Enclosed car trailer winch install ideas wanted

[alien]

I recently purchased a 20 foot long, enclosed car trailer to help me moving from Massachusetts to Florida. I have three vehicles that I need to transport with this trailer one at a time. I would like to mount the winch to one of those receiver cradles, so it could be removed when not needed and used on the back of my truck.

The trailer has the typical three-quarter inch plywood floor and the tongue consists of 2“ x 6“ boxed framing members. I would like to do as little damage to the flooring as possible. I am open to any suggestions.

I do have a mig welder and I am able to weld to those framing members. I am not the greatest welder, but my welds have never broken and I have a grinder. I am concerned if I only attached to the center framing member that there will be twisting. I have no problem installing a metal plate on top of the floor with a couple of penetrations that could bolt or weld to the framing members?

 

[cherokee]

I can't really help you in the removeable part, but I used a cheapo HF winch in my race trailer every weekend. Just had one of those white plugs (don't remember what they are) on the back of the motorhome to put power to the winch. Hauled my car in a million times. I finally unbolted it and bolted it to the floor in my shop to help "push" things that don't run in there. Why I did not do it when I had to stop racing no idea.

I will be watching this thread to get ideas, I have a hope to do open road racing in the future.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

On my flat deck trailer I mounted a Step Bumper receiver hitch(obviously upside down) welded to the frame.
Then mounted my HF 9000# winch onto a receiver cradle. This makes it usable on my trailer and on my truck.

Purchased long length of large gauge wire and placed ring terminals on winch end & clamps on the other. Run from winch to truck battery so I have no Permanent wiring installed to go bad and it is usable in all configurations.

 

[unslow1]

This how I installed mine.

 

[ez-duzit]

...I am able to weld to those framing members...

Entirely unnecessary and undesirable.

You could anchor a removable winch platform, inside, by using U-bolts around the drawbar.

 

[Drunkonunleaded]

I can't really help you in the removeable part, but I used a cheapo HF winch in my race trailer every weekend. Just had one of those white plugs (don't remember what they are) on the back of the motorhome to put power to the winch. Hauled my car in a million times. I finally unbolted it and bolted it to the floor in my shop to help "push" things that don't run in there. Why I did not do it when I had to stop racing no idea.

I will be watching this thread to get ideas, I have a hope to do open road racing in the future.

No pictures because the trailer is long-gone, but I had a similar setup in a trailer that I purchased from a friend. We put a HF ATV winch and mounted it through the floor with a thick steel backing plate. Used a JNC660 jump box that we kept to run the car to pull the car on the trailer.

Later, I installed a 12v marine battery and put both it and the winch in floor boxes to free up space in the trailer. These are the best I've found. I'd HIGHLY recommend this setup over what OP is trying to make work.

 

[housewolf]

I have a buddy that has a V-Nose like yours and he mounted it outside. He needs every inch of floor space he has.

I did this on a trailer I had years ago. Eventually when I finished the inside, the winch was in the left hand cabinet.

 

[alien]

This how I installed mine.

What is it bolted to?

 

[alien]

No pictures because the trailer is long-gone, but I had a similar setup in a trailer that I purchased from a friend. We put a HF ATV winch and mounted it through the floor with a thick steel backing plate. Used a JNC660 jump box that we kept to run the car to pull the car on the trailer.

Later, I installed a 12v marine battery and put both it and the winch in floor boxes to free up space in the trailer. These are the best I've found. I'd HIGHLY recommend this setup over what OP is trying to make work.

I was looking at that set up and liked it. I can not use that as there is not enough room between the 3 framing members to fit it. I would prefer it centered as opposed to off to one side. There will only be a couple of inches between the tires and wheel wells on my widest vehicle and not much better on the other 2.

 

[alien]

Entirely unnecessary and undesirable.

You could anchor a removable winch platform, inside, by using U-bolts around the drawbar.

