ConCretin
Well-known member
Lot's of progress since I checked in last. Looking great!
Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Hillside steel workshop project_2 post lift install
- Thread starter 70runner
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
Day134. Not much progress to report this week. They worked on Monday finishing up the last panel on the rear wall and adding brown accent trim to the garage door openings. Workers did not return this week. Was a little disappointed, but overall making good progress. GC says they will return next week with intent to finish the structure, front panels, roof, doors.
Sprinkler system (now a San Diego county mandate for structures larger than 500sqft) install awaits. Fortunate there is a nearby 3/4" line with 100 psi water pressure they can tap rather than running a water line from the meter location approx 250ft away.
Planning to replace the 40yr old asphalt driveway between the garage and house with concrete, approx 2000sqft. There is an approx 5deg slope on the asphalt driveway area adjacent to the pad. Grading for the concrete will help level this slope.
Sprinkler system (now a San Diego county mandate for structures larger than 500sqft) install awaits. Fortunate there is a nearby 3/4" line with 100 psi water pressure they can tap rather than running a water line from the meter location approx 250ft away.
Planning to replace the 40yr old asphalt driveway between the garage and house with concrete, approx 2000sqft. There is an approx 5deg slope on the asphalt driveway area adjacent to the pad. Grading for the concrete will help level this slope.
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Day140. Structure nearly complete. Roof complete except for ridge piece and some trim. Really happy with colors/trim, close match to home.
Plan to paint man door matching color to Janus garage doors. They are listed as Desert Tan. Ordered color sample from Janus, plus there is a distributor in Anaheim. Hopefully they have samples.
Electrical, lighting, and sprinklers next up, also the concrete walkway around the structure. Trying to work in a slab epoxy job as well. Pix below include view from driveway.
Plan to paint man door matching color to Janus garage doors. They are listed as Desert Tan. Ordered color sample from Janus, plus there is a distributor in Anaheim. Hopefully they have samples.
Electrical, lighting, and sprinklers next up, also the concrete walkway around the structure. Trying to work in a slab epoxy job as well. Pix below include view from driveway.
Day152, a lot of progress. Electrical is nearly finished, only porch light remaining. Electrician was husband/wife-assistant team who did most of the electrical in a couple days. 100amp sub, three 120v circuits, single 240v 50a, lights, and garage door circuit.
Lights: six 8ft shop lights, 4 over bay 1 workbench area, the other 2 over bay 3. Nothing directly over the lift area for now.
Won't have electricity to building until phase 2 of the project, replacing the asphalt driveway with concrete, grading to accommodate the detached garage. Remaining electrical item is LED porch motion light. Reading through a couple threads here on mounting exterior lights to ribbed steel buildings, worked up a piece of 3/4" pine to serve as transition between steel and porch light junction box.
Lights: six 8ft shop lights, 4 over bay 1 workbench area, the other 2 over bay 3. Nothing directly over the lift area for now.
Won't have electricity to building until phase 2 of the project, replacing the asphalt driveway with concrete, grading to accommodate the detached garage. Remaining electrical item is LED porch motion light. Reading through a couple threads here on mounting exterior lights to ribbed steel buildings, worked up a piece of 3/4" pine to serve as transition between steel and porch light junction box.
Day153. Garage doors. Local company out of nearby Murrieta CA, residential and commercial outfit. They got both doors up, but were unable to complete the center bay 10x10 as a part was missing from the install package. The other, 8x8 door is up and working, manual chain control. The 10x10 is mounted but awaiting the part to finish. The 10x10 has electronic remote control. Placed an electrical outlet near the 8x8 door if future electronic control is installed.
Oh, and I painted the man door to match the garage doors. Epoxy is scheduled for Friday, Day 155.
Oh, and I painted the man door to match the garage doors. Epoxy is scheduled for Friday, Day 155.
Day159. Building is essentially complete, only lacking the mandatory fire sprinklers. Door guys finished up the 10x10 yesterday and it is working perfectly with remote. Sprinklers are scheduled for next week.
Meanwhile, I'll be moving in. Probably install lift and stationary compressor first as both require concrete fasteners. Then workbench and cabinets.
Negotiating with GC for phase 2, driveway asphalt removal/concrete. Still to be done under current contract:
*Sprinklers
*Electrical run and service panel replacement, current panel is original circa 1980. Replacement request to San Diego Gas & Electric was submitted 10 weeks ago. Still waiting...
