Hammer time!

[WWIIjeep]

Bringing this thread back from the dead...

I'll play. Here's a few you don't see every day:

Beryllium-copper non-sparking hammers and a hatchet too:

Couple of tire installation hammers, and a couple of little guys that snuck into the photo:

Proto 1448 top and Ken-Tool below it. The Proto also shows how I salvage split handles sometimes--open the split and glue it, wrap the full length of the split tightly with steel wire, wrap that with a layer of electrical tape, and heat-shrink tubing over that. Good as new (almost).



Couple of close-quarters hammers:

Top one was dad's. No idea if he made the handle or got it that way. I always thought it was cool, so made sure it went into my pile when we were dividing up the tools.

The other is a 12 lb sledge with a 15-1/4" handle. It's wise to avoid close quarters work where a 12 lb sledge with a 15-1/4" handle is needed.



Three that I've re-handled:

I'm always on the lookout for NOS hammer handles at yard sales, fleece markets, etc. Got a whole box full one time at an industrial auction. The two in the photo are at least 45 years old (and probably a lot older than that) because I know the company whose name is on the labels went out of business in 1967.



And my two favorite ripping hammers:

1960s Craftsman 16 oz top and 1970s Vaughan 20 oz bottom.

 

[nine4gmc]

here is my lil collection. as much of a hoarder as I am, I would be willing to barter some of these off for other tools I need. if anyone is interested in anything, just ask. this pic was taken just before I hit them with the wire wheel.

after the wire wheel.

this one is the only one marked US that I can find.

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice stuff WWIIjeep! I like the BE-CU hammers!

nine4gmc, what is the spiked body hammer?

If you re-handle he hatchet head, go for a longer handle. I always like a long handle on a hatchet as you can get more out of it with a swing when needed, but can still choke up other times. (I have a couple with 28-30" small ax handles)

 

[maddawg308]

That "US" marked one was probably in a military tool kit sometime in the several years. Doesn't add any value, really, but does add some history to the hammer. Pretty neat!

 

[Outlawmws]

That "US" marked one was probably in a military tool kit sometime in the several years. Doesn't add any value, really, but does add some history to the hammer. Pretty neat!

Actually it does, as there are very active Miltaria collectors. How much depends on rarity and demand of course. But compared to an "ordinary" hammer otherwise identical, definitely worth more.

 

[onewaydave]

Nice thread Outlaw.

Cross peen has also been called a Warrington (in woodworking, I think). Like others they come in a variety of sizes and styles.

Handles; Ash, Hickory, Pecan maybe others depending on your location. Make your own. Craftsmen in days gone by did and very little tooling is required, unless you "need" a new tool. Straight grain from one end to the other. Quarter sawn, align the grain so that looking at the ****, the grain goes up and down as the working surfaces are up and down. No finish, soak it with boiled linseed oil and save your self blisters.

I'm not a fan of stubby handles (well except for the hand sledge). I feel like my knuckles are about to do the pounding and it might hurt. JMO.

Black tape; Not always a repair, sometimes used to protect the handle from situations where an accurate blow might be less than accurate.

With one exception, I prefer wood handles. They are replaceable, making the hammer potentially a forever-tool. Asthetics, well in my eye. Shock that is felt at least in my hand. Infinately customizable in size, shape, texture, etc. My exception is the Stanley with a forged steel shank and the blue rubber grip. The handle is a little longer than other framing hammers of similar size. Mine is of an older variety and I sometimes wonder if there is some regulation in the specs for the rubber fhandle 'cause mine doesn't have a single divot out of it, compared to the disolving rubber/plastic products I've seen on others.

Now I get to ask a question. A local tool dealer (biannual flea market) refits handles and resurfaces faces and sells neat old hammers for current use. His faces are prime. I asked once how he did it and he said, "My lathe." He didn't seem willing to elaborate, even though I bought some tools from him. Can anybody suggest how one would set up the lathe to do this. Critical issues, AISI, are centering the face in the cutting axis and the correct angle of the face to the body of the hammer. Any suggestions would be welcome, if Outlaw deems this is appropriate enough to the topic. If not, I can start another thread.

One other suggestion, if Outlaw approves, is to show, discuss or otherwise elaborate on the way to use some of the less than obvious/common hammers. Eg, that upthread hammer with the long-skinny-pointed nose and flat head. I would imagine it is used as a anvile punch, but thats my imagination.

