Help Me Build My First Work Benches

[Just F Me]

Hello long time reader and I'm jealous at how handy so many members are.

I need a work bench for my garage bad. I have a rigid shop vac that's in one corner, a ryobi compound miter saw that's in another corner, a 3 gallon air compressor, and small ryobi router table.

I want to build a table keeping the following goals in mind…

1) Keep all the tools in an area that makes it easy to use (rather than going to each corner of the garage to fetch what I need)
2) Build a table that I can work on, rather than cutting stuff on the ground. Hopefully with this done, I'll get to use these tools to build more things.
3) Build something that has many uses. I have no work table right now.
4) More storage space.

I drew this up in SketchUp, which is a free app. I have ZERO previous CAD experience, however, it took me about 30 minutes to figure out how to use this program. It's pretty easy.

Any suggestion to the design is welcomed. Or maybe you made your workbench and would do something differently.

The table on the left, with the holes on top, I tried to copy Festool's MFT3 table. The holes are 1 inch in diameter, and it's "suspended" 3/4" up from the lower table surface since the top one is a sacrificial piece. Any advice on this would be helpful. The size was a 42" x 28", which is kind of odd (tried to be as close to Festool's size as possible but also keeping the space I have in mind). The holes aren't spaced apart perfectly. It's 3 inches apart horizontally and 4 inches apart vertically. Do you think this will be a problem in the future?

Both tables are 42" W x 28" L, I plan to put caster wheels on it, which should raise the table about 5 inches. Total height of the tables I hope will end up around 34"

I want to have my compound miter saw "floating" between the two tables, which will give me a lot of space on either side.

FRONT VIEW

TOP VIEW

3/4 VIEW

My Ryobi router table should fit perfectly in that slot and it will become apart of the surface…is this a good idea? I'm probably going to redesign this so that the platform that the router table is sitting on, will be supported left and right rather than "floating" and held together by screws. Again..good idea? no? I will need to also design some pull out drawers for the router table on the right and left side. Still need ideas on for that...

Questions I have:
1) What wood should I use to make the tables?
2) How should i screw everything together? I was going to buy a Kreg Jig and use pocket screws for everything.
3) More things that I haven't thought of….

Once I get the design finalized, I'll was planning on going out and buying the Makita track saw as I don't have room for a table saw. Anyone have experience with this tool?

Thanks for your comments and advice.

 

[michaelbt2]

My biggest issues I've run into is the lack of shelving in my garage. I have a similar setup to what you're proposing. But I have very little shelving. This results in me organizing my small "junk" into those clear shoe cubbies and stacking them. It works but it's not pretty. So, I'd recommend putting shelving brackets in the larger spaces to accommodate more "stuff."

 

[Gizmosity]

Very ambitious and very do-able.

My gut says these things:

Kraig jig would work. I'm not a fan. I use Fuller tapered countersinks. I've found it faster and less hassle to just drill and screw boxes together using easily obtainable and cheaper screws.

3/4" plywood. I've used MDF for some stuff and painted it, but it splits when screwed and pinned. Ive gotten around that by milling grooves and dados to house horizontal members....but that's a PITA.

At over 8' long you should consider mounting your chop saw to a "box". Make a box with a back then screw that box to the two large boxes. Same idea you have, just stronger. I would imagine that the way you have that single piece of material connecting it all together will not be sufficient when shoving that whole assembly around while loaded up.

With your current cabinet depth, Plywood is going to be SPENDY. Cut the depth to under 24" and you will double your usable material from each sheet.

If you currently have nothing, I would do a bit of scrounging on CL. I was in a similar situation not that long ago where I had *Nothing* to work on. A $50 bill and 60 minutes later and I had a 10 foot long bench with adjustable legs and a lower shelf shoved up against the wall. It certainly depends on what is available affordably when you need it, but a couple old tear out kitchen cabinets can be had pretty cheaply and they come with doors and drawers.

