Dr_Clyde's Shop Projects
- Thread starter dr_clyde
- Start date
Had a few minutes last night so I worked a bit on my big angle plates. These got tossed by the wayside, waiting for more motivation and time. Well, I'm helping a buddy this weekend make some parts for his boat, and he's the plant manager at a large machine shop. I'm hoping he'll be able to dust these off on one of the big horizontal machining centers at his shop. But, I do have to get them welded up first.
I only had a few minutes, so I didn't get far, but I got the mill scale ground off, and the gusset supports welded in on one. I plan to stick weld the vee groove on the face, and then sandblast the backsides. I also need to spend some time with a grinder and some burrs, I want to get all the sharp edges off them so they can be handled easily. I'll get them machined, then I'll paint the backs.
I took next Monday off work, I'm planning to spend the day in my shop finishing up a couple languishing projects, this one included.
I only had a few minutes, so I didn't get far, but I got the mill scale ground off, and the gusset supports welded in on one. I plan to stick weld the vee groove on the face, and then sandblast the backsides. I also need to spend some time with a grinder and some burrs, I want to get all the sharp edges off them so they can be handled easily. I'll get them machined, then I'll paint the backs.
I took next Monday off work, I'm planning to spend the day in my shop finishing up a couple languishing projects, this one included.
i rarely post in here, but read threads all the time. so I am quiet surprised when I see this comment, look at the location (hoping someday i will be within a few hours) and look at that... I live on ottawa beach
Amazing work by the way!
bggrnchvy
Well-known member
Thought you guys would like this project I recently completed at work. It is a pilot brewing system for experimental and test batches of product. It is sized to brew one beer barrel, or about 31 gallons of finished beer into the fermenter. Our main system is a 50 bbl, so this is way easier and cheaper to make a trial run on. This has lovingly been dubbed the "homebrew kit". It was something fun to make and the guys really like using it. It was designed by our technical director, and fabricated by me.
The mash/lauter tun is double wall and fully insulated, has a false bottom and a collection grant.
Kettle has 2 independent steam jackets and a tangential entry so it can whirlpool onto itself. It will bring cold water to a rolling boil in less than 15 min.
The fermenter has a glycol jacket and is temperature controlled.
Overall, a very fun project and a heck of a lot cheaper to make our own that to get a custom system from one of the big makers.
To clean up the wiring on the box tube and keep from running zip ties around the tubes, I have the guys bend up some cheap 18-8 3/8" washers to a 90* angle. A tack and a spot of filler on the two points that touch the box tube and you have a great attachment point with a single small black zip tie.
Usually we run them in conduit, but the M12 instrumentation cables go direct when they're close to the panel.
Just something that might help tidy up the wiring a bit.
i rarely post in here, but read threads all the time. so I am quiet surprised when I see this comment, look at the location (hoping someday i will be within a few hours) and look at that... I live on ottawa beach
Amazing work by the way!
Hey neighbor! Small world. Thanks for the compliments. PM me if you ever want to meet up.
I made a quick base plate for my new/old Beverly shear. The B3 is rated to cut 3/16" steel and 10ga SS, so that takes a bit of leverage. It tends to want to tilt ahead.
The factory stand is designed to be bolted to the floor. I don't want to do that, so I got this chunk of steel to use as a sub-plate.
Drilled and tapped some holes with my magnetic drill, and a short time later, I've got 300 lbs of counterweight.
I'm probably gonna put some fork pockets on it so I can move it easier, as its a bear to get around now.
The factory stand is designed to be bolted to the floor. I don't want to do that, so I got this chunk of steel to use as a sub-plate.
Drilled and tapped some holes with my magnetic drill, and a short time later, I've got 300 lbs of counterweight.
I'm probably gonna put some fork pockets on it so I can move it easier, as its a bear to get around now.
dr_clyde, you, sir, are Phenominal!!
My first job out of college I met a Senior Plastics Molding Engineer who had worked his way up from the tool room starting as Apprentice Tool Maker.
He often told people that 'If you put 3 German toolmakers around a block of raw steel and supply them with a keg of (good!) beer, you will see MAGIC!'
Awesome. Simply awesome.
My first job out of college I met a Senior Plastics Molding Engineer who had worked his way up from the tool room starting as Apprentice Tool Maker.
