At $72 versus $700, you can't reasonably complain about material quality. Better plastics, rubberised grips, and precisely fitted parts cost money — that's just the reality. But you can absolutely complain about safety. If Stihl and Husqvarna are held to a safety standard, everyone selling into the same market should be too. A non-functioning chain brake isn't just a quality issue, it's a dealbreaker.

As for the price gap itself, it's multi-faceted. Yes, you pay a brand premium — that's true of any consumer product and always will be. But the rest of that gap buys you a genuinely better tool in every meaningful dimension: better materials, safer operation, easier maintenance, and longer service life. Add dealer support — servicing, spare parts, warranty — and the picture gets clearer still. Where do you take this saw when it breaks down? Are parts even available? No. You bin it and start again. And if it fails catastrophically and puts you in hospital, who's picking up that bill? Someone in a warehouse in China? Amazon?

From here, I'll be putting it through its paces and seeing how it stacks up against the other saws in the collection.
 
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D.F.B

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hmm seems brave given your concerns, good luck

The plan was to buy it, make some content with it, then sell it off cheap. However, unlike the Chinese and Amazon, I wouldn't feel comfortable selling it to someone with a defective safety feature. In reality, it should be returned.
 
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D.F.B

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Comparison with the Competition -

My first look at the H-YEEU immediately brought ECHO to mind — specifically the CS-2511 TES and CS-280 TES. In my opinion, ECHO make the best petrol-powered top handle saws on the market, so at least H-YEEU had the good sense to clone the right ones.

https://www.echo-australia.com.au/en_au/products/chain-saws/top-handle-chain-saw/cs-280tes_37

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Other high-end sub-30cc top handles worth mentioning are the Stihl MS 151 TC-E and the Husqvarna T525.

https://www.stihl.com.au/en/p/chainsaws-ms-151-tc-e-petrol-chainsaw-102617#ms-151-tc-e-102617
https://www.husqvarna.com/au/chainsaws/t525/

I'll acknowledge that this Amazon saw probably isn't in direct competition with saws from Stihl, Husqvarna, or ECHO. Anyone considering a sub-$100 chainsaw is unlikely to be weighing it against something seven times the price. But these clones are clearly influenced by what the established players are building, and being a spreadsheet guy, I thought it would be interesting to see exactly how the H-YEEU stacks up on paper.

I included not only the ECHO, Stihl, and Husqvarna benchmarks, but also the battery-powered Stihl MS 140C from my own collection, plus another contender I'll cover shortly. The pattern is clear enough — the higher quality tools deliver more power, higher revs, and less weight. The Amazon saw's 25:1 mix requirement is worth noting too; either it's playing it safe for occasional users, or the engine quality is poor enough that it needs the extra oil just to survive the warranty period. The battery Stihl is interesting because its electric motor produces the same power output as the 25.4cc H-YEEU — which says something about both.

(Prices are in AUD)

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This H-YEEU is the same saw rebranded and sold under countless names at wildly varying prices — Huyosen, Aowei, GTP, Patelo, Vevor, Temu, to name a few — ranging from $115 to $180. You'd be pretty annoyed discovering you paid $180 for a $72 chainsaw.

Bunnings are in on it too. The exact same saw is sold there under the Cheetah name — a product Victa supplies to Bunnings to hit a price point without putting the Victa badge on something like this. Granted, you get a 12-inch bar, but is otherwise identical. So how much does Bunnings charge for a $72 chainsaw? $155. How does the jingle go, "lowest prices are just the beginning" — well, clearly not in this case. It also tells you just how much margin is baked into this stuff when Amazon can sell the same saw for less than half of what Bunnings does.

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One more discovery after working through the owner's manual — the chain is supposed to be Oregon, which is probably the best component on the saw. The manual also recommends 10W-30 motor oil for bar lubrication, which in my view is too thin; it won't stay on the chain at full speed. For reference, the LD-M7 spark plug crosses with an NGK BPM7A or Champion CJ8.

Coming up next — what entry-level saw would I actually recommend? It might not be what you're expecting.
 

customh

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Coming up next — what entry-level saw would I actually recommend? It might not be what you're expecting.

