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First "pro" tools, need reassurance

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Codejack

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Nice!

So, new dilemma: Snap on dual 80 ratchet, 3/8" to go with that GW impact socket set I just ordered: $60 Used "good condition" or $65 new "out of box." In either case, ~$125 for a snap on ratchet and 44 gearwrench impact sockets.

I can do this, but it will mean waiting on the 1/2" drive set for a couple of weeks. Or, I can stick with the HF ratchet for $16.

I also found a 1/2" snap on ratchet of $80, but there are several of those, and I can always get the HF socket set.
 
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Infinia

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Yer doin' the right thing, keep it up!
I don't know about 1/4" drive impacts... isn't that an oxymoron? "tiny impacts" what torque is made for.

Harbor Freight sockets and Snap-on ratchets too bad they cant mate n have kids together...
 
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Codejack

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yer doin' the right thing, keep it up.
I don't know about 1/4" drive impacts... isn't that an oxymoron? "tiny impacts" what torque is made for.

Again, I hardly ever use 1/4" in the first place; maybe once a year I need two 10mm or 5/16" sockets and a wrench just won't do, so I use the 1/4" set.

Hence the delay of the 1/4" set, and possibly a short delay of the 1/2"...

Is a Snap On ratchet that much better?
 

jumbojak

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Nice!

So, new dilemma: Snap on dual 80 ratchet, 3/8" to go with that GW impact socket set I just ordered: $60 Used "good condition" or $65 new "out of box." In either case, ~$125 for a snap on ratchet and 44 gearwrench impact sockets.

I can do this, but it will mean waiting on the 1/2" drive set for a couple of weeks. Or, I can stick with the HF ratchet for $16.

I also found a 1/2" snap on ratchet of $80, but there are several of those, and I can always get the HF socket set.

The HF ratchets are pretty dang good. The long flex I have has far exceeded any expectations I had for it. If I wanted a Snap On I'd wait until what I already had brought in some dough. Plus, you said HF is fifteen minutes away so a replacement might be easier to get if you do need it.

Edit: you already bought one so... good chance to compare them head to head!
 
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Codejack

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The HF ratchets are pretty dang good. The long flex I have has far exceeded any expectations I had for it. If I wanted a Snap On I'd wait until what I already had brought in some dough. Plus, you said HF is fifteen minutes away so a replacement might be easier to get if you do need it.

Maybe I'll blow the $16 on the HF one and make them fight it out.

I wasn't going to spend $110 on a ratchet, at least not yet; $50 was just too tempting.

And I have "some dough" coming in, it's just all ******* in cars at the moment. Let me get the two I am working right now gone, and I can see about another $150 on the 1/2" set.
 
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Codejack

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Edit: you already bought one so... good chance to compare them head to head!

Heh, yea, you were just a minute too late :)

I need spares, anyway; that's the biggest thing stopping me from selling off my old williams kobalt set.

This set keeps evolving, and I'm just sort of pulling the trigger on stuff as it comes up and meets my needs.

I'm not worried about the sockets, much; impact sockets should handle anything that I am going to throw at them.

It's the ratchets, and one little annoying thought in the back of my mind has been, "OK, so they put 500 ft-lb of torque on that wrench and it didn't break; what is going to happen when you do that 500 times?" I haven't seen that youtube video :dunno:

I have a hard time buying that Snap On is 10 times better than the HF ratchets... but I might buy that they are 3 times as good, which is what I paid, and the 1/2" ratchet is 4 times as much. If the 3/8" impresses me, I could see shelling out $80 on the SO ratchet and then using the HF impact sockets.

I could also see shelling out the $20 for the HF ratchet just as a spare.

Still, I am coming in right at $300 for box, wrenches, and 3/8" and 1/2" ratchet and socket sets.

Beat that with a stick.
 

Gmonkee

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Comparing bowling balls to oranges I guess but in my plastic jug tool tote with wrenches, a 3/8" socket set, pliers and the usual odd stuff. Not exactly the same content but the same concept of frugality.

Probably just under a hundred dollars to do the solid 90% of the jobs in a work week.

All time proven tools and whatever I could scrounged up out of the used market.

I could easily up that by about a grand by just bringing in the Wurth tools and the small socket set but I don't need that stuff to do my job.

