Did you OSB?

[spam4us]

Did I OSB? Not yet.

Did anyone follow the spacing suggestion (1/16?) at the seems or just **** it up to each other?

 

[BellyUpFish]

7/16 OSB interior walls, skim coated and textured since 1995. Only two spots that joint tape let loose, minor. Nice to hang things anywhere. Never had a screw let loose. For heavy shelves, hit the studs. Sheetrock on the ceiling.

When you skim coated, did you sand it all smooth or just let it do it's thing?

One thing I'm really avoiding is the finish work with drywall.

Did I OSB? Not yet.

Did anyone follow the spacing suggestion (1/16?) at the seems or just **** it up to each other?

I've seen a handful of comments where guys spaced it accordingly and caulked the seams.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Did I OSB? Not yet.

Did anyone follow the spacing suggestion (1/16?) at the seems or just **** it up to each other?

I butted mine right together, right, wrong or indifferent, I figured it wasn't going to see rapid temperature swings.

 

[minytrker]

I butted them and primed and painted them next day. Been 2+ years. I had maybe 3 joints warp from swelling to tight. If I were to do it again I would do it the same way.

 

[Falcon67]

Did I OSB? Not yet.

Did anyone follow the spacing suggestion (1/16?) at the seems or just **** it up to each other?

Didn't care. Caulked the seams in the ceiling. I didn't notice that things fit with any precision in the first place. It's OSB, not a Mayan temple.

 

[zmotorsports]

Didn't care. Caulked the seams in the ceiling. I didn't notice that things fit with any precision in the first place. It's OSB, not a Mayan temple.

I ended up doing the same thing on a couple of seams in my RV/storage bay Chris. The fitments was pretty decent but I was getting a few small pieces of blown in insulation that would fall through once in a while and it was driving me nuts. I merely went up on the roof of the coach and used some white caulking to fill the couple of seams and from the ground you can't see it but keeps the insulation where it belongs.

 

[86Vette]

I am going to finish the walls of my 30x40 pole barn with LP SmartSide panels like this:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SmartSide-Common-0-315-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-Actual-0-315-in-x-48-563-in-x-95-875-in-38-Primed-Engineered-Treated-Wood-Siding-Panel/3058153?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LumberAndBuildingMaterials-_-SidingWoodCompositeAndCement-_-3058153:SmartSide&CAWELAID=&kpid=3058153&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=552&k_clickID=acfed035-86a0-4a62-b2aa-9febfb27f5cf&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3tjSnOXi3AIVkcDACh3CbwpxEAQYASABEgKH2PD_BwE

It's a little spendy but if you can find it on sale, it's not too bad. I think it will look a lot better than plain OSB. I like that it has ship lap edges so it's totally seamless

 

[PatrickM]

Hey Wesst, what did you use for your ceiling? The vaulted section of ceiling. Almost looks like soffit? Great garage by the way. I like it.
-Patrick

Close, but not technically OSB. I used LP Smart Siding without grooves primed in 4’x8’ sheets from Menards. I wanted something with a bit “different” finish than OSB, and it is certainly easier to paint provided it is primed. I am just finishing up the details like filling the screw holes and trimming everything, however I am pleased with the product.

The cost is more compared with OSB, however OSB is not cheap either. I do not regret it and would do it the same way over again.

Most people tend to look at my garage build and ask “why did you do it that way” about many of its features, but it’s exactly what I wanted in the location I wanted. Although I have taken some criticism in my build, I always encourage others to do what they want, not what others think you should do, as that’s what makes garage builds interesting.

(I should have added, the posts were designed to be exposed, and 2x6 walls were essentially built between the posts.)

 

[fastbike02]

I have osb in my shop that I painted with a mix of primer/drywall mud to give it a nice texture and hide the seams... only had shop for 3 years but still looks nice

 

[mikec35]

OSB on the walls of my shop, not exactly sure how old it is but the walls had yellowed, I suspect from a Kilz primer coat without a topcoat. Repainted the walls a couple of months ago, added a little color and I'm happy.

