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drill & drive - what do i need?

southpier

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Jun 28, 2009
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battery powered pair of 3/8", 12v, dewalt screw guns have got me by for years. now, I want a new pair for the van toolbag. everything I look at appears to be 1/2" chuck & 20 volt battery. it seems like overkill for a road kit, but I can adapt if that's where industry has taken us.

I have always just used two drills, set to "drill" mode, for both making holes & installing fasteners. the combination kits have a drill & impact driver.

Q:does an impact driver do a better job?


Q2: how or when should I use it?



thanks
 
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signcrafter

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Impact is a lot better for fasteners. Should be used for any fastener. It's a big improvement over 15 years ago when we all used drills to drive screws. I've found it doesn't strip as many screws out and drives larger screws/lag bolts much easier. Also can use it for nuts and bolts and it does a better job then a drill.

Go with the Milwaukee M12 FUEL drill/driver kit which can be had for around 200 bucks and usually can find a deal for free extra battery or extra tool with that. The m12 still has 1/2" chuck and the drill also has a hammer drill mode. The driver is light and powerful. Sounds perfect for what you need. Home depot should have the fuel kit on display if you want to go pick it up and feel it.
 

ItsNemo

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I find the latest 20v stuff no more bulky than the 10+ year old lower voltage stuff that you're probably used to but has far more performance. For the price, I'd just buy a 20v kit with the 2ah batteries even and be done with it.
 

CJ7VFR

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Impact is a lot better for fasteners. Should be used for any fastener. It's a big improvement over 15 years ago when we all used drills to drive screws. I've found it doesn't strip as many screws out and drives larger screws/lag bolts much easier. Also can use it for nuts and bolts and it does a better job then a drill....

This.

I have used my cordless drill for driving fasteners for years. I have a bunch of Craftsman C3 cordless stuff, and while the drill did an ok job of driving shorter fasteners, but for the longer ones, or if I was using any type of hardwood for a project, it would definitely strip screw heads!

Just recently I bought a Craftsman Nextec 12V Impact driver. I wanted it because it is a lot smaller than my drill, it was on sale for a really good price, I already have a few Nextec items as well as the C3 items, so I had some extra batteries, and the best part is the Impact driver puts out over 3 times the torque versus the drill.

The first time I used the Impact driver I tried it on 4 inch long screws into a piece of pressure treated 6x6 I had laying around.

At first I thought there was something wrong with the Impact driver because it makes a heck of a noise once it started to really put some torque out. But apparently that is what they all do. If you are not ready for it, it sounds like the thing is coming apart!

But damn, it drove those 4 inch long screws into that wood like it was butter. I got out my C3 drill and tried to drive the same screws. Once they got about 2/3 of the way in the bit started to jump and strip out the screw head. It was not going to drive that screw all the way in. I put the Impact driver on the same stripped screw and it drove it in the rest of the way.

One thing I did do was buy a higher quality Impact driver bit set that has a bunch of screw bits, a few Torx bits, some nut driver bits, and even a few drill bits. I like to use the drill bits and driver bits in this set to assemble things I make out of pressure treated wood. The drill bits have hex shanks on them so they pop in and out of the Impact driver fast and easy.

Jim
 

sberry

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This is a place to spend up and buy near the best. Some of the batteries are in the 6ah range. That is a loto poop. It makes a difference.
 
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matt_i

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Impact driver - all screws. In the M18 version I find it sensitive enough to drive T10 trim screws and stout enough to drive 6" long structural screws.

Drill - twist drills and taps.

In years gone by I used the drill to drive all screws and structural screws weren't even a thing yet. That old drill still works but has lost all fine speed control, its zero or wide open throttle, I believe from wearing out the brushes....however it was not economical to replace them in the face of new battery technology.
 

Alexander

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My choice for 12v would be the Bosch set, but it's personal preference at this point, and depends heavily on what you're actually doing with them. Most 12v will have a 3/8" chuck. The milwaukee 12v are slightly larger but include a 1/2" chuck. All modern versions will be significantly more powerful than a very old 12v. Stepping up to 18v is also an option, but size and weight increase significantly. All major tool brands offer 12v, though the 18v is more heavily advertised as you've noticed.

I couldn't function without an impact driver. They're the go-to for any type of fastener, though like any tool there are drawbacks. They are louder than a drill, and you can't set a specific stopping torque like you can with a drill clutch (not that you seem to use it). It's all about feel with an impact, and after a while it'll become second nature. As a third option, Bosch (and others) also sells a 'driver' which is a small drill motor that uses a 1/4" hex shank, so you could get that if you find an impact isn't right for your needs. It's larger than an impact, but smaller than a regular drill, if size matters.

My opinion is that you should be satisfied with the offerings from any of the major brands. Each has their pros and cons (size/weight/power/price), but all should serve a long and productive life.

Hope that helps.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Milwaukee DOES make a M12 3/8" drill but it is NOT use the Fuel brushless motor (2407-20). Still fine for smaller hole. I do highly recommend the M12 Fuel impact driver. I bought one with a 3/8' square drive (2454-20) and use a 1/4" hex adapter.
 
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kctyphoon

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If you want a compromise between voltage vs size, and still have the bigger power - basically you have two options. The Milwaukee m12 fuel kits, which offers a wide variety of other stuff to pick from also, or the Makita sub compact 20v. Both has some advantages. Milwaukee has a huge selection of 12v tools which are generally smaller but powerful for 12v (the new m12 impact driver demos as being faster than makitas sub compact 20v). It really is amazing what their 12v tools can do. With makita's sub compact 20v - they have smaller 20v tools, but the batteries (as far as I know) are compatible with the full size 20v line.