I have no personal experience with track saws. I have several friends who have them. One has a Makita that's several years old. He has nothing bad to say about it.

 

[Tyberius]

It looks like you could make most of it out of recycled kitchen cabinets. I'd try to find 5 or six lower cabinets and start cutting up those.

 

[Just F Me]

Thanks for your advice Gizmosity.

This is a good tip about the screws. I just thought of the Kreg Jig because I saw another member build some really nice stuff with it. Super clean to not see the holes. Then again, he was building cabinets for his kitchen. I had no idea they were special screws.

I thought about building this out of 3/4 plywood but also maybe 3/4 Melamine to save money. I wonder how well that would work? Maybe just put it all together with some simple screws?

Because I've never had a work bench, I'm not sure how deep I should make it. I choose 28" because I just copied the FESTOOL MFT3 depth roughly and it does give me a bit more room. Price is important, however, it's also not too important. I figured if I had to spend $300 - $400 on this project, I would be OK with it. I don't have the room for a table saw and that's why a track saw seemed very appealing to me and that's another $400 purchase. I was also going to buy some new Lithium Ion drills because my old Ryobi ones stink because the battery weighs a ton and it doesn't hold a charge anymore.

 

[Gizmosity]

I'm just old and crotchety. I don't like the Kreg jig. In...damn...30 years... I have never really run into a situation where I needed one enough to stock up on all the Kreg screws and deal with the forces and headaches that come from screwing things together at a non 90 degree angle. I have at least one at school so I've used them at work as a demo to students of how to set them up, etc, but I won't own one myself. To each his own.

Spanning more than 36" with plywood will give you some bow. 3/4" Melamine will need additional support on the base to span anything approaching 36" if it's going to be freestanding/on casters. I found some red Melamine some years ago and built a 72" long toolbox with it. I had to set it on a 2x6 frame and attach the casters to that in order to get it solid enough for the doors and drawer openings to stay square, making it 1-1/2" taller than I planned....looked cool though and it was only $8 a sheet.

Melamine is a choice. It wouldn't be my last choice, but it's close.

Just make the top as wide as you want and make the bases 23-3/4"?

I say "Go for it". You're going to learn a lot regardless of which way you go.

Personally, I'd drop $100 on some CL finds and **** around with making it do what you think you want. Change it around, screw some stuff up, add to it. I guarantee what you think you want will change 8 times before you start building something, using the CL finds to actually build the new bench on. Out here I see kitchen cabinets in the "Free" section all the time. Nothing to lose.

I'm also really headstrong and totally understand going head first into your build and making what you want, how you want, using the material you want.....but you asked and I'm avoiding going outside...it's too damn hot.

 

[jethro29]

you do not want to put your compressor in an enclosure,it will get to hot.you shouls have atleast 3 feet of open space around it.it is air cooled.

 

[Matt The Hammer]

Your sketch is beautiful.

Your actual build will vary. Not that it's a bad thing. You'll make adjustments and the like as you go. I used varying materials to build what I have.

You said that you have limited storage now. This bench - ANY BENCH - you build will have stuff on top of it. It happens. I wouldn't use the mesh surface top myself. Just use a 3/4 plywood. I used maple for mine. It wasn't much more than regular sanded plywood cost. Plus its harder wood.

You may want to look at building nesting work tables. I find that if I can put a work surface away, it stays clean for when I need to use it. The rest of the time things get left on it and I spend too much time cleaning the workbench off before actually doing the work I wanted to do.

 

[bczygan]

What is your skill level and experience with building finish cabinetry?

I ask because your questions indicate this is new for you.

Taking on an advanced project like this without a well tuned table saw, and the experience to go with it, is problematic. I wouldn't do it.

Instead, there are 2 options you might consider.

First, you could build a bolt together bench with a heavy top. Something rougher than what you show. Something open on the bottom. Something where the dimensions aren't so critical. Something general purpose, and not so specific as your sophisticated design.

