Everything Fiberglass Thread

[ez-duzit]

This is how we learn.

 

[RivennHewn]

This is how we learn.

Love it!

I said at the beginning that I wasn’t a glass guy

 

[RivennHewn]

Purchased motivation.

 

[RivennHewn]

So my little epoxy F-up was no small task to fix.

7 hrs of sanding to remove all the stipple and roller lines.

I probably removed 60% of the primer.

But, I’m back to a smooth surface, and once again looking like it just popped outta the mold!

Thinking I’ll be spraying next time. What could possibly go wrong with that?

I will say that finding a box of these pads in my misc sanding box was fortunate.
They were perfect for the contours, and removed material faster than anything else I tried.

 

[WoodsTruck]

After spraying some 2 part epoxy with a Harbor Freight purple gun I would go that route if it were me. Drill the tip out slightly, don't remember the size off hand, and maybe use a tad of reducer to thin it out so it would lay flat and get it done.

 

[RivennHewn]

Decided to play with the epoxy primer some more.
Adjusted the mix, and some experimenting with rollers.

They very bottom isn’t as important to get perfect, so masked off the side and got the bottom recoated.

I can see a few areas that’ll get sanded out again, but looks much better this time.

Still trying to decide how best for me to get the sides done to a higher standard

 

[ez-duzit]

...Still trying to decide how best for me to get the sides done to a higher standard

One guy rolling; another guy tipping with brush.

 

[RivennHewn]

One guy rolling; another guy tipping with brush.

Being a small boat I was able to tip the small contours and roll, both while maintaining a wet edge.

The brush work does lay down flatter than the roller. 1/4” nap is still bigger than I want.

 

[ez-duzit]

Use a foam roller.

 

[RivennHewn]

Use a foam roller.

EZ,

Any recommendations?

All the foam ones I’ve used(Boat supply shop) have fallen apart within minutes.
Wasting expensive epoxy. Completely frustrating.

 

[ez-duzit]

I have had most excellent service from the yellow ones sold at West Marine for use with epoxy.

You can't **** around. Git-er-done and toss the roller at the first sign of deterioration.

Like I said: "One guy rolling and the other tipping."

 

[RivennHewn]

Like I said: "One guy rolling and the other tipping."

Hard to do in a one man shop

But I got it done. Finally.

Let it cure, block it one more time, and it’ll be time for paint.

 

[MushCreek]

I'm toying with the idea of building a step-side bed for my '72 F-250 out of fiberglass. I have a steel bed that's really pretty rough, and they don't make reproduction 8' bed sides. First, I'm going to talk to some sheet metal shops around here to see what it would cost to have the various parts made out of metal. Years ago, I built a short bed for a '70 I had. A sheet metal guy bent the parts for me much cheaper than the repro stuff.

The problem I'll have with fiberglass is that a bed is visible inside and out, so there will be a lot of sanding/filling/smoothing to make it look good. The plus side would be no rust! I could even build a form, and make a one-piece bed.

 

[ez-duzit]

I'm toying with the idea of building a step-side bed for my '72 F-250 out of fiberglass...

The cost and labor will far outweigh any advantage you might realize over simply installing a used bed from a junkyard.

 

[RivennHewn]

I’m agreeing with EZ on this.

Way more cost effective to buy a used bed, or a donor truck.

 

[MushCreek]

Have you ever tried to find an 8' stepside bed? Especially a 50 y/o one in usable condition? I have one, but it's got a lot of holes in it. I'm not sure how to repair something that you can see from both sides.

 

[ez-duzit]

Have you ever tried to find an 8' stepside bed?...

"It's too hard"

Oh come on! Surely they built 10's of thousands of these.

 

[RivennHewn]

Finding a suitable stepside bed will be no easy task.

Building one out of fiberglass wouldn’t be in the realm of things I’d consider trying.

 

[RivennHewn]

The lovely ladies

 

[ez-duzit]

So the primer is done?

 

[RivennHewn]

Primer is done.

Just need final decision on color. (The scary part)

 

[RivennHewn]

Been a few months of taking up space in the shop under some moving blankets.

Time to get some color on this old boat!

Picked out a combination of Oyster White and Deep Red for the accent.

Just need the temperature to tick up a bit more!

 

[racer-john]

How bad are the Stepside ledges?

 

[PugetDude]

Yacht Enamel... that dinghy is getting more upscale by the minute. You going to wear your Ted Knight captains hat while painting it?

 

[RivennHewn]

How bad are the Stepside ledges?

Everything is ship-shape at this point!

 

[RivennHewn]

Yacht Enamel... that dinghy is getting more upscale by the minute. You going to wear your Ted Knight captains hat while painting it?

Rodney Dangerfield’s pants seem to fit my personality a bit better

 

[Monza Harry]

Rodney Dangerfield’s pants seem to fit my personality a bit better

Now you're NOT going to Get Any Respect! LOL! Harry Thanx for the Chuckle!