He often told people that 'If you put 3 German toolmakers around a block of raw steel and supply them with a keg of (good!) beer, you will see MAGIC!'
Awesome. Simply awesome.
Progress!
I got ahold of a tow behind screw compressor for the weekend so I could make a mess with the sandblaster. The neighbors at work have an underground sprinkling business, so I inquired if they used a tow behind screw compressor to push out the lines in the fall. They do, and were more than happy to loan it to me, as it sits idle all summer. If you've never used one of these for sandblasting, rent one next time you need to do a bunch. Its the only way I'll do it anymore. The blaster just works so much better with all that CFM.
I really dislike sandblasting but its a necessary evil to feed my iron addiction.
The cheese deluxe import bandsaw I have in place of my Kalamazoo has been ******* me off as of late, so I'm trying to fit more time to work on the Kzoo into my schedule.
Here's one of two piles of todays work. I did all the parts that won't fit into a cabinet, so the frame, base, legs, chip pan, coolant sump and wheel cover. The rest I can take to work one piece at a time and use the cabinet there, as I haven't sprung for one yet.
I got ahold of a tow behind screw compressor for the weekend so I could make a mess with the sandblaster. The neighbors at work have an underground sprinkling business, so I inquired if they used a tow behind screw compressor to push out the lines in the fall. They do, and were more than happy to loan it to me, as it sits idle all summer. If you've never used one of these for sandblasting, rent one next time you need to do a bunch. Its the only way I'll do it anymore. The blaster just works so much better with all that CFM.
I really dislike sandblasting but its a necessary evil to feed my iron addiction.
The cheese deluxe import bandsaw I have in place of my Kalamazoo has been ******* me off as of late, so I'm trying to fit more time to work on the Kzoo into my schedule.
Here's one of two piles of todays work. I did all the parts that won't fit into a cabinet, so the frame, base, legs, chip pan, coolant sump and wheel cover. The rest I can take to work one piece at a time and use the cabinet there, as I haven't sprung for one yet.
sberry
Banned
I blast outside too, don't even have a cab. There is a bulk sand plant near here. 20 a ton, 15 if you get 4 or so. Lotso air definitely makes it a lot easier.
As some of you are aware, I recently purchased a South Bend "Heavy 10" at an auction.
The lathe is finally at home, snug as the proverbial bug in a rug.
Used my overhead hoist to pick it up out of my pickup. I just backed in and craned it out. It almost felt like cheating to not have to start up the forklift. Not used to machines this small.
It is comically small in front of the LeBlond, and the LeBlond is a fairly small lathe, by industrial standards.
Here is some of the tooling that came with it. Some things of note are the Nikcole Thin Bit inserted carbide grooving tools and a 1/4" solid carbide inserted boring bar. Nice!
There was also this beautiful Royal live center. For those not in the know, Royal makes some of the nicest centers and collet chucks in the business. They are outstanding in quality, and consequently in price. This one happens to be their econo line, which is still head and shoulders above most of whatever else is on the market. New, that's a $250 center. And its only a #2 MT! The quad bearing high precision center for a #2 MT is $580
Unfortunately, I didn't end up with the 5C collet nose that was in the auction photo. I plan to call the company and ask if it is still kicking around in the shop somewhere, although I won't get my hopes up.
There was this nice Buck 6 jaw chuck attached though. Adjust-true, and with both sets of jaws. Plus a bonus Mitutoyo indicator on a magnetic back on the bed, for precise Z positioning.
The little multifix toolholder next to an Aloris CA holder. I like the contrast. I find it funny for some unknown reason.
So far, I'm very happy with my $800 lathe. I need to get a 3 phase circuit run and make some chips then we'll be in business!
The lathe is finally at home, snug as the proverbial bug in a rug.
Used my overhead hoist to pick it up out of my pickup. I just backed in and craned it out. It almost felt like cheating to not have to start up the forklift. Not used to machines this small.
It is comically small in front of the LeBlond, and the LeBlond is a fairly small lathe, by industrial standards.
Here is some of the tooling that came with it. Some things of note are the Nikcole Thin Bit inserted carbide grooving tools and a 1/4" solid carbide inserted boring bar. Nice!