 

[mikec35]

I also have 3/8" OSB on the ceiling of my garage. I liked the unpainted look but since I was spraying my walls I decided to spray the ceiling.Be forewarned, if you paint OSB be prepared to use A LOT of paint, it ***** it up. Here are some before and after paint pics.

I've had garages with bare studs, drywall, exterior t1-11 type siding and OSB. The siding and OSB are my favorites since they are much more durable and easier to hang stuff.

 

[markeric]

I have a detached garage so an easier decision for me to use OSB, plus I hate finishing sheetrock. I framed out the top and bottom of mine with walnut stained pine and nailed poplar slats in between panels. The slats are nailed into studs using some hefty nails, so if nothing else I know I can hang some heavy stuff off those slats. I put two coats of kilz oil primer on the OSB, including the edges. I used Behr interior latex flat on the top finish, also 2 coats. I painted the salts the same color as the walls. No regrets at all, except I did the electrical traditional, insides the walls. I wish I had done electrical conduit on the outside of the OSB.

 

[Innovate1]

Here I apparently can't use OSB, at least to be ok with the AHJ. Just heard that someone that hung a few pieces of OSB (not full sheets, just some smaller pieces in a couple places to hang tools on) on the studs of his garage (was bare studs) got written up for it when the inspector saw it when they were inspecting some other part of the house for a current project. The garage was finished a few years ago but the door happened to be open and the inspector had inspected it before.

They are really insane here. Lot's of rules that make no sense. Bare studs are ok for a garage but if you put something on them it has to be fireproof. I was planning to cover some insulation over the foundation with OSB but that's a no go or I could do it after everything is inspected and closed out. I was told that OSB over drywall is also not ok - that the outer layer has to be fireproof. Didn't get this directly from the code folks though so may give them a call to verify. If it is true I'm not sure what I should cover the foundation insulation with. Guess that's why hardly anyone puts insulation on the inside here.

 

[Jon_E]

I'm about ready to buy 30 sheets for my shop walls and discovered that the price per sheet here is down below $11. A couple months ago it was over $17. Any idea why the big dive? Should I wait and expect it to go lower?

 

[jacric2005]

Yes, but not done yet. I have everything screwed into the studs, so haven't really tested the load-bearing of the OSB. I did not space it since it won't get wet. I put fiberglass insulation between the studs. Here is a picture of it with a Family Handyman shelving project. Also on the top of the wall plate parallel to the joists, I nailed a 2X6 to later have something to nail the edge of OSB/sheetrock on.

 

[hh76]

OSB, painted for me.

It looks pretty darn good for how easy it is, but not quite as nice as finished drywall. Keep in mind, the walls are never noticed once covered with all the shelving, benches, tools, posters, etc...

 

[Crazyjake8493]

For 6 or 7 years mine has been half OSB and half plywood. Started with OSB and then got a bunch of free 1/2" ply. The OSB has held up just fine, I never got around to painting it. I may prime and paint it white one day, but it's plenty bright in there as it is.

 

[PNWguy]

Have you noticed a pattern here and in the other 83 threads about using OSB? Broadly, there seems to be two groups of people. On the one hand, you have those that have actually used it and are satisified with the results. Then you have those who haven't ever used it and are prepared with a long list of reasons as to why we're wrong for using it.

Don't forget "YOU'LL DIE IF YOU USE IT!!!!!!!"

 

[chuck356]

Back in 1985, I had a 24 x 36 stick built garage built, a few months later I finished out the inside with OSB that I painted gray. Still looks almost like the day it was done, I have been very happy, going to use OSB on my new building.

 

[brownbagg]

i dont like osb, I used plain plywood

 

[rburke65]

Used OSB on the exterior wall then covered in Tyvek, then metal siding....ok by my standards. Smart siding interior with metal ceiling liner.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Nothing wrong with OSB. In my garage I will be using drywall. The quipment/power/heating area will be getting some 3/4” Birch plywood. I was lucky and got a hell of a deal on the Birch. I’m going to be making French Cleats for anything that will be going on the wall which will be strapped to the studs.

