JOE.G
Well-known member
Just wondering what drill doctor you guys would recommend for a Home owner that does wood working and metal work. I have not used one of these since the late 90's and I am assuming they have improved since then. Thanks
Drill Doctor, Which Model?
- Thread starter JOE.G
- Start date
jayemm
Well-known member
I had the 500X model that did split points. One reason I bought it. I don't go through drill bits fast but liked the idea of resharpening and of course there's the 'new toy' aspect' Had a few good and more not so good results. Maybe my technique but too many inconsistent results. Gave up on trying to split points and just sharpening. Having to 'split the web' sucked and finally gave it away to a friend. I could have bought a lot of new drill bits for the $100+ cost of the DD. Just my story.
I think I'm going to try one of those angle grinder drill bit sharpening guides. Seems like there's a learning curve, but the results are alright - plus most of the bits worth my time to sharpen are larger sizes than fit in a drill doctor. They're pretty cheap too - check out the one from Lee Valley for example (cost of a bench grinder not included of course).
There's a Project Farm video showing how they work - although he clearly sets it up incorrectly, also overheats the bit and still gets decent results.
Drill Doctor appears to be the quickest and most fool-proof method, so I wouldn't poo-poo your choice if you go that route.
There's a Project Farm video showing how they work - although he clearly sets it up incorrectly, also overheats the bit and still gets decent results.
Drill Doctor appears to be the quickest and most fool-proof method, so I wouldn't poo-poo your choice if you go that route.
KomatsuTech
Well-known member
I also used one, not sure of the model. I couldn't get good results either. I went to sharpening them on a bench grinder with better results but still not great. I just buy new ones now for all the more I use drill bits at home and work. I have spares of every size so I never run out.
When I was doing commercial door hardware a lot we kept one in the job box. Some guys gave up and never learned to use it. Others had pretty good results. There is a touch and a learning curve but they work. I have my own at home now.
IndyGarage
Well-known member
I don't think they've changed much since they came out. I have one that's probably 20 years old and I use it about once a year.
You might try borrowing one for somebody or buying a used one somewhere.
It seems like many people say they do a bad job. They are a bit tricky to learn to use correctly, and it seems like I have to relearn mine every time I use it. The trick is in how you set the bit up in the clamp. You have to get the flutes oriented perfectly and the depth set right - both at the same time - and the mechanism for setting the flutes is a little chintzy.
Once you figure it out, it sharpens bits perfectly every time. I bought a set of norseman bits a few years ago, and went through and sharpened the entire set a few weeks ago, and they work perfectly again.
You might try borrowing one for somebody or buying a used one somewhere.
It seems like many people say they do a bad job. They are a bit tricky to learn to use correctly, and it seems like I have to relearn mine every time I use it. The trick is in how you set the bit up in the clamp. You have to get the flutes oriented perfectly and the depth set right - both at the same time - and the mechanism for setting the flutes is a little chintzy.
Once you figure it out, it sharpens bits perfectly every time. I bought a set of norseman bits a few years ago, and went through and sharpened the entire set a few weeks ago, and they work perfectly again.
oldwino
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have the 750X. Bought it to sharpen larger (up to 3/4”) bits. There is a bit of a learning curve (instructions pretty much worthless) but view a couple of u-tubes and it’s pretty easy. I’m happy with mine and would buy it again
Buckgnarly
Well-known member
750X here. I wait until I have a bunch to do, then do them all at once. It takes a bit to get the process down each time, that's why I do large lots of them.
kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
You guys that have had bad luck with one are obviously not using it right. Mine sharpens my bit so sharp that they grab a lot when drilling steel. I sometimes have to dull them a bit with sand paper so they are not so aggressive.
For the new Drill Doctor models, you should watch a video on how to use it; somehow, it's a bit counterintuitive. But it does work awesome. The original models failed over time- the plastic warped and then they just ruined bits. The new model is a different design, so hopefully it lasts.
seber
Well-known member
I use the 750X. I get results better than a lot of new bits. In fact I have taken some brand new ones and run them through the sharpener to improve them. Getting it set up the first time just about killed me but it was worth the effort. I finally called the company and had them walk me through it.
bob15
Well-known member
Have had the 750 since the 1990's and never had any issue with it. For those who can't figure out how to use it, maybe try and read the directions. it isn't that hard......