There was also this beautiful Royal live center. For those not in the know, Royal makes some of the nicest centers and collet chucks in the business. They are outstanding in quality, and consequently in price. This one happens to be their econo line, which is still head and shoulders above most of whatever else is on the market. New, that's a $250 center. And its only a #2 MT! The quad bearing high precision center for a #2 MT is $580
Unfortunately, I didn't end up with the 5C collet nose that was in the auction photo. I plan to call the company and ask if it is still kicking around in the shop somewhere, although I won't get my hopes up.
There was this nice Buck 6 jaw chuck attached though. Adjust-true, and with both sets of jaws. Plus a bonus Mitutoyo indicator on a magnetic back on the bed, for precise Z positioning.
The little multifix toolholder next to an Aloris CA holder. I like the contrast. I find it funny for some unknown reason.
So far, I'm very happy with my $800 lathe. I need to get a 3 phase circuit run and make some chips then we'll be in business!
Craptain
Well-known member
Beautiful just beautiful. That lathe is on my dream list. And 800 with the tooling is enough to tear my hair out.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
56rpm
Well-known member
Nice score! I'd love to find a heavy 10 close by. My 7/8" spindle bore ain't cutting it.
jinjaninja
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2011
- Messages
- 149
So much jealous
Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
larry4406
Well-known member
$800 is a You **** price. Nice find!
Boosted1
Well-known member
Nice Beverly Shear stand.
I have my Beverly mounted to my fab / weld table.
Really nice score on the South Bend!
I have my Beverly mounted to my fab / weld table.
Really nice score on the South Bend!
Did something different in the shop today. I hosted some members of the local college's Formula SAE team for some fabrication.
For those of you that aren't familiar with Formula SAE and its cousin Baja SAE, they are college engineering clubs that take engineering concepts and gives students exposure to real world implementation of them. Students are responsible for the design, fabrication and eventual racing of either a Formula track car or a off road Baja style race buggy.
It's an outstanding program and it really helps students hone their design skills, testing ideas, dealing with budgets, vendors, and teamwork. It also gives them seat time in the welding and machine shop. Plus, you know, racecars and stuff. Depending on the college, students have access to some pretty amazing resources, and can really shape how they look at engineering.
I've had a fair amount of exposure to the programs, as my last intern/apprentice I had at work was on the Baja team at MTU, and my younger cousins are on the team at Hope here in Holland. I've helped on and off over the years as they've needed minor welding or machine shop services that they can't handle in their little shop at the college. It's really incredible how it influences these guys, and teaches them about the real world ramifications of design decisions. It also is cool to watch the "light bulb moments" where something clicks in the shop that they've only read about or simulated in Solidworks, as well as the "oh **** that was not the way to do that" moments.
They asked me if I would be willing to lend the team my shop to build a chassis jig for the new car they're building. I was more than happy to lend my shop and occasional critique or observation.
It was a fun Saturday. I puttered around on some lingering projects and did the odd drive by the welding area to see how things were going. They did a great job. I'm proud of these guys, they're shaping up to be fine engineers. If you have kids interested in engineering and things with wheels, I highly encourage you to get them involved with an SAE racing program if there's one at their school. I know I'd rather hire a guy/gal that was on one of these teams than not...
For those of you that aren't familiar with Formula SAE and its cousin Baja SAE, they are college engineering clubs that take engineering concepts and gives students exposure to real world implementation of them. Students are responsible for the design, fabrication and eventual racing of either a Formula track car or a off road Baja style race buggy.
It's an outstanding program and it really helps students hone their design skills, testing ideas, dealing with budgets, vendors, and teamwork. It also gives them seat time in the welding and machine shop. Plus, you know, racecars and stuff. Depending on the college, students have access to some pretty amazing resources, and can really shape how they look at engineering.
I've had a fair amount of exposure to the programs, as my last intern/apprentice I had at work was on the Baja team at MTU, and my younger cousins are on the team at Hope here in Holland. I've helped on and off over the years as they've needed minor welding or machine shop services that they can't handle in their little shop at the college. It's really incredible how it influences these guys, and teaches them about the real world ramifications of design decisions. It also is cool to watch the "light bulb moments" where something clicks in the shop that they've only read about or simulated in Solidworks, as well as the "oh **** that was not the way to do that" moments.
They asked me if I would be willing to lend the team my shop to build a chassis jig for the new car they're building. I was more than happy to lend my shop and occasional critique or observation.