*Circuit run from service panel to kitchen island in daughters area. Will require some concrete cutting work.
Meanwhile, I'll be moving in. Probably install lift and stationary compressor first as both require concrete fasteners. Then workbench and cabinets.
Negotiating with GC for phase 2, driveway asphalt removal/concrete. Still to be done under current contract:
*Sprinklers
*Electrical run and service panel replacement, current panel is original circa 1980. Replacement request to San Diego Gas & Electric was submitted 10 weeks ago. Still waiting...
*Circuit run from service panel to kitchen island in daughters area. Will require some concrete cutting work.
Phase 2 gets underway this coming Monday. Removing approx 2500sqft of asphalt and pouring approx 3000sqft of concrete driveway, contoured for access to the workshop. Assuming no weather, GC hopes to be done in a week. I started clearing some areas with my Kubota, including a couple of large rocks.
Done in concert will be two trenches, the electrical service and a water line for the sprinklers. Also planning a service panel update if San Diego Gas & Electric will get off their butts to bless it.
Done in concert will be two trenches, the electrical service and a water line for the sprinklers. Also planning a service panel update if San Diego Gas & Electric will get off their butts to bless it.
Day173. Phase 2 is underway. Concrete sub brought his equipment to site on Monday and trenched for the electrical and water (sprinklers). Decision was made to run both in same trench. They completed/covered the trench so I could move my truck down the entry road in case we need a vehicle this week. We also moved the lift posts to the new building, so I can begin installation.
One challenge is my septic tank is directly in the path of the trench. Fortunately the tank risers are about 3ft long, so they can trench between the risers. Asphalt demo began in earnest Tuesday. Quickly discovered there were two asphalt layers. Previous homeowner had apparently asphalted over existing asphalt driveway. Demo completed Tuesday, prep for concrete on Wednesday. Below are late Tuesday pix, first showing final asphalt dump truck being loaded. Concrete is planned for Fri/Sat, approx 3000sqft, plus walkway around building.
One challenge is my septic tank is directly in the path of the trench. Fortunately the tank risers are about 3ft long, so they can trench between the risers. Asphalt demo began in earnest Tuesday. Quickly discovered there were two asphalt layers. Previous homeowner had apparently asphalted over existing asphalt driveway. Demo completed Tuesday, prep for concrete on Wednesday. Below are late Tuesday pix, first showing final asphalt dump truck being loaded. Concrete is planned for Fri/Sat, approx 3000sqft, plus walkway around building.
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Day175. First concrete pour, using a pump truck, for the walkway around the workshop and a portion of the driveway. Decision was made to do 2 pours, one with pumper, one without, because of driveway and workshop/walkway geometry. Final pour is scheduled for Tuesday, probably 3-4 trucks.
Still waiting for San Diego G&E to bless the service panel update, something about conduit size verification.
Last pic shows challenging geometry of workshop corner. Large grade change in small area. After much discussion with concrete foreman and GC, decided to use a stepped approach branching off existing retaining wall, sloped down to front of walkway. They did a really good job. Also installed some drains in walkway around workshop.
Still waiting for San Diego G&E to bless the service panel update, something about conduit size verification.
Last pic shows challenging geometry of workshop corner. Large grade change in small area. After much discussion with concrete foreman and GC, decided to use a stepped approach branching off existing retaining wall, sloped down to front of walkway. They did a really good job. Also installed some drains in walkway around workshop.
Day177. Final driveway pour, 4 trucks, approx 32yds today. Total 45yds. Concrete foreman said concrete supplier was very punctual. As soon as one truck finished cleanup, another was ready to back up driveway. Very pleased with job. Problem corner turned out good. Contoured to direct water down middle of driveway.
In the pix you can see the two large trees behind the garage. As Murphy would have it, overnight we had a santa ana wind event (winds from northeast), blowing leaves into the driveway area. About midnight I cleared the leaves with my blower. Still blowing in the morning, so they had to carefully remove them off the fresh concrete. Fortunately the winds died as the morning moved along, but tricky for awhile.
GC crew will return Thursday to continue the electrical/water trench over the septic tank. Starting to see the end of the construction portion of this project. Still waiting for utility to bless the new service panel. Also remaining is moving my workshop/tools/et al. to the new building. That will have to wait a couple weeks, until I can get the Kubota on the new driveway.
