ScottsGT
Well-known member
Let me try this....
Colors are actually closer in person. Simply take a sample of your siding to Lowes and get some outdoor paint.
Garage wall poured to high
- Thread starter Bigbrew
- Start date
Let me try this....
Colors are actually closer in person. Simply take a sample of your siding to Lowes and get some outdoor paint.
steveo1o9
Well-known member
Love the stone veneer, I have been thinking about eventually doing the same. My house has about 30" of exposed CMU foundation showing all the way around. Previous owners never did anything to coat or cover so it just bare CMU. How was the veneer cost? I saw prices varied widely in my brief searching. I have a total area of about 675 SF to cover ultimately.
EDIT: Yikes that would cost me about $7k looking at home depot prices. Guess I'll just parge and paint.
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wrenchguy
Well-known member
imagine the grade brought up to 12" all around the foundation and garage floor fill being brought in to have "x" number steps into the house. ur tar line is low now but should be brought to 12" below sill plates. my foundation looked identical to yours when i built it 30 years ago. you always want a positive fall away from foundation for drainage.
BillK
Well-known member
Like the others said.... it matches the house. What are you going to do with the house foundation that is exposed ?
Either way you can run the siding down all the way to the ground if thats what you want.
Either way you can run the siding down all the way to the ground if thats what you want.
ptschram
Well-known member
Kudzu! You'll never see it after about a week!
crazylunker
Well-known member
Flatstone or plantings.
Furring strips attached with Tapcon screws.
Parrothead
Well-known member
A stone or brick veneer will really set that off and look fantastic. That will change the look entirely. Love it!
I agree, I just don't want to do that down the 28' side and the 28' back. Vinyl would be cheaper. Even if i could bring it down 12-18". Ill get some better pictures this weekend.
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ddawg16
Well-known member
Is that raw material price?
I think I paid about $600 for the stone veneer....about 450 sq ft
The stone caps were about $6 each...I think....
The special mortar was about $30/bg.
ddawg16
Well-known member
JimVonBaden
Well-known member
Agreed.
Jlbc212
Well-known member
^^^ this, except I would leave about 18" of exposed concrete. Slope the finished grading up the foundation wall so that water easily sheds away from the house and the garage.
I would do the stone veneer on the front only that way you get the look you want where it's most visible and it would only use a small amount of stone because the garage doors make up the majority of that wall. The side and back I would just extend the siding down over the concrete so there is 12" or less of the foundation showing above final grade level.
Could always do a little bit of wainscoting around the base
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Do some features on the house and complementary on the garage and once your done final grade and landscaping it will be just fine. I like it being out of the ground-solves a bunch of rain water/ snow issues , drainage . Once your wife is done with flower beds,shrubs etc it will all disappear. Thank your contractor
ard
Well-known member
+2 on the stone veneer.
It adds visual mass and ties the structure to the ground- as Parrot says, it will change the look of your home.
It adds visual mass and ties the structure to the ground- as Parrot says, it will change the look of your home.
steveo1o9
Well-known member
Home Depot and Lowes has the veneer ranging from $60-$120 for between 8 and 10 SF, and about $60 for per corner piece. That all adds up really quickly. Do have any links for what you purchased?
kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
Building a house (and garage) in the beginning stages often looks way out or high. They matched the house foundation. After grading and landscaping it will look fine.
bczygan
Well-known member
Your house is ruined!!!
You need to move out immediately!
Leave a signed and notarized quitclaim deed in the mailbox and email me the address so I can bring all my stuff!
Bill
Hahaha
Thanks, i appreciate that. This is my forever home and I want it to be perfect, it hasn't been a picnic trust me. They set my house on Dec 18 th. The basement had 4-5" of ice in it. 30x52, that's a lot of ice.
Put my meter box on the house, inspector didn't like it. Replaced it and before i got the green tag to turn my power on we got a thaw and had 4" of water in my basement.
Builder built my walk in shower backwards.
Fun, fun.
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JimVonBaden
Well-known member
You plan on hiring a dozen 18 wheelers with 40' trailers?
