Above 1200 Sq/FT Eastern Washington Workshop
- Thread starter slodat
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
70T, 5', 4+1 axis with the Delem DA53T CNC control.been looking at a PrimaPress too. which model/size did you go with if you don't mind me asking. Also, with the new equipment i think you are overdue for a shop tour?
I haven't thought about a shop tour before.. I could do that. I know absolutely nothing about video editing though.. Hmm..
I saw your video on Instagram yesterday. Was surprised to see no enclosure. Does this require special glasses to protect your eyes_New machine day is always fun.
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Really nice machine. 100 watt MOPA galvo fiber laser.
The fiber marking laser continues to blow my mind. This is 0.015 deep:
I thought the 3.18" diameter shell mill was big.. until the 4" came. This will make the tooling parts a little nicer looking because it will face the part in one pass.
Yesterday was all about making room for the press brake. Moved the Pacemaker to the right as I had planned. It went well. Good rigging equipment makes all the difference.
Press brake goes against the wall.
Things are a little.. snug at the intersection of the router, plasma, and Pacemaker.
No more walkway. There's still access where I'll need it. Probably going to have to move a couple machines into theupholstery bay (insert new name here) at some point..
I thought the 3.18" diameter shell mill was big.. until the 4" came. This will make the tooling parts a little nicer looking because it will face the part in one pass.
Yesterday was all about making room for the press brake. Moved the Pacemaker to the right as I had planned. It went well. Good rigging equipment makes all the difference.
Press brake goes against the wall.
Things are a little.. snug at the intersection of the router, plasma, and Pacemaker.
No more walkway. There's still access where I'll need it. Probably going to have to move a couple machines into the
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Love all of the new toys Steven. As a suggestion, I would make a splash/chip guard for the back of the Pacemaker. When cutting, it will throw schmutz on the router.
Dan - you are right. It absolutely will. Still sorting out a plan.. Not sure what I'm going to do for that.. Sadly, I may just use one of the 5' x 8' sheets of MDF on the wall next to it. Not idea or nice to look at, but it would totally do the job. Time will tell.
Thank you for the suggestion!
Thank you for the suggestion!
macgyver37
Well-known member
I'd suggest a sheet of ACM or Alupanel (lots of different names and companies make it) for the lathe back drop. It is a cheap but nice looking and easy to work with material. Sign shops use it alot, typically 1/8" thick. It is a plastic core skinned with a very thin layer of aluminum and comes in various colors, but white is most common here. Cut with wood tools, I cut a bunch on my cnc router for a sign shop, 1/8 dia O flute makes sweet work of it. You can V groove it for sweet bends etc too if you want to get creative with uses for it.
GeddyT
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Love all of the new toys Steven. As a suggestion, I would make a splash/chip guard for the back of the Pacemaker. When cutting, it will throw schmutz on the router.
HA! I was going to chime in with exactly these two suggestions, but apparently great minds and whatever mine is can think alike!
That's a hell of a shell mill. I have exactly that in 2.5". Looks like a 6-flute as opposed to the 5 of the smaller ones, which is good for speed and finish but a bummer in that inserts seem to sell by tens, so you've got an odd number when it comes time to replace inserts. Still, I wish I could go that big, but magazine size limits tool diameter to just over 3". Both of your mills don't have this problem, so score one for toolroom mills!
Is that .015 laser cut in a single pass?
Other options I have seen for dividers between machines is FRP panels in heavier coolant/oil usage so that washing it down is easy. In places where chips are dry and limited space, I've seen basically hot work area curtains used so when it's cleanup or maintenance time easy to retract and allows greater access but keeps messes constrained
I bought this stomp shear a few years ago off Craigslist.. mostly for cutting perforated metal for making pressed speaker grills. It’s also great for cutting chip board and ABS sheet. I haven’t used it a whole lot and I have other equipment to do the job now. Put it on Craigslist Sunday and a guy came and picked it up today.
The lift continues to make loading and unloading tools and equipment much easier. This worked really well.
Backed his truck right under and we were good to go!
Now the bay is clear and ready for the press brake. Should be here in less than a week.
Got another order for the same stabs I made recently, only 3/8” thick. I got lucky on the thickness.. all I had on hand was 3/8” copper plate. Plenty good enough for these parts.
I used the Metabo burnisher to finish them. I like the brushed finish. Especially helpful because I didn’t have any excess thickness to work with.
