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DIY chrome plating.

Grant Gunderson

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Has anyone had much luck with those DIY copper / nickle/ chrome platting kits? Given the quote I got locally for doing all of the small knobs/ etc on my lathe, I think it may be my only viable option. I feel like they gave me a go away price not wanting to do it as they are booked out months.

I seem to recall a really good thread or post set in a bigger thread hear on GJ, where someone documented the entire process step by step really well. Trying to find those posts, but not much luck with the search function. Wish I would have saved those links when I saw them.
 
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jimgood

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Marshall, VA
I wish I had answers. I've always wondered about the cost. There's an Aussie YouTuber that seems budget minded but always gets hardware plated. He does it so frequently that I assumed it didn't cost much. And maybe down under it doesn't.
Look forward to hearing about DIY solutions.
 

b-dog

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Lakewood, CO
It's my understanding that chrome plating is a big health hazard - thus pricey. Due to regulations, I don't think there's a local chrome plating shop in Denver anymore. My local zinc (and other) plating place has a $200 minimum.

I have a Caswell zinc kit and have plated a lot of small parts, nuts, and bolts. I highly recommend Caswell if you're going to need plating more than once. With all the buckets, the setup takes a lot of space to use and store. I also sandblasted everything prior to plating (more space and equipment required).
 

whateg01

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... With all the buckets, the setup takes a lot of space to use and store. I also sandblasted everything prior to plating (more space and equipment required).
I have a whole cart full of buckets - distilled water, the plating bucket, chromate solutions, etc. Another cart has stuff for anodizing. Yeah, this making stuff takes a lot of space!
 

isb cornbinder

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Pacific South West, BC, Canada
Has anyone had much luck with those DIY copper / nickle/ chrome platting kits? Given the quote I got locally for doing all of the small knobs/ etc on my lathe, I think it may be my only viable option. I feel like they gave me a go away price not wanting to do it as they are booked out months.

I seem to recall a really good thread or post set in a bigger thread hear on GJ, where someone documented the entire process step by step really well. Trying to find those posts, but not much luck with the search function. Wish I would have saved those links when I saw them.
Here is something to consider.
Has anyone had much luck with those DIY copper / nickle/ chrome platting kits? Given the quote I got locally for doing all of the small knobs/ etc on my lathe, I think it may be my only viable option. I feel like they gave me a go away price not wanting to do it as they are booked out months.

I seem to recall a really good thread or post set in a bigger thread hear on GJ, where someone documented the entire process step by step really well. Trying to find those posts, but not much luck with the search function. Wish I would have saved those links when I saw them.
Here is something to consider. One of the members of this forum owns a company called http://phoenixspecialtycoatings.com/index.html
She does absolutely beautiful work with powder coatings. Powder coating comes in as many colours as you can think up. One of these finishes is a chrome. Give her a call and maybe send along a few pictures. She is cudachick68.
If you decide to take your parts to a chrome plater, make sure you itemize the pieces and take pictures. This is a good idea any time you leave parts somewhere. Phoenix will take good care of your parts.
You may want to read my recent post that tells the loss of a Porsche 911 engine at a plating shop.
If this were my project, I might be considering a bright color for my knobs.
Has anyone had much luck with those DIY copper / nickle/ chrome platting kits? Given the quote I got locally for doing all of the small knobs/ etc on my lathe, I think it may be my only viable option. I feel like they gave me a go away price not wanting to do it as they are booked out months.

I seem to recall a really good thread or post set in a bigger thread hear on GJ, where someone documented the entire process step by step really well. Trying to find those posts, but not much luck with the search function. Wish I would have saved those links when I saw them.
 

Cruzan80

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While not "chrome", I have seen various restoration channels on Youtube seem to use a "nickel-plating" which is certainly bright/shiny enough for my usage, especially on smaller parts.
 

Boogerman

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aspen cove hill
Lots of older stuff we consider chrome is actually nickel. Even most chrome is a flash of chrome over nickel. Consider electroless nickel, it's the most durable and lowest cost to set up. Hardest part is setting up to do flash copper plating, which is an essential pre-requisite for good nickel. Extremely good, clean, greaseless prep is also essential. Waxes embedded in the pores from polishing compounds can really frustrate you in chemical metal finishing. Electroless is more matte finish, but stays on better and is easier. Shiny nickel peels easily.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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Lots of older stuff we consider chrome is actually nickel. Even most chrome is a flash of chrome over nickel. Consider electroless nickel, it's the most durable and lowest cost to set up. Hardest part is setting up to do flash copper plating, which is an essential pre-requisite for good nickel. Extremely good, clean, greaseless prep is also essential. Waxes embedded in the pores from polishing compounds can really frustrate you in chemical metal finishing. Electroless is more matte finish, but stays on better and is easier. Shiny nickel peels easily.
In the research I have done, it seems that is the way to go, and the Nickel is the base for Chrome anyways, so if I'm not happy with the Nickel result I can then go to the next step. Lots of research and learning to be had before I commit.