I'll get back to the details of this in a minute.

The choice I would make is to buy something used and ready made off of CL.

You just need a bench to work on. Any sturdy and decent bench will do. Metal industrial legs, or wood legs, a wood or even a metal top. 2'x6' or 2'x8'. Something like that. Store the shop vac under it in a cardboard box (To keep the dust off) if you like. Then you can start acquiring tools and do small projects to begin with.
Work your way up as you acquire tools and experience. I know some of the benches on this forum are fantastic. But some of these guys have been building things for 50 years.

That's what I would do. In fact, that's what I have done.

Now, back to building a bench for yourself.

I would still build a simple, general purpose bench. 2x4 frame, plywood top, plywood sides and back. With the lumber frame for strength, the cutting of the plywood wouldn't be so critical. 22"x96" for the top. 20"x90" for the base cabinet. 38" from floor to top of the top.

You could even build it from OSB and put some hardboard on top of the top for a smooth surface.

What do you think?

Bill

 

[Just F Me]

you do not want to put your compressor in an enclosure,it will get to hot.you shouls have atleast 3 feet of open space around it.it is air cooled.

as far as the air compressor, that's just a place to store it. Right now, it's stuck in a corner and every time I get it, I have to move 3 things to fish it out. Hopefully with it under the work bench, I can just pull it out easily.

Your sketch is beautiful.

Your actual build will vary. Not that it's a bad thing. You'll make adjustments and the like as you go. I used varying materials to build what I have.

You said that you have limited storage now. This bench - ANY BENCH - you build will have stuff on top of it. It happens. I wouldn't use the mesh surface top myself. Just use a 3/4 plywood. I used maple for mine. It wasn't much more than regular sanded plywood cost. Plus its harder wood.

You may want to look at building nesting work tables. I find that if I can put a work surface away, it stays clean for when I need to use it. The rest of the time things get left on it and I spend too much time cleaning the workbench off before actually doing the work I wanted to do.

"your actual build will vary" - LOVE IT! This will be my first time tackling this kind of job on this scale. I would like to say i'm decently handy and I'm mechanically inclined as I work on all my own cars and motorcycles.

What do you mean by a nesting table?

What is your skill level and experience with building finish cabinetry?

Bill

My skill level with cabinetry is 0. However, I'm fairly handy. I don't want one of those benches that are just put together with 2x4s. I guess I'm looking for a challenge, and I'm very much OK with learning and cutting twice if i have to (of course I'll be measuring 3-4x just to make sure I do make my cut).

I'm looking have more than just a work bench and I'm not looking for the easy way. I would like to use this as a learning experience for my next projects as well. This is simple enough in my opinion and if it doesn't look the best, well…it's in the garage so that's no big deal.

I made some edits to my sketch and color coded it. All panels with the same color obviously are the same size. I know…I flipped the tables…but it's not a big deal right now, just a preliminary drawing. Though if I do build this, I'll put the table with the holes on the right side as it is in this second drawing.

This SketchUp app has been awesome to use and to visually see things before I build it. I wouldn't even try to do this project without having this 3D rendering. My drawing skills for simple shapes and visualizing things on paper stinks. This CAD program has made it a dream to build/measure/design

 

[KEH]

You may have mentioned it, but I'm lost on the reasons for the holes in the top.

Having a sacrificial top is a good idea. 1/4 inch masonite is the traditional choice.

If you are going to do woodworking projects you need a strong top you can beat on, even if not directly. Ideally a top 1 1/2-2 inches thick is needed. It appears you are going to buy all new materials so, due to cost, your options are limited. A butcher block type top from Lowes, or other store would be ideal, but do what you have to do.

2 x 4 framing with plywood sheeting will make an adequately strong bench, as you have illustrated.

