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Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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NUTTSGT

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Johanfpa said:
Any reason you didn't fabricate those tabs yourself other than they don't cost that much so not worth the hassle?
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Didn't really want the hassle. The All-star brand is pretty decent and priced right.

I think that 4 pack of tabs was $11.**, and a few clicks away. Right now, between work, OT getting ready for the daughters wedding, trying to get my Mustang back together for Winter storage, I have plenty to do.

I have no problem making or fabbiing stuff but I'm not to cheap to know when to draw the line between fabbing and buying.
 
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Johanfpa

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NUTTSGT said:
Didn't really want the hassle. The All-star brand is pretty decent and priced right.

I think that 4 pack of tabs was $11.**, and a few clicks away. Right now, between work, OT getting ready for the daughters wedding, trying to get my Mustang back together for Winter storage, I have plenty to do.

I have no problem making or fabbiing stuff but I'm not to cheap to know when to draw the line between fabbing and buying.
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$11 for those tabs is a lot less that I thought they would have been and I fully understand you would not want to spend the time making them. I just wondered because you have shown us some great fabricated pieces, recently the trailer spare tire holder.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Johanfpa said:
$11 for those tabs is a lot less that I thought they would have been and I fully understand you would not want to spend the time making them. I just wondered because you have shown us some great fabricated pieces, recently the trailer spare tire holder.
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Thanks, I appreciate that. I checked out the receipt and they were actually $10.69 plus tax and the small shipping charge.

Keep in mind, I needed new ends to weld on the brace tubes. I can't machine those so they shared the shipping cost. . . . . for those splitting hairs.

So in the end, @ $2.76/tab, they were here before I could actually put them on.

Fortunately, I live close enough to Jegs and Summit to either pick up at the store or have it next day for the most part.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I picked up some grade 5 bolts before work. I grabbed extra for the fastener storage. Now that I think of it, I don't know if I have grade 5 nuts either. Drats.

Anyways, the lowers shock bolts will get replaced with a shorter bolt.

KIMG0140.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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So after getting the UCA & LCA bolts in, along with the shocks mounted back up I put the floor jack under the lower control arms. I knocked the bolt out, lowered the jack, slipped in the coil spring and put the bolt back in. Passenger side done easily.

Drivers side not so much. I ad some issues trying to get it lined back up. I worked from one and then the other, lowered and raised the jack. Argh....

Finally I got a punch in from the left side, went around to the right.. grabbed another punch, lining up, lining up yeah I think I got it. Take the ball peen drive it in..... Try to take it out.


I forget about the punch on the other side. They got wedged together inside the control arm. I put vise grips on them and tried to hammer them out.

KIMG0146.JPG

Then it came to me.....that one tool I bought to do a single previous job....it was sitting in it's case for 2 years now....

KIMG0147.JPG

3 quick pills and it was rectified.
 
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jbmatth

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I rarely use my slide hammer but is sure nice when it is needed...and actually works, sometime though especially on CV axles they just don't want to give up.

JB
 
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NUTTSGT

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jbmatth said:
I rarely use my slide hammer but is sure nice when it is needed...and actually works, sometime though especially on CV axles they just don't want to give up.

JB
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I bought it for a front hub on the wife's old Explorer, even it didn't work. I had to pull the entire assembly off and put it in the press.

The 5lb slide hammer tried it's damnedest but I still got a tool out of the job.
 
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NUTTSGT

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RickP said:
Nice save with the slide hammer.

Having the right tool for the job always makes me smile. (But remembering that I have that perfect tool is the tough part, not to mention where to find it!)
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I knew where it was, just forgot that I had it. Batting .500
 
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madison069

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How did the grove get in the cylinder? Oh and the hammer slide picture reminds me I need to get the adaptor to put a vise grip on my slide hammer....
 
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NUTTSGT

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madison069 said:
How did the grove get in the cylinder? Oh and the hammer slide picture reminds me I need to get the adaptor to put a vise grip on my slide hammer....
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The vise grip attachment came with my kit. Not sure where you would it off hand, Amazon, Northern Tool or Eastwood ?