In the pix you can see the two large trees behind the garage. As Murphy would have it, overnight we had a santa ana wind event (winds from northeast), blowing leaves into the driveway area. About midnight I cleared the leaves with my blower. Still blowing in the morning, so they had to carefully remove them off the fresh concrete. Fortunately the winds died as the morning moved along, but tricky for awhile.
GC crew will return Thursday to continue the electrical/water trench over the septic tank. Starting to see the end of the construction portion of this project. Still waiting for utility to bless the new service panel. Also remaining is moving my workshop/tools/et al. to the new building. That will have to wait a couple weeks, until I can get the Kubota on the new driveway.
Thx. Not so noticeable against the aging asphalt are the adjacent adobe planter boxes in the portico area. Original adobe block, circa 1980, and showing their 40+yrs. The concrete guy left a 1ft buffer between the driveway and portico planter box, for "future" project. Phase 3?
We finally got the go ahead from SDG&E for the service panel replacement. Monday they plan to continue the electrical/water trench, to the side of attached garage, then the electrical will branch off into the garage, then to the nearby service panel at rear of house. Water trench will continue around to rear of garage to faucet.
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Day185. Concrete pour is a week old. Concrete foreman said to wait 14 days for vehicle traffic, so that's what we're doing. We do a good bit of ups/fedex/amazon activity, so we placed a package drop container at the driveway entrance with cones. Have decided to keep that in place even after the 14 days to minimize delivery truck activity on the concrete driveway.
Trenching for electrical/water finished last 2 days. Next up, connecting water line for workshop sprinklers, running electrical through garage and attic to service panel, and replacing panel.
County code requires external alarm bell in conjunction with sprinklers. We decided to mount it on north face of workshop, out of sight/out of mind.
In parallel with service panel work, we have a small project to run electrical service to a kitchen island. We will remove the necessary veneer flooring planks to open the area to cut a channel through the concrete to the island.
Trenching for electrical/water finished last 2 days. Next up, connecting water line for workshop sprinklers, running electrical through garage and attic to service panel, and replacing panel.
County code requires external alarm bell in conjunction with sprinklers. We decided to mount it on north face of workshop, out of sight/out of mind.
In parallel with service panel work, we have a small project to run electrical service to a kitchen island. We will remove the necessary veneer flooring planks to open the area to cut a channel through the concrete to the island.
Day207. Holiday break for the contractor, so I pressed on with the lift install. Some details to follow regarding the 2 post lift install for those interested.
Power utility shows up tomorrow for disconnect, so electrician can update service panel and run conductors to workshop. This was originally planned for before
, however the utility company required documentation the panel was 400A. The utility had no records pertaining to service panel size, suggested I check with county assessor. That was an excruciating dead end. Fortunately our recent solar install permit documented the service panel at 400A, so we got back on their disconnect schedule. An interesting footnote, the utility company sent one of their contractors out to check the service conduit/conductor size. He verified everything was sized for a 400A panel, but I guess that wasn't good enough
Power utility shows up tomorrow for disconnect, so electrician can update service panel and run conductors to workshop. This was originally planned for before
, however the utility company required documentation the panel was 400A. The utility had no records pertaining to service panel size, suggested I check with county assessor. That was an excruciating dead end. Fortunately our recent solar install permit documented the service panel at 400A, so we got back on their disconnect schedule. An interesting footnote, the utility company sent one of their contractors out to check the service conduit/conductor size. He verified everything was sized for a 400A panel, but I guess that wasn't good enough Lift install detail. This is my third 2 post lift install. First install, about 15yrs ago, used mechanical expansion anchors commonly included with most 2 post lifts. A couple of these anchors eventually would not hold torque. Ended up driving them through the slab and replacing with Wej-It Power-Sert epoxy anchors. Not bashing expansion anchors, but I believe modern epoxy anchoring systems, if installed correctly, are a better solution. Second lift install I used the Power-Serts again entirely, with Red Head G5 twin dispenser epoxy. No issues at all, although the female threaded design (below) caused me some concern. If, for example, the upper lip of the anchor was installed at grade, the lip could contact the post baseplate and compromise torque readings. Spoke to Wej-It about this. They recommended a 1/8" below grade install. I installed with this offset, but that lingering concern remained.
