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Above 1200 Sq/FT Eastern Washington Workshop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

86turbodsl

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I've never had any luck using 3d scanning for reverse engineering, and being a cad guy, i can just measure and reverse engineer faster than any import anyway, so i never do it. That said, you did a really nice job on that part. Kudos.

Have you thought about a reversing starter for the pacemaker? Mine came with one. I didn't really think it would get used much, but maybe your experience is why mine had one?
 
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slodat

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There are a lot of applications for the scanner in the work I want to (and do) do. I also have the tracing tablet. I find each has its place. I like the scanner for reference to real geometry I make.

I bought a reversing contactor for the Pacemaker. After I got it, and starting really looking at starting and stopping a 15hp motor a lot, on a rotary phase converter, I decided against it. The beauty of a lathe with a clutch is the motor doesn’t start and stop with the spindle. And, I’ve read there’s no spindle lubrication when the motor is running backwards. I’m sure that’s fine for the limited amount of time involved.

With all that said, I’m really happy to have both lathes in the shop.
 

GeddyT

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That was the other thing I was going to ask, but I think you just answered my question:

I was wondering why you went with an RPC instead of VFD for the Pacemaker, when you seem to be a VFD guy on every other single-motor tool. The cost of RPCs--American Rotary in particular--are so high these days, and the VFD gives you soft start. I was also wondering how it was even possible that you got the 15 hp spindle started with just a 20 hp RPC. I think both questions are answered by the existence of the spindle clutch: start RPC, start lathe spindle motor unloaded, engage clutch to (relatively) slowly load spindle motor. The clutch takes the place of the VFD's soft start and allows the lathe to operate on a (slightly) undersized RPC.

Am I getting this right?

Out of curiosity, where do you typically find your machinery? I've always seen the west side of the state as a barren wasteland for good deals on old iron, but you seem to have no problem scoring awesome new toys!
 
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slodat

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That was the other thing I was going to ask, but I think you just answered my question:

I was wondering why you went with an RPC instead of VFD for the Pacemaker, when you seem to be a VFD guy on every other single-motor tool. The cost of RPCs--American Rotary in particular--are so high these days, and the VFD gives you soft start. I was also wondering how it was even possible that you got the 15 hp spindle started with just a 20 hp RPC. I think both questions are answered by the existence of the spindle clutch: start RPC, start lathe spindle motor unloaded, engage clutch to (relatively) slowly load spindle motor. The clutch takes the place of the VFD's soft start and allows the lathe to operate on a (slightly) undersized RPC.

Am I getting this right?

Out of curiosity, where do you typically find your machinery? I've always seen the west side of the state as a barren wasteland for good deals on old iron, but you seem to have no problem scoring awesome new toys!

Yes, you are getting it right. Well done! Several things going on here.. I paid zero dollars outright for the American Rotary RPC. It was in a trade. I've known the whole time I've had the shop a day may come where I make the substantial investment in a three phase service. The RPC powers up a three phase panel. If I pull in a three phase service, it replaces the RPC on the supply side of that panel and the downstream distribution doesn't change. That's one reason why.. The Pacemaker has a 15hp motor. A 30 or more horsepower vfd is a couple grand for the vfd's I prefer to use. And, there's no value in variable speed on the lathe motor. And, if I want to use the coolant pump, I can run it on the RPC. And.. And.. So.. it all just aligned. I'm really happy with the way the lathe runs on the RPC.

As far as the lathe goes, I only start the motor with the gear box in the lowest gear. There's a lot going on when it winds up the powertrain in higher speeds. When I bought the lathe the guy started it up in a higher speed and it tripped the breaker. His advice was to start the motor in a low speed. That works well for me. I think the reason the lathe motor starts well with the "undersized" RPC is because there's very little load in that lowest gear/speed. The starting peak current on the single phase side is 260 amps or so for maybe 2 seconds. Once the lathe motor is running the generated third phase will start any other three phase load I have tried in the shop. Granted, I haven't tried but a few.

