The steeple pullers? We’ve got a lot of vintage fencing pliers and tools. They’ve all been passed down from at least my great grandfather and we’ve got a box of them we still use to fix fence to this day. Hopefully I’ll pass them down to my son. There’s even some old Mac stuff in that pile.
Wow, that one with the E is definitely unique! I like it.Picked up these hammers this weekend. A couple of plumb 8oz ball peens 1 stamped US. A Stanley 4 oz and a unique head just marked with an E? She has some big cheeks! Before and after clean up and oiling
The Plumb looks like it’ll clean up better than the Handmade, given the crack in the handle. Hard to beat the cost of $2 each though.Picked up two more for $2 each.
First is a Plumb, it’s a little rough.
Next is the one I referenced earlier marked “Handmade”. No other marks, but it’s in pretty decent shape. I like it.
The plumbs face needs to be ground down. It’s pretty bad. The side is pretty beat too, that’s why you can’t see the rest of the logo, not that that matters as much.
Have you ever tried raw linseed oil?Picked up a Plumb 13 3/8 oz BP head today:
It's getting a new handle I picked up at a yard sale this summer:
The handle will get a nice sanding and some BLO tonight.
Now I gotta rearrange my hammer rack....
I'm patient, but not for that long.
I am going to try it just because. A rusty refurbished hammer. It was in bad shape. Rust removed and now it has a handle.
Yes, I do know the difference. I I just wanted to try the raw, I'm told that can penetrate deeper so I took a hammer I don't really need so I don't really care how long it takes. I have the blo, I just wanted to try the raw. See if those who think it is the best way. All right. I doubt if I'll be able to tell the difference apart from the fact that it will take a lot longer to finish the job.
I have never scorched a handle, and I don't actually know anyone who has. Meaning. I haven't seen one in person. I've seen it done online, but that's it.Better, but still blotchy.
Maybe a need a larger flame to uniformly scorch it? Anyhow, that's all for this handle as it's thin enough already.
The one I posted above is scorched pretty heavy, and then coated with a beeswax/BLO mix.
I had to ask my wife about it... Since are always Japanese and lived there for since years.
You did a crazy good job....A warning about the Estwing framer: It'll destroy your elbows if you use it for much nail-driving. We called them "Blue Bombs" on the jobsite and used them for demo. Wood handles are for framing.
Here's one I've had for some thirty years:
Cord wrap is mine. It greatly improves grip when the rubberish handle is wet. Having a heavy hammer fly out of one's hand on the jobsite is a good way to become unpopular real fast.
Lots of experience seizing ropework and building fishing rods.
I plan to use it for demo and fencing steeples and we don’t do either all that often. I’ve always used hand me down hammers that were usually pretty lightweight and smooth face so I was never good at driving nails. I tried it out driving nails today and it was nice to get solid hits with the milled face. I’m just a diy guy so the most I’ll probably ever use it is when I redo our shed. I definitely plan to get more hammers than this one though.A warning about the Estwing framer: It'll destroy your elbow if you use it for much nail-driving. We called them "Blue Bombs" on the jobsite and used them for demo. Wood handles are for framing.
Here's one I've had for some thirty years:
Cord wrap (seizing) is mine. It greatly improves grip when the rubberish handle is wet. Having a heavy hammer fly out of one's hand on the jobsite is a good way to become unpopular real fast.