The lift continues to make loading and unloading tools and equipment much easier. This worked really well.
Backed his truck right under and we were good to go!
Now the bay is clear and ready for the press brake. Should be here in less than a week.
Got another order for the same stabs I made recently, only 3/8” thick. I got lucky on the thickness.. all I had on hand was 3/8” copper plate. Plenty good enough for these parts.
I used the Metabo burnisher to finish them. I like the brushed finish. Especially helpful because I didn’t have any excess thickness to work with.
Attachments
I ordered a curtain with ceiling track to separate the Pacemaker and the router. I think this will do the job. Thanks for the suggestion, guys!
I think this example photo is exactly what I ordered - ceiling mount track, grey upper and lower, clear middle. I ordered the heaviest material they offered. It didn't add much to the price and I think it will be the best for the occasional hot chip hitting it.
Had a dumb delay on the press brake. Now that is cleared up, it will be here late next week.
I think this example photo is exactly what I ordered - ceiling mount track, grey upper and lower, clear middle. I ordered the heaviest material they offered. It didn't add much to the price and I think it will be the best for the occasional hot chip hitting it.
Had a dumb delay on the press brake. Now that is cleared up, it will be here late next week.
All the field technicians at work use a small Brother label printer. The pick apart foam that comes in Pelican/Storm cases leaves a lot to be desired. I downloaded a model of the interior of the case, brought it into Fusion, did a little design work and split it into layers equal to the thickness of the foam I have on had and went to the router.
Turned out pretty nice. The cable sits under the printer.
Spent a little time with the fiber laser as well. This thing is so cool. Labeled these so I remember where to put them when I'm cleaning up.
Turned out pretty nice. The cable sits under the printer.
Spent a little time with the fiber laser as well. This thing is so cool. Labeled these so I remember where to put them when I'm cleaning up.
wasfast
Well-known member
What did you use for a cutter in the cnc mill? I've not tried cutting foam with a 2 flute EM or similar; only thing that seemed to work well in the past was a meat carving knife with a sawing motion.
I use an Amanda spiral foam cutting bit. There are specialty tools to cut any material that’s able to be cut for the most part. I bought a really nice router bit set with the CNC router. If has been invaluable in having at least a starting point on hand.
GeddyT
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Surprised you didn't cut the foam with one of the lasers!
The foam is 57mm thick. The column of light flares at the bottom on the co2 laser. It’s significant.. the walls are not straight up and down. The fiber’s work envelope is much too small, and it’s not a gantry.. wouldn’t work either way.
The router does a good job of it.
The router does a good job of it.
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Small town living means I have to cook most of my meals. I've grown tired of my usuals. I made my first batch of chicken fried rice today. It turned out great! Next up is Pad Thai!
I've been chipping away at the CNC lathe project the last few evenings. It's close to being ready to power up and start checking things out. Plenty of little details to get dialed in yet. Once it's powered up, it goes pretty quickly on the remaining little stuff. The control board, i/o expansion, ethernet switch and a row of terminal strips are on the control panel rear door. The upper enlosure holds the servo drives, control computer, and front panel.
The lower enclosure houses the AC power conditioning and distribution, spindle VFD, DC power supplies, and a few relays.
It will be nice getting this machine up and running. I have a couple parts I want to run on it.
I've been chipping away at the CNC lathe project the last few evenings. It's close to being ready to power up and start checking things out. Plenty of little details to get dialed in yet. Once it's powered up, it goes pretty quickly on the remaining little stuff. The control board, i/o expansion, ethernet switch and a row of terminal strips are on the control panel rear door. The upper enlosure holds the servo drives, control computer, and front panel.
The lower enclosure houses the AC power conditioning and distribution, spindle VFD, DC power supplies, and a few relays.
It will be nice getting this machine up and running. I have a couple parts I want to run on it.
GeddyT
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I've gone back several pages, but I can't find it and I can't remember: What lathe is going CNC? Is this a retrofit or are you updating/repairing an existing CNC lathe?
Went to my son's middle school open house last night. Couldn't believe how cool their shop was! Aside from your usual wood shop stuff, they had a large CNC CO2 laser and four 3D printers. Where was this stuff when I was a kid!?
Went to my son's middle school open house last night. Couldn't believe how cool their shop was! Aside from your usual wood shop stuff, they had a large CNC CO2 laser and four 3D printers. Where was this stuff when I was a kid!?