Again, great thread. Sorry about the long post (no I'm not), you can tell the subject means nothing, nothing to me (yes it does).

Dave, planning to contribute to the eye candy shortly.

 

[gbsmithy08]

So here is my ones that I use at home. I dont have pics of all my work hammers YET.
Just a few Blacksmithing Hammers,Chipping hammers,rock pick hammer, and a few others for everyday hammering.

 

[maddawg308]

Actually it does, as there are very active Miltaria collectors. How much depends on rarity and demand of course. But compared to an "ordinary" hammer otherwise identical, definitely worth more.

Yes and no. Take it from someone who has been in the militaria dealing and collecting hobby for 15 years. DATES MEAN EVERYTHING. I notice the sledgehammer pictured had a "92" date code on it. There isn't a ton of collectors for 1990s era surplus and equipment yet, so less demand equals less value (except for the value that it IS a nice hammer, after all). However, if a piece is dated "67" or "43", for Vietnam and WWII eras, respectively, you are very correct, you can keep adding $$$ signs to the value over a normal hammer.

 

[nine4gmc]

The spiked body hammer is marked MTM on top

and the bottom of the US hammer

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice thread Outlaw.

Cross peen has also been called a Warrington (in woodworking, I think). Like others they come in a variety of sizes and styles.

Handles; Ash, Hickory, Pecan maybe others depending on your location. Make your own. Craftsmen in days gone by did and very little tooling is required, unless you "need" a new tool. Straight grain from one end to the other. Quarter sawn, align the grain so that looking at the ****, the grain goes up and down as the working surfaces are up and down. No finish, soak it with boiled linseed oil and save your self blisters.

I'm not a fan of stubby handles (well except for the hand sledge). I feel like my knuckles are about to do the pounding and it might hurt. JMO.

Black tape; Not always a repair, sometimes used to protect the handle from situations where an accurate blow might be less than accurate.

With one exception, I prefer wood handles. They are replaceable, making the hammer potentially a forever-tool. Asthetics, well in my eye. Shock that is felt at least in my hand. Infinately customizable in size, shape, texture, etc. My exception is the Stanley with a forged steel shank and the blue rubber grip. The handle is a little longer than other framing hammers of similar size. Mine is of an older variety and I sometimes wonder if there is some regulation in the specs for the rubber fhandle 'cause mine doesn't have a single divot out of it, compared to the disolving rubber/plastic products I've seen on others.

Now I get to ask a question. A local tool dealer (biannual flea market) refits handles and resurfaces faces and sells neat old hammers for current use. His faces are prime. I asked once how he did it and he said, "My lathe." He didn't seem willing to elaborate, even though I bought some tools from him. Can anybody suggest how one would set up the lathe to do this. Critical issues, AISI, are centering the face in the cutting axis and the correct angle of the face to the body of the hammer. Any suggestions would be welcome, if Outlaw deems this is appropriate enough to the topic. If not, I can start another thread.

One other suggestion, if Outlaw approves, is to show, discuss or otherwise elaborate on the way to use some of the less than obvious/common hammers. Eg, that upthread hammer with the long-skinny-pointed nose and flat head. I would imagine it is used as a anvile punch, but thats my imagination.

Again, great thread. Sorry about the long post (no I'm not), you can tell the subject means nothing, nothing to me (yes it does).

Dave, planning to contribute to the eye candy shortly.

No clue how hes doing it on a lathe. when I reface a hammer I'm using a belt/strip sander. Against the support if flat, and on the unsupported part of the belt for curved surfaces.

No problem discussing anything hammer related in here as far as I'm concerned.

the spiked hammer (the one I was asking about?) is a body/sheet metal hammer.

No clue yet how the spike is utilized, but a lot of them are used and modified by the better body bangers.

 

[WWIIjeep]

the spiked hammer (the one I was asking about?) is a body/sheet metal hammer.

No clue yet how the spike is utilized, but a lot of them are used and modified by the better body bangers.

The spiked-end body hammers are called "pecking hammers." The pointy end is for "pecking" out small dents and the like, although in my hands, it's more like for putting in additional small dents.

Outlawmws, I was digging through my old hammer bucket (where I store all the basket-case hammers I've found until I get around to fixing them or forwarding the totally hopeless ones to the scrap bucket) and, knowing how much you like hammers with nails driven into the eye instead of proper wedges, I thought you'd like to see this one:

It's a shoulder-peen hammer that I threw in the bucket about 15 years ago and forgot about. I would have set it by my anvil for actual use if it hadn't been for the appendage on the top, which is obviously some kind of pipe fitting some idiot hammered into it in place of a wedge.