As far as machinery goes.. I have bought the used stuff entirely of craigslist, with the exceptions coming from a friend or similar. The trick I have found is you have to be willing to go when things pop up. Obviously once you're over 1000 pounds or so there's more involved. I haven't had any flakyness or anything when buying bigger, heavier items. Most of the time they are happy to have a buyer.
 

lilscorpion

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Same.. It just didn't pencil out the more time passed. And, even though they have been selling for several years, I knew I would end up a beta tester. I don't have that to give. There's plenty to keep me busy in the shop ;)
I’m with ya totally. Even the hardened product isn’t always easy to use and bug free out of the box and even if they are, they don’t run themselves. I tend to forget that myself sometimes but seem to get quickly reminded.

You have an amazing workflow and amazing capabilities. You can always come back to it later when you have time and others have vetted the product a little. Or you maybe don’t actually need it…
 
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slodat

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Making more circuit breaker test stabs. Really happy with the finish I’m getting on the aluminum in the Pacemaker. Found a good recipe.

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Tolerances on these are measured in fractions. Felt good to hit the 3-5/8. Getting a feel for turning (simple turning) and hitting the dimensions. All were within .002.

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Quickly decided I’d face these on the mill when I go the engraving. It was enough time at the lathe to get really into it. Good stuff!

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The mill would be a lot better if I had chip shield extensions. I’ve thought of a few ideas.. came up with this today. It slips over the top edge of the existing chip shield and has two press-fit nuts on the inside. Now I can screw flat material to them to contain a lot more of the chips.

3d printer again for the win!

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slodat

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These Fogbuster mounts leave a lot to be desired. Always falling, etc.

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James Clough (clough42) did a video some time ago on adapting Loc-Line to the Fogbuster nozzles. I modified his parts so they would bolt up to the mill using existing mounting holes on each side.

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There's a captive nut on the back side of the mount. This allows the clamp to cinch down tight on the Loc-Line.

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So much better.

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The other side.
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This is where a 3d printer really shines. They are just crazy useful in the shop, on the shop.
 
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slodat

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New tooling is always fun. 1.5” 2 flute Shear Hog with YG1 1” set screw holder. Super rigid setup that is great for facing and high material removal rate roughing. One less tool change and over double the MMR!

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Carvesmart jaws for the Kurt DX6 vise. Allows for quick, repeatable jaw changes.

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slodat

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Got the scrap mdf prototype of the mill chip enclosure extension done today. Clips on to the existing (red) chip shield with the 3d printed brackets. Works really well. Quick on and off. Once I've got the kinks worked out, I'll cut the doors and probably the front left and right out of clear acrylic. Next up is to make some chips and see how it does with keeping them contained.

Edit: ran two stabs this evening. The enclosure extension is about as good as I'm going to get on this style machine. Significantly less chips on the floor! The Fogbuster is so much nicer with the loc-line setup.

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The 2 flute 1.25" Shear Hog is amazing! Really cut the cycle time down. Those thick chips sound like coins when they hit.

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slodat

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Finally ran the network cable to the Haas today. Got the Calmotion system working without much trouble. Successfully posted code from Fusion using what I believe is the correct non-NGC post processor. Even loaded that program from the Calmotion to the Haas control. And… that’s where the success ended.

I simply do not understand the Haas control. At all. Yet. I have the original VF manuals that came with the machine, the TM1 supplement, and quick start guide. It operates a lot different than the Centroid control and it doesn’t seem intuitive. Yet.

One challenge is it’s a 2001 machine. There’s not much in the way of YouTube or tutorials. Maybe I don’t know what to search for. I’ll keep at it and get it figured out. It was a nice day in the shop nonetheless.
 

GeddyT

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One challenge is it’s a 2001 machine. There’s not much in the way of YouTube or tutorials. Maybe I don’t know what to search for. I’ll keep at it and get it figured out. It was a nice day in the shop nonetheless.

Same year as mine, same struggle--and with a less common brand, even! I feel your pain.
 
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slodat

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Designed this CAT40 tool rack. Should be handy for setting up tools on the bench, loading, and unloading the carousel.

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Printer didn't want to get the first layer down yesterday. Hit it with a glue stick and seems to be going as good as it usually does now. Over an hour for the first layer, 36 hours to go!