Lathe info
I cross post in both threads so the bigger projects have a place to live outside the shop thread, based on requests from others. It's a previously CNC converted Hardinge chucker. I replaced the entire control. It's getting close to initial power up. Plenty left to do though - collet closer, bar puller, limit switches..
That sounds like a great middle school. When I was that age Commodore 64's were all the rage and my rural farm town school had them. I feel like we were pretty lucky to have such a good school back then.
I cross post in both threads so the bigger projects have a place to live outside the shop thread, based on requests from others. It's a previously CNC converted Hardinge chucker. I replaced the entire control. It's getting close to initial power up. Plenty left to do though - collet closer, bar puller, limit switches..
That sounds like a great middle school. When I was that age Commodore 64's were all the rage and my rural farm town school had them. I feel like we were pretty lucky to have such a good school back then.
The details are the most satisfying much of the time. I laminate various chunks of paper in the shop. Rarely a full page. Trimming the excess always leaves me wishing it looked more uniform. I finally ordered a rotary trimmer and corner rounding punch.
The results are so satisfying. This is a reminder of torque values for various collets used in the mill tooling. It's attached to the tooling cart with a magnet. Will outlast me and it doesn't have the goofy square corners anymore.
The results are so satisfying. This is a reminder of torque values for various collets used in the mill tooling. It's attached to the tooling cart with a magnet. Will outlast me and it doesn't have the goofy square corners anymore.
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
Awesome, congrats!
Home Depot had a good price on the ISO 46 hydraulic oil I need for the press brake. I ordered eight pails. One was damaged in shipping. Got the last one yesterday. I am officially ready for its arrival tomorrow.
Was in the shop until unusually late last night working on the CNC lathe. It's up and running. A few stragglers, but it is mostly together. Before I tested the spindle, I checked to see if it was free to rotate, and it wasn't. There's a spindle lock, and it was engaged. Shown disengaged here:
It doesn't have anything holding it out and I want to ensure it doesn't accidentally get engaged. Printed this guy:
It worked out really well. I've watched a few videos over the years of a lathe running with an unsupported bar sticking out the headstock going absolutely crazy. Printed a simple spindle liner for the 1" bar I'm currently working with.
I printed one for 1/2" as well. I buy bar stock in these 3' lengths. I think the 7" liner is long enough.
Had a busy day for the 3d printer. These 4" toggle bolts were a touch too long for a 4" bin. Printed a 4.25 and save a little drawer space.
Was in the shop until unusually late last night working on the CNC lathe. It's up and running. A few stragglers, but it is mostly together. Before I tested the spindle, I checked to see if it was free to rotate, and it wasn't. There's a spindle lock, and it was engaged. Shown disengaged here:
It doesn't have anything holding it out and I want to ensure it doesn't accidentally get engaged. Printed this guy:
It worked out really well. I've watched a few videos over the years of a lathe running with an unsupported bar sticking out the headstock going absolutely crazy. Printed a simple spindle liner for the 1" bar I'm currently working with.
I printed one for 1/2" as well. I buy bar stock in these 3' lengths. I think the 7" liner is long enough.
Had a busy day for the 3d printer. These 4" toggle bolts were a touch too long for a 4" bin. Printed a 4.25 and save a little drawer space.
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Almost done with wiring on the lathe. Waiting on some stuff to arrive to finish the encoder wiring and I'll be done.
Lower cabinet:
There are a few spots that could use a blanking plate. 3d printed this one. Worked out well.
It looks like originally there was a cover for the axis ball screw. It's long gone.
Cut this out of 12ga mild steel. It's way over kill, but the sheet was on the plasma. Worked well.
Close to be wrapped up.
I have a lot of learning to do before I'll be doing anything meaningful with the lathe. I ordered a few tools. I have a lot of tool holders I bought a while back. Need to get a small assortment of tools and sort out using the conversational programming to make a part. The encoder will allow for threading.
Lower cabinet:
There are a few spots that could use a blanking plate. 3d printed this one. Worked out well.
It looks like originally there was a cover for the axis ball screw. It's long gone.
Cut this out of 12ga mild steel. It's way over kill, but the sheet was on the plasma. Worked well.
Close to be wrapped up.
I have a lot of learning to do before I'll be doing anything meaningful with the lathe. I ordered a few tools. I have a lot of tool holders I bought a while back. Need to get a small assortment of tools and sort out using the conversational programming to make a part. The encoder will allow for threading.