I finally decided to do something about it and removed the offending part, which turned out to be a ferrule-type hose-end fitting:

The handle fits pretty well, so I'll probably glue in a tapered wood plug, drive in a proper Grady wedge or two and call it good for now.

 

[nine4gmc]

was that a spark plug in there? LOL

 

[Outlawmws]

The spiked-end body hammers are called "pecking hammers." The pointy end is for "pecking" out small dents and the like, although in my hands, it's more like for putting in additional small dents.

Outlawmws, I was digging through my old hammer bucket (where I store all the basket-case hammers I've found until I get around to fixing them or forwarding the totally hopeless ones to the scrap bucket) and, knowing how much you like hammers with nails driven into the eye instead of proper wedges, I thought you'd like to see this one:

SNIP

That is probably what I would do with a spike hammer, more dents!

Gee, I'm guessing you have read my "How NOT to tighten a hatchet head on a handle... " Thread!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152785

 

[Outlawmws]

Actually I picked up another one over the weekend that needs the same/similar treatment:

Three nails and a screw...

it's a nice hatchet (Norlund) for a short handled version, and is likely to land in my "overnight" camp gear setup.

 

[Shoottx]

Just ran on to this thread, oh boy

So here is the small collection

Then the shop made hammer

Of course you could also use a bunch of wooden mallets

 

[maddawg308]

I don't have a hammer collection like you guys yet....but this thread sure has given me some ideas of stuff I need! Well, think I need....

 

[onewaydave]

Ok a few to start.

Framing hammers or all round utility carpenter hammers. Plumb & Vaughn 16 oz curved and straight claws, modern C'man little 10 oz. I prefer to use an octagonal handle. Others by the end of the day do too as a slick sweaty handle in my aged cramping hands can become a weapon of individual destruction.

The 2 on the left are unknown mfgr and are Warrington (woodworking cross peen). The middle is a shoemaker's hammer. I've abused it in the shop 'cause I don't make too many shoes and it gets used for other things. The face should be smothe and shiny. The one on the right and the head above it are tack hammers. The tips were magnatized to hold the tack to start the job without damaging the finger tips. Both need handles.

The left one below is a shop made (not by me) bench mallet for wood carving and chisel work. I think the head is elm and is often harvested from the base of the tree or even from the root ball. It isn't made to change the ball joints on a one ton PU truck but to prevent damage to the **** of a wood handled chisel (back in the days when chisels had wood handles). The one on the right is a leather mallet. I'd not seen one this big before. The head is about the size of a Coke can. I drink Coke is why I know this. The center one is just a cheap rubber mallet. The 2 following is a rant with a useless handle that can't be easily replaced.

Some common useful tools. A roofer's hammer, used at my place to split firewood from November through March 'cause I only have tin roofs and my forged froe broke and I haven't fixed it. Next a ball peen more of these to come), and a what?, cross peen hand sledge. I donno. Wikipedia shows a cross peen with a square face and with a round face.

And to close today's post, proper alignment of the wood grain to the hammer head, according to me (OMMV).

These were easily accessible in the shop. Please excuse the appearance of rust, my camera settings tend to find rust that is not visible to the naked eye, yet. Next, I'll go to the garage and get pics of a few more. They are all in the process of getting re-handled. Might talk a bit about how I do that.

Dave, the only 3 younger than me (61) are the rubber mallets and the C'man 10 oz.

 

[ZRX61]

I call mine Mjolnir

The other is a 12 lb sledge with a 15-1/4" handle. It's wise to avoid close quarters work where a 12 lb sledge with a 15-1/4" handle is needed.

 

[Man of Many Vices]

Those of you who live near or visit Los Angeles will be sorely disappointed at the Hammer Museum. There's not a hammer on display in the entire place. Turns out it holds a buncha art from a former oil tycoon named Armand Hammer. With the inauguration of this thread, Outlaw and Catsteve have "virtually" done what that billionaire could not. I'll ad my pix when I can figure out how to post 'em.

