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Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

RickP

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I'm surprised by that board rotting out too. Especially if it was covered by siding. I know that pressure treatment isn't as good as it used to be, but that's a bit ridiculous. I'm planning to start using ground-contact boards whenever possible, even in above-ground applications.

I've been following along, but just caught up to present day on your thread. Nice job on the shop refurb -- all the new siding and the extra space for the tractor are really looking good.
 
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rlmartinson

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I'm surprised by that board rotting out too. Especially if it was covered by siding. I know that pressure treatment isn't as good as it used to be, but that's a bit ridiculous. I'm planning to start using ground-contact boards whenever possible, even in above-ground applications.
My old man told me that vinyl siding is not waterproof, so you need Tyvek to provide that part of the system. Not sure if its true, but makes sense to me, especially in the corners where the layers just overlap.
 

madison069

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My old man told me that vinyl siding is not waterproof, so you need Tyvek to provide that part of the system. Not sure if its true, but makes sense to me, especially in the corners where the layers just overlap.
That was my explanation from the sales rep and also the contractors I've worked with in the past.
 
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NUTTSGT

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The PT board was under the OSB, which is foil faced. The research I did before using it (several years ago) was that is was fine to use with just taping joints.

I reached under farther down the wall and it doesn't seem to be rotted like that corner. It was open to the bottom, I thought that should have been okay to allow it for air movement to dry. Some exposure like that in 20+ years, wouldn't have surprised me.

That section of roof does get snow piling up due to the roof & wind direction, then it melts. I'll figure it out this Spring, might be a replacing a few boards or it might be a whole wall sheathing replacement.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Got a little garage time yesterday between working multiple shifts at work. I've needed to get the rear brakes done on my truck. I got it backed in and wheels off.KIMG1700.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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As I took the passenger side apart, I saw the rotor was going to come off easily. It did and I realized why.
KIMG1701.JPGKIMG1702.JPG

The driver's side didn't come off as easy but with some persuasion. Fortunately the wife was home for President's Day. She was kind enough to run to O'Reilly's to pick up a set of brake shoes for the E-brakes. I told her this is what happens when you try to do a simple project.

So rear brakes done, good for another 100K miles.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I've never used it Mike. . . and no one else but me drives my truck.

I did find a small piece of shoe material about the size of quarter or half dollar. All the sides and edges were rounded off. I guess it's been like that for a while.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I thought my buddy John would be able to help. I wasn't sure how well he would be able to pick it up.





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Looks like with the back hoe as ballast, he's doing alright.


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NUTTSGT

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I didn't want an actual lift table but just part of it, the top. Have you priced steel lately ? This top is 48"x60"x 1/2" thick. Looking online I found prices any where from $750 to over $1K. So any thoughts what this top plate is going to be used for ? One hint, I won't be cutting it down to size, the current size will be (should be) perfect for my garage.





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Here's the base. You can see the rollers that allowed the top to spin as needed. This will be going to the scrapper to recover a few bucks back.
KIMG1710.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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New, improved welding table?
Yessir.

It will be the top of a new welding table. No plans for table at the moment but several ideas running through my head of what I want. Considered drilling all of it for clamps and such or just part of it. If I go through with drilling it, I'll probably spring for a magnetic drill and a set of annular cutters.

I've been watching some welding table builds on Youtube for some ideas. I thought we had a "show your welding table" thread here at GJ.
 
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NUTTSGT

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We should if we don't
Yes, very much so. A welding/plasma table thread.


Got a coat of primer on the 8.8 rear end yesterday. Stoked up the wood burner to help it dry.

Sunday, I'll be making a trip to pick up a belt sander. Once I get that, I'm going to get the welds cleaned up on the rear end brace, prime and maybe some paint on them. The rear end will get a coat of black Rustoleum .KIMG1723.JPG
 
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madison069

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The Rearend is looking good!

I'm surprised you didn't put something on the floor to keep the paint from splattering on the new floor.

I blame my wife for that train of thought cause I never cared about the garage floor either.......
 
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NUTTSGT

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The Rearend is looking good!

I'm surprised you didn't put something on the floor to keep the paint from splattering on the new floor.

I blame my wife for that train of thought cause I never cared about the garage floor either.......
Thanks. The axles should be here tomorrow unless they come in later today.

