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Hein Werner OS

On-Wheel

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Bought a valve seal.Drained it and power steering fluid was real red from previous ATF that probably shrunk valve seal.Or initial bad install of seal? I won’t use transmission fluid again.Only hydronic floor jack oil from here on out.It says mineral oil with additives ,yellowish tint,on Hein Werner brand from amazon.Snake oil? Hehe
 
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paulsomlo

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Elroy's not being rude - he's just on "sabbatical"

I doubt that he even removed the overload - take Hiball's advice; leave it alone and see if it lifts. By the way, if the OS is like the WS, (and I think it is) there's no provision for over extension relief, like on other jacks. I guess the idea is that you'll be able to tell by feel, when the lift arm's reached the end of it's travel.
 

ALTEREGO

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I've been trying to rebuild a Hein-Werner Model WS for quite a while and I have a couple questions. Not sure if this is the best place to post (I don't wanna hijack someone else's thread, I'll be happy to post elsewhere/start new thread if that's better) but I figured I would start here.

Before disassembling the jack, it had a big leak (not sure from where exactly) and the jack would go up intermittently (not every pump would lift). When the jack was up, it was very difficult to lower it. Opening the release mechanism alone would not lower the jack as it should, it had to be pushed really really hard for it to go down.

* Safety overload valve:
The first 3 pictures below show the overload valve and screw on my jack, my question is, does it look right? and if so, should I mess with it at all? Elroy's pictures of his jack rebuild show a different type of overload valve screw that he ended up converting to something more like what I have so I wonder if someone may have installed the wrong screw on my jack (mostly worried about the size of the screw since I believe that would affect the safety overload capacity).
The overload screw was very tight, it was damaged and I had to carefully use a impact screw driver to remove it. My question is, given that the screw should be 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn loose, how would the screw being over-tighten affect the performance of the jack? and how it will affect the integrity of the valve and it's components (seal, spring, ball, etc)?



*Release Mechanism
Picture 4 below shows the release mechanism has quite some wear/damage most likely from over-tightening, which makes me wonder if the release mechanism is still viable? What would be the consequences of the damaged part on the performance of the jack? Also, is there a seal in between the two parts shown in picture # 5? Does the outer nut just unbolts from the threaded tube?

*Original Leather U-Cup
My last question is in regards of the leather U-cup for the ram shown in the last 3 pictures. When compared to the new U-Cup (no pictures of the new one, already in the ram sorry) it looks just a little bigger (swollen) which I believe is normal. The old one doesn't look marred, scratched, or damaged. Would it be worth keeping the leather U-Cup as a spare (specially given that the jack was so hard to lower)?


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paulsomlo

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What you're looking at, as far as the overload, is the top of a rubber plug. Under that, is the actual overload mechanism. The adjustment screw for the overload takes a special splined driver. The slotted head plug you've removed is just to close things up - it doesn't affect functionality. I would bother messing with the overload.

More to follow.
 

paulsomlo

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The only part of the release valve you need to be concerned with, is the tip of the needle valve and the seat. What you're showing in the picture, is inconsequential. There should be a metal thrust washer and a rubber washer in the assembly in picture 5 - I'd say one is missing from the looks of it. The assembly in pic 5 should just come apart - there's nothing threaded to anything.

Sure, hang on to that leather cup - you never know when you'll happen on another WS that someone's throwing away, and just needs a new cup.

Here's a link to the parts diagram for that jack: https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/heinwerner_ws_floor_jack_1.5_ton.pdf
 

ALTEREGO

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Thank you Paulsomlo for the quick reply! Just to make sure I understand correctly:

"What you're looking at, as far as the overload, is the top of a rubber plug. Under that, is the actual overload mechanism. The adjustment screw for the overload takes a special splined driver. The slotted head plug you've removed is just to close things up - it doesn't affect functionality. I would bother messing with the overload." That's what I thought, thank you for confirming. Just to make sure, you meant "I would not bother messing with the overload", correct?

"The only part of the release valve you need to be concerned with, is the tip of the needle valve and the seat. What you're showing in the picture, is inconsequential. There should be a metal thrust washer and a rubber washer in the assembly in picture 5 - I'd say one is missing from the looks of it. The assembly in pic 5 should just come apart - there's nothing threaded to anything." Are the two washer's you are referring to the same as #23 & #24 on the diagram (please see screenshot below)? That's precisely the seal (rubber washer) that I'm trying to replace, the reason I would like to separate the parts. I believe seal seats inside of the parts assembled shown on Pic # 5 which should be parts 22, 25 and 26 in the diagram. They are somehow "stuck" together, I thought they would be threaded one to another (22 and 26). I'll keep trying to separate them, any advice on how to do so will be greatly appreciated.

