Drill Doctor Reviews

[Bottlecapdigger]

I bought mine at a garage sale for 10$ I think it was, 750 model. I also bought a box full of drill bits with it. Looking through the bits after I got it home a lot of the bits weren't sharpened correctly, the angle was backwards or something like that. I'm thinking if the guy knew how to correctly set up the bits in the collet and grind them properly there's no way he would of sold it to me that cheep. Oh well his loss my gain. So make sure the bits are oriented correctly in the collet before tightening. They are a great tool and sharpen perfectly. BCD.

 

[koditten]

Funny, just used mine an hour ago. Needed to sharpen a 1/2" bit. It Works awesome. Hot chips of metal everywhere!

 

[James-W]

I got it at sharpening supplies. It is VERY spendy though. I think it was almost $600 for the tool and the hand tool bundle and then the drill bit attachment is another $280. That said, it lets you sharpen anything to razor status. I just prefer very sharp tools, makes life easier in my opinion so to me it was worth it.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Tormek-T4-P550C18.aspx

Thank you for the info, much appreciated. I am not really all that concerned about the cost because I realize precision equipment is expensive. As long as the equipment works VERY well, then I am a happy camper.

I have planer knives to sharpen, a few drill bits, and I have some chisels that need to be sharpened as well.

I am in agreement, I prefer using sharp cutting tools. Half-sharp cutting tools are not fun to use.

 

[thammel]

I have a drill doctor and the trick is in using it properly. If you follow the directions exactly, you can basically have new drill bits. Of course, if there was a nitride coating initially, you will lose that. But for basic drill bits, it works great. Now, when I first used it, I didn't follow the directions perfectly and kept getting screwy results. I slowed down and read every word, then I figured out how to use it properly. Great tool.

Tom

 

[cheechi]

I have a 750x. Here's the real deal. There's a bit of a learning curve, its best for bigger drills. Best results with HSS bits. coated bits never come out as good after sharpening. if you're hoping to reuse cobalt drills over and over after they dull, well no. you will get whatever is under, either hcs or hss drill instead. doesn't mean it's bad just need to temper expectations that's all.

Here's how I learned. I took a drill that should have been scrapped. ran it through and sharpened it more or less by feel until it came out sharp. and by sharp you can split paper on the cutting edge if you do it right. I got ok results with the instructions and the video, but when you do it by feel you can feel it smooth out grinding it down and that's the better results.

 

[drmarkr]

I have a drill doctor and the trick is in using it properly. If you follow the directions exactly, you can basically have new drill bits. Of course, if there was a nitride coating initially, you will lose that. But for basic drill bits, it works great. Now, when I first used it, I didn't follow the directions perfectly and kept getting screwy results. I slowed down and read every word, then I figured out how to use it properly. Great tool.

Tom

Yep. Those hating on the device very likely didn't take the time to learn how to use it properly.

I worked in a machine shop for several years ('70's) and one of the old masters taught me how to hand sharpen....and I always use the DD. Keep a small container by my bit storage and drop them in there as they get dull. When there's a good pile, and I have an hour or so, I sharpen them all.

Agree you have to be particularly careful to get those <1/8" sharpened properly. The biggest trip up I've noticed is using caution when you give the holder the final tighten before sharpening....if your not careful, the drill will turn slightly after you've set the position with the jig, and mess up your angles.

 

[PelicanPines]

I have a drill doctor and the trick is in using it properly. If you follow the directions exactly, you can basically have new drill bits. Of course, if there was a nitride coating initially, you will lose that. But for basic drill bits, it works great. Now, when I first used it, I didn't follow the directions perfectly and kept getting screwy results. I slowed down and read every word, then I figured out how to use it properly. Great tool.

Tom

^^^^ this.

I have a 750 and it works perfectly IF I follow the directions and take my time. It's not magic... you actually must use it correctly. If you are the type that doesn't think directions are for you... step away from the machine.