If you are building woodworking projects, a low assembly table is helpful. Imagine you are building a blanket chest, for example, or a desk, so you need something to get the work high enough to be comfortable to work on. The workbench will be too tall for that. I found a low coffee table made from solid oak in a used furniture store. Its 2 inch thick top has been ideal. Others have suggested CL. I would also check out the Salvation Army stores for cabinets and tables. There is nothing wrong with buying furniture for the wood content and cutting it up to suit your needs.

KEH

 

[WatsonComeHere]

1" Holes in the top may be a problem when it comes to finding dogs/pegs to fit. Most of what I have found are either 3/4 or 20mm (which is what the festool table uses). I had an aluminum template cnc'd with 20mm holes 96mm on center. Used that to make my workbench top.

The center section is removable and the miter saw and the router table can be inserted there where the top is.

This is my version of the Ultimate Tool Stand.


The template:

Also for a beginner (as am I) Grizzly makes a less expensive track saw that can get you started for about $250. I'm not saying it is on Festool's level as far as quality is concerned, but It works very well for me, and it wasn't north of $600 either. I broke down three sheets of MDF with it and everything was dead on.

 

[Alexbn921]

Hi
A couple things to think about with your build.
1. If you want it portable with wheels it will move around on you unless you have some kind of jack to lift it off the wheels.
2. The floor is never level, so some kind of leveling feet will be needed.
3. Having it in two pieces will make it a PITA use as an out-feed table. The pieces will shift and not line up.
4. 24" deep will save a ton of money on material.
5. Build a box around the back of your miter saw to catch the dust. There are tons of ways to do this on the internet.
6. Having holes on one side will make it almost unusable for other projects with small pieces. You could have it 3/4 of an inch lower then the other side and place a piece of ply over it with pegged to hold it in place.

I have built mine from scrap in a day. 2'X8' with a drop in spot for the cop saw. Make it all one piece and stronger then you think it needs to be.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=224321

 

[Just F Me]

OK…I'm gonna take you're guys notes and design a 24" table and let's see what I can come up with. I think the design will be similar…

Maybe on the table with the holes, I'll just make half it it have holes?

 

[Just F Me]

2 x 4 framing with plywood sheeting will make an adequately strong bench, as you have illustrated.

I actually don't have any 2x4's designed into this unit. I was considering making it all plywood.

Hmmm…well…everyone's advice is the whole reason why I started this thread to try and figure out what to do. Thanks!

 

[ez-duzit]

With no design or woodworking or cabinetmaking experience, you are trying to create a complicated workbench that you may later find to be of little use. You don't need a CAD program to play with. Just place a hollow core door on top of a pair of sawhorses or rollaway base cabinets. Bingo! Workbench.

 

[Gizmosity]

I actually think the new 3D software makes a HUGE difference in being able to visualize how things will go together. Keep designing. I spent years sketching ortho views making sure Id thought of everything only to reach a point in my build when the air completely left my sails....face palm....it happens.

It's obvious you WANT to acquire the tools to build this bench and you want to gain experience.....nothing wrong with that. I would gain a little experience on something smaller and cheaper but I often don't take my own advise either.

There is nothing particularly difficult with building what you have designed...IF......you have the ability to measure accurately,cut accurately and assemble accurately.

You understand measurement, obviously. Don't forget about the saw kerf. Don't lay out more than one cut at a time. ( I see this all the time so I'm just mentioning it). Check your diagonals. Don't assume for a second that a drywall square is remotely square enough to do your layout. Also compare your tape with any other layout tools you're using.....they can be quite different. Check your tape and make sure the distance from the 'hook' to the 10" mark is the same as the distance from the 10" to 20" mark. Mark with a 'V' rather than tick mark. The point of the 'V' should precisely line up with your measurement.

At the very minimum, I would strongly suggest you have a pair of sturdy sawhorses with some pretty straight 2x4's (4 of them) spanning them if you're going to use a tracksaw or a circular saw and straight edge. You need to support the material you're cutting and the material you're cutting off. Pay really close attention to which side of the line you're cutting on. Don't cut off your fingers. Don't laugh...I've seen it happen...more than once.