 

[wood02]

I used 35 pcs. of 1/2" x 4' x 8' OSB in my garage, constructed in 1991. Screwed to 16" on center 2"x 4". I did not paint or finish it in any way. Have taken some down to run additional wiring and reinstalled with no problems. It looks as good as the day I put it up. If I could learn to post a picture I would gladly show you.

 

[Samh]

In my old barn, used plywood on the walls and OSB on the ceiling. Neither were painted. OSB held up fine, but will use just plywood this next time.

 

[The Wizard]

I was planning on doing my 40x50 shop all in drywall since drywall is relatively fire resistant/fire proof.

Is painted OSB equivalent to painted drywall with regards to minimizing the risk of catching fire should sparks from grinding tools, welding tools etc make contact with the materials?

As far as unpainted OSB to finished and painted drywall, I would imagine there is no comparison.

 

[Falcon67]

As far as unpainted OSB to finished and painted drywall, I would imagine there is no comparison.

I do all kinds of grinding and welding in my unpainted OSB shop. Same in the smaller shop at the last house. Most of that older 20x24 was exposed kraft paper insulation too. No fires. Used a piece of OSB as a launching pad for fireworks last July 4th since the ground was too wet for spinners, smoke bombs, worms, copters, aerial shooters and various pyrotechnics. Got a bit scorched all over but no fire.

The house behind us has a "hut / storage building" made from OSB. About 4' square, 8' tall, slant tin roof. Built in 2011. No finish until they finally painted it purple last summer (2018) for some reason. Didn't dissolve in the rain, looks fine.

 

[Adk Mike]

1/2 on the walls and very thin for the ceiling maybe 3/8. I put the shinny side out . Then painted it with bin for a primer and then white. 2004 was the year. I do metal work to starting to get dirty. When warm weather comes time to repaint. No bad after 15 years

 

[NUTTSGT]

OSB on the walls of my shop, not exactly sure how old it is but the walls had yellowed, I suspect from a Kilz primer coat without a topcoat. Repainted the walls a couple of months ago, added a little color and I'm happy.

Yep, oil based Kilz will yellow slowly overtime if you don't top coat it. I found out the hard way myself.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Why would anyone ever put a combustible material as interior walls of a garage? No. No OSB. We did move into a home with partial (lower 48") 3/4" PT (unpainted) on the walls. It held up OK for 14 years... Until I ripped it down, insulated it then hung 5/8" firecode drywall. The firecode drywall (painted and finished) has held up extremely well over the last 4-5-ish years.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Why would anyone ever put a combustible material as interior walls of a garage?

Because that's what they wanted to do, could afford, felt was best.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Because that's what they wanted to do

True.

could afford

any way you look at it, drywall is cheaper than OSB

felt was best.

I have a hard time believing someone would feel a material that is more combustible, expensive, louder, harder to finish, harder to repair, etc. would be "best" given the alternatives.

 

[MushCreek]

OSB was down to $8 and change at the big box store yesterday. I'm thinking of using it to build a stairwell in my barn. Long story, but I want the added structural integrity. The stairwell will be enclosed to prevent heat from escaping up to the loft. I'm going to stud the walls, OSB the inside of the stairwell, then attach the stair stringers, going through the OSB to the studs. Should make a hella stout stair assembly. My main stair stringers will be nearly 20' long, so the continuous support will make it much stiffer. And yes, I know that's a long run of stairs to fall down, but it's the only practical set-up for my barn. Certainly safer than the ladder I'm using now. The loft is just storage, so the stairs won't be used all that often. Someone needs to invent a stairway airbag system that would inflate if you're falling down the stairs.

I'll concede that OSB is ugly. It's a shop, after all. My whole barn is wood, so any fire is gonna be a disaster anyway. In the main shop, I'll cover it with 4' of metal at the bottom. They make a paint additive that's supposed to give wood a legitimate fire rating. I used it on the plywood ceiling in my kitchen, installed to make hanging decorative tin panels easier. The inspector was fine with it.

 

[JamesW84]

Why would anyone ever put a combustible material as interior walls of a garage? No. No OSB. We did move into a home with partial (lower 48") 3/4" PT (unpainted) on the walls. It held up OK for 14 years... Until I ripped it down, insulated it then hung 5/8" firecode drywall. The firecode drywall (painted and finished) has held up extremely well over the last 4-5-ish years.

