toolferone
Well-known member
What about getting electrical out to the lift? Can you run conduit under the slab over to the wall?
Finally getting to build a detached garage/shop!!!
- Thread starter CarCrazyRDM
- Start date
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CarCrazyRDM
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Rebar is not required even without the fiber. As with most things, you'll find various opinions about rebar but I chose to go without it.
The plan right now is to run power up the outside wall in a piece of conduit and through the wall into the back of the panel. From there I'll run wires wherever I need them, lift included.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
Good point, I had not thought about that. I don't think it'll be a problem width-wise because hopefully it will pass between the posts. But the plan was to cut them every 12' length-wise and that may be very close to the post pads. I will have to measure when I get home. Again, thanks the heads up on this, I hadn't even considered that and if I'm not home when they do it they would likely just cut right across them.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
Brick done! Concrete going in today!!! Probably going to have to go home at lunch to check out the progress, lol.
HemiRamOn22s
Well-known member
Your garage is coming along nicely. If it was mine I would at least go with fiber. Its only $6 more per CY. Im using welded wire mats in my pole barn. I used fiber on my house garage and basement floors. I dont see any Keyway or Zip strips? Are you planning on saw cutting the concrete after they pour?
JCQuick
Well-known member
That looks great You were lucky to get it up so quick I did mine on a budget and it took a while but I'm almost there. Mine is 28'x36 with 11'4 walls so I'll be watching your build.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
The concrete is 4000 psi with fiber mesh. And yes, they will be saw cutting some expansion joints after it has cured for a few days.
Yeah, I considered trying to build it on my own, with the help of some friends, and/or sub'ing some of the jobs out myself but ultimately my wife and I decided it was worth the money to just hire most of it out and not spend the next year or longer of our lives messing with it. I'm wishing I had gone wider like your 28' but using the wooden I-beam design it became more costly quickly and trying to get the building to physically fit between allowed lot line limitations and my septic system leach lines was going to get tight. This will be plenty big for my needs... at least for now, lol. Best of luck with finishing your build.
HemiRamOn22s
Well-known member
Is that why they garage ended up on a slight angle when lined up to the house garage?
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
Basically. The lot is pie shaped and we decided to run the building parallel with the lot line one in order to maximize our space of the rest of our backyard and two because in order to have the garage square with the house and with the existing concrete pad it had to be super close to the corner of the house to not cross lot line limitations or leach lines. And we didn't want the detached garage right on top of the house because I wanted to have some "extra" paved surface for parking spots and/or guests to turn around in as well as I wanted to be able to have enough room to drive a vehicle between the corners of the detached and house if need be.
So that is the long-winded answer. My wife and I debated the angle but ultimately decided it would look fine, which we think it does, and adds a little character to how it's laid out. And honestly at the angle it is set at it aligns better with the driveway.
So that is the long-winded answer. My wife and I debated the angle but ultimately decided it would look fine, which we think it does, and adds a little character to how it's laid out. And honestly at the angle it is set at it aligns better with the driveway.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
I just "had" to go home for lunch to check on the progress. 
Can't wait to get home from work today and hopefully see all the concrete done!
Can't wait to get home from work today and hopefully see all the concrete done!
jimgood
Well-known member
That's gotta be exciting! Really nice shop!
Scottishross
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2012
- Messages
- 621
Not sure if the sizes are in the tread or not
what size is the garage
stunning garage
what size is the garage
stunning garage
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
24 x 36 and thanks.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
All the concrete is down and looking great! Some garage doors and paint and we'll have the structure complete. Then I'll finish off the inside as time and money allow.
The view from the kitchen:
And the guys stayed well after dark to complete the finish work on the inside slab.
The view from the kitchen:
And the guys stayed well after dark to complete the finish work on the inside slab.
toolferone
Well-known member
Awesome! I know how excited you are.
dwysywd
Well-known member
Garage looks fantastic. I'm jealous of the concrete. I haven't been able to pour mine yet since we finished building in December. So this spring I'm finally getting mine. The 2 block up is a nice touch as well.
Regards,
Jeff
Sent from my bag phone...
Regards,
Jeff
Sent from my bag phone...
HemiRamOn22s
Well-known member
Looking good! What are your plans with the lean to on the back on the garage?
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
Best of luck with yours. Has it been a weather issue? And as far as the 2 block up on mine, that was really done more to get my 12+ foot ceilings as opposed to aesthetic reasons but I like it for that reason as well.