For this third install researched alternatives to the Wej-It design. Came across a Hilti epoxy anchoring system that seemed promising, with specs equal or often greater than corresponding mechanical anchors. Hilti has a public service where you can talk directly to one of their engineers. Spent an hour with one talking 2 post lift anchoring. His recommendation was their HIT HY-200 V3 adhesive system with their HIT-Z anchor rod (below). He said this is their typical "extreme" condition solution, often used in overhead conveyor systems and large robotic systems. Their HY-200 V3 system does not require the hole cleaning needed for previous adhesive systems. Decided to go with this solution. Downside: the HY-200 2 part epoxy requires a matching dispenser. Best option, find a used one on ebay.
Basically two anchor install options, one without the baseplate, one with baseplate in position. Selected no baseplate approach mostly to keep epoxy from running under baseplate, which could complicate leveling the posts later. Without baseplate is much cleaner install as you can clean up overfill. This approach requires the means to lift the posts onto the fasteners (more on this later). Placed posts in exact positions, then used baseplate holes as a drill template. Drilled with 7/8 SDS hammer drill bit to depth of 2-3in, then moved post/baseplate and drilled to final depth of 7.5in. HIT-Z rod I used is their longest, 9 3/4in. I cleaned the holes anyway until no dust at 100psi air pressure.
Hilti recommended 2/3rds fill on holes, approx 2.5in from grade in my case. Counted the number of grip pulls on the dispenser during first fill to reach 2/3rds mark. Ended up with overfill, so decreased number of pulls. After a couple of holes had the number of pulls nailed down for minimum overflow. When I originally sized the number of epoxy packs needed based on number of holes (12), hole diameter/depth, and rod, came out to slightly more than 2 packs. Bought two hoping it would suffice. It did, barely. The HY-200 R version sets in about 15min, so there is some time to adjust the rod if necessary. Full cure in about 2hrs. They make an A version which sets/cures much faster. Here are the two baseplate areas finished. Stay tuned for the final install.
For this third install researched alternatives to the Wej-It design. Came across a Hilti epoxy anchoring system that seemed promising, with specs equal or often greater than corresponding mechanical anchors. Hilti has a public service where you can talk directly to one of their engineers. Spent an hour with one talking 2 post lift anchoring. His recommendation was their HIT HY-200 V3 adhesive system with their HIT-Z anchor rod (below). He said this is their typical "extreme" condition solution, often used in overhead conveyor systems and large robotic systems. Their HY-200 V3 system does not require the hole cleaning needed for previous adhesive systems. Decided to go with this solution. Downside: the HY-200 2 part epoxy requires a matching dispenser. Best option, find a used one on ebay.
Basically two anchor install options, one without the baseplate, one with baseplate in position. Selected no baseplate approach mostly to keep epoxy from running under baseplate, which could complicate leveling the posts later. Without baseplate is much cleaner install as you can clean up overfill. This approach requires the means to lift the posts onto the fasteners (more on this later). Placed posts in exact positions, then used baseplate holes as a drill template. Drilled with 7/8 SDS hammer drill bit to depth of 2-3in, then moved post/baseplate and drilled to final depth of 7.5in. HIT-Z rod I used is their longest, 9 3/4in. I cleaned the holes anyway until no dust at 100psi air pressure.
Hilti recommended 2/3rds fill on holes, approx 2.5in from grade in my case. Counted the number of grip pulls on the dispenser during first fill to reach 2/3rds mark. Ended up with overfill, so decreased number of pulls. After a couple of holes had the number of pulls nailed down for minimum overflow. When I originally sized the number of epoxy packs needed based on number of holes (12), hole diameter/depth, and rod, came out to slightly more than 2 packs. Bought two hoping it would suffice. It did, barely. The HY-200 R version sets in about 15min, so there is some time to adjust the rod if necessary. Full cure in about 2hrs. They make an A version which sets/cures much faster. Here are the two baseplate areas finished. Stay tuned for the final install.
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I like the way you roll. When I get to building my shop or modifying one already built, I'm totally ripping off your ideas. No Harvard degree required.Lift install detail. This is my third 2 post lift install. First install, about 15yrs ago, used mechanical expansion anchors commonly included with most 2 post lifts. A couple of these anchors eventually would not hold torque. Ended up driving them through the slab and replacing with Wej-It Power-Sert epoxy anchors. Not bashing expansion anchors, but I believe modern epoxy anchoring systems, if installed correctly, are a better solution. Second lift install I used the Power-Serts again entirely, with Red Head G5 twin dispenser epoxy. No issues at all, although the female threaded design (below) caused me some concern. If, for example, the upper lip of the anchor was installed at grade, the lip could contact the post baseplate and compromise torque readings. Spoke to Wej-It about this. They recommended a 1/8" below grade install. I installed with this offset, but that lingering concern remained.
