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E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD

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Kevin54

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OK gents - again, thanks for the cautionary tales and encouragement!
Went to the doc and of course they checked my blood pressure, drew bllod for CBC's, sugars and titres, an ECG and (another) chest xray - all clear. In follow-up he mentioned costrochondritis (inflammation of intercostal muscles) and air trapping (air in intestines) and thinks I'm experiencing both. My left lower ribs are tender to touch and I had injured them many years back. The air trapping is gas that just won't pass through and can cause severe stabbing to dull achy pains. The gas could be that I've developed a sensitivity to lactose or casein (milk, ice creme, etc) which I consume a LOT of.

Lastly, they booked me for an exercise tolerance test at the end of August. Ironic because I used to do these for a cardiac outpatient clinic when I was young and oh-so buff and think "I'll never need one of these!" Now I'm 50....


I had to look up costrochondritis and that's nothing to blow off either. It can affect more than just the muscle(s). http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/costochondritis/DS00626/DSECTION=causes
 

jgsrris11

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I didn't read through every page yet. Looks good, great work. I normally skip all the por15 and when I start a car I have it dipped to remove all paint and rust then I have the body re e coated just like all new oem sheetetal. When it is dipped the chical gets in every nook and cranny inside and out. When they e coat it it is also dipped in the coating and it gets in every nook and cranny. You can also do your major metal work before dropping it of and all of that metal will be coated inside and out.
 

santagary

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According to D'Diamo in "Eat 4 Your Type", most blood types should avoid cow dairy products. I just found out I'm an A...when all along I thought I was an O meat eater. I stopped meat and all wheat products 5 weeks ago and 17lbs has fallen away and I feel great. You might otta find that book...on Amazon maybe!
 

JC23

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You aren't preggo, are ya?

If'n you are, lemme know if'n it's girl or boy so I can be a proud aunt or uncle!
 
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e-tek

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You aren't preggo, are ya?

If'n you are, lemme know if'n it's girl or boy so I can be a proud aunt or uncle!

I hadn't thought of that! Maybe I'll be one of those people that doesn't know it until it pops out in a toilet.

Nah, could never happen - I don't shop at WalMart. :lol_hitti
 
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e-tek

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Rust Bullet sent me some product for testing and review and after doing some research on it I felt it was of sufficient quality to try on the 40 Ford. While I enjoy trying and testing new and different products, I first need to be sure they will meet my standards before I use them on one of my restorations - and judging by the research I did, this one should.

Rust Bullet is a single part urethane rust preventative paint that claims to bond to a wide variety of substrates. This is important as the frame had been painted with an epoxy, one fender was freshly sandblasted and one has a fairly consistent coating of surface rust.

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As always with these types of paints, I transfer what I'll use to a second container so as not to contaminate the original container, nor leave it open to the air for too long.

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It laid on very nicely, a touch thinner than POR15, and got tacky within minutes. Tomorrow I'll put a coat of bediner over the high-impact areas.

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36racin

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Gonzales, La
New guy here. And WoW what a thread!!!!! Is there anything that you cannot fix? Lets see I have seen you do some mastery body man, master carpenter(for both automotive and rental property), great landlord, and juggler. I have never seen anyone juggle so much stuff around, keep it organized and moving along.

How big is your shop. I have seen a Galaxy, a Trans Am, the 40, the 240 and the 27 in that one shop you work out of. Then there's a old truck, newer truck and the wifes car as well. With a few cars and the lift in that one shop and all your equipment IMO you are deserving of a vastly larger shop!!! One large enough for a paint booth(maybe you could get Duplicolor to donate one). Then all you would need is a painter to come over when you have a car to paint. You do the body repairs and call in the painter when your ready. Sounds good anyway.

I saw you have had some trouble with a few bolts and fastners. Have you ever tried "Kroil". Best penetrant I ever used for busting rusty bolts and nuts loose. I like the aerosol spray one but the sell it in liquid form as well. Give it a try if it's available up there. If not PM me and I'll get you a can to try if your interested.

Anyway keep on updating PLEASE!! I'm learing alot from just the pictures. I do like videos more since I can see what you are doing almost like being there.

Thank you for taking the time to educate us and please take care of you health. You are too valuable to your family both there at home and here on the internet as well.

Todd

PS If your ever in the New Orleans area again give me a shout. I'm sure we can line you up with some local rides to check out.
 
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e-tek

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So you are back in the workshop again. Feeling OK now ?