Big paint drips will come off with a razor blade. Not really a big deal.... better paint than build up of oil and grime.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I took the belt sander off the stand. The stand went to work with me yesterday. I was hoping for some down time to clean it up but we stayed plenty busy.

I brought it back home and disassembled it.

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All the old hardware.KIMG1735.JPG

Picked up new hardware at TSC.KIMG1736.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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Since I had everything apart, I decided to put some paint on it. Started with the base.KIMG1742.JPG

I ran out of paint, bought a can that I thought was close by cap color since I didn't see the color in stock. Unfortunately, it was way off after doing a few pieces. After supper, the wife and I found a couple cans. So last night, I tried to get it finished painted.

I forgot one of those things about Rust-Oleum paint... Wait 24-48 for a second coat if you can't recoat within 2 hours. The paint of those pieces crinkled.KIMG1743.JPG
Also masked off the sander and got some color on it too.KIMG1744.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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Finally got time to put the puzzle back together.
KIMG1751.JPG

I wasn't sure how these casters were going to work but with some washer stacking, I think they will be fine. 1/2" washer on each side of the leg and two 3/8" washers below the nut. I had nylock nuts to use but with the long stud of the caster, I used a regular nut. Once it was tight, I added the nylock nuts.
Not so much as to double nut it but just didn't have to run the nylock nuts down as far.

KIMG1752.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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Started a new project outside, working on regrading the driveway. I ripped out all the old asphalt. It was probably about 40 years old and ****. KIMG1763.JPG

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Neighbor farmer is hauling off the pile for use at field entrances. I'm going to try to cut a swale along the edge of the road to direct the water along to the yard and towards the creek. I figure I cut out 10-12 tons of asphalt. Ill be bringing some stone back in when I regrade it.

As most of you know, I poured a new floor in my garage because the old one was ****/spalled and it was too low. Being on a state route, they have paved enough that my floor is once again getting low. So before I have an issue again I want to correct it.
 

RickP

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All together and ready to work. I put a new belt on it while I was putting it back together. Spent some time trying to get the thing to track right....PITA.
That looks almost brand new -- nice work on refreshing it. I agree about what a pain those things are to get the tracking set up. I have one with the same problem. I wish the stationary ones had the same tracking adjustment dial that my portable belt sander has.

Started a new project outside, working on regrading the driveway. I ripped out all the old asphalt. It was probably about 40 years old and ****.
You definitely know how to tackle some big projects! I can appreciate your long-term plan for the shop and property. You've really brought them both a long way from what you started with.


Neighbor getting 3rd load.
KIMG1767.JPG
That's the easiest way I've seen to make a pile disappear -- call your neighbor (especially when he brings his own skid steer).
 
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NUTTSGT

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Back to the Mustang.

I got my axles back from Moser after some misplacement on their behalf. all is good though.

While I had the axles out there, I decided to spend the money and have them gun drilled. . . . nothing like the present. They drilled out a hole 1/2-9/16" in diameter about 22" deep into the axles.

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The main reason was to have new C-clip eliminators pressed on after removing the old ones.

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In the bags is new wheel studs. I had the axle flanges drilled/tapped for 5/8" studs rather than the former 1/2" size. You may have noticed the multiple holes on the flanges in the first picture. Those are the old holes and the new holes. Being a 4 lug car, they didn't have to plug weld the flanges before redrilling. All they had to do is turn the flange 45 degrees and redrill. DSCN0045.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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So now I have a pile of stuff laying on the floor, all rear axle stuff. I have new drums and shoes sitting on the work bench to replace the old stuff. Also will be replacing the old 2 chamber Flowmaster mufflers.

DSCN0046.JPG

Before getting it back together, I'm going to replumb the fuel lines. Those braided SS lines are 25 years old. I figure it's about time to replace them. So before the rear end goes back in, I'll do it now.

DSCN0048.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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KIMG1770.JPG

A quick comparison picture between the old & new studs. Notice the old stud standing upright. That should be a socket cap for an Allen. Unfortunately, it's full of aluminum from the old C-clip eliminators. That gives you an idea of the issue I had and what was rubbing as I was trying to make a pass down the track.
 
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