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Electric Lift Table Project

Firebrick43

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Maybe a good motor should be put on. By the time you get a capacitor and find a cover you can have an operational lift.
Also a drip proof motor that is currently installed should never be mounted vertically.

I have found ebay to be an excellent source of fractional motors. You need a 1725 rpm 115v motor with 56c mount.

This motor is 85 dollars and is TENV (Totally Enclosed Not Ventilated) so **** cant fall in it like the one currently installed.

It has a 5/8 keyed shaft which is the standard and the 56c face mount.

56C 1/3 hp ebay motor
 
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Pinemarten

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Here is a similar Dayton motor on Grainger's site:

Notice the clear view of the data plate. The information off your motor's data plate should allow the Customer Service people to help you match up your motor to the proper start capacitor. Grainger lists 49 or 50 different 120V start capacitors for Dayton Motors.

There might be a list of superseded /matching part numbers. Let the pros help you.
 
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D45

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Maybe a good motor should be put on. By the time you get a capacitor and find a cover you can have an operational lift.
Also a drip proof motor that is currently installed should never be mounted vertically.

I have found ebay to be an excellent source of fractional motors. You need a 1725 rpm 115v motor with 56c mount.

This motor is 85 dollars and is TENV (Totally Enclosed Not Ventilated) so **** cant fall in it like the one currently installed.

It has a 5/8 keyed shaft which is the standard and the 56c face mount.

56C 1/3 hp ebay motor

Thanks, wasn't aware that the motor orientation mattered

That motor is also $130 just for shipping

56C mount is for vertical mounting?
 

Jagmandave

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I have Leeson and Baldour factory sales shops in my area, maybe check yours? I could walk in and buy either of those motors right off the shelf.......no shipping.
 
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D45

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If the motor isnt in constant operation and its just used to raise and lower the platform, there's no concern for liquids falling into the open hot motor case
 

Firebrick43

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Thanks, wasn't aware that the motor orientation mattered

That motor is also $130 just for shipping

56C mount is for vertical mounting?
Really, its says 25 dollars shipping for me and I am less than 1.5 hours away?

56C is face mounting which is what you have.
If the motor isnt in constant operation and its just used to raise and lower the platform, there's no concern for liquids falling into the open hot motor case

Your motor is drip proof (slots in the back and front plate) but its designed for horizontal installation so stuff doesnt fall in them. Its just not liquids but nuts, screws, dirt, debris and so forth. And just because its not operation it doesn't mean it wont cause issues.

Your application you would want a TENV (Totally Enclosed Not Ventilated) or a TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled. You have such a short cyle time that cooling is not material.
 
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D45

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Not too bad..... I'm all about using preexisting parts and fixing them to make them function
 
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D45

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Grainger stated:
161-193 MFD
2MDR4

They did not have a part number for the capacitor cover though

I'll fab up my own cover I guess

Capacitor ordered for $12 shipped
 
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D45

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Next question.....how do I know what wire goes to what terminal on the capacitor?
 

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Aileron

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If you have grainger numbers , check Zoro, as they are Grainger and usually less expensive. Check for a electrical motor rebuilder in your area , they may even have a scrap cover.
 
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D45

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Capacitor arrived ......ordered from Zoro
 

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D45

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Capacitor installed and the motor fires up, no issues!!

Now, I need to work on the wiring and find a cover for the Furnas drum switch or a new Forward / Reverse / Stop switch
 
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D45

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Another issue I need to figure out is the belt and two pulleys

The belt that was on was a 3 ribbed flat belt

The pulley on the motor is a 2-1/4" Congress Drive pulley with a V groove

To me, the belt should NOT be flat but rather a V shape to sit down in the pulley valley and grip

I need to check the pulley design on the threaded shaft to raise/lower the platform
 
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D45

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I'm going to use some compressed air and blow out the internals
 

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Firebrick43

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Another issue I need to figure out is the belt and two pulleys

The belt that was on was a 3 ribbed flat belt

The pulley on the motor is a 2-1/4" Congress Drive pulley with a V groove

To me, the belt should NOT be flat but rather a V shape to sit down in the pulley valley and grip

I need to check the pulley design on the threaded shaft to raise/lower the platform
A poly Vee belt can transmit more power than a v belt.
 
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D45

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Either which way it needs to be a V belt not a flat belt

I checked the other pulley and it'd a V pulley also

The PO was running a flat belt instead of a V belt

I bet it was slipping so much
 
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D45

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Grommet installed around the hole for the capacitor wires
 

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D45

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Used compressed air to blow out the inside of the motor

Took off the wiring harness to clean and degrease the motor

Going to order a 15' length of 12/3 wire cord, then figure out what to do with the switch

I also found 4 mounting bolts in the garage to use, since it originally came with 2 odd ball bolts and a stack of washers

Getting close!!
 

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D45

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12/3 replacement cord in 12G

I order a 15' length but might trim it back to around 12', maybe......
 

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D45

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I started fabbing up a wiring plate cover, since it was also missing

Pretty simple project. Just need to paint it and add a thin dab of silicon around the edges to seal it up
 

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D45

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I found a used cover off a GE motor for $20

The specs and measurements look darn close

It will be here next week
 
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D45

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Cover made

22G steel flat stock

Painted it, just because
 

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D45

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Between the motor and the switch mounted up high, should I run flexible BX or conduit for the wiring?

Should be less than 4 feet
 
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D45

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I think flexible BX will be a better option after looking at some angles and wire routing
 

Firebrick43

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Between the motor and the switch mounted up high, should I run flexible BX or conduit for the wiring?

Should be less than 4 feet
BX had no ground wire and hasn’t been used for decades. I think you mean MC cable. You still shouldn’t use that either though.

You should use a flexible conduit such as sealtite and pull appropriately rated and sized stranded cable including a ground conductor.
 
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D45

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What about the flexible metal conduit? I thought that was called BX

That's widely sold

Then I call pull four 14G wires through it
 

Firebrick43

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What about the flexible metal conduit? I thought that was called BX

That's widely sold

Then I call pull four 14G wires through it
Flexible metal conduit is called flexible metal conduit or FMC. A popular trade name for FMC is greenfield.

Sealtight is a trade name of a Liquid-tight Flexible Metal Conduit or LFMC and I would recommend that.

BX had a hot and neutral pre installed (always) and the outside sheath acted as the ground and many times caused issues. It hasn’t been legal for decades.
ar136432120996061.jpg

The current product similar to BX with wire pre installed including a separate ground is called MC or Metal Clad.
 
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D45

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I need 4 wires, do they sell that MC in 14G or 12G?

Or can I buy the flexible metal outer jacket and pull my own wires through it?
 
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