Installed the cylinder covers, filled with 40 gallons of hydraulic fluid.. 5 gallons at a time, connected to power, it homed correctly! Still need to set in on the ground and set in its final location. It’s close now. Dealer is coming out to startup the machine, check everything out, commission the machine, and do some training.
ptt49er
Well-known member
Beautiful machine! Congrats!
Not sure how big your sheet metal will be, but the shops I've worked in have always covered the front with piece of sheet metal (generally stainless due to our industry) to protect the painted (red on your new toyl) from the sheet metal edges when forming parts that are a bit too long.
Not sure how big your sheet metal will be, but the shops I've worked in have always covered the front with piece of sheet metal (generally stainless due to our industry) to protect the painted (red on your new toyl) from the sheet metal edges when forming parts that are a bit too long.
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Damn that is a sweet machine!
Jealous!
Jealous!
Set the Hardinge on the ground for the first time ever. It had been on dunnage so I could easily get the pallet jack under to move when needed. I bought these 5/8 cushioned swivel base mounts and some big beefy tooling nuts from MSC.
This worked out really well once they were snugged up. A few details left and the lathe is done - spindle encoder wiring and some new pneumatic components for the drawbar.
Moved the press brake into its final position. The toe jack and machinery skates make this an easy one man job.
Seller is coming this weekend for startup and some training. I need it!
This worked out really well once they were snugged up. A few details left and the lathe is done - spindle encoder wiring and some new pneumatic components for the drawbar.
Moved the press brake into its final position. The toe jack and machinery skates make this an easy one man job.
Seller is coming this weekend for startup and some training. I need it!
Made some bending coupons out of a few thicknesses of scrap in preparation for Gary's arrival tomorrow. Engraved the thickness with the fiber laser..
The control has a PC version of the software that can be used to create bend programs and transferred back to the control. There are a LOT of options and details, and it looks like a great system. Excited to get some training tomorrow.
Took the USB stick to the brake, loaded the program I made on the PC, selected AUTO.. the back gauge snapped into position, pressed the footpedal and it made the first bend. Selected the second bend, back gauge snapped into position and I made the second bend.
This thing is AMAZING!!
The control has a PC version of the software that can be used to create bend programs and transferred back to the control. There are a LOT of options and details, and it looks like a great system. Excited to get some training tomorrow.
Took the USB stick to the brake, loaded the program I made on the PC, selected AUTO.. the back gauge snapped into position, pressed the footpedal and it made the first bend. Selected the second bend, back gauge snapped into position and I made the second bend.
This thing is AMAZING!!
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Got the press brake dialed in and the basics started with Gary today. It's an awesome machine! Lots and lots of test bends.
Turns out the way to stay out of trouble is to always under bend and sneak up on 90°. The CNC control is really nice. Once a given material is bending as it should, then it's straight forward.. as long as you program everything correctly. 70T is no joke! The outcome in various thicknesses 16ga - 1/4".
The plasma table cut some really nice 12ga parts. Zero cleanup or dross. I need to increase my lead in a touch and these would be perfect, at least to me!
I need to look into ordering a die for one of the parts I'm making and work on closing the gap between CAD in Fusion and what the brake puts out. This can be solved with some test bends.
Turns out the way to stay out of trouble is to always under bend and sneak up on 90°. The CNC control is really nice. Once a given material is bending as it should, then it's straight forward.. as long as you program everything correctly. 70T is no joke! The outcome in various thicknesses 16ga - 1/4".
The plasma table cut some really nice 12ga parts. Zero cleanup or dross. I need to increase my lead in a touch and these would be perfect, at least to me!
I need to look into ordering a die for one of the parts I'm making and work on closing the gap between CAD in Fusion and what the brake puts out. This can be solved with some test bends.
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Can you run in manual mode? Reaso I ask is you can always counter bend an over bent oart if you just barely over shoot it and save the part…if you care. Doesn’t work great in the thin stuff but 3/16” and thicker it works sweet.
Absolutely! Manual mode is awesome. You have control over everything in one screen. Works well! The thing with over bending is you are essentially starting to crash the machine, from how I understand it.
In this video first I check that I’m zeroed on the top of the material correctly, then bend 135, check it, apply correction, then 90. I stitched 3 short videos together.