 

[sjvicker]

I hope this is the correct spot to post this. I'm completely new to working with fiberglass and am working on a fiberglass front clip for my Toyota Pickup.

This truck is meant to be a wheeler/overlander and the whole thing is going to be coated in Raptor Liner. I'm not going for perfect so this is a good project to learn on.

The mini fenders are about 1/4" off from lining up with the front clip. How do I build these up so they match? I also had to hack away quite a bit to fit the cage tube through it. At this point I'm thinking my best bet is to fill in the latch recess and surface mount the latch.

Any tips or instruction on how to proceed from here would be much appreciated. I'm definitely new so a resin recommendation would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Spencer

 

[ez-duzit]

s--you could apply mold release to all the mating surfaces and then use 2-part or spray foam to create a substrate from which to shape a male mold, cutting the foam in two for removal. After shaping the male mold, you would then create a female mold in which to build the fiberglass part.

 

[Bodj Built]

I hope this is the correct spot to post this. I'm completely new to working with fiberglass and am working on a fiberglass front clip for my Toyota Pickup.

This truck is meant to be a wheeler/overlander and the whole thing is going to be coated in Raptor Liner. I'm not going for perfect so this is a good project to learn on.

The mini fenders are about 1/4" off from lining up with the front clip. How do I build these up so they match? I also had to hack away quite a bit to fit the cage tube through it. At this point I'm thinking my best bet is to fill in the latch recess and surface mount the latch.

Any tips or instruction on how to proceed from here would be much appreciated. I'm definitely new so a resin recommendation would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Spencer

Unfortunately, offroad fiberglass *****. Especially Fiberwerx.

 

[sjvicker]

You sure know your fiberglass. This is a fiberwerx front clip. I was told it would be bad before purchasing but I never expected the mini fenders to be 1/4" off!

I guess you get what you pay for. I just ordered a set of their rear fenders but those seem lower risk

Sent from my SM-T560NU using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[RivennHewn]

Kind of a double post here, as I mistakenly posted this in my other thread.

Bottom paint is complete!

With the weather warming up, time to get this one checked off the list.

The little Johnson that will hang off the back is in the repair shop getting a new lower seal.

With 4 boat projects going, I didn’t want to take the time to figure it out.

 

[ez-duzit]

R--looks good from here.

 

[RivennHewn]

R--looks good from here.

Thanks EZ.

I need to start polishing up the aluminum trim that holds the rubber rub strip.
Polishing is not my strong suit. Going have to read up on it!

 

[ez-duzit]

If it is badly oxidized, scratched and/or pitted, just try some brown Scotchbrite pads.

 

[RivennHewn]

If it is badly oxidized, scratched and/or pitted, just try some brown Scotchbrite pads.

Thanks again,

They ain’t pretty.

 

[andyvh1959]

I plan to modify the Kohler Tercet corner tub in my main bathroom to make it a low step in tub. I installed the tub a few years back and used a glass door set from Dreamline to mimic an expensive european style combo tub/shower unit (shown below). It actually works very well as a shower though it looks like its too open to contain splash and spray. Very little spray gets out. The picture shows the tub/shower from which I got the inspiration to modify the Kohler tub.

Now I plan to make a slip in 3/8" glass "door" to make the Kohler tub into a low step in style, or insert the glass panel to use it as a tub, it'll hold two people easily, and it features an air bubble jet massage feature. To modify the tub I'll make an insert shape like that shown on the Euro tub, and then notch and glass in the insert to the Kohler tub. The left side of the notch will align to the bottom right edge of the hinged shower door, then to the right even to the end of the front service panel. I know I can make the notch, and make it with a channel in it to engage and seal the slip in glass panel. I want to white gelcoat the notch insert before I cut the tub wall and glass it in place. I need to account for the gel-coat thickness when I create the channel for the glass insert.

I plan to use a piece of 1/2" thick acrylic plastic to form the channel (into which the glass slip in door will fit). The "plug" will be a basic rectangular shape but with the tall sides at a slight taper so the top of the plug is slightly wider then the bottom. I'll be sure to polish the edges of the acrylic to get a very smooth fiberglass when I form that up. I'll coat the 1/2" acrylic with mold release and form the groove by laying the fiberglass directly onto the panel edge, then form the sides of the tub insert by glassing onto the sides of the acrylic panel. After forming the insert I'll white gel coat it, planning for 1/8" thick gelcoat to get to the final 3/8" groove width to fit a 3/8" glass door insert. With all that done, I'll cut out the tub wall to fit the notch insert, glue and fiberglass it into the tab wall, and finally white gelcoat the edges to blend the notch into the tub wall. If all goes to plan it should look stock. When I want to use it as a tub just slide the 3/8" glass panel into the notch and fill the tub.

 

[RivennHewn]

Looks like a fun project.
Not sure I have much to add, but would be interested in see progress and final pics.

keep us updated on your progress!