I say job well done Sir. Us po' boys gotta get creative to keep up sometimes. And I scrounged up used tools a long time to get started.
 
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Codejack

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Probably just under a hundred dollars to do the solid 90% of the jobs in a work week.

All time proven tools and whatever I could scrounged up out of the used market.

I could easily up that by about a grand by just bringing in the Wurth tools and the small socket set but I don't need that stuff to do my job.

I'm trying to thread the needle in between the two, right?

I need serious tools, but I don't have $1000 to spend on them right now.

I've got $150, which I just blew on the box and 3/8" set (seems reasonable); I'll have another $150 or so in a week, that should get me the 1/2", at least in shallow, and I already have most of the deeps that I need (common lug sizes, etc).

Then I need to decide if I need a 1/4" set (maybe just grab the HF set for $40? It's not like 1/4" should need a lot of torque...) or start assembling specialty tools (my own ball joint and bearing kits so I don't have to rent them!).
 

Gmonkee

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Once the basics are established get what you use the most. Stop renting and borrowing.

I do oils, brakes and tune up stuff mostly. Then strut and shock type work. That is where my junk is aimed at.

Given time you too will have unused good tools tucked away as you can upgrade. Enjoy the process and take pride in making the distance one future day.
 

sberry

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Probably just under a hundred dollars to do the solid 90% of the jobs in a work week.

All time proven tools and whatever I could scrounged up out of the used market.

I could easily up that by about a grand by just bringing in the Wurth tools and the small socket set but I don't need that stuff to do my job.
When I started out I needed everything, today is resembles this most of the time.
 

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Tallpilot

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Then I need to decide if I need a 1/4" set (maybe just grab the HF set for $40? It's not like 1/4" should need a lot of torque...) or start assembling specialty tools (my own ball joint and bearing kits so I don't have to rent them!).

Don't buy this from Amazon it is cheaper elsewhere. I believe I paid $50 for mine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDRSQUE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

When your 3/8 won't fit; this will. It also goes smaller than the HF set and doesn't do stupid things like skip 12mm. It is worth the extra $10.

Trigger was pulled; I even got free shipping :)

I can go get the HF ratchet when the set comes in, and wait for the next 20% off sale on the 1/2" set, then grab the 1/4" set next time I have a spare $75...

That was an awesome price! Let us know how those work.

Do you have a long handle flex head ratchet? I have a ridiculous number of ratchets in case something is difficult to get to but the go to is the long handle flex head.
 
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Codejack

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Don't buy this from Amazon it is cheaper elsewhere. I believe I paid $50 for mine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDRSQUE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

When your 3/8 won't fit; this will. It also goes smaller than the HF set and doesn't do stupid things like skip 12mm. It is worth the extra $10.

I'll consider it; at this point, I'm really liking the idea of an all-impact set, so I think I'm going to wait for a deal on this (I've seen it as low as $40, but not right now):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MWOVIU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

And grab another Snap On ratchet (the 1/4" can be had for ~$40).


That was an awesome price! Let us know how those work.

I'll post pics when it comes in; the box, 3/8" sockets and the snap on ratchet should be here by Monday.


Do you have a long handle flex head ratchet? I have a ridiculous number of ratchets in case something is difficult to get to but the go to is the long handle flex head.

I don't, and that seems like the kind of thing to try a cheap HF version to see if I use it much, and then buy a good one if/when that one fails.

I can't find the SO flex-heads as cheap as the normal ratchets; I can find the industrial finish cheaper for some reason...
 

Mr_B

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long 3/8 flexi head or swivel head super useful, pick one up in pro range at HF when got a coupon/sale. when it fails just go get it swapped for new one . they pretty strong if just beefing on it buy hand.
 
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Codejack

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long 3/8 flexi head or swivel head super useful, pick one up in pro range at HF when got a coupon/sale. when it fails just go get it swapped for new one . they pretty strong if just beefing on it buy hand.

Sounds good, not a priority, though. I want the 1/2" drive set, first.
 