Yes, I am feeling quite a bit better. The rest did me wonders. Possibly I was just overworked/overstressed. I do have the exercise stress test booked and a follow up blood test (Thyroid, etc). So hopefully get more answers then.

All he needed was an evening of some paint fumes :lol_hitti

Interesting you said that - or maybe you've used RB before. It does release a LOT of VOC's.....even had to put a fan behind me to move the fumes!
 
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e-tek

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I'm doing a "Real World" side by side comparison of POR15 and RustBullet for my blog and website. After a month in the sun (no clear coat) I will bolt the sample piece to the bottom of my van for the winter. I do about 30,000Kms over a typical winter in all manners of terrible conditions so it should be one hell of a test!

The initial blog post (product application) can be seen here: E-tek Blog: Rust Paint Test, Application
 

CudaChick1968

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Hey Ed, if I sent you a little coated bracket or piece of scrap, could you work that into your Real World Test too simply because I'm curious (and others may be too)? My work has been subjected to salt spray tests (now at somewhere between 3-4,000 hours) but I think it would be cool to see how it holds up to the harshest conditions of a Canadian winter too. Of course I'll make it worth your time and effort. :D
 

Kevin54

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I'm doing a "Real World" side by side comparison of POR15 and RustBullet for my blog and website. After a month in the sun (no clear coat) I will bolt the sample piece to the bottom of my van for the winter. I do about 30,000Kms over a typical winter in all manners of terrible conditions so it should be one hell of a test!

The initial blog post (product application) can be seen here: E-tek Blog: Rust Paint Test, Application

You're going to skip the UV protectant on the POR?
 
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e-tek

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Hey Ed, if I sent you a little coated bracket or piece of scrap, could you work that into your Real World Test too simply because I'm curious (and others may be too)? My work has been subjected to salt spray tests (now at somewhere between 3-4,000 hours) but I think it would be cool to see how it holds up to the harshest conditions of a Canadian winter too. Of course I'll make it worth your time and effort. :D

Well that sounds great!! I'll put it alongside the other piece and show it all together.

You're going to skip the UV protectant on the POR?

I am. POR15 says that UV only affects its appearance and not it ability to protect from or prevent rust.
 

ddawg16

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I did the front axle and springs of my jeep with POR 15.....this much I do know....it does not do well with brake fluid.

About a week after the springs were done and I got the beast back together...I bled the brakes.....and forgot to put the cap on the MC. All of the POR came off the top of my springs....and the brake fluid was only on there for about 5 min.

I'll be watching for the results of that test.
 
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e-tek

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I did the front axle and springs of my jeep with POR 15.....this much I do know....it does not do well with brake fluid.

About a week after the springs were done and I got the beast back together...I bled the brakes.....and forgot to put the cap on the MC. All of the POR came off the top of my springs....and the brake fluid was only on there for about 5 min.

I'll be watching for the results of that test.

Thank John!
That's interesting - I did a review of POR15 vs Eastwood and Zero Rust, a spray can rust paint, a while back and showed how brake fluid took off the Zero Rust but NOT the POR15. Where your leaf springs bare, rusty or previously painted?
May be a good stand-alone test to do!
 
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Kevin54

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Another question...are you going to put the paint on rusty brackets before the "real world" test? For POR to work correctly it is actually supposed to be put on over rust.
 

fxr rider

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May 22, 2013
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Believe me it went through my mind! But no shortage of breath, no "pressure" (like the elephant feeling) and my HR stayed low. Fingers crossed!:willy_nil

I can tell you from first hand experience that I had no elephant feeling when I had my HA.My first feeling was a sharp stab to the chest like a knife.the shortness of breath came from shallow breathing to avoid the stabbing pain.I had no pain in the shoulder /arm area till after I was loaded into the ambulance.
the last thing I remember was hearing the EMS worker telling his buddy we dont have time for that lets move.Next thing I was in ER with wires an tubes all over.
To add to this I had a total of 7 heart attacks with 3 in a row before the ambulance got to me. At the time I was 46 years Old 170 lb not your typical HA candidate.The worst thing for me was it all happened in frt of my 12 year old daughter.
When I went to heart rehab they used to call me the miracle Man because of my out of nowhere heart attack with no high blood pressure no chlorestoral problems.
sorry for the long story just thought I would share mine as each one is different
 
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e-tek

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Another question...are you going to put the paint on rusty brackets before the "real world" test? For POR to work correctly it is actually supposed to be put on over rust.

Not sure I understand your Q Kevin....it WAS put on over rust!
 
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e-tek

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After spending much of the weekend on the kids swing set....