I am 61 disabled and end up doing 99% of everything by myself. One of the reasons I wanted to weld (a couple of angle iron pieces to the middle framing member) is so I can remove the winch when not in use and so I can bolt it in without having to crawl under the trailer. I could just tack the angle iron in a couple of places so it doesn't weaken the frame but will hold it in place?

 

[kbeefy]

If theres air in the tires and a decent ramp/trailer transition it doesn't take much to pull a car.
I agree with ubolting it thru the floor.

 

[unslow1]

What is it bolted to?

Two through the frame and two through the wood. I had a plate installed when it was built but it didn't line up. To use it I would need to put the cable through the cabinet. It's lined up to run through the open cabinet door. The winch and mounts are Harbor Freight.

 

[NUTTSGT]

That's 6 trips up or down the coast...gas, food, lodging adds up.

Have you priced someone with a 3 car wedge trailer to make a single one way trip

If you still want to haul them, if they run, just this one, I would drive them in the trailer. Climb out the window.

 

[P51Mustang]

As kbeefy said, it does not take that much to pull a car into a trailer if the tires have air. When I brought my enclosed trailer a number of years ago it had a 1800lb ATV winch in it and it pulled my Mustang race car in with no issues (I did end up putting a different winch in after about 4 years but not because the 1800lb winch would not pull the car). You could most likely make up a steel mounting plate that is bolted thru the plywood with some large load speading plates on the underside of the floor. Have the mounting bolts of the plate wider than the winch and then have the winch bolt pattern drilled into the plate with nuts welded on the bottom of the plates (drill some clearance holes in the floor for the nuts). That way the winch can be unbolted from the floor when needed. A couple of plate mounting bolt holes could be drilled and tapped into the top of the center frame rails for insurance if wanted (have 6 mounting bolts on the plate).

 

[OCD]

Not an enclosed, but here is how I installed a winch...

 

[alien]

That's 6 trips up or down the coast...gas, food, lodging adds up.

Have you priced someone with a 3 car wedge trailer to make a single one way trip

If you still want to haul them, if they run, just this one, I would drive them in the trailer. Climb out the window.

2 of my vehicles are 1972 Chevrolet Blazers. One is a rust-free California 4 X 4 manual transmission and the other one is a two-wheel drive (rare they made less than 4000 and this one is a factory AC Blazer) LS3/4L70 QA1 suspension with 14" Wilwood brakes. The two-wheel drive is a full time convertible. I have had enough vehicles transported over the years I do not trust hiring out these 2 vehicles. Enclosed shipping from CA was $3400 2 years ago for one vehicle. I also have some other things I wouldn't trust being shipped.

All the trailers are 8.5' wide on the outside, just over 8' inside. There is no way I am climbing out the window LOL. I can climb out the tailgate (one convertible and the 4 X 4 is a soft top). I just think there will be more control with a winch. I also plan on using the winch to help load my 1500 pound safe.

Gas will be an expense I figure $4500 for all 6 trips. I will take a nap in the truck when tired and I rarely eat when traveling.

 

[alien]

Not an enclosed, but here is how I installed a winch...

I had wanted to do similar but with the V nose there is about 3" of structural framing at the front. These trailers are made cheaply enough I don't want to make matters worse than they already are. I am going to draw something up in a day or two and see what you guys think? Being enclosed I would need to seal the opening very well and am not sure how well that would work.

 

[alien]

Some pictures of the 2-wheel drive Blazer. Not finished yet. I am hoping to have it done and be my last trip. I haven't even found the right house yet.







And the other one...

 

[P51Mustang]

Nice Blazers! I like the true big SUV's (back when SUV's were something). I have several big Broncos to go with my Mustangs. The Blazers could be a tight fit between the fenders on the trailer. Be sure to measure.

 

[alien]

I measured before I ordered the trailer.

The 4X4 will have about 3" to the wheel wells on each side, the 2-wheel drive will only havel 2" to the wheel wells. That will leave about 9 inches on each side of the blazer to the walls. No way I'm opening those doors once it is in. Which is why the whole windchair is being worked on.

The enclosed car carriers are no wider than that trailer. There wasn't much space when the bronze one came from California..