The groove came from the old axle studs backing out on a pass. They put a groove in the wheel cylinder and C-Clip eliminator (that big block of aluminum) during a pass down the track. I was finally starting to sort out the transmission issues I had been having. launching with a crappy 1.75 60', it still went 11.53 @ 123mph. When I was doing my burnout for the pass, it wanted to push the car and not spin the tires.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Hopefully, the driver's side will be easier tomorrow. Ultra gray under the backing plate and let it dry overnight bolted in place.KIMG0160.JPG

Made a set of alignment studs to help glide the axle in place once the shoes are on.KIMG0161.JPG

Off to work shortly.
 
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madison069

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The adaptors for vise grips are available, but pricey.

2BF1A775-0E70-430D-8B75-30FBEDB33DA3.png

I take it you’re gonna assemble the drum brake and then install the axle shaft setup? Sounds like a pain in the ***. Having to hold the drum assembly while lining up the c-clip eliminator sounds like a whole another level of difficulty I’d rather pass on….
 
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NUTTSGT

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madison069 said:
The adaptors for vise grips are available, but pricey.

2BF1A775-0E70-430D-8B75-30FBEDB33DA3.png

I take it you’re gonna assemble the drum brake and then install the axle shaft setup? Sounds like a pain in the ***. Having to hold the drum assembly while lining up the c-clip eliminator sounds like a whole another level of difficulty I’d rather pass on….
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I did the first one axle first and had to work around the axle. I have no idea how I did them originally or when I redid the brakes previously.

Clearly, I think this is a "Half dozen of one" type of PITA job either way.
 
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NUTTSGT

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captain14 said:
Is that the replacement stove you put in The shop a few years ago? How long ago?

I remember when you were shopping for one and your installation work.
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Yes it is. I think it 2015 when I put it in. I was just looking at the instructions the other day and saw the serial number and purchase date.

Money well spent.
 
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jbmatth

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It is interesting with the good amount of power you've got in this thing you've stuck with 4 lug wheels and they have seemed to have held up well. I completely understand not wanting to go the extra expense of swapping over front and rear as well as wheels though.

JB
 
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NUTTSGT

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jbmatth said:
It is interesting with the good amount of power you've got in this thing you've stuck with 4 lug wheels and they have seemed to have held up well. I completely understand not wanting to go the extra expense of swapping over front and rear as well as wheels though.

JB
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My biggest problem is getting it to hook, secondly, getting it to the track. Since I destroyed slot of stuff back in '08, I've fought getting time to get to the track and breaking transmissions.

If you ever get to a NMRA race, make sure it's a Saturday and watch the guys run True Street. You'll still see a bunch of Foxbodys, many still running 4 lug axles. Keep in mind, those cars are pretty light, but not as light as a Cobra kit car is.
 
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jbmatth

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NUTTSGT said:
My biggest problem is getting it to hook, secondly, getting it to the track. Since I destroyed slot of stuff back in '08, I've fought getting time to get to the track and breaking transmissions.

If you ever get to a NMRA race, make sure it's a Saturday and watch the guys run True Street. You'll still see a bunch of Foxbodys, many still running 4 lug axles. Keep in mind, those cars are pretty light, but not as light as a Cobra kit car is.
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I feel terrible for not getting to watch races more than I do, I only live ~10 miles from a track and have only made 2 in the last few years. I'm somewhat surprised you have that much trouble with traction, but I'm sure there are rules in place I'm not aware of that make it more difficult.

JB
 
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NUTTSGT

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jbmatth said:
I feel terrible for not getting to watch races more than I do, I only live ~10 miles from a track and have only made 2 in the last few years. I'm somewhat surprised you have that much trouble with traction, but I'm sure there are rules in place I'm not aware of that make it more difficult.

JB
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Mostly it's me, just lack of seat time.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Johanfpa said:
Very nice trailer NUTTSGT, is the trailer stored outside/inside and how do you deal with condensation inside the trailer?
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Thanks.

It stays outside most of the time, except for winter. I keep it in storage at the local county fairgrounds show arena.

I have 2 roof vents and Maxxaire covers over them. Those vents are always open and I have the generator door vent cracked. While at home, the trailer is plugged in and I have a 9-12" fan that runs all the time. It provides pretty good air flow.
 
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NUTTSGT

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So as winter is nearing, I needed to cut more firewood. I went to my parents and was cutting a dump trailer load. As I tried to push tree out of the way, I attempted to hit the rear axle lock. . . .

Where did it go ?
KIMG0017.JPG

I jacked it up and put it on stands.

KIMG0018.JPG
 
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