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Started setting up the Orange vises on the Haas. Quickly realized I needed to buy more T-Nuts, and the correct length SHCS. It's crazy how that stuff cost a little over $100. The table travel is 30X x 12Y. So, I could put a third vise on the table and have plenty of lead-in/lead-out room. For now I'll center them. 246 blocks make that easy. I'll indicate them in once I have the hardware to bolt them down.

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GeddyT

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A.) Is that a paid job (the breaker stabs, that is) or just helping out friends at the power plant?

B.) Does the rear chip tray extension affect your Z-axis travel or can you move to full extents without it hitting the spindle housing?

Really nice work!

Edit: Oh yeah, my secret sauce for print bed adhesion is Aquanet hairspray. Works incredibly well.
 
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slodat

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A.) Is that a paid job (the breaker stabs, that is) or just helping out friends at the power plant?
This is a project for a client.
B.) Does the rear chip tray extension affect your Z-axis travel or can you move to full extents without it hitting the spindle housing?
Assuming you are talking about the Tree with the vertical MDF? That mill has a 6” quill and a knee. The Z axis is the quill. I have to take the extensions off for doing work down in/on the vises. The stabs are 6” tall. That’s when I use the extensions.

Really nice work!

Edit: Oh yeah, my secret sauce for print bed adhesion is Aquanet hairspray. Works incredibly well.
Thank you! I’m learning and enjoying my time. Much better than watching tv or sportsball.

I cleaned the textured sheet with IPA like I normally do. I’ve never tried the glue stick. It came with the printer. Worked well today. I know I have a good first layer height for the filament I’m using.
 

GeddyT

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I have the double-sided version of the same cart. Every single auction I've ever shopped has sold off a raft of them, and many go unsold, so they're easy to pick for after the auction closes and get a great deal if you're willing to spend the time removing years of grime. I thought I was brilliant for scoring a cart on the cheap, but the joke's on me, as I now realize that actually filling the cart would cost the same as a new car, so it'll probably remain mostly empty... I wish I had the same cart you got, as it would take up slightly less space and not look so empty.

I find the tray off to the side pretty useful. I haven't bolted it down yet (who has time for that?), but it's where I keep my fixture stand for wrenching on collet nuts and pull studs, as I have a serious lack of clear flat surfaces in the shop.
 
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slodat

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CAT40 rack was on the printer waiting for me when I got to the shop. I knew the first layer was junk, and that it would print. There's something that happens occasionally with the textured sheet that causes the filament to not adhere. Should be good to go now.

This thing is crazy strong. The legs are 0.125" thick, 90% infill on the print. Gonna print one more. A couple of these will be handy. All told about $20 in filament for both. Pretty cool to have the idea and now it's in my hand.

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slodat

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The tooling I bought several months ago is all name brand, high quality stuff. It’s also grimy, sticky with coolant, and just gross. I ordered a 30L ultrasonic cleaner and got to work.

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I saw a YouTube video where a guy put parts in plastic bags, jars, etc and place that in the ultrasonic cleaner. My version is this small tote with a somewhat strong simple green mix.

I heated it up to 70C and ran the ultrasonic for 10 minutes. Water rinse, dry, and spray with LPS.

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Before on some 5C collets:

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After:
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It does a great job and makes short work of cleaning up dried coolant, cutting oil, etc.
 
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slodat

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Picked up the Huot SuperScoot from the freight terminal while I was out working. Got it assembled this evening. It is STOUT! Very happy with it. It is my goal to not outgrow this thing for CAT40 tooling. It holds 90 tools and my other rack holds 57. That should be plenty!

This is for the Haas and tool holders that aren't made up for a machine yet.

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GeddyT

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Man, that must be a big cart, as it looks like it holds a lot more tools than mine! Quick question: Four of the tools have little plates under them in the cart (I've attached a picture with three circled). What are those plates for?

Also, what's the big tapered tool next to your 3D probe? Is that a wiggler?
 

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lilscorpion

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Sweet. The cart has a bolt on tray to the left in the pic. What are the slots intended for? A CAT tooling setup system or other?
 
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