 

[brownbagg]

so i guess now, it not the machine, you just stupid. goes back to what i said, you cant say anything negative about a product because you will be attack as being too stupid to play with tools. it could never occur that it is actually the machine fault

 

[kaymccampbell]

Drill bits aren't pencils. A simple stick it in and crank twice won't work. You have to be willing to learn how to sharpen them by hand on the bench grinder or learn how to use the helper tool (DD or Tormek). If you're not willing to learn, whichever process you choose, then HD sells them shiny new and sharp on happy little cards.

Oh, BTW, feel free to send me all your dull bits. I sharpen mine freehand on a bench grinder and it's one of the easiest shop tasks I ever learned, next to sweeping up..

 

[bob15]

so i guess now, it not the machine, you just stupid. goes back to what i said, you cant say anything negative about a product because you will be attack as being too stupid to play with tools. it could never occur that it is actually the machine fault

I guess, if the shoe fits, wear it . If you read the directions, the machine is extremely simple and accurate to use. Heck, they have videos on youtube that show how to use it properly. What is the issue with your that it doesn't work for you?

There are too many people out there who use it properly and get good results to blame the machine.

Like i said earlier, if you hate yours so much and don't use it, send it to me. I will see that it goes to a good home with someone that will be taught how to use it properly.

 

[moonpool145]

I will add a bit more here. The DD does serve well and can do a decent job sharpening bits. As with everything in this world you do need to do it right. Good tools coupled with good skill produce great results.

My biggest issue with the DD is the speed of the grinding wheel. It imparts too much heat into the edge of the bit. Like koditten said:

"Funny, just used mine an hour ago. Needed to sharpen a 1/2" bit. It Works awesome. Hot chips of metal everywhere!"

In my experience, keeping the edge cool is critical to proper sharpening. The DD is a quick way of sharpening a bit but it imparts too much heat due to that speed, even with a light touch. This is why I like low speed, water cooled wheels.

Just my $0.02

 

[zendriver]

so i guess now, it not the machine, you just stupid. goes back to what i said, you cant say anything negative about a product because you will be attack as being too stupid to play with tools. it could never occur that it is actually the machine fault

A DD is a pretty simple device, with only three moving parts - a grinding wheel and a rotating fixture, with a rotating clamping .
ring.

For the most part, drill bits, are exactly the same.

The DD sells very well and very many, including myself, report great results with minimal effort, while relatively few (IMO) are completely dissatisfied, with their results.

What are we supposed to think? If an individual DD unit is not right, for some reason, the first step would usually, to get a replacement from the manufacturer.

 

[243]

How do ya'll experts in hand grinding, keep the angle at say, 135 degrees rather than 137 or 132 degrees, eyeballing?

 

[zendriver]

IMO, the only reason anyone ever sharpened drill bits by hand, is because they had no other choice.

I worked in several commercial metal shops. Silly them, they spent 10's of thousands of dollars on bit sharpening machines, when they could easily and accurately sharpen by hand.

 

[zendriver]

How do ya'll experts in hand grinding, keep the angle at say, 135 degrees rather than 137 or 132 degrees, eyeballing?

Proper magnification.

 

[va.grouseman]

I have the DD 250 for small bits and the 750 for large.---The 250 won't do the double grind that the 750 will but I get really sharp bits from both.---Takes a little practice to get the hang of using them but it's worth it.---I'll pick a rainy day and set down and sharpen a fist full.

Stands to reason that bits may not cut quite as good as a new one because of the temper.---The temper quality probably falls off the further back you go on a bit.---The shank for instance is hardly tempered at all so the drill chuck can bite into it.---Otherwise with the slightest resistance on the bit from what your drilling, the bit would just spin in the chuck.---Take a 42% cobalt bit for instance, if the bit was tempered the same from end to end, the chuck couldn't begin to get a grip.