It was a fun Saturday. I puttered around on some lingering projects and did the odd drive by the welding area to see how things were going. They did a great job. I'm proud of these guys, they're shaping up to be fine engineers. If you have kids interested in engineering and things with wheels, I highly encourage you to get them involved with an SAE racing program if there's one at their school. I know I'd rather hire a guy/gal that was on one of these teams than not...
royce
Well-known member
Very nice
Good on you
Royce
Good on you
Royce
Craptain
Well-known member
Totally cool. I like the concept and appreciate your support of them.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
jinjaninja
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2011
- Messages
- 149
Outstanding things to be involved in man
Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
We have Formula SAE and Baja SAE teams here at the UofI. I always love talking with those guys/gals as they get so excited about what they are doing. We also have a pulling tractor team that is similar. Good on you for helping them out!
E12-535iTurbo
Well-known member
I fully agree with you. I've been part of one of those teams too and gained quite a bit of experience. It's a big, big advantage when you can combine practical knowledge with theoretical knowledge. I nowadays always look for applicants who have both. Eventhough a job vacancy is solely theory the practical experience always helps.
Big thumbs up for giving these students a hand. They are a lucky group as for engineering lessons your shop is one of the best to get into.
Big thumbs up for giving these students a hand. They are a lucky group as for engineering lessons your shop is one of the best to get into.
Aroberson77
Well-known member
Awesome thread, you have some serious skills. That is pretty cool that you are helping out the SAE team. We had them at Virginia Tech, but me and my friends went one step further and made our own team that has progressed to building and racing a Class 10 Desert car. Do you still have the FC, and what are the plans for it? I have a FB, 1985 GSL model with an LT1 swap
The RX-7 belongs to a good friend of mine. I believe it's an 87 GXL? He rents some shop space from me to store the car and work on it. I usually get roped into helping with these projects. This one he bought with a blown rotary, so we swapped in an LS1 with a T-56. It's not really built for any specific kind of racing, mostly just do skids around the track and hoon around for fun. He's into drifting, so it will probably see some drift courses.
Aroberson77
Well-known member
Cool, I use mine for drifting as well, those cars are alot of fun with a V8 in them
Here is some work I've been doing lately. This is a 15 gallon fuel cell I build for a customer. 5052 Aluminum .090" thick.
He placed an order for 10 last week, 2 down 8 to go. I get the blanks laser cut, we bend them on a press brake at a buddy's shop and I can fit up and weld one out with the tabs, filler neck, and bungs in about 2 hours and 20 minutes.
They get pressure tested, then powder coated and installed.
He placed an order for 10 last week, 2 down 8 to go. I get the blanks laser cut, we bend them on a press brake at a buddy's shop and I can fit up and weld one out with the tabs, filler neck, and bungs in about 2 hours and 20 minutes.
They get pressure tested, then powder coated and installed.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Beautiful looking work on the fuel cell.
Beautiful looking work on the fuel cell.
Thank you!
I am TIG welding these with my Dynasty 200 DX. I have it set for 200 amps, mostly for the side brackets and filler neck. The actual sheet takes less, maybe 150 or so. I'm using a watercooled #20 torch, gas lens with a 1/8" ceriated tungsten ground to a point. I don't remember my balance and frequency, maybe 70% EN at 100Hz? Could be 120Hz, I don't really remember.
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
What catches my eye the most(other than the pretty welds) is the lack of distortion around the welded angle tabs. Nice work Doc.
That was the first thing that came to mind as well. I studied all the photos in search of distortion around the tab welds, and came up empty handed.
Great work on the tanks!
royce
Well-known member
And I thought your white iron work was slick, this aluminum work is equally fine.
A pleasure to view, thank you.
Royce
A pleasure to view, thank you.
Royce
There was more interest than I expected on the aluminum tanks. Seeing as how this is the "Fabrication and Techniques" forum, I figured I'd do a ride-along on my next tank so folks could see how I did it, and maybe glean something.
So this is what I start with. A pile of bent and machined parts.
First thing I do is make sure everything is deburred and there is not any dross from the laser on the edges. Nicholson makes a super nice file cut for aluminum. I just run this on the edges of the sheet quick to take off any burrs.
