Garage Step/Stair Ideas

[D45]

I am removing the two step stairs going into my garage this week, so the garage floor concrete can be resurfaced with a flake epoxy finish

I have to paint the stairs every year, so I will likely not be building new stairs with a mmaterial that will need any maintenance

Plus, the old wood is spongy in spots and some areas the partical board (yep, old) is falling apart

Is it easy and possible to have a step level with the bottom door threshold and then take a step down? Almost like a platform step?

I think that I also want to build these stronger, with 3 stringers instead of 2 that are currently used

Any tips, tricks or suggestions what I could do here?

 

[gahrajmahal]

Concrete steps or paver block mortared together. I’d make a small 3’ x 3’ landing then one step.

 

[Mike65]

Concrete steps.

 

[larry4406]

I did a house with concrete steps in the garage for a customer. Broom finish for all surfaces. Customer loves it.

I plan to replace my similar garage stair with concrete this summer when I install my Race Deck floor.

Yes you can place a platform (landing) in the stair, it will need to be 3'x3'. It could be flush with the bottom of the metal door sill, 1 rise down from the metal sill, etc (wherever you want it in the flight). Looks like you are stuck with a 3-rise stair (3R).

In new construction (at least in my region), the stair total rise is measured from the floor to the top of the door adjustable sill (not metal sill pan). Measure this and divide by your 3 risers to get your rise height.

The number of risers remains the same whether you have a landing or not. IRC Code today will limit you to a max of 7.75" rise height. Many areas (including mine) take exception to the IRC Code and allow a max rise of 8.25" and a minimum tread depth of 9". Old building Codes typically enforced the 8.25" max,

The number of treads is one less than the number of risers, in your case 2.

If your slab is pitched, this affects the total rise measurement. Treads are typically in the 10.5-11.5" depth range for comfort, so recheck your total rise measurement at around 22" out from the adjustable sill. If you add a landing (and have a pitched slab), this pushes your stair out even further thus increasing the total rise.

Adding a landing may push your total stair out enough that it encroaches on vehicles, so be mindful of this.

 

[D45]

Sorry guys not interested in concrete stairs nor paver block steps

 

[Youngandfree]

If you're cool with having the steps extend further into the space, go for it. I'm a fan of having stair risers as short as possible, and would try to add an additional one myself. I redid front porch steps and made risers minimum height and treads wider, and it's much more comfortable to go up and down.

 

[D45]

I just wonder if I would use a 3 step stringer in my situation

 

[larry4406]

I just wonder if I would use a 3 step stringer in my situation

Can't hurt.

Sounds like you are back to wood construction if you don't want concrete or block.

 

[larry4406]

If you're cool with having the steps extend further into the space, go for it. I'm a fan of having stair risers as short as possible, and would try to add an additional one myself. I redid front porch steps and made risers minimum height and treads wider, and it's much more comfortable to go up and down.

As the riser height gets smaller and smaller, it reaches a point where you feel like you are tripping. I don't like the feel of risers under 7". I do like deeper treads (11-12"). The Code minimum of 9" depth in my area is too small for my feet.

 

[D45]

Can't hurt.

Sounds like you are back to wood construction if you don't want concrete or block.

I'm thinking about using treated stringers, 3 for strength instead of 2

 

[egdede]

OP You can make a step at the same level as the threshold, just keep it at the same level as the floor in the house. As others noted, that will extend the steps into the garage. I would take Larry's suggestion and just make new steps with a little more run (depth). You don't even need a stringer. Build one platform for the base na then a second smaller platform for the top step. I used to have a link to a winding stair diagram that showed how to do this in a corner. The one below kinda =hinbts at what I;m saying. Much easier for you : )

 

[Youngandfree]

As the riser height gets smaller and smaller, it reaches a point where you feel like you are tripping. I don't like the feel of risers under 7". I do like deeper treads (11-12"). The Code minimum of 9" depth in my area is too small for my feet.

My old dog and aging mother both appreciate the 6.5" rise. I replaced 8" rise. I know as I get older I will appreciate them even more.

 

[billconner]

For myself, I prefer risers closer to 6" than 7" - 8 1/4" is code maximum in NY. And treads at least 12" - 9" is code minimum in NY. Research shows stumbles increase as the rise increases, but around 6 1/4" it starts to increase faster.

Visibility and handrails are probably more important.

 

[D45]

Stairs are out for the concrete coating company

 

[D45]

Looks like the aluminum threshold is about 22-7/16" high off the garage floor

 

[larry4406]

Looks like the aluminum threshold is about 22-7/16" high off the garage floor

To be code compliant, you don't measure to the aluminum threshold.

You measure to the raised adjustable sill that is under the door slab. Typically this sill is about 1.5" above subfloor.

 

[mike93lx]

For small steps, I don't do stringers. I'd do it with boxes, stacked on top of each other. I can't find an In-construction Pic, but this is three rectangles, cut to the right riser height, all screwed together. It has bracing where needed and is wildly solid.

Not sure how much better it is, but it keeps the sides closed off and removes the complexity of cutting stringers

 

[larry4406]

For small steps, I don't do stringers. I'd do it with boxes, stacked on top of each other. I can't find an In-construction Pic, but this is three rectangles, cut to the right riser height, all screwed together. It has bracing where needed and is wildly solid.

Not sure how much better it is, but it keeps the sides closed off and removes the complexity of cutting stringers

The stacked box method also removes the complexity of trying to get the stair cut proper on the stringer. The few times I have tried this I always seem to be off by 1.5".