Use the sawhorses and a piece of plywood over the 2x4's to assemble on. Spend a bit of time trying to make it as flat and level as possible. The only assembly issue out of the ordinary is the 10-1/2" internal space on your "router table" cabinet. You may have to screw the mid-panel to the inner sides before the ends go on. I doubt your drill will fit in there.

Remember:

"The sign of a craftsman isn't found in the product he makes. It's how he hides his mistakes."

Have fun, be safe, make sawdust, gain experience.

 

[Just F Me]

With no design or woodworking or cabinetmaking experience, you are trying to create a complicated workbench that you may later find to be of little use. You don't need a CAD program to play with. Just place a hollow core door on top of a pair of sawhorses or rollaway base cabinets. Bingo! Workbench.

Thanks for the kind words of encouragement????

I think you're missing the whole point of this. Maybe even the whole website? I don't do things half ***. I want to build, I want to learn, and quite frankly, I want to make mistakes so that I can learn even more (without cutting off my finger)

A saw horse and a door gives me a work bench and that's it. Zero experience. Zero problems that I have to deal with.

If I end up building a POS and it falls apart, you can bet that I'm going to still post my piece of junk on this website for everyone to look at. You might laugh, but, in my opinion, I hope the feedback that people will give will be more like "you really should have done this instead, try doing this, this and this and you might be more successful."

I'm not posting and asking questions to find "what's the easiest way to do this" or else I'd just go pay someone to build something for me or go buy something off the shelf. I like to spend time in my garage, and if this thing takes me 50 hours and $400 in wood when it should have been 25 hours and $200 in wood, then so be it.

I've seen lots of positive on this website, and the negatives are more constructive criticism rather than flat out "you just built a POS"

 

[67carl]

I noticed you mentioned the Festool track saw and it's cost. I have a table saw but rarely use it, partially because I don't have a lot of space so it's "packed" away and moving stuff around to get at it is a pain and partially because I don't have an extension table to use when cutting larger stock (space issue again). I've been cutting 4x8 sheets of OSB for my workbench surface underlayment using my circular saw and a straight edge. This seems to work really well and somewhat does what a track saw does for a lot less $, but takes a little more time to measure and set up. Just thought I'd mention it as a method you could use for long, straight cuts. Just find something with a straight edge and use clamps to hold it in place. You can even buy one for cheap - something I keep meaning to try but haven't got around to yet - like this one:

http://t.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html

 

[Matt The Hammer]

I actually think the new 3D software makes a HUGE difference in being able to visualize how things will go together. Keep designing. I spent years sketching ortho views making sure Id thought of everything only to reach a point in my build when the air completely left my sails....face palm....it happens..

I build highways and bridges and all. The contractor will use a simple program like Google Sketch all the time. Mind you the state pays millions of dollars to have engineering firms develop everything. Then when we're building it, simple tools are then used to fix million dollar issues.

Nesting tables:

Not so much this exactly (obviously) - but a table that is then easily removed or tucked away so that it's out of the way and not an easy spot to drop stuff.

I use a rolling work cart that I made a spot for under my bench.

 

[Krash Kadillak]

I'm following this one.....

I'm in the process right now of planning / building my own workbench. Similar requirements as yours. I want a recess for my miter saw. I want to be able to use it as an outfeed for my table saw. I want it to be sturdy. I want it to be portable. It will have 3" casters and a drop-down 'foot' to level it when I set it up in the middle of my sloping garage floor. My construction will be mainly 2x4's, with 2 layers of 3/4 ply + 1/4" tempered hardboard for the top. It will not be an 'open' design. Not sure how I'm going to do doors and panels yet.

You're waaaay more advanced at Sketch-Up than I am. I kind of gave up on that.

Good luck with your build.