Mostly for my utility trailer. Although for a while that may even stay inside since I'll likely have the room for a bit. But it was a cheap and easy addition so I figured I might as well put it back there to have some additional covered storage for whatever in the future.
I was going to answer all your questions but then you went and made the Tar-hole comment!
I'm an NC State grad. But honestly since State rarely makes it to the sweet sixteen let alone the final four or finals I suppose I should probably just be happy NC is representing.But on a serious note, we're on just less than an acre. The "base" price from my builder for a 24x36 ran in the mid to upper 30's. After all my "extras" it ran just over $50k though with the addition of the second story, hardy plank, the brick veneer being the majority of that extra cost. This does not include any paint, plumbing, electrical, or any interior finish work. I'm going to do everything but the exterior paint myself as time and money allow. I hope to have less than $60k in it after all the finish work, including epoxy floor, and the addition of a lift. We'll see though, lol.
JCQuick
Well-known member
I had a budget for the structure too.
I'm proud to say that I came in just a bit over After that is the what I can afford type budget 
lethal-6
Well-known member
Great looking build. I like the size I think I'm going with 28 to 30 width. Great job on all of it. This gives hope on the smaller lots in the HOA subdivisions.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
Thanks Lethal. Thankfully my HOA was relatively easy to work with. But I pretty much had their approval before we ever bought the house (we moved in last August). My wife and I both really wanted to be in a neighborhood but I also wanted more than a standard 2 car attached garage. So part of my requirement for moving was the house already had a 3+ car garage or preferably a lot and house situated such on it that I could build what I wanted.
We found this place and I knew it would work as long as the leach lines for the septic system were out of the way (they can be moved but it's costly) and as long as the HOA would allow me to build what I wanted. So I showed them pics of example garages and rough design sketches before we signed the sellers contract. The HOA of course couldn't give me "official" approval until I submitted my real plans etc but I got enough in writing (an email) and a good enough vibe from the architectural committee and HOA president verbally that I was pretty sure it would all pan out. Thankfully it did!
They were even nice enough, along with the neighbors on that side of our property, to let me build the garage 15 feet from the side lot line, opposed to the 20 ft that is stipulated in the covenants. The county only requires 10 feet from side lot lines. I still would have built it at the 20 foot limit but it wasn't going to align as well with the driveway or we were going to have to push it back further on the property.
It took some leg work but I think the HOA folks and neighbors are cool with everything and I know I am. I made sure to get in writing though that the immediate neighbors and the arch committee members gave us permission to be inside the 20ft limit. I know everyone is happy now but I wanted to have something legally concrete should new neighbors move in and have an issue or when we go to sell the place... not that there is a plan to do this any time soon, especially not now, lol.
We found this place and I knew it would work as long as the leach lines for the septic system were out of the way (they can be moved but it's costly) and as long as the HOA would allow me to build what I wanted. So I showed them pics of example garages and rough design sketches before we signed the sellers contract. The HOA of course couldn't give me "official" approval until I submitted my real plans etc but I got enough in writing (an email) and a good enough vibe from the architectural committee and HOA president verbally that I was pretty sure it would all pan out. Thankfully it did!
They were even nice enough, along with the neighbors on that side of our property, to let me build the garage 15 feet from the side lot line, opposed to the 20 ft that is stipulated in the covenants. The county only requires 10 feet from side lot lines. I still would have built it at the 20 foot limit but it wasn't going to align as well with the driveway or we were going to have to push it back further on the property.
It took some leg work but I think the HOA folks and neighbors are cool with everything and I know I am.
I made sure to get in writing though that the immediate neighbors and the arch committee members gave us permission to be inside the 20ft limit. I know everyone is happy now but I wanted to have something legally concrete should new neighbors move in and have an issue or when we go to sell the place... not that there is a plan to do this any time soon, especially not now, lol.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
12/12
Thanks.
I am thinking of a similar building but my pitch will be 10/12 to match the gable on the house. Also would like to go 26' wide. I am curious to see how your stairs affect usable floor space once the lower half are installed and you put your cars in.
I am thinking of a similar building but my pitch will be 10/12 to match the gable on the house. Also would like to go 26' wide. I am curious to see how your stairs affect usable floor space once the lower half are installed and you put your cars in.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
I would recommend 26' or 28' wide. I would have except for a combination of lot limitations and cost. But that extra 2'-4' I think will come in handy if you plan to have two cars in there side by side along with cabinets or a sink or work benches etc on one or both sides.