 

[Outlawmws]

Those of you who live near or visit Los Angeles will be sorely disappointed at the Hammer Museum. There's not a hammer on display in the entire place. Turns out it holds a buncha art from a former oil tycoon named Armand Hammer. With the inauguration of this thread, Outlaw and Catsteve have "virtually" done what that billionaire could not. I'll ad my pix when I can figure out how to post 'em.

 

[jeffmoss26]

I finally got a handle for this Plumb claw hammer:

Tonight I broke the handle on a ball peen hammer, time to order a new handle!

 

[WWIIjeep]

Tonight I broke the handle on a ball peen hammer, time to order a new handle!

Where do you buy your hammer handles, Jeff?

I think I'm going to order a few from McMaster. Tried a local hardware store that used to have a pretty good selection, now nada for hammers, just a few for sledges and axes. I've got a broken Craftsman claw hammer to take back to Sears for replacement (before they close their doors) so I might look there too. Once upon a time, Sears carried a pretty good selection of replacement hammer handles, but I haven't looked for a few years.

You guys are a bad influence (as if you don't know that). I've never worried about my hammers not matching. Rather, I've chosen them for balance and general feel, so there's a mix of brands.

I'm thinking of assembling a matched set of old Stanley ball peens for my home tool box:

So far, I've got 8, 16, and 24 oz. They're all older--probably 50s/60s. The 24 oz was pretty beat up and needed a lot of fine-tuning on belt sander and deburring wheel.

Then I've got these to re-handle too:

The top one is an antique. It's a C. Drew & Co. 21 oz coppering hammer. Made for nailing copper sheet to ship hulls or for copper roofing or siding on buildings.

The claw hammer doesn't need anything, I just put it in the photo. It's the hammer my mom kept in the kitchen "tool drawer" for years. It's at least 50 years old, because I remember it in the drawer when I was a kid. It's either a hardware store brand, or a dime store (Woolworth's) hammer. Can't read the label anymore other than to make out "forged" and "made in USA."

The tack hammer is an old Stanley. The small adze-eye has made it a challenge to find a decent replacement handle.

The ball peen is unknown brand. 8 oz., and with a very small eye for its size, so it's going to be interesting to see how well it balances.

 

[Outlawmws]

Get a small (4-8 ox?) claw hammer handle and shave it if needed for the tack hammer.

We are all probably headed for on line handle ordering sooner or later which I hate, as you are at their mercy for grain direction... That or star getting hickory blanks adn split out and shape our own... (I knew I wanted my frow for a reason...)

 

[WWIIjeep]

Get a small (4-8 ox?) claw hammer handle and shave it if needed for the tack hammer.

My thought too, but so far, I haven't found one small enough. McMaster has one for 7-10 oz claw hammers, but I'm betting the handle will be way too fat compared to the original handle.

We are all probably headed for on line handle ordering sooner or later which I hate, as you are at their mercy for grain direction... That or star getting hickory blanks adn split out and shape our own... (I knew I wanted my frow for a reason...)

That, or one of us (not me) can find and refurbish an automatic handle turning lathe. They oscillate, to make oval shapes, all the while playing havoc with your eyes if you happen to have astigmatism.

 

[jeffmoss26]

There are a couple local hardware stores that carry them. I've also ordered handles from Harry Epstein.

 

[metaldad]

yep. Epsteins. They carry House Handle, made in USA. And, the grain is correct. (thanks for that info, Outlaw)
and Jeff, you don't have spare handles?

 

[jeffmoss26]

Nope, I just get them as I need them. I do have one really small one in the drawer, ordered it with some others but it was too small for what I was doing at the time.

 

[metaldad]

Nope, I just get them as I need them. I do have one really small one in the drawer, ordered it with some others but it was too small for what I was doing at the time.

I had to look in my 'spare' box to get the name. I happen to have 5 in stock.

 

[WallynSC]

My thought too, but so far, I haven't found one small enough. McMaster has one for 7-10 oz claw hammers, but I'm betting the handle will be way too fat compared to the original handle.

Description: Machinist
Length: 8"
Grade AA: 2.30 Each
Eye Size: 5/16 x 1/2 (2 oz.)
UPC: 737184102083

How do you order on line? Measure the eye hole and guess from there? I have several small heads I need handles for but have no luck at local hardware stores. The above small ball pein is a copy/paste from House Handle web site.

 

[metaldad]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#contact/=j4821y

 

[Link-Belt]

Here is one that ironworkers call a Monday morning. Made in the USA 8lbs. ATHA. This thing is a bad mofo with the short handle and the 8lbs.head. I can't tell that it's ever been used.