I have to also include the blessing of being able to hand sharpen bits on a grinder.---I use the side of the emery wheel because it is smoother.---This also takes some practice to perfect.---Helps if you can watch someone that knows how first.---A coworker of mine showed me how and for years it's all I had to keep my bits alive.---It paid off handsomely to, cause most people think when a bit is chipped or snapped in half it's ruined.---I would find them in the trash and put them on the grinder and,,,good as new.---I've found anything from an 1/8'' to 1 1/4 bits in the trash that just had a chunk chipped off one side and no one knew what to do for it but go get a new one.---Just a minute or two of flat grinding to get the cutting edges back to symmetrical and then start the roll.---Had to start taking them home to do it though cause when coworkers saw that the (broke-in-half bit) was good as new, it wasn't trash anymore.

The trick to hand sharpening is the pitch or angle you hold the bit to the emery, and the roll.---Got to keep them moving.---Stopping anywhere and you got a flat spot.---The angle has to be right and the grind has to have a roll or dome to it.---The high spot being the cutting edge naturally.---Right at the edge is the trickiest part, you have to look real close and make sure that the roll starts immediately after the cutting edge or it won't cut hot butter.

Seems to be no middle road for the DD.---Either you like them or you don't.

 

[larry_g]

How do ya'll experts in hand grinding, keep the angle at say, 135 degrees rather than 137 or 132 degrees, eyeballing?

I have a few 'Drill point angle gauges' that I use. I also have a line scribed on my grinder rest to reference against. The angle is not critical and can change for the material being used. If you pay attention the gauge in the link below you will see the recommended angles for different materials. If you really want angle information get a Machinerys Handbook. More important than angle is that each cutting edge be the same length and the same angle as the other one.

https://www.engineersblackbook.com/index.php?app=drillgage Drill bits are a complicated cutting tool. Many think a pencil is just that. Talk to an old draftsman and he'll school you on the differences. Same with drill bits. To some its just goes in the drill motor and makes holes, any will work. To a machinest the correct bit with the correct point geometry is essential to a successful on size, round, and in position hole.

In other realms of the machining world a twist drill makes a very crude hole, something that then must be bored, reamed, honed, or lapped. Or some other process to get the hole needed. Making holes can be serious business.

lg
no neat sigline

 

[243]

Proper magnification.

Can you explain this, magnification of what?

A tool, a gauge, a jig?

 

[zendriver]

Can you explain this, magnification of what?

A tool, a gauge, a jig?

This was a joke. I agree that "eyeballing" cannot be as accurate as an actual fixture.

 

[ixlr8]

I have one and do not like it. About 6 months ago I purchased a Tormek with a good number of the jigs. Now thats the only thing I use to sharpen drill bits, chisels, knives, planer blades. Everything.

I think its the best thing out there.

MP- That Tormek system looks to be very good, and very expensive, but you tend to get what you pay for. My list of things to sharpen is the same as yours. I have been doing it by hand on a grinder, but I have not been as consistent as I would like. I am going to look into this system some more, thanks for the info.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I believe mine is the DD350. I bought it at the neighbor's auction, it was still NIB and I only paid (IIRC) $14 for it. I've used it a few times when I had a few dull bits rather than make the trip to town for a new bit. It worked fine for me and I have considered that it has paid for itself already.

 

[493mike]

Is there a sharpener available for "small" bits? I hand sharpen all the sizes I can see. I suppose I could set up a magnifying system, but I would also need a fine grit grinding wheel. Any leads?
Mike

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

Wow, lots of misinformation here. I think most, if not all the naysayers and second hand naysayers with a friend who had a bad experience with a Drill Doctor are kinda like me. I bought the tool (750 model), discarded the directions and proceeded to ruined several bits. I thought the thing was a piece of ****. Then one afternoon I had some time, my reading glasses, and a bunch of dull bits. So I read the directions. Imagine my surprise when I realized you don't use the tool like a pencil sharpener! If you set the dull bit up correctly (takes about 1 second) it will sharpen just fine.

I have had plenty of success sharpening sizes from 1/8 to 1/2 inch.

Factory sharp? Yes, I would say they come out as sharp as factory.