Marshall

 

[BikerDad]

Use 3/4" holes, not 1". 3/4" is the standard for dogs, holddowns, etc. If you do 1" holes, EVERYTHING will have to be custom.

I don't see a toe kick. There's a reason you kitchen cabinets have a toe kick, and it ain't so the dropped Cheerios can hide. Any workbench should provide the same utility. (Never mind, I just saw the reference to casters. Measure the TOTAL height of the casters. 5" casters means 5" diameter wheels.)

You reference "tables", which I assume are the two separate cabinets. Are you planning on building them as cabinets that are separate, and you just drop the miter saw in when you use it, or is this going to be assembled into a single unit like WatsonComeHere's? If it's going to be a single unit, you WILL rip it apart moving it in short order. You'll need more than a single horizontal shelf (the miter saw shelf) to keep those two cabinets together when you move it. Heck, with only that little shelf, the thing is liable to flex when stationary during normal use.

Both Wood Magazine and Shopnotes have done multiple examples of workbenches of the sort you envision. I encourage you to pop over to their sites and check them out.

 

[Alexbn921]

I don't think anyone is tiring to put you down, its just that we all struggle with beta builds. It usually takes a couple of times to get something right.
One thing to keep in mind is that the out-feed tables need to connected together for good consistent cuts.
Check out these builds
http://tcs-knox.com/MyWorkbench.htm
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/w...-look-at-our-full-featured-miter-saw-station/

 

[ez-duzit]

...I think you're missing the whole point of this. Maybe even the whole website?...
quite frankly, I want to make mistakes...

Well, in that case, you're rolling!

Let me rephrase: You know nothing about designing or building in wood--don't even know how to fasten it together. Yet you want to start out with a complicated workbench, of your own design, that you think will be just ideal. Look at what professionals use for workbenches, and rethink your project.

 

[aka Larry]

I'm surprised at all the hate on using the Kreg jig for pocket holes. They are super simple to use (great for a novice woodworker), and make a really strong joint.

 

[wnstwolf]

Having gone down this road before I can say I see two thing that will come back haunt the design.
Looks like your overall length of workspace is 8-9’ sorry can’t read the fine print. You have the miter saw in the middle. Not knowing what is at either end of your bench, open air or walls, you limit length of wood you can cut. I solved this with one of my best woodworking tools as far as gets used the most. My Dewalt compound miter came with a free stand. Awesome!

Second is the router table for the same issues above. Solution here is the find just one kitchen cabinet out there on c-list and turn it into a portable router station with locking casters. Pull it out when needed and you can run nice long items on it without the danger of running out of work space and either killing the work piece or hitting a wall and looking away and possibly doing damage to you.

 

[ez-duzit]

Examples of professional workbenches (yeah, they're ugly):

A solid core door, covered with tempered Masonite, serves as out-feed table to my radial arm saw, principal table saw and router/shaper. It is also a strong and solid workbench, supported all along one long edge with an angle iron hung off the table saw/router/shaper. One end is supported by a shelf unit. An intermediate 2x4 leg supports the rest. A woodworkers vice keeps the top clear.

A 4'x8' workbench serves as out-feed table to my secondary double table saw (1 with rip blade; the other with 1/2" dado). Same replaceable tempered Masonite. It rests on a heavy timber frame which allows space for 2 rollaway cabinets (less casters) and a large, open shelf on the other side.

The tops of workbenches want to remain clear, not have equipment and machinery sticking up and cluttering their tops. No holes all over the place through which to loose small parts and collect debris.

To use a chop saw, you just set it on the workbench and use a pre-cut block of wood, the same height as the chop saw table, to support the end of your workpiece. So simple. No computerized drawings necessary. And the workbench is useful for ALL your projects.

All you need is a big flat surface to work on!

 

[Gizmosity]

Examples of professional workbenches (yeah, they're ugly):
All you need is a big flat surface to work on!