 

[bdbecker]

For small steps, I don't do stringers. I'd do it with boxes, stacked on top of each other...

+1

Totally agree. While you end up using a little more wood, the increase in cost is typically not really an issue because it is a small project. The added benefit is that the box method gives you an overbuilt, very stout set of steps, which is perfect for a high traffic area like this.

 

[mike93lx]

The stacked box method also removes the complexity of trying to get the stair cut proper on the stringer. The few times I have tried this I always seem to be off by 1.5".

I've never messed up a stringer... Nope, never

 

[D45]

So other than the ground level "box", how do the other boxes sit/stand on the ground?

I'm assuming they are all then screwed together?

 

[captain14]

There are several YouTube videos showing how to build box steps like this.

One example

 

[mike93lx]

So other than the ground level "box", how do the other boxes sit/stand on the ground?

I'm assuming they are all then screwed together?

The sides and back line up and I use 2x4's on the inside to connect it all with screws

 

[mike93lx]

If you do stringers, I would definitely run three

 

[Walkers]

To be code compliant, you don't measure to the aluminum threshold.

You measure to the raised adjustable sill that is under the door slab. Typically this sill is about 1.5" above subfloor.

Are you telling him to put the top landing that he wants higher than the threshold?

 

[Walkers]

Is it easy and possible to have a step level with the bottom door threshold and then take a step down? Almost like a platform step?

I think that I also want to build these stronger, with 3 stringers instead of 2 that are currently used

Any tips, tricks or suggestions what I could do here?

Sure the top step would technically be a landing, but it doesn't need to be any bigger than a step. As far as height, within a quarter inch of the threshold height is fine. The door seal could be argued as a within 1/4" protrusion instead of tread height, but in all the stairs I have built it has never come into question, just my experience.

 

[mike93lx]

Sure the top step would technically be a landing, but it doesn't need to be any bigger than a step. As far as height, within a quarter inch of the threshold height is fine. The door seal could be argued as a within 1/4" protrusion instead of tread height, but in all the stairs I have built it has never come into question, just my experience.

In the stairs I pictured, I used three deck boards for the top and had wished I used four. It's nice having some room to stand if you are opening a door while carrying something, but in the OP's case, the stairs are so short that it may not matter

 

[larry4406]

Are you telling him to put the top landing that he wants higher than the threshold?

No.

If he installs a 3’x3’ landing at the top flush with bottom of the aluminum sill, then you can ignore the raised adjustable sill. Then the balance of the stair is calculated from the landing height. A true 3x3’ landing breaks your cadence so the riser heights can change and be unequal.

Sure the top step would technically be a landing, but it doesn't need to be any bigger than a step. As far as height, within a quarter inch of the threshold height is fine. The door seal could be argued as a within 1/4" protrusion instead of tread height, but in all the stairs I have built it has never come into question, just my experience.

To count as a landing, it needs to be 3’x3’. Codes typically allow a maximum variance of 3/8” within the flight. Since the adjustable sill is typically 1.5” taller than the bottom of the sill, it’s out of bounds.

The OP is likely not getting this inspected so he is free to do as he pleases.

 

[D45]

I have around 30" - 32" in overall distance I would like the entire stairs to extend out to

A full 3' x 3' landing isn't an option

 

[Old Moparz]

You'd need to run electric but what about a short escalator??

 

[billconner]

I have around 30" - 32" in overall distance I would like the entire stairs to extend out to

A full 3' x 3' landing isn't an option

As long as door swings in, code (2021 IRC) does not require a landing. I think I'd do 3 treads as deep as possible, and divide total rise by 4 - so ~5 1/2" risers - so no step at threshold level. I think you could reach door knob from floor and not have to pause. 10 1/2" treads or so.

 

[D45]

Yes the door swings in ward

 

[gahrajmahal]

Sorry guys not interested in concrete stairs nor paver block steps

Ok, then these

Pylex 3-Steps Steel Stair Stringer black 7-1/2 in. x 10-1/4 in. (Includes 1 Stair Stringer) 13903 - The Home Depot

The easiest way to build a solid and lasting staircase. Light and easy to manipulate, this stair frame is quickly installed. Designed in 1-piece, it is ready for steps. No more complicated assemblies.

www.homedepot.com

 

[D45]

Those metal stringers are 41" high for a 3 step , won't work

The metal 2 step is 22.50" tall, also won't work

 

[Fav Onefour]

So other than the ground level "box", how do the other boxes sit/stand on the ground?

I'm assuming they are all then screwed together?

I've done box steps. Concrete is rarely perfectly flat.
My recommendation is a solid first box that you can shim to keep from rocking. That means you need a solid box. The framing will sit on shimmed locations vs. the entire box sitting on concrete.
Wood expands and contracts differently than the floor. I use a good flexible adhesive when I install the shims. That will prevent future rocking around and hold the shims in place.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Once you build your step stringers or boxes, would trex decking for treads work to reduce maintenance as you desire?

 

[D45]

Yes I have thought about and looked at composite boards

I built my 12x20 patio with Apex and it's held up nice

 

[CTyankee]

I agree with others on the "box" method. It's only a couple of steps. FWIW, staple/stick some I&W to the bottom platform sitting on the concrete.

 

[mike93lx]

If doing composite and running stringers, I would add a 4th. It's easy to make another and will keep it feeling really solid. I like 12oc for composite

 

[D45]

Yes I did 12" OC for my patio deck with composite