Durability? No the sharpened bits do not hold the tip as long as factory. However were I to harden the tip (torch heat, and oil quench, repeat) I think they would last...

Tool longevity? It utilizes a sharpening stone. They get dull. Amazon sells replacement stones for cheap.

Is the Drill Doctor a worthwhile investment? I would say yes it is.

 

[thammel]

Tim - my exact same experience!
Tom

 

[justanengineer]

JMO but if you're a buy-it-new or want-it-now tool guy working on low-precision parts then go for it, if you need decent precision or are willing to buy used then I'd suggest a professional drill sharpener. I've used various models of the DD over the past 20'ish years including the 750x I gave my brother after finding it in an auction lot, they're great for those who cant offhand grind a drill and need a quick touchup of their woodworking bits but they do cause a bit of runout and dont really put a decent edge on the drill which causes the durability issues mentioned by others. Personally I can usually do better, faster simply by offhand grinding on the bench grinder. The 750x new is also $150-200 depending where you shop, that much or slightly more will often buy a professional quality used drill grinder from any number of companies thatve made them over the past century. My Darex M5 in like-new condition (PO only used it a few times) with every attachment was only $250 at auction and will retain its value well unlike the DD.

Bottom line fellas - contrary to what many think they know, Darex makes an entire line of drill sharpeners for good reason, the DD being the bottom in terms of accuracy and quality. If its good enough for you then great, but just bc someone else disagrees doesn't make them wrong nor does it mean they need to learn how to use it, if it did then most machine shops in this country are wrong for buying machines that cost 50x+ as much.

 

[zendriver]

From an observation, the drill doctor basically falls in one of two camps.

1. Those who seem to be able to get it to produce nice sharp bits, to drill through wood or metal.

2. Those who cannot get it to produce a nice sharp bits in therefore must buy something more expensive and complex.


I've only use mine three times but it produce the edge it look like a factory edge but if it wasn't, got the drilling job done way easier than when the bit was dull.


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[APEowner]

A DD is a pretty simple device, with only three moving parts - a grinding wheel and a rotating fixture, with a rotating clamping .
ring.

For the most part, drill bits, are exactly the same.

The DD sells very well and very many, including myself, report great results with minimal effort, while relatively few (IMO) are completely dissatisfied, with their results.

What are we supposed to think? If an individual DD unit is not right, for some reason, the first step would usually, to get a replacement from the manufacturer.

If this is your understanding of drill bits (and for lots of uses it's true) then the DD will most likely serve you well.

 

[fsae0607]

I have a 750x and love it. It doesn't work for bits below 1/8" as others have stated (glad it wasn't only me).

What I like about it is that you can custom grind the bits. I have two sets of bits: one for metal and one for wood. I like to sit down on a Friday after work, pour a glass of whiskey and sharpen some bits to some music to unwind.

 

[zendriver]

If this is your understanding of drill bits (and for lots of uses it's true) then the DD will most likely serve you well.

Wasn't that the whole point of the this thread, in the first place?

Sure, there are plenty of specialty bits - that most people will never use.

It's kind hard to justify why somebody might need A $2000 bit sharpener when they probably have an index with one or two types of twist drill bits.



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[GRX]

Drill Doctor? No thanks. I was trained as a tool & die machinist and can hand sharpen my own.

Plus I sometimes need a different rake angle or cutting edge for softer more "gummy" non-ferrous metals like copper and brass. Have even needed to drill 18k gold on occasion.

 

[justanengineer]

It's kind hard to justify why somebody might need A $2000 bit sharpener when they probably have an index with one or two types of twist drill bits.

Its also difficult to justify buying $5k+ of SO box new when a HF will hold as many for less, but many here do. Personally, if that $2k sharpener is $200 used then its much easier. Personally, after moving 7x in the past 15 years I buy tools with full knowledge that I may have to sell them and try to recoup money invested at some point. FWIW, the OP also did say he had a few hundred drills to keep sharp.