"Sure, hang on to that leather cup - you never know when you'll happen on another WS that someone's throwing away, and just needs a new cup."
As far as you can tell, you do agree with me that it looks in excellent condition?

Thank you again for all your help, I sincerely appreciate it!

View media item 100417
 

paulsomlo

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Thank you Paulsomlo for the quick reply! Just to make sure I understand correctly:

"What you're looking at, as far as the overload, is the top of a rubber plug. Under that, is the actual overload mechanism. The adjustment screw for the overload takes a special splined driver. The slotted head plug you've removed is just to close things up - it doesn't affect functionality. I would bother messing with the overload." That's what I thought, thank you for confirming. Just to make sure, you meant "I would not bother messing with the overload", correct?

Yes, I meant "would not".

"The only part of the release valve you need to be concerned with, is the tip of the needle valve and the seat. What you're showing in the picture, is inconsequential. There should be a metal thrust washer and a rubber washer in the assembly in picture 5 - I'd say one is missing from the looks of it. The assembly in pic 5 should just come apart - there's nothing threaded to anything." Are the two washer's you are referring to the same as #23 & #24 on the diagram (please see screenshot below)? That's precisely the seal (rubber washer) that I'm trying to replace, the reason I would like to separate the parts. I believe seal seats inside of the parts assembled shown on Pic # 5 which should be parts 22, 25 and 26 in the diagram. They are somehow "stuck" together, I thought they would be threaded one to another (22 and 26). I'll keep trying to separate them, any advice on how to do so will be greatly appreciated.

Yes, 23 and 24. I misspoke - 22 and 26 are threaded together, of course, trapping 23, 24, and 25. I suppose you could wrap a piece of leather around 26, secure it in a vise and put a wrench on 22, or find something square that will fit the hole on 26.

"Sure, hang on to that leather cup - you never know when you'll happen on another WS that someone's throwing away, and just needs a new cup."
As far as you can tell, you do agree with me that it looks in excellent condition?

Thank you again for all your help, I sincerely appreciate it!

View media item 100417

Happy to help.
 
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ALTEREGO

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Before I read your response, I tried to find something square to fit #26 but couldn't find anything. I tried using the needle valve but it is too tight and I don't want to risk damaging it. I'll try the leather/vise next, thank you again for the help!
 

Hiball

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I probably wouldn’t put the underside of the release in a vise, regardless if it’s wrapped in leather or not, You don’t want to fixing threads later. I would instead flip it 180 and use the big hex steel portion to clamp, then you will find that the inner part will unscrew fairly easily once you break it free. I have a big flat head screwdriver that fits corner to corner to aid in removing or I believe there is enough square to allow you to 50/50 in the hole and use a small adjustable or wrench.

Your next tip.. once you get that unthreaded, I’m assuming your wanting to replace the seal in the upper portion, Otherwise there is no reason to disassemble. Reinstall the nut (to protect the threads), don’t worry about the gear and then you can drive the center portion out the bottom. Normally a few whacks on a solid surface or anvil will get it started, then just remove the nut to push it thru.

The damage on the bottom side of the release is because the square shank on the release wasn’t seated inside the lower adjusting but prior to initially threading the hex into the block. Which is why there is a perfect hex imprint on the face.
 
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Hiball

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Before I read your response, I tried to find something square to fit #26 but couldn't find anything. I tried using the needle valve but it is too tight and I don't want to risk damaging it. I'll try the leather/vise next, thank you again for the help!

I would use a small file to clean up damage I referenced earlier from improper reassembly, it won’t take much but you can see the deformed metal on the flats of the square.
 
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Hiball

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What did Elroy use to get the strange adjusting screw out of the pump body??

My guess is he drove a socket onto the splined portion, if memory serves he ended up using a rotary tool to cut a groove into the head to accept a standard blade screwdriver.
 