Usually the reasons are:
1) Don't like to mud/tape drywall
2) OSB is more rigid - less likely to knock a hole or dent it
3) They are pretty close to the same price
4) Screw it on so you can replace it if need be
5) Some guys use OSB as a welding table. I've welded on OSB before, although I know a metal table would be better. It doesn't burn as easily as some people think. It's not like you're directing an open flame on it - even then I bet it would take a minute or two for it to catch fire. I think the idea behind fire-rated drywall is so that fire doesn't spread, not so that it doesn't catch to begin with. If there was a nearby fire and that caught the drywall or OSB, it could spread to the house on an attached.

 

[paredown]

Somebody mentioned it in passing, but it is worth calling it out--some jurisdictions require a minimum of 5/8 Firestop drywall both sides where there is a garage attached to a dwelling unit, so it is worth checking that.

I cobbled together some scrap Hardy for the insides of the space I'm using--it is nailed over top of 5/8 drywall on the house side--mainly because the price was right (free for the Hardie).

When I build my dream shop--I'll have to think about it, but I lean towards drywall, plywood or OSB underneath in areas where you want to attach stuff...

 

[NUTTSGT]

Why would anyone ever put a combustible material as interior walls of a garage? No. No OSB. We did move into a home with partial (lower 48") 3/4" PT (unpainted) on the walls. It held up OK for 14 years... Until I ripped it down, insulated it then hung 5/8" firecode drywall. The firecode drywall (painted and finished) has held up extremely well over the last 4-5-ish years.

True.



any way you look at it, drywall is cheaper than OSB



I have a hard time believing someone would feel a material that is more combustible, expensive, louder, harder to finish, harder to repair, etc. would be "best" given the alternatives.

Houses burn down everyday across North America and they have drywall installed rather than OSB for wall covering. If a building is going to burn, it's going to burn, no matter what you do.

 

[drewski]

I hung osb in the 30x30 work area of my garage over 30 years ago. No paint, just screwed into place. My wife has a 15x30 shop area that I ran T-111 half way up wall and sheetrock rest of the way up wall and ceiling. My other 15x30 portion of the garage is all sheetrock. I've had to do numerous repairs over the years on the sheetrock where its been bumped, but nothing on the osb. I wouldn't hesitate to use osb in a working garage. Guess it just depends on whether you're after a showplace or just a work area. And yeah, I've got an Ashley wood burning stove in my work area for that 30+ years.

 

[ynned]

I am going to finish the walls of my 30x40 pole barn with LP SmartSide panels like this:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SmartSide-Common-0-315-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-Actual-0-315-in-x-48-563-in-x-95-875-in-38-Primed-Engineered-Treated-Wood-Siding-Panel/3058153?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LumberAndBuildingMaterials-_-SidingWoodCompositeAndCement-_-3058153:SmartSide&CAWELAID=&kpid=3058153&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=552&k_clickID=acfed035-86a0-4a62-b2aa-9febfb27f5cf&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3tjSnOXi3AIVkcDACh3CbwpxEAQYASABEgKH2PD_BwE

It's a little spendy but if you can find it on sale, it's not too bad. I think it will look a lot better than plain OSB. I like that it has ship lap edges so it's totally seamless

35 bucks a sheet compared to 8? I'd call that more than a little spendy.

 

[ynned]

True.



any way you look at it, drywall is cheaper than OSB



I have a hard time believing someone would feel a material that is more combustible, expensive, louder, harder to finish, harder to repair, etc. would be "best" given the alternatives.

7/16 osb is under 8 bucks at my home depot. 1/2 drywall drywall is 10.

 

[Lucid Moments]

My shop is being built and hasn't gotten to the stage where anything has been put up inside yet, but I am planning on going with OSB. Mainly because sheetrock is too easy to damage. I plan on working in my shop, and don't want to have to worry about bumping into the walls and damaging them.

 

[Samh]

Houses burn down everyday across North America and they have drywall installed rather than OSB for wall covering. If a building is going to burn, it's going to burn, no matter what you do.

It's too bad this site doesn't have a like button