The original DD model was read the directions. To do 135* bits on the new model you need to watch a video. Mine is only marked 118* and a + and - to either side. Except to do 135* you go to the - side. Makes no sense. And there's no marking for 135*. I don't know if they have changed this since I bought my gen 2 edition.
I've had one for 20 plus years. This is not a tool that you treat like a pencil sharpener. You have to set it up correctly and be able to examine the bit after sharpening to check the angles and relief. If you can't QC the bit after sharpening and understand what to do to get it right then your not going to have any 'luck'.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
finn
Well-known member
Mine is the 750.
My conclusion is that I am either a slow learner or totally untrainable.
I bought a set of Norseman bits. Should have don that years ago.
My conclusion is that I am either a slow learner or totally untrainable.
I bought a set of Norseman bits. Should have don that years ago.
I was never good at sharpening on a grinder and I went with a 750X when my eyesight got so bad that I couldn't see the end of the drill. I have been very happy with it although you have to follow the instructions to the letter to get the best results. YouTube is your best training friend.
Indexmill
Well-known member
Yea, if they are a descent USA HSS bit that just needs sharpening. and you have a shitload of them. And you have time on your hands. And you have a hundred bucks, then by all means get a drill doctor, master how to use it and sharpen up all of those singles. Put em in your indexes, sell em on eBay, give em to neighbors. But, don't just shitcan good USA HSS drill bits.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I have the 500x, it has sharpened numerous indexes worth of bits. When a bit like 27/64 is $5+ each you can recoup pretty quick. Below 1/4 it doesnt work well at all, those are consumables to me. I usually sharpen once or twice per year.
ricleh
Well-known member
My experience too. I found a 750x at an estate sale a couple of weeks ago for $17.
It took me a while to figure out how to properly setup the bit, but once I learned how, I can sharpen a bit quickly. I had a lot of fun cleaning up my drill bits. Too bad you aren't closer OP, I'd sharpen yours too.
I've had four different sharpeners including a big Craftsman, a General that uses a bench grinder and a Black & Decker. The DD is much easier to use.
RoninB4
Well-known member
The large corporation bought one back in the 90's for the shop to use. I've used several different industrial drill sharpeners including Darex, Oliver, Black Diamond, etc. and know how to set-up/operate a drill sharpener. Haven't run one since or the commercial model but the one we had back then was an absolute POS. Maybe I have industrial expectations of all machinery or maybe it's because of the flimsy plastic used as reference surfaces but I wouldn't use the one we had. For the average home shop owner it's ok at best. I wouldn't trust it to grind a drill dead center (two simultaneous chip curls) if size/location was important for using the drill. There are other methods for this even if a drill is sharpened by hand.
I applaud those that choose to re-sharpen as opposed to throwing drills away but hand sharpening a drill is not so very hard to learn and you only need an inexpensive drill gauge (made of sheet metal) and a bench grinder. Yes it takes a little practice but it's just a matter of clearance behind the cutting edge (not very much) and getting the two edges equal (that's what the gauge is for). Get some used or ultra cheap drills to practice on before trying it on your good ones. I'm no genius and if I learned to do it so can you.
I applaud those that choose to re-sharpen as opposed to throwing drills away but hand sharpening a drill is not so very hard to learn and you only need an inexpensive drill gauge (made of sheet metal) and a bench grinder. Yes it takes a little practice but it's just a matter of clearance behind the cutting edge (not very much) and getting the two edges equal (that's what the gauge is for). Get some used or ultra cheap drills to practice on before trying it on your good ones. I'm no genius and if I learned to do it so can you.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
I had one and sold it. I can and do sharpen drill bits on a grinder fairly well but couldn't get the Drill Doctor to properly relief bits. Maybe their multi-thousand dollar industrial sharpeners work great, I don't know as I've never used one, but the Drill Doctor blows in my opinion.
vanapplebomb
Well-known member
I don’t care for the drill doctors. I much prefer the jigs for bench grinders. General tools has a nice and simple jig that’s just over twenty bucks that works great. Only downside is you can’t sharpen a split point. It only creates chisel points… and honestly, I couldn’t care less. A good sharp chisel point will punch through tough steel no problem.