 

[ez-duzit]

I am 61 disabled and end up doing 99% of everything by myself. One of the reasons I wanted to weld (a couple of angle iron pieces to the middle framing member) is so I can remove the winch when not in use and so I can bolt it in without having to crawl under the trailer. I could just tack the angle iron in a couple of places so it doesn't weaken the frame but will hold it in place?

Forget about welding on the frame. Bolt everything on. You can design it so the winch comes off easily if necessary.

BTW--I am 79 and somewhat handicapped from fractured pelvis and hardware in ankle. Still working as a boat builder.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Yeah, I probably wouldn't trust those vehicles in someone else's care.

Are you wanting to mount the winch inside the trailer or on the tongue outside ?

I've seen a few mounted off to the side (inside the trailer) and run the cable through a mounted pulley.

 

[kwb]

Just put a chain/strap anchored to the forward most slot in the E-track. Hook the winch in the middle and pull.

If I saw wrong trailer and attributed to the OP - you can do the same with the forward most D-rings that are in most trailers I have seen.

 

[P51Mustang]

I use my enclosed trailer for hauling a wide road racing Mustang (I have around 2 1/2" clearance on each side to the fenders). The front of the trailer is set up with a tool box on one side and a tire rack with a custom built parts storage unit on the other side. The middle was left open to haul a golf cart. The car goes in behind all of this. The winch is bolted to a steel plate that is under the floor as far to the front of the trailer as possible. Because of the width of the storage unit, I had to mount the winch a few inches off the trailer centerline. The winch cable has to run under the golf cart to get to the car. To make sure the cable has a straight pull to the car and to keep it away from the under side of the cart I mounted a small roller fairlead just under the tail end of the golf cart. It has worked great. If you found that with the V-Nose in the trailer that you needed to mount the winch a bit offset you could use a roller fairlead or a pulley as Nuttsgt talks about.

Between the width of the race car and my knees, I fully understand about not being able to do the gymnastics to climb in and out of the car/truck in the trailer. I have been winching the car in and out of the trailer for many years.

 

[unslow1]

Yeah, I probably wouldn't trust those vehicles in someone else's care.

Are you wanting to mount the winch inside the trailer or on the tongue outside ?

I've seen a few mounted off to the side (inside the trailer) and run the cable through a mounted pulley.

A friend of mine set his up that way (90*) to clear his really long cars. I've also seen them set up in a tongue toolbox and the cable run inside.

 

[P51Mustang]

Be sure to get a wireless remote for the winch. They are a great thing!

 

[gregs]

Where at in Florida are you moving to?

 

[alien]

Where at in Florida are you moving to?

Looking in the Inverness and Lecanto, Florida areas.

 

[gregs]

Thats a nice area. Have friends in Crystal River and I am up in the Gainesville area.

 

[alien]

Thats a nice area. Have friends in Crystal River and I am up in the Gainesville area.

I haven’t bought anything yet, but that’s the area I’m looking in. I have a lifelong friend that lives nearby. I have quite a few things that are must haves, and it is making it difficult to find what I want.

3+ bedrooms
2+ baths
3+garage spaces (and or a shop, 4 total garage spots would be ideal).
privacy (would like 2+ acres).
I really want natural gas. I’m finding that is a rarity in that area. Don’t really want to go the propane route as I’ve heard too many horror stories of people dealing with the propane companies over the years. One of the big reasons I want natural gas is for a whole house generator. I can run the majority of my house up here in Massachusetts on a 2000 W generator and have done so over a week long power outage. With all electric heat and well pumps you would need a pretty good sized whole house generator and an awful Lot of gasoline to feed it when needed.

If I found the perfect house that checked all my boxes, except for the natural gas, I would make a concession. There’s one house I am looking at that has a three car, garage, three bedrooms, two baths, a saltwater pool, and natural gas. Insta hot gas water heater. It sits on a 1 acre lot, but it does seem to have lots of privacy due to the landscaping. It’s also built more like a New England style house as opposed to the typical Florida house. My issue is it’s in an HOA and I need to get approval from an architectural review board to build an additional shop or do any other changes to the property. I’m really against living in HOA but it does have almost everything I want.