That's fine for the way *You* work, (actually the way WE work) but that's not what he's after. He stated he doesn't have room for a tablesaw. Showing solutions specifically geared for a tablesaw doesn't really help him.

Those holes you don't like are all the rage with the cool kids these days and their track saws...they're necessary for clamping.

The Paulk Bench is a good example. His incorporates a portable table saw, but it doesn't have to.

I like your set-up. It shows you spent a great deal of time learning what works for how you work. He's coming from a completely different angle.

 

[KEH]

"...I actually don't have any 2 x 4s in the design..." My bad, didn't notice that. I would prefer 2 x 4s at each corner of the tables.

KEH

 

[Just F Me]

OK folks…I hope to have something drawn up by tomorrow up and again would love your feedback. Maybe this will be the first Garage Journal social media built workbench ? It'll be our group project.

I hope it turns out awesome!

 

[ez-duzit]

...Those holes you don't like are all the rage with the cool kids these days and their track saws...they're necessary for clamping...

The holes and clamping are completely unnecessary with the Festool track saw; the track stays put with very little pressure. I found mine on c/l for $350.

The workbenches I showed are only incidentally related to table saws. One actually attaches; the other does not. My point was that real, working workbenches are generally not fancy affairs that require computers and committees to design.

When you've never done it, before, it may seem like you need a custom made workbench to help get you through the daunting tasks of running a router and cutting wood to length, especially at an angle! But then, if you actually do some work, you discover that what you really need is unobstructed space.

 

[LeeG]

I built almost every cabinet in my shop using a Kreg jig for the joinery. If you don't want to put out the money for a track saw, then use a standard circular saw with a good blade and build something like this.

I built almost every cabinet in my shop (see overview in my sig) using a Kreg pocket hole jig. It was fast, strong, and only required me to have two clamps. I would clamp two boards in place with glue on them, drive in the pocket screws, then remove the clamps and do the next joint. No waiting for glue to dry, and very strong joints.

I modeled most of my cabinets off the information in Tom Clark's excellent book Practical Shop Cabinets. It takes very little experience to build good cabinets. I built all of mine in the first year I had my shop. Just be careful and take your time.

It doesn't take much for tools either. A saw that can break down sheet goods accurately, a drill, a couple of clamps, screws, and glue.

I used 3/4" Baltic birch plywood to build mine, but even the hardwood veneered plywood from the Borgs would be fine. I used inexpensive 24" 100lb full extension drawer slides (similar to these) for the drawers (I personally don't care much for cabinets. Too easy for stuff to get lost in the back).

Good luck and have fun.

 

[rick carpenter]

Good plan. I'd say definitely go with the suggestion that the cms be mounted on its own box, and have that box on casters too. And figure out a way to bolt the three boxes together when working and be able to easily unbolt them when moving them around.

Have fun!

 

[turbowoodworker]

Greetings Just F Me. After reading all the input on your design and everyone's chiming of how THEY would do it I was struck by your user name. I think it has a different meaning but for this thread it should be Just FOR Me.
It's your bench and it seems well engineered. Go for it and let us know how it works in practice...where the rubber meets the road.

 

[bczygan]

I actually don't have any 2x4's designed into this unit. I was considering making it all plywood.

Hmmm…well…everyone's advice is the whole reason why I started this thread to try and figure out what to do. Thanks!

This is a good place to discuss methods of creating boxes. Most cabinet work is just making boxes. Most architecture and construction is too, for that matter.

If you want to make a box, or cabinet, out of plywood or even solid wood boards, without a frame, you need enough thickness to be able to make adequate connections where the panels meet. Depending on the panel material and thickness, this can be problematic. Typically, the panel ends up being thicker than necessary for structure, simply to get enough thickness at the joints.

If you look at manufactured furniture, dressers for instance, they solve this problem by using interior framing and thinner panels. This keeps weight down while strength is maintained.