I then start fitting up and tacking the side panels to the top structure.
I shoot for an outside corner joint, and if it doesn't immediately match up, a trick I use is to take a thin piece of sheet metal and use it as a little lever to slip the edges into alignment.
Once I get it where I want it, I hold it with my torch hand, and make a tack.
If I have the opposite problem, the gap is too wide, I make a quick tack across the gap, and tap it into alignment.
I work my way around the tank, tacking every 6 inches or so.
Once I am all tacked up, I weld the seams. I do 6 inches or so at a time, skipping around the tank to evenly distribute the heat.
Once the tank itself is welded out, I attach the mounting tabs, hose bungs and filler neck. I plan to make a fixture to locate the tabs, I just haven't gotten around to it. It doesn't take that long with a tape measure and combo square.
I hold it in place with a bar clamp to get it tacked up.
This is the trickiest part. The tacks have to be fast. If I linger too long, the sheet heats up too much and pushes away from the bracket. I focus the heat on the bracket until I get a small puddle, then I quick wash it down onto the sheet.
I tack all the brackets, bungs and the filler neck first before I weld them. It gets too hot to try and measure and fuss with a bracket to tack it when you've just welded the bracket 6 inches away.
The filler neck has to be at a slight angle, mostly for looks but to make it easier to add gas. The angle itself isn't critical, just needs to be there. I use my 3rd hand tool to hold the filler neck wedged at an angle to get some tacks on it.
I then weld out the brackets first.
Then the bungs. I use a TIG finger from Jody at Welding Tips and Tricks at this point. Very hot. I also use a kevlar hot glove to rest my hand on in some places.
The last thing I do is weld the filler neck in. Its enough thicker than the sheet that I give it a few seconds of pre-heat with a plumbing torch.
Done and ready to be delivered to the customer.
Thanks for looking.
So this is what I start with. A pile of bent and machined parts.
First thing I do is make sure everything is deburred and there is not any dross from the laser on the edges. Nicholson makes a super nice file cut for aluminum. I just run this on the edges of the sheet quick to take off any burrs.
I then start fitting up and tacking the side panels to the top structure.
I shoot for an outside corner joint, and if it doesn't immediately match up, a trick I use is to take a thin piece of sheet metal and use it as a little lever to slip the edges into alignment.
Once I get it where I want it, I hold it with my torch hand, and make a tack.
If I have the opposite problem, the gap is too wide, I make a quick tack across the gap, and tap it into alignment.
I work my way around the tank, tacking every 6 inches or so.
Once I am all tacked up, I weld the seams. I do 6 inches or so at a time, skipping around the tank to evenly distribute the heat.
Once the tank itself is welded out, I attach the mounting tabs, hose bungs and filler neck. I plan to make a fixture to locate the tabs, I just haven't gotten around to it. It doesn't take that long with a tape measure and combo square.
I hold it in place with a bar clamp to get it tacked up.
This is the trickiest part. The tacks have to be fast. If I linger too long, the sheet heats up too much and pushes away from the bracket. I focus the heat on the bracket until I get a small puddle, then I quick wash it down onto the sheet.
I tack all the brackets, bungs and the filler neck first before I weld them. It gets too hot to try and measure and fuss with a bracket to tack it when you've just welded the bracket 6 inches away.
The filler neck has to be at a slight angle, mostly for looks but to make it easier to add gas. The angle itself isn't critical, just needs to be there. I use my 3rd hand tool to hold the filler neck wedged at an angle to get some tacks on it.
I then weld out the brackets first.
Then the bungs. I use a TIG finger from Jody at Welding Tips and Tricks at this point. Very hot. I also use a kevlar hot glove to rest my hand on in some places.
The last thing I do is weld the filler neck in. Its enough thicker than the sheet that I give it a few seconds of pre-heat with a plumbing torch.
Done and ready to be delivered to the customer.
Thanks for looking.
sqznby
Well-known member
Wow, great tutorial and even more so amazing skills. The end result is beautiful, nicely done.
Love the third hand, first time seeing one in the actual shape of a hand. Nice touch, may have to borrow that if you don't mind.
Love the third hand, first time seeing one in the actual shape of a hand. Nice touch, may have to borrow that if you don't mind.
KMinAF
Well-known member
Practice certainly has resulted in perfection, nice work!