CraigStu
Well-known member
I agree w/ others that a little bit of attention paid to grading, and a few shrubs here and there and you will have beautiful house when it's done. I would live in it for 6 months before doing anything to the foundation. If you paint it, you will have to keep fixing that paint every few years. Maybe a stain that soaks in and changes the color a little but doesn't have a surface layer. We are in the initial design stages of a new house. The builder usually does manufactured stone on the foundation. But since he knows we are already over budget, he offered to skip the stone. I couldn't say yes fast enough. So about 8 months from now I will be in a similar situation. Not worried at all. This will be one of those deals in the back of my mind and one day I expect to come across something that will do the job and not cost too much.
What do the drawings show??? Did they build it to plan or not??
It's a lot of work, but real stone can be split/cut to use as veneer. And, In my area is cheaper than the fake. Also consider, there are now companies that specialize in repairing failing 'stone' veneers due to some poorly manufactured products.
oo
Hilltopmasonry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2015
- Messages
- 2,168
Be a lot easier buying a real stone that is already cut for thin veneer. There are several manufactures but I will warn you that even though thin veneer stone is only an eighth of the material is just about the same price as full size stone.
Here is a real thin veneer that I just did in a basement. This is a halquest product
Most veneer stone failing is due to improper installation techniques
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Junkman
Well-known member
When I built my home, I wanted a 10 foot basement after the finished floor. Everyone, including the concrete contractor thought that I was crazy, but I was paying for it. 35 years later, I am still glad that I have the extra height in my basement, and the few steps to get into the home from the garage isn't a problem. I only with that I had more height in my garage, since I only have 11 feet. I could use an additional 3 feet so I could get the cars up on the lift a bit higher. When you are building, if you add a 10' x 10' overhead door, with a 14' ceiling height, there is nothing to regret later on, except for adding more square footage. Once it is done, you will appreciate the height. If the concrete sticking out of the ground bothers you, then put some fill up to it, and taper it down to grade. Tell us next year, if you still feel that it is too high... 
Caterpillar Cowboy
Well-known member
I agree. If you're afraid your garage is going to look like it's floating your attached house is floating too. I'd just do whatever you are going to do for your house.
byoung1219
New member
Just a few thoughts
With the foundation as is, I would think you would have to use a landing to turn the steps from the house towards the garage doors to keep from blocking the walk through door at the back.(taking away floor space )
My suggestion would be to raise the floor of your garage.
You might also want to use some sorta retaining wall to divert water away from your door openings, even if you raise the floor.
Just my opinion in what i see that would concern me.
With the foundation as is, I would think you would have to use a landing to turn the steps from the house towards the garage doors to keep from blocking the walk through door at the back.(taking away floor space )
My suggestion would be to raise the floor of your garage.
You might also want to use some sorta retaining wall to divert water away from your door openings, even if you raise the floor.
Just my opinion in what i see that would concern me.
Orionrising
Well-known member
remember theres no particular reason they cant carry siding down over the wall other then it would be annoying to do... are they insulating the outside of the garage?
SALIV8
Well-known member
That looks great.
I would put a front deck on that house, if budget allows.
Nice build. I wouldn't change anything. At least not until living there for a year or two.
I would put a front deck on that house, if budget allows.
Nice build. I wouldn't change anything. At least not until living there for a year or two.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm actually going to do the siding to try and save a little money, i under budgeted for the garage. They are going to wrap it. Ill start messing with siding once we are living there in a couple weeks. I'm trying to get things inside squared away. Mother nature held up our septic system so i was able to get the whole place painted.
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Not sure what I'm doing on the front. Going to build a 24x20-24 on the back. Haven't made a decision yet. Need the ground to dry up a little. Sunk to my knee the other day.
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wrenchguy
Well-known member
2 me looks like cluster of madness, why isn't grade being brought up? how many steps into the house from the garage. if grade was going to stay where its at why not put larger windows in basement.... u got over 9' ceilings down there for some reason i ain't figured out yet? it ain't because they hit shale. good luck... time well tell.
Grade will be brought up, need to get some fill but I'm waiting on a friend who digs for my highway department to bring it for free.
Cant bring it up much in the back because i already buried a propane tank in the ground so I didn't have to look at the ugly thing.
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pgreenwood
Member
Agreed. Based on what I can see, my objection would be to the rear garage door placement. (It's too low.) I would have planned to add fill in the garage and for the garage floor grade to be about 2 steps lower than the house floor grade; adjusting the exterior grading accordingly.
doctordirt
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 15, 2014
- Messages
- 492
Wall is not too high, it is the garage floor is too low. You needed more fill for proper drainage.