I've designed, and had built by a cabinet shop, a whole house of furniture out of plywood with laminate surfaces for easy cleanup. It was VERY heavy because of the thickness they needed to use.

So there is a point where you have to decide whether to choose lighter weight or heavier. It will help determine the structure.

 

[Just F Me]

Greetings Just F Me. After reading all the input on your design and everyone's chiming of how THEY would do it I was struck by your user name. I think it has a different meaning but for this thread it should be Just FOR Me.
It's your bench and it seems well engineered. Go for it and let us know how it works in practice...where the rubber meets the road.

Just F Me actually refers to my car, but also I guess I leave it up to whatever the current mood of F may be. Could mean Fun, Fantastic, Freak, Forget, Fu...

2008 Lexus IS F…though it's shiny, it has 128,000 miles on it and not a single problem By far, the best car I've ever owned. Then again, this is only my 3rd car.

This is a good place to discuss methods of creating boxes. Most cabinet work is just making boxes. Most architecture and construction is too, for that matter.

If you want to make a box, or cabinet, out of plywood or even solid wood boards, without a frame, you need enough thickness to be able to make adequate connections where the panels meet. Depending on the panel material and thickness, this can be problematic. Typically, the panel ends up being thicker than necessary for structure, simply to get enough thickness at the joints.

If you look at manufactured furniture, dressers for instance, they solve this problem by using interior framing and thinner panels. This keeps weight down while strength is maintained.

I've designed, and had built by a cabinet shop, a whole house of furniture out of plywood with laminate surfaces for easy cleanup. It was VERY heavy because of the thickness they needed to use.

So there is a point where you have to decide whether to choose lighter weight or heavier. It will help determine the structure.

Very good info! So I was thinking that I would build this out of 3/4 baltic birch pretty much every where? The top piece would be 3/4 MDF since it's a sacrificial piece. I figured the design with the back of the cabinet will add structural rigidity to the box? I don't know? I'm obviously not an engineer.

Here are just some new renderings of one box. I kept it pretty much the same, but made it smaller (42" x 24" based on what other members said to do so I can get more out of my 4x8 sheets). Also, due to another member bringing up the fact that the table would be useless if i was working on small parts, I made it so that only half the table would have the holes for dogs and clamps.

If you notice the cabbies themselves are different sizes. Left side is 19" and right side is 20 3/4". Reason being is my air compressor is 18x18x18, and the Rigid shop vac I have is a 20x20x25, so that will go on the right side.

I also added a base for a toe kick using 2x4s. I don't know how deep i should make it so I just made it 3" all the way around???

I'm still trying to figure out what to do with the cabinet/work bench for my router.

I've got something similar to this (older model). I would use it more, but it's such a pain to use because…i don't have a table.

 

[Fcvapor05]

In my opinion you need to consider skinning the front and adding much more substantial framing. If you built it exactly this way, just plywood **** joints everywhere, it would probably be ok-ish just after assembly, but would not be very rigid once loaded down with tools, moved around, and with weight sitting on and being manipulated on the work surface.

 

[Matt The Hammer]

I hope I use a work bench to the point that it breaks.

 

[BikerDad]

I'm surprised at all the hate on using the Kreg jig for pocket holes. They are super simple to use (great for a novice woodworker), and make a really strong joint.

No Kreg hate here, heck, I'm probably going to pick up the new K5 set up this weekend. Love me some Kreg for some things. Are they the best pockethole solution? Sometimes, sometimes not. Are pocketholes always the best solution? heck no, but sometimes they are.

 

[BikerDad]

Okay, since I brought up the toe kick, IF it's on casters, you don't need the toe kick/base.

I would recommend that you put shelf pin holes into the unit when you build it, then you can easily put adjustable shelves in down the road. While it is possible to drill such holes later, it's MUCH easier to do it before assembly. Start the holes 3-5" from the bottom, running to 3-5" from the top.