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ALTEREGO

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Thank you Hiball! I will follow your advise. Knowing me, I would have destroyed the threads no matter what I wrap them on to protect it. Thanks for the "next tip" as well, I will do as suggested and report back asap (next weekend hopefully). By the way, did you have a chance to look at the picture of the leather U-Cup? Does it look too good to be the original? Worth using again? I ask because I have 2 other HW jacks that I will rebuild and most of the seals from this current jack look in really good shape so I may reuse some of them. The seals being in such good shape makes me wonder what was causing the jack to get stuck. I read some of your posts and if I understood correctly two of the main reasons for that are air in the system and damage/obstruction in the inner ram/cylinder. Hopefully the previous owner rebuild the jack and didn't purge it properly (unlikely) or allowed air to get in. I checked the inner ram and cylinder and they both looked nice and smooth. The jack did have a leak, maybe that's where the air got into the system...
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Hiball

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Thank you Hiball! I will follow your advise. Knowing me, I would have destroyed the threads no matter what I wrap them on to protect it. Thanks for the "next tip" as well, I will do as suggested and report back asap (next weekend hopefully). By the way, did you have a chance to look at the picture of the leather U-Cup? Does it look too good to be the original? Worth using again? I ask because I have 2 other HW jacks that I will rebuild and most of the seals from this current jack look in really good shape so I may reuse some of them. The seals being in such good shape makes me wonder what was causing the jack to get stuck. I read some of your posts and if I understood correctly two of the main reasons for that are air in the system and damage/obstruction in the inner ram/cylinder. Hopefully the previous owner rebuild the jack and didn't purge it properly (unlikely) or allowed air to get in. I checked the inner ram and cylinder and they both looked nice and smooth. The jack did have a leak, maybe that's where the air got into the system...
View media item 100408

1. Just for Clarity, it’s a leather Piston seal not a Leather Ucup.

2. Reusing Old seals? Personally Not a chance, My time is Valuable and I don’t want to be removing hydraulic units, ripping down reservoirs just to simply save a few bucks. When a leather piston seal fails, it’s generally from the inside near the base and it’s definitely a seal that can give you a catastrophic failure/pressure release. Generally when a Polyurethane Ucup goes bad they just harden and deteriorate, they “tend” to stay together and give you one last hoo-rah under load, as there isn’t really clearance to allow it to escape and when the pressure releases they crumble in bottom of the Ram. Then again that’s my opinion, I’ve never been inside a jack and witnessed a failure, but I have talked to a lot of people who have explained how the jack worked perfect under load and then minutes later was a dead stick only to find the Ucup in pieces.

3. Reasons that the HW Oboy jack could be getting stuck? Too much oil, the tank seal nut is too tight and putting too much squeeze on the rod which was done in a attempt to secure the leak. Generally if Air can get in, it can get out in sealed systems but overfilling them with oil can definitely cause problems.
 

ALTEREGO

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1.- Leather piston seal, got it! I knew I would get most of the terminology off, thank you for taking the time to teach me!

2.- Completely agree with you. I don't know what I was thinking, it makes perfect sense.

3.- I wish I had asked the question before so I could have troubleshooted the issue better. I would probably still had to rebuild the hydraulics but is fun to be able to pinpoint the culprit.

Thank you again for your help and for responding so fast!
 
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ALTEREGO

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Reporting back:

The kids went to sleep early last night so I was able to give it a try.

Placed the big hex (part #22) on the vise and used 50% of the square portion of the needle valve (#27) with a small adjustable wrench and... no luck!

That thing is really stuck! I will try again this weekend, hopefully I can find a larger square metal that fits in there, I don't want to risk damaging the needle valve. I socked the thread with liquid wrench, I'll keep doing that and I will use some heat if needed. It has to come out!

Once I replace that seal (#23 or #24?), the only thing I would have not touched/replaced would be the overload valve system and I'm ok with that. I'll keep you updated, thanks again for the help!
 

ALTEREGO

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I asked a friend to help me and we secured the hex portion to the vise. I bought a 5/16 key that fits pretty well in the square opening for the valve needle. I don't want to damage the valve needle, that's why we used the 5/16 key instead. It didn't work. The key twisted (bottom of the picture below). We used the back of a steel punch and... it did not work either.

We heated the parts and... still no luck. The rubber washer melted and you can see some of it coming out....but still no luck.

Is this a reverse thread? Lefty-loosy. righty-tighty? Any and all advise is welcome. Thanks!

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Hiball

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Hmmm... It’s been a day or two since I’ve had a OS apart, but I think I would remember if it was LH thread, I think Paul is right that it’s standard thread. I’ve never had any issues getting those two apart. I would try clamping the 5/16 key in the vice vertically and then sit the release on top of it and try to unthread the hex portion. I’m just spitballing, but it’s possible depending on how much clamping force you are applying with the vice, you could be fighting yourself.
 
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ALTEREGO

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Thank you Paulsomlo and Hiball! I'll keep trying, it has to come out!

UPDATE: Bad news!

I haven't been able to unscrew the 3 release valve components but I did manage to round the base of the release mechanism (picture below). Any advice on how to fix that? I'm waiting for a male valve plug socket to give it another try so it is very likely that it will get in worse shape by the time I'm done separating it but it has to come apart. The seal inside got destroyed when I applied heat to the parts and the valve screw won't rotate smoothly. I'm also afraid that if left as is some parts of the burned washer will contaminate the hydraulic fluid. How did it get so tight?!


