Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®

[madison069]

I wonder if there is a dowel die that could be used to shave the peg down uniformly? Like a pencil sharpener but just reduce the circumference of the peg?

 

[SamYoung]

Pay no attention to the couple of sockets not fitting properly, a few pegs need some "slimming."

I have a few pegs with the same issue. I'd be curious about your solution!

With plastic pegs, I've found that scraping with a razor blade normally gives you a lot of control and a good finished product. Don't try to cut/trim as it'll dig in. Doable, but harder to control in most plastics.
Hold blade perpendicular or even at a negative angle and drag the blade across the problem posts will shave off thin layers and leave a nice finish.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I wonder if there is a dowel die that could be used to shave the peg down uniformly? Like a pencil sharpener but just reduce the circumference of the peg?

Problem is that the pegs are soooo close together.

 

[NUTTSGT]

With plastic pegs, I've found that scraping with a razor blade normally gives you a lot of control and a good finished product. Don't try to cut/trim as it'll dig in. Doable, but harder to control in most plastics.
Hold blade perpendicular or even at a negative angle and drag the blade across the problem posts will shave off thin layers and leave a nice finish.

I've scraped a couple of them or attempted to. It takes so work.

That is why I am considering something like a high speed cutter.

 

[Prospecter]

Dremel sander?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Dremel sander?

That is also a consideration. I'm not sure what I have for sanding drums though.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I removed the column from the base, ground a notch between the plates and flat bar. Then I welded the notches and ground them flat.



After that, I welded the flat bar at the top and on the inside of the assembly.


I'm not sure how hot the steel got but I wanted to let it cool before I wire brushed it with the grinder and did anymore grinding, since the column was cast. I just walked away from it for good measure.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Once I get this column cleaned up, it's getting primer and paint. However, like typical painting, there's always one side that creates an issue.

Problem solved. The bottom is primed and painted.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I also had a box arrive for a future project.



These are FEL attachment brackets. The plan is to build a push blade for the JD. I was going to buy Wheel Horse blade the neighbor has for sale but unfortunately, it's not wide enough. The hunt is on for a cheap 48" blade that is located close to me.

The hunt for the 48" blade ended today. I bought this one off FBMP.

 

[RickP]

That blade looks like it will get the job done.
Are those small skids under it (for gravel)?

 

[NUTTSGT]

That blade looks like it will get the job done.
Are those small skids under it (for gravel)?

Yep, keep it slightly off the surface.

Looking online at few places, this is a bit over a grand new. It should have had another piece on the mount, which is missing, and also has a broken spring.

I believe the build date is 05/18/2011. That makes it 13 years old but doesn't appear to be used hard at all.

I was happy to pay $150 for it.

 

[Johanfpa]

$150 that was a steal and I'm sure you can fabricate the missing piece if you can't buy a spare & source another spring.

 

[NUTTSGT]

$150 that was a steal and I'm sure you can fabricate the missing piece if you can't buy a spare & source another spring.

I'll be building a mount (some how) using the FEL brackets I bought earlier.... along with some steel, the bandsaw and welder.

I'll be finished about 2 days after the last snow melts.

 

[Johanfpa]

I have been looking for a plow for my Husqvarna mower for quite a while and I'm sure we will not get a much snow as soon I found one.
We bought an outside table & chair set in the spring one year and only had a couple of dry days in the whole summer that year.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I have been looking for a plow for my Husqvarna mower for quite a while and I'm sure we will not get a much snow as soon I found one.
We bought an outside table & chair set in the spring one year and only had a couple of dry days in the whole summer that year.

Hopefully, this will work for pushing loose dirt and gravel as well.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The column has by wire brushed and wiped off.

Primer on.



First coat of paint.



Out of the garage so I kick up any dust.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I gave it some time to tack up and dry to the touch. Once I felt comfortable to not have an issue with any dust, I went back out to work on the base.



I thought it was going to take a lot of work but it came clean, fairly easy. Then out came the acetone to wipe it down and the primer.





Heading out for a coat of paint shortly.

 

[NUTTSGT]

2nd coat of paint on.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I ran a tap through the threads and cleaned up the mating surface.



Then finally, mounted the column back on the base. Yeah, I think this is going to work.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Moving forward, I began working on the table. Fortunately, I had worked on it previously.



Got the primer on the bottom. As soon as it gets dry, paint goes on. I think I will be able to flip it over and get the top side primed and painted tonight. It can dry completely Wednesday while I am at work.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Got the top side painted. You can see the blue masking tape under the paint.