My lift is going to kind of be centered between the left wall and the left side of the lower section of stairs. Actually I think there will be roughly 3ft between the left post and the left wall and around 5ft from the right post to the left edge of the stairs. So there will be no parking of cars back there but that was never my intention. I really just wanted to be able to have a lift in the back with a car on it and still be able to have two cars pulled in behind it. But this will leave me plenty or room to move around between the right lift post and the stairs while also giving me enough space on the left to comfortably walk through or roll a tool cart through etc.
The guys came back on Friday and attached the lower section of stairs and cut the expansion joints. And they told me to wait until Sat. before driving on the concrete. I was going to wait even longer but I just couldn't do it, lol. I had a buddy stop by today with his very low Corvette (between 3" and 4" of clearance on the front and sides) to see if I was going to have any trouble getting any lowered cars I might own in the future up or down the "ramp" into the garage. I was worried because it came out a little steeper than I expected (and truthfully I was a little upset with the GC at first because I told him from the get go what I needed to be able to get in and out of there etc... and then the slab ended up being about 6" higher elevation than I really wanted).
Anyway, even with a car this low it can be done. It did require going up the ramp at an angle to both clear the front lip spoiler and then the mid section of the car as it crested the break between the garage slab and the ramp. But ultimately if I were to ever own something this low I could come and go without scraping and with a little practice of exactly how to enter and exit. Not ideal but then again I don't really expect to have anything quite this low. Most the lowered Stangs I've had in the past have had probably 4"-5" of clearance, which might be close pulling in straight but I still don't think would be a problem. The owner of this car actually told me today that he had plans to raise the front end back up some because he was having trouble getting in and out of his driveway. I wish it were mine to leave parked in there but one thing at a time, lol. It sure did look nice in there though.
My lift is going to kind of be centered between the left wall and the left side of the lower section of stairs. Actually I think there will be roughly 3ft between the left post and the left wall and around 5ft from the right post to the left edge of the stairs. So there will be no parking of cars back there but that was never my intention. I really just wanted to be able to have a lift in the back with a car on it and still be able to have two cars pulled in behind it. But this will leave me plenty or room to move around between the right lift post and the stairs while also giving me enough space on the left to comfortably walk through or roll a tool cart through etc.
The guys came back on Friday and attached the lower section of stairs and cut the expansion joints. And they told me to wait until Sat. before driving on the concrete. I was going to wait even longer but I just couldn't do it, lol. I had a buddy stop by today with his very low Corvette (between 3" and 4" of clearance on the front and sides) to see if I was going to have any trouble getting any lowered cars I might own in the future up or down the "ramp" into the garage. I was worried because it came out a little steeper than I expected (and truthfully I was a little upset with the GC at first because I told him from the get go what I needed to be able to get in and out of there etc... and then the slab ended up being about 6" higher elevation than I really wanted).
Anyway, even with a car this low it can be done. It did require going up the ramp at an angle to both clear the front lip spoiler and then the mid section of the car as it crested the break between the garage slab and the ramp. But ultimately if I were to ever own something this low I could come and go without scraping and with a little practice of exactly how to enter and exit. Not ideal but then again I don't really expect to have anything quite this low. Most the lowered Stangs I've had in the past have had probably 4"-5" of clearance, which might be close pulling in straight but I still don't think would be a problem. The owner of this car actually told me today that he had plans to raise the front end back up some because he was having trouble getting in and out of his driveway. I wish it were mine to leave parked in there but one thing at a time, lol. It sure did look nice in there though.
texasranger
Well-known member
In the first pic it looks like the mortar joints and slab have different slopes. Is that real?
My attached 2 car is 24' wide on the inside. Among other junk I have a 3' deep work bench on the one side and 2' deep Costco shelves on the other side. It is tight but can still fit 2 cars with enough room to get a toddler in and out of a car seat as long as you do it from the center of the garage. If people are getting in the passenger side we end up loading and unloading outside.
What size is your garage door?
My attached 2 car is 24' wide on the inside. Among other junk I have a 3' deep work bench on the one side and 2' deep Costco shelves on the other side. It is tight but can still fit 2 cars with enough room to get a toddler in and out of a car seat as long as you do it from the center of the garage. If people are getting in the passenger side we end up loading and unloading outside.
What size is your garage door?
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
No, you are correct, the slab slopes down... my GC recommended and I also wanted it that way for drainage, specifically for washing the floor down and/or if I feel the need to wash or rinse the car inside one day. The floor is actually highest I think about 3/4 of the way back. It slopes down from there towards both garage doors. I think the total drop was about 1.5" towards the double door and about 1/2" towards the rear.