If you're true to your roots it'll be a Stihl. Not sure what our definition of "entry-level" is though :ROFLMAO:

My opinion would be to buy a decent battery saw first, unless you're cutting a pickup-load of firewood. I'm curious to see what you recommend though!
 
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D.F.B

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If you're true to your roots it'll be a Stihl. Not sure what our definition of "entry-level" is though :ROFLMAO:

My opinion would be to buy a decent battery saw first, unless you're cutting a pickup-load of firewood. I'm curious to see what you recommend though!

Spot on! (y)
 
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It's taken a month and lot of dead ends, but I finally have a new(er) set of wheels for the Rover Craftsman.

Last time I bought Rover wheels, I had several outlets offering exactly what I wanted.

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This time, I had a lot of trouble getting what I needed.

So, new OEM Rover wheels are getting thin on the ground. No problem I thought, the aftermarket will have me covered. GA Spares have supplied aftermarket Rover wheels for decades now, but even they are getting harder to find now. This is where it got confusing.

The OEM part numbers I needed were A03337 or A10620 for the 6.5-inch fronts, and A03320 or A010621 for the 7.5-inch rears. That then translates to GA Spares with WWP6827 and WWP6829..............which are NLA as well. But then I found another set of numbers for wheels that look exactly the same, WWP1522 for the fronts and WWP1523 rears. Great, lets go!

While the second set of numbers, WWP1522 and WWP1523, are indeed available still................. the signature Rover hub caps do not fit. That's because the "sidewall" are taller on the OEM spec, the later versions are low profile, meaning the hub cap isn't big enough to cover the spokes. Of course, I found this out AFTER messing about with at three suppliers.

Incorrect on the left, OEM on the right.

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Now, if I wasn't so particular in staying OEM (or OEM-like), I could just run those new wheels without the hub caps and call it good. But that's not how I roll. So, I tracked down some used wheels meeting the correct A03337/A03320 or WWP6827/WWP6829 spec. Fast forward a month, I now have two rears and four fronts to choose from.

Being used, they have a few nicks and scrapes, and were naturally quite dirty. But, they have tread and came with bearings and rear dust caps. I decided to give them a good clean using Shine Supply Wise guy and a tyre brush, then hit them with the pressure washer paired using the turbo nozzle.

From here, I did my Tarminator trick to clean the "sidewalls", then wiped down with IPA. Clean and dry, I applied some Solution Finish to restore the black "sidewall" and treads.

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The difference between new and used in terms of blackness is marginal after treatment with Solution Finish.

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Overall, they came up great for used mower wheels. I have some NOS chrome hubcaps to complete the look once fitted to the mower.
 
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D.F.B

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Bought a new TV today. I went up a couple of sizes but showed restraint in not buying one of the massive trophy TVs people seem obsessed with lately. Not sure if it's just me, but I find them disorienting.

I went shopping for an LG or Samsung and landed on a 43-inch LG QNED evo AI QNED80. I'd considered the 50-inch and briefly wondered if I'd made the wrong call, but once it was out of the box at home, I was glad I stayed modest. An unprompted $150 discount was a nice bonus too.

https://www.lg.com/au/tv-soundbars/qned-evo-tv/43qned80bsa/

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I've mentioned before my hatred of "smart" TVs — especially when my parents are involved, because they always manage to hit something wrong on the remote and lock the whole thing up. Guess who gets called to fix it? And I still don't understand why I need an LG account just to make the TV work, but I suppose that's how it is these days.

Thankfully, setup was mostly smooth sailing — connecting to Wi-Fi and loading up YouTube, Netflix etc. This is where LG insists you create an account, otherwise it won't let you load apps like YouTube. Another pointless hoop to jump through that's really just about harvesting your contact information.

I also connected my external sound system. I'm not a soundbar person — they basically just make the TV sound how it should out of the box and rarely deliver the experience you were hoping for. Some are better than others, but they simply can't replace a proper audio setup, even if it's more expensive and complicated to get going.