You can see I had to stack some blocks under table to get the column mount to clear.

 

[Jgaz]

Pardon the thread derail but I‘d like to ask a question about the two pouches on the exterior of your pack circled in blue in this picture.

Are the two pouches on the left side molle pop flare pouches?
If not do they have a specific name?
When you have a chance would you measure the max length of an item that will fit in one of those two identical pouches?
Thank you.
Feel free to PM me if you’d prefer so we don’t further clutter your thread.

 

[zmotorsports]

The drill press restoration is looking great Eric. Just for a little "maintenance" task, whenever I am running a DA over my fabrication table, usually after a large job, I step over to the drill press table, vertical bandsaw table and combination disc/belt sander and breathe over them with my 6" DA with either 60-grit or 80-grit paper. Takes all of about an extra minute but really leaves a nice metal finished appearance to the equipment, which I really like. Just thought I'd mention a little tip to keep it looking good once you go through all this work restoring it.

 

[zanyad]

@zmotorsports as a machinist I was taught to use a large stone to dress down dings in the machine table. That keeps the table flat. I'd be worried about losing flatness over time with your method.

 

[zmotorsports]

@zmotorsports as a machinist I was taught to use a large stone to dress down dings in the machine table. That keeps the table flat. I'd be worried about losing flatness over time with your method.

On high precision table such as the mill, I would agree. I use a stone each time I remove the mill vise and reinstall. However, for a fabrication table, drill press or bandsaw, you're not really removing any material, at least not enough to cause any variations. I guess if your brains fell out and you stayed in one spot then a person could create a depression, but breathing over the surface in a couple quick passes is not going to remove enough to be concerned about or cause any issues.

 

[zmotorsports]

On high precision table such as the mill, I would agree. I use a stone each time I remove the mill vise and reinstall. However, for a fabrication table, drill press or bandsaw, you're not really removing any material, at least not enough to cause any variations. I guess if your brains fell out and you stayed in one spot then a person could create a depression, but breathing over the surface in a couple quick passes is not going to remove enough to be concerned about or cause any issues.

Although, this is just my opinion based on personal experience, it did get me thinking. Unfortunately, many such opinions exist all over the internet these days, but this did get me wondering if I am correct or just "think" I'm correct. I think many of us repeat things we hear or think of them as gospel, but few are willing to actually test those theories or opinions. I realize I am quite opinionated about many things I have done over my nearly 4 decades of wrenching, but I would like to prove this to myself and confirm that there isn't any noticeable wear. I think I am going to run a precision straightedge across the tables tonight and verify. Like my favorite leader once said, "trust, but verify".

 

[gamescastspencer]

Using a DA or random orbit on a low to intermediate precision surface is not something I see an issue with. Of course, like anything, if done incorrectly will provide a poor result. If attempted with a locked out DA, running wide open with 36 grit and leaning hard on the edge, yes that will cause problems.

I’ve done it plenty of times on old machine tables (belt sander, planer table, drill presses, bandsaw, etc), using 60-120 grit, either even light pressure or let the weight of the sander itself do the work.

As a machinist myself, having made a part or two that is oversize by a .0005-.001, I have found that it takes considerable effort to remove a whole thousandth of an inch from say a 3x3 steel block, using a piece of emery cloth on a surface plate. Even to remove that on a round part by polishing in a lathe it is a still a rather controllable process.

 

[madison069]

Although, this is just my opinion based on personal experience, it did get me thinking. Unfortunately, many such opinions exist all over the internet these days, but this did get me wondering if I am correct or just "think" I'm correct. I think many of us repeat things we hear or think of them as gospel, but few are willing to actually test those theories or opinions. I realize I am quite opinionated about many things I have done over my nearly 4 decades of wrenching, but I would like to prove this to myself and confirm that there isn't any noticeable wear. I think I am going to run a precision straightedge across the tables tonight and verify. Like my favorite leader once said, "trust, but verify".