Mr_B

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Yeh something get/try later on when basics all covered & $ coming in and see a HF P-Pro at a crazy coupon price .
I use long flexi's and a 3/8 swivel more than anything else. extra leverage and ability angle slightly useful as is just the longer reach sometimes .
Grab that gearwrench 1/4 set if see it cheap though as pretty decent and 40bucks would be too cheap to miss .
 
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Codejack

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Tool box arrived:

909a811680b4560799bd5be5645b2c60.jpg


14b6c036ca6b95c9d95ad0c26d081120.jpg


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9a97bb066a5904df02cf322e5c9aa9be.jpg


I like it; it's not perfect, but it was $45, I wasn't expecting military-grade, and I'm not planning on abusing it.

The instructions say to lubricate the drawer slides, which do not have bearings, they just slide; should I use wheel bearing grease, or something else? It seems like light oil will wear off too quickly.

I am also looking at putting something on the bottom of the drawers, either buying the liner stuff they sell and cutting it to fit my set, or just gluing some thick felt to the bottom.
 

Sal Bandini

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Looks like a nice toolbox.

Did you ever own Craftsman 3-drawer? How does it compare to it?
 
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Codejack

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Looks like a nice toolbox.

Did you ever own Craftsman 3-drawer? How does it compare to it?

I have a Craftsman rolling tool box, 4 drawer bottom and 7 drawer top; this isn't nearly that nice. No bearings in the rails, plastic (good plastic, but still).

But then, it weighs 15 lb; the equivalent metal box would be 25+.

Give me a week or two of lugging it around after I fill it up with tools, and I'll let you know how it holds up. I have pretty well abandoned the idea of fitting a full 1/4" set in this box; it's just going to be too heavy. Again, though, how often do I need smaller than 8mm or 5/16"?

It looks like the 3/8" set will fit in the top drawer, the 1/2" ratchet, accessories and shallow sockets in the middle, but 1/2" deep are going to have to go in the bottom.

Wrenches and 1/2" breaker bar in the top, with room for gloves, rags, a can of lubricant, etc.
 
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ChrisPace

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Long term you should grab a nice used set of Dual 80's. Something you can keep for a lifetime and be proud of. I'm a big fan of 120xp's as well. They are as smooth as the Snap On's. The chrome doesn't seem to be as durable though but that's just a cosmetic issue after a bit of use. 120Xp's seem to have a huge following around here. Craftsman thin profiles are awesome too. Essentially Apex or Gearwrench. Easy to get free rebuild kits.
 
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Codejack

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I just ordered a SO GF80 off ebay, and I will be ordering a GS80(A) maybe this weekend, if I get lucky and sell a car :)

Others warned me off of the 120xp's, saying the backdrag was too high, and I found the SOs for not that much more money.

----------------------------

The one problem that I ran into is that my 24" breaker bar is just too big to fit into the top of my box; I may try to find an 18", or I may just find a section of pipe to put over the SO ratchet :)
 

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I'm curious to see how that black oxide ratchet works out for you given that you won't be working out of a,shop. I almost bought some black wrenches for use around the farm but thought they might get too hot to handle at midday in August.
 
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Codejack

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I'm curious to see how that black oxide ratchet works out for you given that you won't be working out of a,shop. I almost bought some black wrenches for use around the farm but thought they might get too hot to handle at midday in August.

Well, that goes for the impact sockets, too...

I'm usually working in shade, though, as opposed to farm work, which I can see might be out in the open more.
 
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Codejack

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Noooooooooooooo!

So, my 23" x 10" toolbox was apparently measured according to flanges and handles sticking out; the actual box is closer to 22" x 9"....

And my 25" breaker bar is just too big to fit into the top compartment.

Should I just toss an 18" chunk of pipe in there to put on my ratchet handle?
 

jumbojak

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Well, that goes for the impact sockets, too...

I'm usually working in shade, though, as opposed to farm work, which I can see might be out in the open more.

True, but the socker will be on a ratchet or impact most of the time. That ratchet will spend a lot more time in your hand.
 