 

[gregs]

I agree its tough to find everything you want in one spot. I think the natural gas is going to be hit or miss. As for the generator, if you need that for storm related survival then just bite the bullet and have a whole house standby generator installed and a LP tank to handle it. I personally would not want to be in any neighborhood that has an HOA, but thats just me. I have lived here all my life and just have a couple of portable generators I use for extended power outages. Dont take this the wrong way, but for the amount of non Floridians moving here I would want as much space as I could get as its getting thick down here.

 

[69CHARGERMD]

I like my in floor winch box. Was easy to install. No tripping over cables. Didn’t have to install it inside the cabinets.

 

[alien]

I like my in floor winch box. Was easy to install. No tripping over cables. Didn’t have to install it inside the cabinets.

Someone posted a link to those boxes earlier in this discussion. I like the idea but it’s not possible on my trailer. There are three framing members coming from the tongue. One of those is in the center, which is where I would want the winch. Even so there’s not enough room on the left or the right of that center framing member to fit that box.

 

[Jeffncs]

No pictures because the trailer is long-gone, but I had a similar setup in a trailer that I purchased from a friend. We put a HF ATV winch and mounted it through the floor with a thick steel backing plate. Used a JNC660 jump box that we kept to run the car to pull the car on the trailer.

Later, I installed a 12v marine battery and put both it and the winch in floor boxes to free up space in the trailer. These are the best I've found. I'd HIGHLY recommend this setup over what OP is trying to make work.

The prices for their complete kits are excellent!!

 

[Juiced06GTO]

I spanned the framing members with two pieces of uni strut under the trailer then ran threaded rod up through the floor and mounted the winch to that. Pulls my 3800lb 06gto in no problem.

On another note, I am in Mass and would buy one of those Blazers off you to save you a trip with it . Also, can offer some help with getting the winch set up if you are local.

Good luck with the move!

 

[alien]

I spanned the framing members with two pieces of uni strut under the trailer then ran threaded rod up through the floor and mounted the winch to that. Pulls my 3800lb 06gto in no problem.

On another note, I am in Mass and would buy one of those Blazers off you to save you a trip with it . Also, can offer some help with getting the winch set up if you are local.

Good luck with the move!

If you’re serious about buying one of the blazers, I recently considered selling the bronze 4 x 4 rust free blazer. Message me if you’re interested in discussing it the price would be $70,000 firm. I have done a lot to it and it’s reliable but not perfect. Even though the body is Russ tree, the paint has some chips and it was not a great paint drop when they originally painted it there’s not many rust free original rocker, original door, Original floor, original, tailgate blazers left.

 

[Juiced06GTO]

It is beautiful, but at 70k, about 70K outside of what I could spend and still be married at this point (I'm three cars in and no where left to put them at this point..)

I was serious about helping if you need it though. I'm in central Mass and could lend a hand if ya need it.

 

[CraigStu]

Do you have any idea how the front wall at the point is constructed? I am thinking if feasible, maybe a 1.5-2 inch diameter aluminum tube 6 inches long. Have someone weld a flange midway that is bent to match the point in the wall. Mount that, sealing the flange well, mount the winch on a cross piece bolted to the three frame tubes. The cable can pass through the tube. While towing you can jam some closed cell foam in the tube to keep rain out. When not in use cap it. This would be a fancy, kind of expensive cap.

Aluminum Weld-In Assemblies at The Chassis Shop

secure.chassisshop.com

I am sure you could find something for less $. Probably best to figure out the cap before deciding on tube diameter. My thinking is that the more difficult fab work would all be done on a bench. Then hopefully a hole saw through the wall, and 4 screws or nut/bolts, and good sealer.

 

[alien]

This is what I have come up with.







and this is what I did under the floor.





I will eventually weld the nuts to the bottom plate under the trailer. That way I can install the top plate and remove it without ever having to get back under the trailer.

 

[P51Mustang]

Should do the job.