Innovate1
Well-known member
I saw an ad for the Drill Doctor recently and thought about getting one. I got one for a carpenter friend quite a few years ago and think he used and liked it but don't know for sure. I don't go through a lot of bits so the cost and trouble may not be worth it. But the General jig is interesting and low cost. I saw some comments it is very similar but less well built than an earlier Craftsman jig and I see those are available for about the same cost or less (about $10-$20). Might give that a try. I know it can be done freehand but does the jig make it easier and give a better edge? I realize this is going to vary a lot based on skill and experience of the operator. I haven't done this before but would say I have at least average skills for this sort of thing although as I get older I am starting to get a bit less steady with the hands.
bwringer
Well-known member
You steely-eyed, protractor-handed, iron-willed "I sharpen drill bits with my TEETH" people show up in every drill bit discussion...
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
I tried a friend's DD. I did not like the results, so I bought a used STERLING and restored it. Parts are available and customer support is really good. My sterling was made in 1968. My Sterling works perfectly on 1/8″ to 2-1/2″ Diameter Drills. The weight is 345 lbs
The Sterling has changed very little since 1939, the year of the first design change. The origins date back about 100 years.
If a person goes for a new Sterling, be prepared to lay out $4500usd. I have spent less than $600cdn on the original purchase and restoration which included a few new parts.
http://www.sterlingdrillgrinder.com/index.html
The Sterling has changed very little since 1939, the year of the first design change. The origins date back about 100 years.
If a person goes for a new Sterling, be prepared to lay out $4500usd. I have spent less than $600cdn on the original purchase and restoration which included a few new parts.
http://www.sterlingdrillgrinder.com/index.html
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dnschmidt
Well-known member
Yea, and what's wrong with that? Actually it greatly depends upon how far gone the drill is prior to trying to sharpen it. If all it needs is a touch up it's really quite easy to do as the angles aren't going to be much affected. If you let it go to the point of carnage then you need to get the angle and the lip height right and that's a lot tougher. One thing I did find out is that using a conventional grinder is much superior to using a belt grinder as the conventional grinder, due to it's wheel being round, is much easier to get the back relief you need.
Imagine if you are a girl saying that will never get you laid.
toolmiser
Well-known member
I've used mine with pretty good success. I think it is the 750. I bought some LONG, maybe 18" bits at Harbor Freight. They were not expected to be used a lot nor good, and they met my expectations. One 3/8" in one brand new wouldn't drill in pine. I tried many ways and watched many Utube videos about sharpening and after a week, I gave up and did it by hand on a grinder. Must have been a weird spiral or something on the bit, and I tried indexing it all around the bit. But to some it up, mine works good on decent bits.
scooby074
Well-known member
Save your money. I have a 500 (I think) that came before they added the split point feature. I never use it.
Just learn how to sharpen. 3/16-1/4 and up I sharpen, 3/16 under I toss and replace. Even quality bits at that size are only a couple bucks each. You can buy a lot for the price of a DD.
If you want to get fancy, buy a Starrett (or General etc.) drill gauge. It will help you get the angles right and get your point on centre. I made one in trade school as a machine shop project and I still use it to this day when Im trying to correct a bit that is either off centre or broken and Im trying to re-establish a correct centre.
Just learn how to sharpen. 3/16-1/4 and up I sharpen, 3/16 under I toss and replace. Even quality bits at that size are only a couple bucks each. You can buy a lot for the price of a DD.
If you want to get fancy, buy a Starrett (or General etc.) drill gauge. It will help you get the angles right and get your point on centre. I made one in trade school as a machine shop project and I still use it to this day when Im trying to correct a bit that is either off centre or broken and Im trying to re-establish a correct centre.