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ALTEREGO

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How about inserting a washer (not too thick) at the bottom with a modified square orifice in the middle as the one in the picture below?

Will the added space prevent the valve needle to close or otherwise function properly?

Any other ideas?


View media item 101596
 

Hiball

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How about inserting a washer (not too thick) at the bottom with a modified square orifice in the middle as the one in the picture below?

Will the added space prevent the valve needle to close or otherwise function properly?

Any other ideas?


View media item 101596

I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, unless by chance the thread distance is too short. The release will have to clamp the washer in place for it work properly, maybe check with HPS in my signature for a replacement?
 

ALTEREGO

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I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, unless by chance the thread distance is too short. The release will have to clamp the washer in place for it work properly, maybe check with HPS in my signature for a replacement?

How about JB Weld or something like that to secure the washer in place? Will hydraulic oil dissolve the bond?

I didn't think HPS would carry Hein-Werner WS parts, I thought these jacks were obsolete. I will look them up online or give them a call. Thank you again Steven.
 

Hiball

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How about JB Weld or something like that to secure the washer in place? Will hydraulic oil dissolve the bond?

I didn't think HPS would carry Hein-Werner WS parts, I thought these jacks were obsolete. I will look them up online or give them a call. Thank you again Steven.

When the release is screwed into the block it will secure the washer, I believe HPS (Hydraulic Parts Supply) is pushing 80 years in the hydraulic world, they don’t have a online store, they deal strictly with walk ins and over the phone orders.
 

OnieH924

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How come my HS model WS that I am restoring did not come with the packing and washer showing in your picture when you dismantle the release valve box?
do i have to install one? Could that the source of the leak on the fly wheel area?
 

paulsomlo

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How come my HS model WS that I am restoring did not come with the packing and washer showing in your picture when you dismantle the release valve box?
do i have to install one? Could that the source of the leak on the fly wheel area?

Because someone has probably been in there before you, and didn't put them back in. The washer functions as a thrust washer, and the packing is what keeps the fluid in. Without that packing, I would expect it to leak.
 

Hiball

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How come my HS model WS that I am restoring did not come with the packing and washer showing in your picture when you dismantle the release valve box?
do i have to install one? Could that the source of the leak on the fly wheel area?

I figured I would respond here versus via Email.

I just want to clarify, You did dismantle the release assembly completely and drive the stem out. The stem secures the washer/seal up inside the assembly, but to answer your question. Yes, if you are missing the washer and seal it would cause oil to leak out the top end.
 

OnieH924

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I definitely dismantled the release stem valve. I was able to unscrew the big nut from the stop nut, pull out the release valve, the stud and the big hex nut, but I did not find any packing and washer inside, Also, I left the stop still screwed on the unit since I could reinstall everything back without unscrewing it. I saw from the post of Alterego that he had a hard time unscrewing it.
 
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Hiball

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I saw this kit for $35.0 at Ebay. Are these what I am missing? I have to buy the whole kit?

I’m not sure what that second piece is, I’ve never known a seal kit to include the thrust washer. It appears to be another piece of packing. It’s possible you might be able to fabricate a thrust washer. I don’t know the dimensions off the top of my head but It’s about as thick as the packing if memory serves. I’ll see what I have, or you can make some calls and do some price checking.
 

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Thanks Hiball. I really appreciate your help. If you can find one, or similar that will work, i am willing to buy it. I know a regular flat washer will not do, right?
 

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Thanks Hiball. I really appreciate your help. If you can find one, or similar that will work, i am willing to buy it. I know a regular flat washer will not do, right?

No Sir, A flat washer would not work. The replacement would need to be approximately the same thickness to compress the seal upon reinstallation. It’s possible that you might be able to get by with stacking them, but i would worry about how they would hold up over time.
 

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No Sir, A flat washer would not work. The replacement would need to be approximately the same thickness to compress the seal upon reinstallation. It’s possible that you might be able to get by with stacking them, but i would worry about how they would hold up over time.
Thanks for the info. I will let you know once I got the kit. I really don't have a clue how they look like. If not compatible, I will just return the kit.
 

ALTEREGO

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I definitely dismantled the release stem valve. I was able to unscrew the big nut from the stop nut, pull out the release valve, the stud and the big hex nut, but I did not find any packing and washer inside, Also, I left the stop still screwed on the unit since I could reinstall everything back without unscrewing it. I saw from the post of Alterego that he had a hard time unscrewing it.