For this third install researched alternatives to the Wej-It design. Came across a Hilti epoxy anchoring system that seemed promising, with specs equal or often greater than corresponding mechanical anchors. Hilti has a public service where you can talk directly to one of their engineers. Spent an hour with one talking 2 post lift anchoring. His recommendation was their HIT HY-200 V3 adhesive system with their HIT-Z anchor rod (below). He said this is their typical "extreme" condition solution, often used in overhead conveyor systems and large robotic systems. Their HY-200 V3 system does not require the hole cleaning needed for previous adhesive systems. Decided to go with this solution. Downside: the HY-200 2 part epoxy requires a matching dispenser. Best option, find a used one on ebay.
Basically two anchor install options, one without the baseplate, one with baseplate in position. Selected no baseplate approach mostly to keep epoxy from running under baseplate, which could complicate leveling the posts later. Without baseplate is much cleaner install as you can clean up overfill. This approach requires the means to lift the posts onto the fasteners (more on this later). Placed posts in exact positions, then used baseplate holes as a drill template. Drilled with 7/8 SDS hammer drill bit to depth of 2-3in, then moved post/baseplate and drilled to final depth of 7.5in. HIT-Z rod I used is their longest, 9 3/4in. I cleaned the holes anyway until no dust at 100psi air pressure.
Hilti recommended 2/3rds fill on holes, approx 2.5in from grade in my case. Counted the number of grip pulls on the dispenser during first fill to reach 2/3rds mark. Ended up with overfill, so decreased number of pulls. After a couple of holes had the number of pulls nailed down for minimum overflow. When I originally sized the number of epoxy packs needed based on number of holes (12), hole diameter/depth, and rod, came out to slightly more than 2 packs. Bought two hoping it would suffice. It did, barely. The HY-200 A version sets in about 15min, so there is some time to adjust the rod if necessary. Full cure in about 2hrs. They make an R version which sets/cures much faster. Here are the two baseplate areas finished. Stay tuned for the final install.
Service panel replacement. Mentioned before, had decided to update the 400A service panel as part of this project due primarily to age (40+yrs) and difficulty of finding the necessary split bus breakers. Power utility (San Diego Gas & Electric) contractors showed up about 7:30am for disconnect. Electrician showed up shortly after at 8am. Original panel, disconnect, removed, new panel (Square D SU3040D400CN) below.
Install took nearly 12hrs. Fortunately we had a very understanding inspector who approved the install before it was completed based on discussions with the electrician. Reconnect occurred about 3pm. Electrician worked into night, finishing about 7:30pm. For the electric inclined folks, you may notice in the final pic one of the two main breaker slots for the split bus is empty. One 200A main breaker was supplied with the panel. Electrician did not have the other one needed. He improvised using a 200A branch breaker to feed the large subpanel in the house. He plans to return next week with the proper 200A main breaker to finish up.
Install took nearly 12hrs. Fortunately we had a very understanding inspector who approved the install before it was completed based on discussions with the electrician. Reconnect occurred about 3pm. Electrician worked into night, finishing about 7:30pm. For the electric inclined folks, you may notice in the final pic one of the two main breaker slots for the split bus is empty. One 200A main breaker was supplied with the panel. Electrician did not have the other one needed. He improvised using a 200A branch breaker to feed the large subpanel in the house. He plans to return next week with the proper 200A main breaker to finish up.
Day212. An ancillary project to the workshop and service panel update is running a couple 20A circuits to a kitchen island in my daughters living area. The island sits on a veneer plank floor so we had to clear a section to run the electrical trench in the concrete pad. We cleared the section over the weekend and the contractors cut the concrete, laid the conduit, and refilled concrete on Monday (below).
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Electrician returned today but did not finish or hook up with workshop. After we get the electrical done, we'll need a fire sprinkler pressure test, then the final permit sign off. In the meantime slowly transferring workshop tools/equipment to new home.
. Electrician returned today but did not finish or hook up with workshop. After we get the electrical done, we'll need a fire sprinkler pressure test, then the final permit sign off. In the meantime slowly transferring workshop tools/equipment to new home.
82355
Well-known member
Do you live in the country?
Martin
Martin
82355
Well-known member
I assume too close to San Diego is the problem? At least it's coming along.