In this case, I have set of PSB AM5's and SVS SB1000 Pro sealed subwoofer. The AM5's are powered bookshelf speakers, meaning they have a built-in amplifier. I ditched the supplied speaker cables for quality replacements with proper spade connections, same for the sub.

https://www.psbspeakers.com/products/alpha-am5-powered-bookshelf-speakers?variant=46656991101113
https://www.svsound.com/products/sb...jBVi3yRYxhOa1pJ-TJQd9mm9R7VPErf5wHfJx0WOG-llM

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While you can connect the PSBs to a TV via optical cable, I've had some weird feedback issues with that method. You can also connect via aux or Bluetooth, but you lose quite a bit of punch. So instead, I run a Bluesound Node digital player, which takes audio from the TV via HDMI and processes it through to the PSBs via optical for higher-quality lossless sound. Simplistically, the Bluesound Node is suitable for powered speakers like the PSB AM5's, while the Bluesound Power Node would be for passive speakers, effectively the amplifier.

The Node is also a much better way to connect via Bluetooth when streaming music from your phone or a music app. Rather than your phone acting as the source and driver, it becomes a remote — the Node does the heavy lifting. On top of that, the Node opens up a wider range of tuning options through the BluOS app. The sub is also tunable via the SVS app. Lastly, if you have an older audio system or amplifier, the Node is a great way to modernise it with Bluetooth connectivity.

For those that don't know, Bluesound and PSB are made by N.A.D.

The one I have - https://www.bluesound.com/products/...TcP_RLap6eQKZcrH4KdgEAEGRAmhCauG8JE3llpPo2jLM

The current model - https://www.bluesound.com/products/node?_pos=5&_sid=23a397eeb&_ss=r#specifications

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Not predicable at all.................

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Just a tip, if you have the ability to do so, always choose a white finish on stuff like this as it hides dust and fingerprints.

And thank goodness — one less Sony in my life. I'm not sure if I'm just unlucky, but every Sony device I've bought has been a massive disappointment, if not an outright disaster. I have no problem paying a premium for a genuinely good brand, but I have a big problem paying top dollar for cheaply made junk with a premium badge slapped on it. Some barely made it to the warranty period; some were faulty right out of the box. That frustration hits hardest at the end of a long day when you just want to flop on the couch and unwind — not spend half an hour wrestling with your fancy TV or overpriced noise-cancelling headphones.

Anyway, not garage or detailing related, but something I've been working on recently.
 
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D.F.B

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New wheel day for the Craftsman!

There were three things that were counting against this set of wheels.

1. The tread was virtually toast, one having a weird slash on it. I can hear you asking, why does that matter, it's not a car. Well, the worn tread causes the uneven cutting.

2. The wheel bearings were toast.

3. They looked jacked up, from the scraped hub caps and sidewalls, the paint overspray, the lack of tread.

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As always with Rover wheels, the hardest part is dealing with those stupid press-fit retaining washers, be that removal or installation. Hate them!

The new secondhand wheels are the later type with horizontal rather than vertical treads. The bearings on the original wheels were completely toasted. I had planned to use the bearings the secondhand ones came with, but they were borderline — and since I'd come this far, I figured I may as well use new ones.

Bearings - NBR UGB0818F

Each axle was cleaned with a scotch-brite and lubricated with a small amount of marine grease. On one of the rear axles, I had file and sand some light burs that were preventing the new bearing from fully seating. The new retainers were then installed with an old socket and hammer. Sometimes you get lucky and they go on without argument, sometimes you end up making several attempts.

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The final step was fitting some brand new chrome hubcaps. I got a bunch of these for $0.20 each, they must be clearing them.

https://powermowers.com.au/products/cmp6618-hub-cap-for-wwp6618-ww6623?_pos=3&_sid=1bdb1f613&_ss=r

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Following that, I gave the whole mower a scrub down with Shine Supply Wise Guy, then a rinse with the pressure washer. I then applied HydrO2, then Meguiar's Hyper Dressing and a hit with the blower to dry it off.

For a 40-year old mower, it doesn't look too bad.

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For now, I'm calling this one finished.
 
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