Hi OnieH,

Actually, for me it was the other way around, I was having a really hard time getting where you are now. It was really hard to disassemble the big hex nut and stud. If you got that far I think it would be really easy to remove and clean the rest... not that I think it is indispensable but if you got that far...



View attachment 1039487
I saw this kit for $35.0 at Ebay. Are these what I am missing? I have to buy the whole kit?

I’m not sure what that second piece is, I’ve never known a seal kit to include the thrust washer. It appears to be another piece of packing. It’s possible you might be able to fabricate a thrust washer. I don’t know the dimensions off the top of my head but It’s about as thick as the packing if memory serves. I’ll see what I have, or you can make some calls and do some price checking.




I think I got a similar kit from eBay. If I remember correctly, Hiball is correct, that second piece is not the thrust washer for the release mechanism but a (second?) washer for the top nut/reservoir tube. I think the thrust washer for the release is considerable thicker than those washers.

Let me know if you need measurements, I have the release valve system laying around somewhere.

Would love to see pictures of your jack once you are done!


 

OnieH924

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Hi OnieH,

Actually, for me it was the other way around, I was having a really hard time getting where you are now. It was really hard to disassemble the big hex nut and stud. If you got that far I think it would be really easy to remove and clean the rest... not that I think it is indispensable but if you got that far...










I think I got a similar kit from eBay. If I remember correctly, Hiball is correct, that second piece is not the thrust washer for the release mechanism but a (second?) washer for the top nut/reservoir tube. I think the thrust washer for the release is considerable thicker than those washers.

Let me know if you need measurements, I have the release valve system laying around somewhere.

Would love to see pictures of your jack once you are done!


Hi Alterego. Gosh, you must be a mind reader!! I was just thinking about you, and wishing you could read my dilemma. If you can give me the dimension, OD, ID, thickness, that will help me alot to look around for one. The seller of the kit assured me they were the packing and washer. I even sent him the picture of the WS detail parts encircled posted by you #368.
You don't have any plan to sell it, right? If you do, I am here. Thanks.
 

paulsomlo

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The seller of the kit assured me they were the packing and washer. I even sent him the picture of the WS detail parts encircled posted by you #368.
You don't have any plan to sell it, right? If you do, I am here. Thanks.

I looked at the listing on ebay that corresponds to the picture of the kit you posted - it's for an "OS" model, not a WS. And the alleged thrust washer in that picture is not nearly thick enough, not to mention appearing to have some curvature to it.

The "WS" kit from that same seller does not include the thrust washer (I can't imagine it would).
 

ALTEREGO

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Hi Alterego. Gosh, you must be a mind reader!! I was just thinking about you, and wishing you could read my dilemma. If you can give me the dimension, OD, ID, thickness, that will help me alot to look around for one. The seller of the kit assured me they were the packing and washer. I even sent him the picture of the WS detail parts encircled posted by you #368.
You don't have any plan to sell it, right? If you do, I am here. Thanks.

Hi OnieH,

Hahaha not a mind reader at all! I don't even know why I checked on this thread, I haven't worked on my Hein-Werner jacks for a while because it is so hot where I live and I don't have AC in my garage.


I'm still planning on rebuilding my jack so I won't be able to sell you the thrust washer you need, I'm sorry.

What I would do if I was in your place is call Steve in Hiball's signature and ask if he has the thrust washer available, he might. I bought the nut for my WS that I damaged (see my previous posts) from him a few months back.

If he doesn't have it I would then look at the local hardware store or online (McMaster.com).

If you still can't find it, I would use multiple washers as suggested by Hiball.

I'm not sure how having multiple washers instead of one would affect the release valve function but if Hiball thinks it might, I would take his advice very seriously so I would keep looking for a spare jack for parts, it is surprising how many are still around.


I'll be happy to look for the thrust washer and provide the dimensions. I don't have a caliper but I can try to find one so the measurements are correct.

Hiball may beat me to it, but I'll try anyways. You may want to run my measurements by Hiball just to make sure. It is amazing all the knowledge he has on jacks, he is truly a great asset to this forum, can't thank him enough!

I'll get back to you with the measurements hopefully by next weekend at the latest.

Keep at it, you got this!


I looked at the listing on ebay that corresponds to the picture of the kit you posted - it's for an "OS" model, not a WS. And the alleged thrust washer in that picture is not nearly thick enough, not to mention appearing to have some curvature to it.

The "WS" kit from that same seller does not include the thrust washer (I can't imagine it would).



Hi Paul,

Funny that the seller's kits have different parts for the WS and OS, I thought the replacement kits were interchangeable, am I right?

 
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