The double door is 18'x8' and the single in the back is a 9'x7'.
lethal-6
Well-known member
Thanks for the info, I have my realtor working on get me approval on several properties now. We had one picked out with 1.5 acres but ended up being to much $$s. So I'm back on the hunt for another one but so far they all have an hoa.
HRJoe
Well-known member
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
Garage doors installed. Caulking and possibly paint may start as early as the end of this week and then this puppy will be nearly complete on the outside!
I'm really digging the flush mount doors with the side mounted motor. I didn't necessarily need it with the big door but figured why not. But I definitely needed it with the small door in the back for additional clearance where the lift will be. The big door actually could have gone closer to the ceiling but the installer already had it mostly installed yesterday when I got home and he said he hadn't been told to make either of them true "flush" mount, just higher than usual. He would have swapped it out for me but I didn't see the need being that it was only going to gain me about 6" - 7" additional clearance and to what end really. Thankfully he had not installed the smaller door yet and I told him I wanted that one as close to the ceiling as possible, which he said wasn't a problem now that he knew. He just had to get an additional piece of track.
There was also a miscommunication between my GC and I about whether or not the small door was going to be motorized. I thought it was just part of the additional cost but the installer said it wasn't on the order and when I went back and looked at our paperwork it wasn't spelled out like it was with the big door. I could definitely have it added now and/or see if my GC would split it with me but after mulling it over decided it really isn't necessary. I'm really only going to use that door to take my lawn mower in and out of the garage and occasionally my utility trailer, so opening and closing the door manually won't be a big deal. And if I change my mind I can always add it later.
Anyway, on to the pics. I know they aren't all that exciting but they're one of the bigger last touches.
I'm really digging the flush mount doors with the side mounted motor. I didn't necessarily need it with the big door but figured why not. But I definitely needed it with the small door in the back for additional clearance where the lift will be. The big door actually could have gone closer to the ceiling but the installer already had it mostly installed yesterday when I got home and he said he hadn't been told to make either of them true "flush" mount, just higher than usual. He would have swapped it out for me but I didn't see the need being that it was only going to gain me about 6" - 7" additional clearance and to what end really. Thankfully he had not installed the smaller door yet and I told him I wanted that one as close to the ceiling as possible, which he said wasn't a problem now that he knew. He just had to get an additional piece of track.
There was also a miscommunication between my GC and I about whether or not the small door was going to be motorized. I thought it was just part of the additional cost but the installer said it wasn't on the order and when I went back and looked at our paperwork it wasn't spelled out like it was with the big door. I could definitely have it added now and/or see if my GC would split it with me but after mulling it over decided it really isn't necessary. I'm really only going to use that door to take my lawn mower in and out of the garage and occasionally my utility trailer, so opening and closing the door manually won't be a big deal. And if I change my mind I can always add it later.
Anyway, on to the pics. I know they aren't all that exciting but they're one of the bigger last touches.
texasranger
Well-known member
Looking good! I always thought you needed two tracks to get the high rise/flush garage door, but looks like your installer did it with one. Maybe its low overhead I was thinking of...
James-W
Well-known member
Garage looks wonderful!!!
Just one suggestion, instead of painting anything have it wrapped with metal so that there is no need to do any future painting. We had the house wrapped many years ago and as far I am concerned it was one of the best things we ever did to the house. I used to hate climbing a ladder and doing the scraping and painting with a passion.
Just one suggestion, instead of painting anything have it wrapped with metal so that there is no need to do any future painting. We had the house wrapped many years ago and as far I am concerned it was one of the best things we ever did to the house. I used to hate climbing a ladder and doing the scraping and painting with a passion.
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CarCrazyRDM
Well-known member
James, painting it to match the house is part of what is required by the covenants/HOA of my neighborhood. Plus quite honestly I want it to match the house to look integrated with the property and neighborhood.
But just out of sick curiosity, what do you mean exactly by having it "wrapped with metal?"
But just out of sick curiosity, what do you mean exactly by having it "wrapped with metal?"
James-W
Well-known member
You can have a company that does this type of work come in and instead of painting the wood trim brown, or whatever color you want, they will wrap the wood with thin sheet metal, usually aluminum, and the color of the metal will be the same color as if the wood were painted. That way it looks like you have the wood painted but it really is thin sheet metal. The good part of having it metal rather than just painted wood is that you never have to scrape and paint it. As you get older not having to climb ladders to do scraping and painting gets to be more and more important.