Mr_B

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could you not put 2 straps of some sort on outer box to hold couple longer items such as breaker bar, long screwdriver prybar etc . Could go a short knuckle bar and nice fitting pipe I suppose .
 

sberry

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That ratchet will spend a lot more time in your hand.
Long term you should grab a nice used set of Dual 80's. Something you can keep for a lifetime and be proud of. I'm a big fan of 120xp's as well. They are as smooth as the Snap On's. The chrome doesn't seem to be as durable though but that's just a cosmetic issue after a bit of use. 120Xp's seem to have a huge following around here. Craftsman thin profiles are awesome too. Essentially Apex or Gearwrench. Easy to get free rebuild kits.
Do we really have a golden arm here? Is this going on the space shuttle or in a 25 dollar tool box? Do we need to worry about rebuild kits before we even buy them? Do we figure a quality ratchet to need a reman from working on a couple used cars?
Does it make sense a guy has to sell a car to afford a ratchet? How does anyone ever live without it? How did I ever make a career without owning one?
 
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jumbojak

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Do we really have a golden arm here? Is this going on the space shuttle or in a 25 dollar tool box? Do we need to worry about rebuild kits before we even buy them? Do we figure a quality ratchet to need a reman from working on a couple used cars?
Does it make sense a guy has to sell a car to afford a ratchet? How does anyone ever live without it? How did I ever make a career without owning one?

Uh... I recommended a HF ratchet to him. So, I'm not sure why you're quoting me here. I could give a rats behind what name is on a ratchet or where it was made. I was asking a questin about the finish on a hot, sunny day.
 
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Codejack

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Do we really have a golden arm here? Is this going on the space shuttle or in a 25 dollar tool box? Do we need to worry about rebuild kits before we even buy them? Do we figure a quality ratchet to need a reman from working on a couple used cars?
Does it make sense a guy has to sell a car to afford a ratchet? How does anyone ever live without it? How did I ever make a career without owning one?

Uh... I recommended a HF ratchet to him.

Yea, it's confusing.

I'm trying the thread the needle between my old (Williams USA, 55 piece) Kobalt set and a top-of-the-line set. The Kobalt stuff is nice, but missing/lost pieces are expensive to replace, broken pieces are replaced with ****, and I need a bigger set.

Note: I am selling the car because that's what I do; I could order all of this stuff, and more, right now, but that would cut into my reserve fund, and I prefer not to do that.

-------------------------

The spec was a ~$300 portable set of better than DIY-er quality ratchets and sockets.

So, the choices were a big Gearwrench set with **** ratchets and a bunch of sockets that I will never use, or to piece together a smaller set of just what I need in better quality.

Gearwrench: 239 piece, 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2", shallow and deep, some 6 points but all the 1/2" sockets are 12-point, combo wrench set; $150. Decent ratchets: $75. 1/2" Impact sockets, shallow: $52. Box (because I'm not carrying all that **** around): $45.

My set: 102 pieces: Gearwrench 3/8" and Pittsburgh Pro 1/2" IMPACT sockets, all 6 point, deep in 3/8"; $112. Pittsburgh combo wrenches: $15. 3/8" and 1/2" Snap On ratchets (ebay); $130. Box: $45.

------------------------

Why, exactly, do I need 7 different 12mm sockets in various combinations of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 6 point, 12 point, shallow and deep?

I'm going to have 3, just in case I need a deep on one end, and the shallow will be 1/2" drive. Or I can use an adapter.
 

Tallpilot

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I'm curious about the 1/4" set; is that something where 1 tier of quality (if that) is going to make a huge difference? I only ask because:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-Drive-Universal-Pass-Thru-Set-30-Piece-HUVTHRU30PC/204759278

That seems like a reasonable alternative, and 1/4" seems like the least likely to have a lot of strain put upon them.

Other than that, I am having to physically restrain myself from ordering the 1/2" Snap On ratchet; it's $80...

I looked at this set too. My issue was I am not a fan of universal (spline) drive. I like the Gearwrench set because it is 6 point. If I need spline or 12 point I will get one. On a plain hex fastener I just prefer 6 point. But I know plenty of people swear by spline drive but usually not the universal variety due to loose fit.
 
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Codejack

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I looked at this set too. My issue was I am not a fan of universal (spline) drive. I like the Gearwrench set because it is 6 point. If I need spline or 12 point I will get one. On a plain hex fastener I just prefer 6 point. But I know plenty of people swear by spline drive but usually not the universal variety due to loose fit.