Martin
Martin
If one has to live in the People's Republik, N. San Diego county would be high on the list...for me anyway. Far enough away from San Diego proper, 50mi or so, close to Temecula/Murrieta services and sounds of freedom from USMC Pendleton. But still with large county bureaucracies.
Today, Day219, we got the permit checkoff from the fire dept on the sprinkler system. There was some concern the 55psi I have the house pressure regulator set at wouldn't be enough to trigger the sprinkler system/bell warning. Worked fine, so didn't have to adjust regulator. Stucco sub returned to finish up the service panel area and a couple other spots. Finished panel below.
Scheduled for final county checkoff on structure permit tomorrow. Approaching end of project, but beginning of transfer of workshop to new structure. Also remaining is big pile of dirt to be dealt with.
Scheduled for final county checkoff on structure permit tomorrow. Approaching end of project, but beginning of transfer of workshop to new structure. Also remaining is big pile of dirt to be dealt with.
Day220. Final inspection was thwarted by a steel bldg certification form required by the county, unknown to any of us until today. Fortunately, again, inspector checked off everything and told GC to email him a signed form and he would complete final bldg permit signoff by email. We got the signed form today (Thurs), so hopefully permit will be signed off this week.
I have electricity to the bldg, so have spent last couple days getting the 2 post lift running and beginning to move equipment to workshop. A couple pix of the shop lighting.
I have electricity to the bldg, so have spent last couple days getting the 2 post lift running and beginning to move equipment to workshop. A couple pix of the shop lighting.
Day 228. Final signoff on building permit. Now I'm supposed to provide the county with project costs so they can hike my prop taxes 
Still a few loose ends for the GC to wrap up, including moving some remaining excavated dirt/rocks. Transfer of workshop to new building is underway.
After action report on 2 post lift install. As noted in earlier thread, this go around used a Hilti epoxy system for the base anchors. Used their longest 3/4" Hit-Z epoxy anchors, 9 3/4", as the concrete was 12" deep at the posts. Hammer drilled the holes to 7 1/2" deep with 7/8" SDS bit. Cure time is approx 2hrs, but I let the epoxy cure for a couple days. Installed anchors without the lift baseplates in place. Was concerned installing anchors with baseplates could spread epoxy under the baseplate and complicate leveling the posts. Downside is, of course, having to lift the posts and lower onto the anchor male threads.
I use an overhead reinforcement brace for the lift, attached to each post with a 2x2 "receiver". The receiver is fastened to the lift post with 4 bolts. Used 2x2 square tube, 1/4" wall for the brace.
So how to lift the posts using the receivers? Designed and fabricated an insert adapter from steel scraps that would fit inside the receiver and provide fork lift pads. 3rd pic above. This worked perfectly for the right side lift post as I was able to maneuver the tractor inside the bldg to approach directly from the side. Had to move the left post out of the way.
For the left post, there was no way to maneuver the tractor for a side approach. Used some 2x4 and 4x4 lumber to extend the adapter lift pads as shown below. This allowed me lift the post from the front. We recorded a time lapse video (below) that shows the install.
Still a few loose ends for the GC to wrap up, including moving some remaining excavated dirt/rocks. Transfer of workshop to new building is underway.
After action report on 2 post lift install. As noted in earlier thread, this go around used a Hilti epoxy system for the base anchors. Used their longest 3/4" Hit-Z epoxy anchors, 9 3/4", as the concrete was 12" deep at the posts. Hammer drilled the holes to 7 1/2" deep with 7/8" SDS bit. Cure time is approx 2hrs, but I let the epoxy cure for a couple days. Installed anchors without the lift baseplates in place. Was concerned installing anchors with baseplates could spread epoxy under the baseplate and complicate leveling the posts. Downside is, of course, having to lift the posts and lower onto the anchor male threads.
I use an overhead reinforcement brace for the lift, attached to each post with a 2x2 "receiver". The receiver is fastened to the lift post with 4 bolts. Used 2x2 square tube, 1/4" wall for the brace.
So how to lift the posts using the receivers? Designed and fabricated an insert adapter from steel scraps that would fit inside the receiver and provide fork lift pads. 3rd pic above. This worked perfectly for the right side lift post as I was able to maneuver the tractor inside the bldg to approach directly from the side. Had to move the left post out of the way.
For the left post, there was no way to maneuver the tractor for a side approach. Used some 2x4 and 4x4 lumber to extend the adapter lift pads as shown below. This allowed me lift the post from the front. We recorded a time lapse video (below) that shows the install.