I do like the idea of doing it myself as its a lot of small parts that would be difficult to replace if not impossible.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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General search advice:

Use google instead of GJ search for better results. Key is use the website specific google search like this:

site:garagejournal.com nickel plating
Thats my go to method. Still didn't find what I remember seeing, but than again, maybe it was on a totally different forum too.
 

txvwnut

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Bedford, Texas
I ordered a nickel plating kit from caswellplating.com. Haven’t used it yet but they do have some great information on their site and they have a booklet you can purchase that shows the ins and outs of the process. One thing they state is the prep is 99% to getting good results.
 

Boogerman

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Interesting tidbit about plating, rust resistance and physical chemistry vs analytical chemistry:

The tendency for a metal to corrode is in general measured by its electrode potential. The more negative the potential, the less resistant to corrosion it is compared to other metals. Here's a chart of electrode potentials.

1701650010526.png

It's odd to note that nickel is only slightly less resistant to corrosion than iron, and chromium is actually less resistant than iron. In other words, to be technical, chromium has more negative electrode potential than iron, and nickel has less electrode potential. That's analytical chemistry.

However, here's where physical chemistry comes into play. The electrode potential states which metal will react most easily but it doesn't predict the rate the reaction will take place at. In physical reality, chromium has a much slower reaction rate than nickel, and nickel has a reaction rate about 100 times slower than steel. So, both can be used as a protective coating for steel, by plating them onto it. The plating tends to exclude oxygen and water from the steel, and protect it from corrosion. Once it pinholes, though, the steel underneath oxidizes readily, and quickly. That's why you get a rust bloom scattered all over chrome parts, and when you clean off that rust bloom, it almost disappears. The pinholes are tiny, and the rust produced is a very small defect in the chrome. If it's removed quickly enough and then protected by clear coat or wax, rust freckling on chrome, once removed, is almost invisible.

Another anomaly is aluminum, which is very negative, and thus quite reactive. Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly in air, but the aluminum oxide formed is very durable and tends to protect the underlying aluminum from oxidizing. Thus, aluminum turns slightly whitish from the pure silver color of unoxidized, and then doesn't oxidize further very fast.
 

dutchgray

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If the parts are steel being that they are lathe control knobs/ levers if the original is too bad to clean up I would highly polish them and either clear coat or apply some wax and not worry about it too much.

I have no experience with home plating kits.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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If the parts are steel being that they are lathe control knobs/ levers if the original is too bad to clean up I would highly polish them and either clear coat or apply some wax and not worry about it too much.

I have no experience with home plating kits.
The lathe is a war machine. So a combination of metals. Some of them are cast iron and have the factory chrome still in tact. It’s all of the pot metal ones that need to be plated along with a few aluminum detail parts I made for it.
IMG_0683.jpeg
I’ve done a very complete and detailed restoration of the lathe, and am down to the cosmetic work on the controls. So don’t want to do it half ***. This machine was used at the 300 area of Hanford in ‘44 to build fuel rod containers for the atom bomb.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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Grant,

Have you checked the machine for background radiation? I know the 'hot machines' at Hanford get buried.
Haha. It's good. My dad was head of engineering at B-plant in the 200 area when he retired. According to him, everything in his area got buried and he knew there was a lot of 10EE that did, that mostly happened before his time there. The stuff from the 300 area didnt see anything hot. One thing he noted, is they did a pretty good job of burying anything that was hot. Problem is they didn't do the best job of documenting that back then, and some of it was pretty hastily buried. Evidently they buried an entire train too. Problem is a lot of that stuff they put into tunnels with wooden roofs and some have collapsed!
 
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K13

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St. Albert, AB Canada
Never tried it myself but I have seen lots of guys try it on various sites and pretty much to a man it takes them all a ton of trial and error before they get anything that even looks half decent. They probably have spent more in the end than just taking them to a chrome plater especially if their time is worth anything.
 

ybnormal

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I had the hardware (clamps, bolts, hold-downs) on a marching bass drum re-chromed about 11-12yrs ago, and they did a great job with less than a week turn-around time. only paid about $50. find it hard to believe the price has gone up that much.
1701724449424.png
 

BrandonV

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I had the hardware (clamps, bolts, hold-downs) on a marching bass drum re-chromed about 11-12yrs ago, and they did a great job with less than a week turn-around time. only paid about $50. find it hard to believe the price has gone up that much.
1701724449424.png

I've been told new EPA requirements made the process more cost intensive. Not sure how much of that is true.
 