Sent from my SCH-R720 using Tapatalk 2

 

[WWIIjeep]

Description: Machinist
Length: 8"
Grade AA: 2.30 Each
Eye Size: 5/16 x 1/2 (2 oz.)
UPC: 737184102083

How do you order on line? Measure the eye hole and guess from there? I have several small heads I need handles for but have no luck at local hardware stores. The above small ball pein is a copy/paste from House Handle web site.

By eye size, primarily. Also by length of handle and weight of hammer head when they give that information. Handles usually fit over a range of 2 or sometimes even 3 sizes of hammer heads.

Trouble is, handle size varies a little between manufacturers, and hammer eye holes aren't all the same for a given weight head over different brands, so you have to guess a little. Handles almost always need a little shaving and fine-tuning to fit. Usually not too bad with oval eye hammers, but with axes, hatchets, and adze-eye hammers, it can be a PITA and a lot of reshaping needed to get a good fit.

 

[Outlawmws]

By eye size, primarily. Also by length of handle and weight of hammer head when they give that information. Handles usually fit over a range of 2 or sometimes even 3 sizes of hammer heads.

Trouble is, handle size varies a little between manufacturers, and hammer eye holes aren't all the same for a given weight head over different brands, so you have to guess a little. Handles almost always need a little shaving and fine-tuning to fit. Usually not too bad with oval eye hammers, but with axes, hatchets, and adze-eye hammers, it can be a PITA and a lot of reshaping needed to get a good fit.

Mostly this.

Careful use of a belt sander can help for final sizing, and/or a strip sander. Once I had to size a 30" ax handle to fit a hewing hatchet head with a pocket knife, as we were camping at the time and we broke the old handle. That was fun...

 

[jeffmoss26]

I finally realized 'hey, we have a belt sander at work!' and it made putting the last handle on SO much easier...before I had chiseled/pared away the handles on a few others, quite frankly I did a crappy job...

 

[WWIIjeep]

I finally realized 'hey, we have a belt sander at work!' and it made putting the last handle on SO much easier...before I had chiseled/pared away the handles on a few others, quite frankly I did a crappy job...

Yeah, power is the way to go whenever possible.

Here's my machines of choice for handle fitting:

75 year old Delta 12" disk sander. Oh look, a couple of NOS axe handles on the right, waiting for use.

On the sander-grinder, I swap from wood sanding belt to metal grinding belt for renewing the chamfer on hammer heads, and other cleanup as necessary on some old hammers that have been beaten to death by previous owners.

I only use hand tools--chisel, mostly--for final trimming and fitting if necessary.

 

[Matt018]

I use craftsmans, They work good although i really want a snap on deadblow ball peen. Thats a harbor freight deadblow.

 

[metaldad]

Just rescued this guy. Hidden behind a motor control center, with a splintered handle.
Repaired with an Epsteins handle. Just need to dab a little epoxy in the head.

 

[Lkdelta]

if at first you don't succed, hit it again.

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice Channellock Metaldad! What weight is the head? I just got a Channellock 10 oz BP today (as well as a 20 oz or so Everkeen). Both from Flat.

Interesting,that is a very distinctive head style, and I took a look through the collection:

48 oz. No name, (Got this one from Bigcaddy)
20 oz, Everkeen
16 oz. Stanley
10 oz Channellock
8 oz Mac,
8 or 10 oz. Champion DeArment

So It makes you wonder, who swallowed who, and who is making the "newer" Mac and Channellock BP's?

I'm going to guess Stanley swallowed Champion DeArment, and made the rest on contract...

Edit: Dang, I guessed wrong; Champion DeArment became Channellock in 63, even though they had the Channellock TM for the pliers much earlier!

So does Channellock make the Stanley BP, or is it simply a ripoff?

 

[WWIIjeep]

So does Channellock make the Stanley BP, or is it simply a ripoff?

I don't know about now, but when The Stanley Works really was "The Toolbox of the World" instead of just another one of China's customers, most of their hammers were made by Atha Tool Co., a metalworking tool manufacturer purchased by The Stanley Works in 1913.

So, in all probability, Channellock's line of hammers originally came from Stanley-Atha.

The Channellock hammer that metaldad posted could be 20-30-40+ years old. I've only got one Channellock hammer, but it's the same red color, and I bought it new around 1968.