JMO but the DD isnt the be-all/end-all best drill sharpener as many here suggest. If it fits someone's needs then great, but when others say it doesnt do a great job that doesnt mean they cant use it properly nor does it imply their drills are turning out any different than those who believe its a great sharpener. It simply means the sharpening quality isnt up to their standard. House-hunting the past few months I've been in a similar mode - many folks LOVE their homes and believe them to be top-quality, personally I disagree for many reasons.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

So, I come here and ask the 64 million question....Is the Drill Doctor worth having?

Not to me. The boss bought one for our shop a long time ago. I used it for about a dozen bits before I noticed the stone must be wearing and not giving a true edge anymore. Also didn't like the PITA of getting a bit set into the collet . I gave up and just went back to hand sharpening (a minor skill picked up from machinist experience). That little machine has sat in the toolbox unused for the last 10 years or so....

 

[zmotorsports]

Personally I don't think they are worth it nor do I like using it. Our shop bought one many years ago and my co-workers fell in love with it, but that is probably because they cannot sharpen a drill bit by hand. I was fortunate to learn how to hand grind drill bits back in my youth and have never liked any of those contraptions.

I also do NOT ever put a drill bit away or back in its holder before it is inspected and/or sharpened or touched up. When I pull a drill bit out of the mill, drill press or drill motor, I inspect it carefully and if I pushed it a bit and dulled it or chipped an edge, I dress it immediately before it goes back in the case. Nothing worse than needing to drill a quick hole, reach for a drill bit and it has the corned knocked off or is dull. Another reason I don't use the community drill bits at work NOR do I let my co-workers use my personal drill bits.

My suggestion to the OP would be to used those piles of drill bits and learn how to sharpen them by hand. In the end it is a skill well worthy to possess and it is also quicker than grabbing a Drill Doctor or any other sharpening contraption.

Mike.

 

[GRX]

Mike nailed it ^^

My thread on drill bit sharpening should be a big help. Many members contributed good info there.

>> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135850

 

[zendriver]

Interesting and informative responses, making me realize why I like the drill doctor.

After a 60+ hour work week and all the required family BS, it finally gets time to do a project, usually fixing something that is broken. If I am using a drill and a bit has become dull, my only real resharpening options are:

1. Purchase a belt sander with the proper grit belt, or make sure my bench grinding wheel is perfectly dressed. Proceed to relearn ( I learned to hand sharpen bits, with piss poor eyesight working in the metal processing industry - 30 years ago) The lost art of hand sharpening drills, practicing to try to get it right.

2. Spend two minutes with the drill doctor and then proceed to Focus on finishing whatever drilling task needs to be done. So that I can move onto the next task.

Certainly there are many with the time and inclination as well as the eyesight to learn a new craft.

But they're probably just as many, who just need sharp drill bits, quickly. Which is probably why the DD sells well.


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[jgorm]

I've sharpened 100s of bits and love mine. I sharpen bits every time I need to drill thick metal, or whenever they get dull. It takes maybe a minute and sure beats trying harder with a dull bit!

 

[bob15]

Not to me. The boss bought one for our shop a long time ago. I used it for about a dozen bits before I noticed the stone must be wearing and not giving a true edge anymore. Also didn't like the PITA of getting a bit set into the collet . I gave up and just went back to hand sharpening (a minor skill picked up from machinist experience). That little machine has sat in the toolbox unused for the last 10 years or so....

Loosen the drill bit in the collet and re-adjust it and it will work fine. Sometimes it isn't quite perfectly line up with the metal fingers, it will do that.

 

[brownbagg]

i read my instruction, went throught a couple youtube video, did everything they did, and my drill doctor is still a POS

 

[pepi]

i read my instruction, went throught a couple youtube video, did everything they did, and my drill doctor is still a POS

Maybe try the DD site instead of **** tube, then again maybe it is just to complicated for you.

 

[bob15]

i read my instruction, went throught a couple youtube video, did everything they did, and my drill doctor is still a POS

Which one do you have?