71goldss

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Grant,
You mention chrome plating the pot metal handles. In my personal experience, even chrome shops can have difficulty chrome plating pot metal. I'm no expert on the subject, but a Google search states that pot metal needs to be perfectly clean, no oxidation, corrosion or imperfections before plating. It can look perfect to the naked eye, but still not perfect for the chroming process to stick. I had a pair of door handles for my El Camino re-chromed at a local chrome shop about five years ago, and it was a complete waste of money. I had already researched and read about the possible problems associated with plating pot metal, but I had it done anyway. Within a few weeks the handles developed bubbles under the chrome. Fortunately, I've since purchased perfect reproduction handles. Now it's possible my shop just didn't take enough time and care with my handles, but I still can't imagine a DIY chrome plating job would turn out better results than a professional shop on pot metal, but who knows? Just a heads up in case you aren't already aware, and good luck on your project. Looks fantastic btw!
 
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Diabolical D

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Chrome plating involves substances that the epa is especially keen on controlling.

If you can't polish them back up, replace or paint them.
 

LopezBart

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Chrome plating using hexavalent chromium is on the way out as it's a very chemically dirty process. Trivalent chrome plating will replace it for cosmetic purposes... no idea what we're going to do about hard chroming.
 

DGersic

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I've been told new EPA requirements made the process more cost intensive. Not sure how much of that is true.

The EPA regulations are no longer new. They’ve been in place for a while.

I had a pair of bumpers rechromed two years ago. Small local shop. Took nine months, because he had trouble getting the supplies needed for the work. When I picked them up, he told me that his costs for supplies had just doubled.
 

LopezBart

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Plating shops show up a lot in Superfund site lists. With cyanide, various heavy metals, PFAS chemicals used to suppress fumes, etc., cleanups tend to be expensive and many smaller shops don't have the capital and expertise to transition away from the way they used to operate.
 

DocsMachine

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Grant: I've used Caswell's electroless nickel kit with good results. It's great on steel, and a bit tricky on brass and copper. Never tried potmetal, but I'm told that's both tricky and relatively short-lived.

My two suggestions: Ask around for other chrome shops. The one you spoke to probably gave you the "I don't want to do it" price- but there's hundreds of others around the country. Ask around- it may not be cheap, but you should be able to find somebody.

The other option is check PM. A fellow over there, a number of years ago, made himself new knobs, from scratch, in stainless steel. Once brightly polished, they were as good as chrome, and likely even more durable.

You will need a functional lathe (you're getting there) and of course a mill, but it's all easily possible. If I were in your shoes, that's probably how I'd do it.

That said, one of the things I've been wanting to do to finish off my big Springfield, is to send off some of the various controls to be chromed. The cross slide hand crank (which I had to customize and modify) the dials (which I had to make from scratch) the way wiper covers (just for the bling :) ) the speed range levers, etc.

I asked around, I think maybe here and/or over on HSM, and did a bit of Googling. I specifically aimed for the shops that specialized in things like automotive and motorcycle parts- they're used to handling small fiddly bits, rather than, like big industrial parts or thousand-part runs.

Doc.
 

BrandonV

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Plating shops show up a lot in Superfund site lists. With cyanide, various heavy metals, PFAS chemicals used to suppress fumes, etc., cleanups tend to be expensive and many smaller shops don't have the capital and expertise to transition away from the way they used to operate.

I tried to get a handgun blued and found out that all the local refinishing outfits no joke just send the guns out to the same company for bluing.
 

LopezBart

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When I made some small steel parts (carriage stops sort of thing) for my lathe, I read an article on Parkerizing.... and said, hell, I've got that stuff here, and cleaned the parts really well and boiled them in manganese dioxide from a dead flashlight battery and phosphoric acid (Ospho). Worked like a charm; certainly not flawless, but neither is the rest of the lathe :). The parts are a dull gray. There's quite a sense of satisfaction being able to do some shop chemistry.
 

shoot summ

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The lathe is a war machine. So a combination of metals. Some of them are cast iron and have the factory chrome still in tact. It’s all of the pot metal ones that need to be plated along with a few aluminum detail parts I made for it.
IMG_0683.jpeg
I’ve done a very complete and detailed restoration of the lathe, and am down to the cosmetic work on the controls. So don’t want to do it half ***. This machine was used at the 300 area of Hanford in ‘44 to build fuel rod containers for the atom bomb.
Can't help with the plating, but that thing is stunning...
 

dutchgray

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Hot or cold bluing? I thought hot is pretty nasty to work with.
I have done hot bluing, but only the traditional way, heat a shiny bit of steel with a propane torch until its the right colour and let it cool, the hard part is getting the right colour and it barely makes a difference WRT corrosion resistance.
 
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