Fair enough; I use 1/4" so rarely that I really can't speak as to what is best... which is why I may not get one, at all, any time soon.
 
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Codejack

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Grr, with shipping, it's the same as from Amazon.

As for warranty, it's 1/4"; if you need enough torque to break these tools, they are the wrong tools for the job, IMO.

And this is just one of those, "If for some strange reason I happen to need smaller than 8mm or 5/16"," things to have on hand.

I was actually looking at a non-pass-through kit earlier:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-19-...tion-1-4-in-Drive-Spline-Socket-Set/999957955

But the main thing that attracts me to it is that it keeps up the aesthetic of the tool kit, i.e. all black finish.
 
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Codejack

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The seller on Amazon requires $22.00 + $9.50 shpg = $31.50.

Cripe on their homepage requires $19.00 + $11.34 min shpg = $30.34.
(Cripe apparently increased their minimum shpg since I last ordered.)

Cripe on eBay: $19.00 + $6.75 shpg = $24.75
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kobalt-2235...529650&hash=item5b305bed19:g:LQwAAOSwDk5T6SZ~

You must live someplece different, too, because my minimum shipping charge from the Cripes site was $12.50, so it was literally the exact same price.

$25 off of ebay... and I am having to physically restrain myself :)
 

Tallpilot

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You must live someplece different, too, because my minimum shipping charge from the Cripes site was $12.50, so it was literally the exact same price.

$25 off of ebay... and I am having to physically restrain myself :)

Not a bad price just in case you need it to get out of a jam. The GW set has a few more sizes but twice as much money for rare use is probably silly at this point.

Do you have a scan tool or mostly work on pre-OBD2 cars?
 

jd_1138

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That's what Autozone is for... :thumbup:

Yea, I should probably get one, probably something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I tried one of those Bluetooth ones, and it didn't work very well. Different brand though. I'd just get a standalone OBD-2 scanner like this one for $14 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBDII-Scanner-Code-Reader-CAN-OxGord-MS300-OBD2-Scan-Professional-Tool-/400986254369?_trkparms=5926%3AKEYWORD%7C5079%3A0

Yeah you don't want to have to rely on going to Autozone. May not even be able to get the car there if it's inoperable. You plug these in and hit the scan button and it tells you the diagnostic codes.

Then you can go online and put in the make/model and the code, and it will point to the general area of what's wrong. Could be the wiring though and not necessarily a bad sensor, part, module. In 2017, a laptop can be a valuable part of your car repair operation -- good source of info. and you can watch YouTube videos that show you common repairs. A Chromebook would work well for this -- less mess and fuss as a Windows laptop.

I had one just like this, but the 68 year old neighbor's truck was throwing a CEL, so I brought it over and showed him how it worked. He liked it so much I told him he could have it, but he insisted on paying me $15 for it, so then I just ordered a new one.
 
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Codejack

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I tried one of those Bluetooth ones, and it didn't work very well. Different brand though. I'd just get a standalone OBD-2 scanner like this one for $14 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBDII-Scanner-Code-Reader-CAN-OxGord-MS300-OBD2-Scan-Professional-Tool-/400986254369?_trkparms=5926%3AKEYWORD%7C5079%3A0

OK, cool.


Yeah you don't want to have to rely on going to Autozone. May not even be able to get the car there if it's inoperable. You plug these in and hit the scan button and it tells you the diagnostic codes.

Then you can go online and put in the make/model and the code, and it will tell you what's wrong. Could be the wiring though and not necessarily a bad sensor, part, module. In 2017, a laptop can be a valuable part of your car repair operation -- good source of info. and you can watch YouTube videos that show you common repairs. A Chromebook would work well for this -- less mess and fuss as a Windows laptop.

I was hoping to use my Kindle... :)

And yea, I've been through the, "It's not the sensor, it's the wire (or the warning light itself!)" bit.


I had one just like this, but the 68 year old neighbor's truck was throwing a CEL, so I brought it over and showed him how it worked. He liked it so much I told him he could have it, but he insisted on paying me $15 for it, so then I just ordered a new one.

I have an old Nissan that I used to pull the codes by hitting the gas pedal 7 times, holding it down while I turned the key to ignition and then counted the flashes on the CEL.

I would pay $15 to not have to do that again :)
 
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