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...and hosting Colby's 12th birthday party (Mrs. E-tek made the "Despicable Me cake, complete with minions!)...

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I finally got a little work done in the shop! ;)

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I also tried to organize and clean up the shop a bit as it's very crowded right now...

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MP&C

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Had to do a double take and go back a couple pages... I thought you had bought both front fenders in NOS...

Looks like Colby had a good time at his party :rocker:
 
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e-tek

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I finally felt good enough to get off my duff and did some major sanding on the 240 today!

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The car had been painted twice previously, leaving a LOT of material that was best removed - especially from the cowl grille - so I stripped a few of the parts down to metal with 40 grit on the DA - locked to spin.

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Luckily, the hood had been replaced at some point and it had NEVER been painted.The underside is actually original paint in very good shape, so I just feathered out anu chips or thin spots to the factory primer and will give it a couple medium coats of high build primer.

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Unfortunately, the roof had a sunroof cut into it at some point in the cars life and although I don't mind having a sunroof in the car, the roof has lost a lot of strength and some of it's shape. I debated filling the hole with metal but that would take like 30 hours of work - minimum - plus all the hassle of removing and replacing all the interior roof parts. Yuk.

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e-tek

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How many projects do you have going at present Ed ?

2 or 4, depending on how you count them!

The 40Ford is going to the painters and will be gone for a few weeks, then back for re-assembly over the winter.

The 71 Datsun 240Z that will be in primer this week and painted soon. I'll re-assemble as I have time over the next couple years.

The 27 Ford Rod is a LONG TERM project....

Plus I have a 68 Camaro coming in shortly to begin teardown and then bodywork.
 
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e-tek

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All I have left to do before putting high-build primer in the 240Z is the doors. There's so much paint on them they need to be stripped and being large and flat I decided to use the heat gun and scraper.

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The left door was a replacement and had been painted several times, several different colors...

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The right door was painted twice, silver each time:

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A quick run with 80 on the DA and the should be ready for primer too! :)

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awdblazer

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hey ed sorry if this has been brought up before but is this a hobby or your full time job? I am jealous either way!! cant wait till my kids (1 and 3) get older so I can spend more time in the garage lol or have them spend time with me in it and not have to worry abouit them getting hurt
 
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e-tek

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hey ed sorry if this has been brought up before but is this a hobby or your full time job? I am jealous either way!! cant wait till my kids (1 and 3) get older so I can spend more time in the garage lol or have them spend time with me in it and not have to worry abouit them getting hurt

It's a hobby for the most part, but once in a while I do help out other people.... As it has worked out, my "real job" is only 3-days a week now, so that leaves lots of "me" time....:beer:
 

PCO6

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... There's so much paint on them they need to be stripped and being large and flat I decided to use the heat gun and scraper.
I'm curious ... do you find that better, faster, cheaper, etc? I've always used paint stripper but I should try a heat gun. I've had guys say I'm nuts while they go at it with a sanding disc because it's "faster". I find that to be a bit too destructive for me. I'd rather take my time and have a nice, smooth original metal surface to work with.
 
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e-tek

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I'm curious ... do you find that better, faster, cheaper, etc? I've always used paint stripper but I should try a heat gun. I've had guys say I'm nuts while they go at it with a sanding disc because it's "faster". I find that to be a bit too destructive for me. I'd rather take my time and have a nice, smooth original metal surface to work with.

It's funny - I've done this since I was 12 years old and have been in a LOT of shops, seen a lot of shows and read a LOT of articles and RARELY see anyone using a heat gun and scraper. I've used every sanding and stripper disc known to man as well as aircraft (chemical) stripper. If you can get it to work, it's WAY easier, cleaner, faster and cheaper than sanding discs/strippers or chemical strippers.

The caveat is that it's only useful if there are at least a few coats of paint on it as you have to use the DA at some point anyways. If the paint is either original or a repaint in decent shape, you wouldn't really need or want to strip it.
 
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bullnerd

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Getting back to the swing set...is that anchored into the ground?

I've seen the store bought style like that collapse sideways due to no diagonals. One of the store bought ones had sheetmetal braces that just buckled and some kids got hurt.
 

PCO6

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e-tek - Thanks. I'll give it a try. :thumbup:

I've always used LePage's "Poly Super Strippa" (regular stripper for most surfaces and gel for vertical surfaces). I use scrapers and coarse steel wool and even a pressure washer. With stripper timing is everything ... and it's messy.
 

Bull

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I think Ed is in pharmaceutical sales; I also don't think he watches tv or spends much time just shlumping around.
 
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