If you're just wanting two tools - and you KNOW (not think) you'll never wanna get anything else, it's just a toss up really. Pick your favorite color, which grip you like better,. Both are good brands. Milwaukee will get my vote though. The new m12 fuel drill and impact look amazing, and you can get a 12v 1/2" hammer drill in a really compact form.

Also - Milwaukee makes hex based drill bits designed to use in an impact driver as well. Some people like using it like that - it basically a mini utility style impact drill at that point. If nothing else you could use it with larger spade bits and never have to worry about twisting your wrist.

Oh - and Milwaukee has 12v battery selections in 2 sizes. Compact and XC (or flat bottom). Compact batteries range from 1.5, 2.0, and 3.0amp hrs.. the bigger goes from 3.0, 4.0, and even 6.0 now.
Check em out here -

And just for fun, the new m18 stuff - keep in mind smaller batteries are available for these.

Oh - and since you're mobile, let's not forget Milwaukee just released an m12 inflator too for car and truck tires
 
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southpier

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thanks; helpful & informative information.

now shopping for father's day sales on the web.
 

WWheeler

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If I'm doing hinges or anything where I need to center the pilot hole to put a screw in a bracket or whatnot I use one of these self centering flip drill and drive's. The spring-loaded guide centers the drill bit in the hinge hole and then I flip it around and screw it in. Once I get one screw so the hinge or strike plate etc is held in place in I flip it and drill all the other pilot holes, flip it again and set all the screws.

Makes quick work of hanging a door or installing a door knob and strike plate, etc where getting the screws centered is kinda critical. I have several of them in various sizes for different size hinge/bracket holes & screws from several different brands incl Dewalt, Montana, Makita, etc.





If I'm drilling 3/4" holes with a paddle bit or driving lag screws or building a deck, then yeah, an impact is the tool I grab, but for sinking typical wood screws in projects or most small home repairs I much prefer a drill. A wee bit of common sense to set the clutch correctly and use the correct bit for what you're doing and never strip a screw or sink one too deep.
 

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southpier

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that's a cool gadget. variation on the old vix bit, looks like.

the local big box store had a dewalt bit display over last weekend. 5 index boxes chock full of bits for 28$. lots of duplicates and slim on drill bits, but probably less expensive than the empty boxes alone.
 

signcrafter

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If I'm drilling 3/4" holes with a paddle bit or driving lag screws or building a deck, then yeah, an impact is the tool I grab, but for sinking typical wood screws in projects or most small home repairs I much prefer a drill. A wee bit of common sense to set the clutch correctly and use the correct bit for what you're doing and never strip a screw or sink one too deep.

The stripping really has nothing to do with setting the clutch. I've driven 10s of thousands of screws over the years. The issue I've found when using a drill to drive screws is when you get to the end of driving the screw the bit wants to slip out of the screw once it gets to a certain amount of torque. And yes I use the correct bits and quality bits. Just the nature of the beast that as torque builds up when driving a screw it has to go somewhere. Also I've found that screws snap easier when using a drill instead of a driver.

If a drill works for you then great. But in my experience I've found an impact to be a lot better for driving screws then a drill.
 

WWheeler

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The stripping really has nothing to do with setting the clutch. I've driven 10s of thousands of screws over the years. The issue I've found when using a drill to drive screws is when you get to the end of driving the screw the bit wants to slip out of the screw once it gets to a certain amount of torque. And yes I use the correct bits and quality bits. Just the nature of the beast that as torque builds up when driving a screw it has to go somewhere. Also I've found that screws snap easier when using a drill instead of a driver.

If a drill works for you then great. But in my experience I've found an impact to be a lot better for driving screws then a drill.

The clutch has everything to do with it. That's exactly what it's for and it's perfect for that. I've been using drills to drive screws for 40+ years, decades before I knew of anyone using an impact for anything but turning large fasteners, and have never ever stripped a smaller size screw (say, #10 x 1-1/4", for example), not even brass, or sunk one too deep, unless I used the wrong bit or forgot to set the clutch appropriately or skipped predrilling a pilot hole, etc. It just doesn't happen.

Larger screws, yeah, use an impact.

Edit: I'll add, I like to start on a test piece of scrap of the same material I'm working with. I get the appropriate size pilot bit and set the depth on it for the length screws I'm using. Drill a hole and then start out trying to sink the screw in it with the clutch set too low.

At least on every Dewalt I've had, a '1' clutch setting is typically only for screwing machine-style screws/bolts in threaded fasteners, not strong enough to even turn anything but the tiniest screw in wood. We typically only use a '1' when working on computers, electronics, etc (and the clutch on the drill or cordless screwdriver works amazingly well for that), so when working with a soft wood I'll usually start out with a clutch setting of '2' which is also usually too low to even turn the screw - or strip it. I'll begin dialing up the clutch until it sets the screw exactly how I want. Then I'll drill another pilot and do another practice screw to double-check, and maybe even a third or fourth especially if I'm working with soft wood where you'll get some variance due to changes in the grain, as opposed to MDF, for example. After that's all good I'll zip through whatever project I'm working on pulling the trigger full blast and let it rip, letting the clutch do it's job.

Using a drill with a clutch is way quicker and more reliable for setting screw depth and preventing stripping of smaller screws than trying to feather the variable-speed trigger on an impact. That's of course assuming the clutch works properly and not too strong even on lower settings <- Not sure if that's a Milwaukee prob at-large or just with that particular one, but it's disconcerting either way.

I definitely prefer to use an impact when working projects with larger screws especially when I'm not predrilling pilot holes, like when screwing down a deck. An impact is a lot easier on the wrist too if you have hundreds of screws to set. On smaller stuff I'm just waaay too likely to sink screws too deep with an impact though. I can't get anywhere near the reliability and uniformity I get using a drill with a clutch.
 
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