It really depends on what the tolerance is for your specific surface. This was a common subject in troubleshooting failures, determining maintenance requirements, and what's the acceptable tolerance at my previous job. If tolerance was tight then we required certifications/recalibrations on all tools and surfaces that was used in a process, and it was calibrated after a certain amount of time period or after a certain number of uses. Metal wear was a common topic, and it was not something that could be avoided. So, even though it's not much material being removed, each time that someone sands a surface down to clean it up, it does indicate that metal is being removed due to chemical process (rust), mechanical process (flapper/sandpaper creating dust/sparks), and general use of objects gliding against the surface. Now what's acceptable for the wear/tolerance is up to what's the surface is being used for and what are the tolerance of the other tools being used with the surface for the process. A machinist vise on a drill press table, with a drill press chunk, and flex of the drill bit is all going to give a certain amount of tolerance range of movement when drilling a hole while using the drill press. But so will the dust, metal particle, and imperfection of any clamping surface that's also involved. Heck, even the force you are clamping the tools or object in place, can skew your tolerance reading. If you are not referencing from the table as your point of reference for all measurements, then sanding the table with a sander is not that big of an issue. If you are using the table as a reference point for tight tolerance of measurements, then the table shouldn't be allowed to move due to the imperfection of the floor and the point of contacts on the floor from the table can change your measurements due to the table flexing and the angle of the table surface changing.

What I'm getting at is, determine what's your acceptable tolerance, if it's +/- .0001" then everything needs to be precise. If it's +/-.01" then maybe it doesn't matter so much regarding sanding your machined surfaces, but you should focus more on your ability to ensure you are meeting the tolerance need with your tools.

Like you said though, there's lots of opinions and it's up to you what you think is acceptable based on your results with your tools/tables.

 

[Cane]

I spent 23 years designing, building, and modifying production equipment.

Our welding table was two 5x10 ft. weld sale tables put together. Everyone would tend to do smaller projects in the corner closest to where the welder was parked. After several years of cleaning the table with the da we had to send it out and had it Blanchard ground and banned the use of cleaning the table with the da.

That being said I wouldn't be to concerned with it in a home shop. Just need to be smart about it.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Great discussion and comments guys.

I generally keep a piece of sacrificial plywood or OSB on the drill press table. For a home gamer, it'll be absolutely fine for me but I can see where it could cause an issue.

@zmotorsports
On the discussion about brains falling out, it does happen. By chance, swallowing the barrel of a 16 Ga shotgun will do that. It probably won't be noticed until rolling the body over and finding it between the feet.

 

[zmotorsports]

Eric, I apologize for running the discussion off track from your work on the drill press restoration.

I do want to say that when @zanyad brought up the topic of stoning machining equipment it made me pause and question if I was really doing something out of habit that was damaging my equipment, OR was my opinion validated and accurate. The last thing I want to be is a hypocrite who spews out advice or commentary but has nothing except opinion or "feeling" to back it up. I don't want to be one of those people who doesn't stop to take a look at their processes for gaps or to take a look deep inside to either confirm or deny the statements.

I did a LOT of measuring and testing last night on my equipment and if interested, I posted the results with a lot of pictures over on my projects thread.

Thanks.

 

[Jayman17]

The table on your drill press is in pretty good shape, I only see one shallow drill start. Nice work on the restoration

 

[NUTTSGT]

Eric, I apologize for running the discussion off track from your work on the drill press restoration.

Thanks.

No need to worry my friend. I'm sure I have done my share of hi jacking over the last 15+ years here.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The table on your drill press is in pretty good shape, I only see one shallow drill start. Nice work on the restoration

Yes, drill press was lightly used but sitting in an unheated and uninsulated house garage.

I have always kept sacrificial wood on the table. One of those things I remember from Mr V, my high school Industrial Arts teacher.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I needed this collar for the top of the table adjustment gear. The chrome was **** so I blasted it, primed it and set it up on "Speed Dry" with assistance from the wood burner.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Pardon the thread derail but I‘d like to ask a question about the two pouches on the exterior of your pack circled in blue in this picture.

Are the two pouches on the left side molle pop flare pouches?
If not do they have a specific name?
When you have a chance would you measure the max length of an item that will fit in one of those two identical pouches?
Thank you.
Feel free to PM me if you’d prefer so we don’t further clutter your thread.

Sorry I missed your question earlier.


Those are just magazine pouches for 1911 mags. Nothing special.

If you want further information, let me know. I can take pics and measurements.

 

[NUTTSGT]

This was interesting and worked up a sweat trying to get the table back on with the gear at the same time. It's on

 

[NUTTSGT]

Since the drill head is so damn big, it is getting done in two parts. First the bottom and then I will mount it. Once it's mounted, I will wire brush the top and paint.

Enjoy watching the paint dry

 

[NUTTSGT]

The motor is not going to get painted. It will stay the original gray color if you are wondering.

 

[Prospecter]

Looking good. You've made a lot of progress.