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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Hillside steel workshop project_2 post lift install

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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70runner

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Feb 17, 2010
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Avocado country
Moving workshop continues. A bit cluttered, but most main components (welder, compressor, workbench, benchmill, drill press, tool chest, pto genset, etc) now in place. Will not be a surprise to most here, but the stuff you find when you clean/move a workshop 😲 😲 😲 Last pic is a couple pegboard panels next to the cabinets.

Still have a leak issue with front window. No other leaks and we had some pretty good leak tests in SOCAL last several weeks.

workshop area.jpg workshop_workbench.jpg workshop2.jpg

workshop1.jpg pegboard.jpg
 
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DeeDubz

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Socal
Props to your wife * I assume * for helping you install the lift. Shop looks good.
 

Homewrecker

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Sep 19, 2013
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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Lift install detail. This is my third 2 post lift install. First install, about 15yrs ago, used mechanical expansion anchors commonly included with most 2 post lifts. A couple of these anchors eventually would not hold torque. Ended up driving them through the slab and replacing with Wej-It Power-Sert epoxy anchors. Not bashing expansion anchors, but I believe modern epoxy anchoring systems, if installed correctly, are a better solution. Second lift install I used the Power-Serts again entirely, with Red Head G5 twin dispenser epoxy. No issues at all, although the female threaded design (below) caused me some concern. If, for example, the upper lip of the anchor was installed at grade, the lip could contact the post baseplate and compromise torque readings. Spoke to Wej-It about this. They recommended a 1/8" below grade install. I installed with this offset, but that lingering concern remained.

PowerSert2t.JPG

For this third install researched alternatives to the Wej-It design. Came across a Hilti epoxy anchoring system that seemed promising, with specs equal or often greater than corresponding mechanical anchors. Hilti has a public service where you can talk directly to one of their engineers. Spent an hour with one talking 2 post lift anchoring. His recommendation was their HIT HY-200 V3 adhesive system with their HIT-Z anchor rod (below). He said this is their typical "extreme" condition solution, often used in overhead conveyor systems and large robotic systems. Their HY-200 V3 system does not require the hole cleaning needed for previous adhesive systems. Decided to go with this solution. Downside: the HY-200 2 part epoxy requires a matching dispenser. Best option, find a used one on ebay.

Hilti HIT HY-200.JPG Hilti.JPG

Basically two anchor install options, one without the baseplate, one with baseplate in position. Selected no baseplate approach mostly to keep epoxy from running under baseplate, which could complicate leveling the posts later. Without baseplate is much cleaner install as you can clean up overfill. This approach requires the means to lift the posts onto the fasteners (more on this later). Placed posts in exact positions, then used baseplate holes as a drill template. Drilled with 7/8 SDS hammer drill bit to depth of 2-3in, then moved post/baseplate and drilled to final depth of 7.5in. HIT-Z rod I used is their longest, 9 3/4in. I cleaned the holes anyway until no dust at 100psi air pressure.

Hilti recommended 2/3rds fill on holes, approx 2.5in from grade in my case. Counted the number of grip pulls on the dispenser during first fill to reach 2/3rds mark. Ended up with overfill, so decreased number of pulls. After a couple of holes had the number of pulls nailed down for minimum overflow. When I originally sized the number of epoxy packs needed based on number of holes (12), hole diameter/depth, and rod, came out to slightly more than 2 packs. Bought two hoping it would suffice. It did, barely. The HY-200 R version sets in about 15min, so there is some time to adjust the rod if necessary. Full cure in about 2hrs. They make an A version which sets/cures much faster. Here are the two baseplate areas finished. Stay tuned for the final install.

Leftpostfasteners_epoxy.jpgRightpostfasteners_epoxy.jpg

I'm somewhat in the same situation as your 1st & 2nd lift install. My lift was installed using the included wedge anchors and a few are still taking torque during my monthly re-torquing (as per manufacturer recommendations). I was hoping they would finally properly seat but it does not look that way. They torque to spec but then the next month they again take more torque etc.

I was originally planning on hammering them down (holes were drilled through the slab) and installing some actual Wej-it wedge anchors but a few people have recommended going with the Hilti Hy-200 System. It seemed complicated to figure out what all to use for this system but after some reading I think I'm up to speed now.

My concern in using this system is that there is no information for using this system on through-holes. Some Hilti documentation I came across said it was tested like this either. I've read somewhere on here that someone made 'slugs' out of aluminum foil and stuffed it at the bottom of the hole to prevent the adhesive from leaking.

Since the holes are all the way through this complicates things when it comes to the anchor length needed. I have to make sure that the anchor still has enough threads protruding while making sure it goes as deep as possible into the hole without coming out the other end.

As luck would have it, a friend of a friend is a Hilti sales rep and can get me discounts and I may also be able to borrow the necessary adhesive gun etc.

Ideally, I'd like to hammer down the existing anchors, open up the holes to the required size (7/8" I think for the 3/4" anchors) and then install the epoxy anchors without having to move the lift posts. The holes in the lift base plate are large enough to pass a 7/8" concrete bit through.

What did you do to stop the epoxy flowing out of the hole when you switched to epoxy anchors? I have not looked too much into cost yet but in total I have 26 holes to fill (including the base plate extensions) so that won't be cheap.
 
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70runner

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Ideally, I'd like to hammer down the existing anchors, open up the holes to the required size (7/8" I think for the 3/4" anchors) and then install the epoxy anchors without having to move the lift posts. The holes in the lift base plate are large enough to pass a 7/8" concrete bit through.

What did you do to stop the epoxy flowing out of the hole when you switched to epoxy anchors? I have not looked too much into cost yet but in total I have 26 holes to fill (including the base plate extensions) so that won't be cheap.
If you move the lift posts for a clean install, be careful to consider minimum edge/hole distance specs.

In my case, didn't have the option to move the lift. I cut some circle "plugs" from 1/8" plastic stock used for another project, then inserted them to the bottom of the holes. Cut them for a friction fit, pushed down with a socket.

About 3mos or so since installation of the Hilti epoxy system. All 12 fasteners are holding torque.
 
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Homewrecker

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Sep 19, 2013
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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
If you move the lift posts for a clean install, be careful to consider minimum edge/hole distance specs.

In my case, didn't have the option to move the lift. I cut some circle "plugs" from 1/8" plastic stock used for another project, then inserted them to the bottom of the holes. Cut them for a friction fit, pushed down with a socket.

About 3mos or so since installation of the Hilti epoxy system. All 12 fasteners are holding torque.
I don't have any intention of moving the posts unless I have to.

I ended up getting a roll of 1" foam backer rod to use as a plug at the bottom of the hole. The socket is a good idea is it should keep the 'plug' square in the hole.

Glad the epoxy system is working. I ended up getting the Hilti-HY200R V3 epoxy and the Hit-Z anchors. Thanks to my contact I ended up getting almost $2k of stuff for $300. Their Markup is insane; especially on the HDM-500 Manual Dispenser. I haven't started installation yet though.

One concern I do have is the enlargement of the holes from 3/4" to 7/8". I have to make sure that the 7/8" SDS bit follows the same path as the original hole and doesn't end up elongating it. I've enlarged holes in wood and metal etc but never in concrete. This is a lot more critical.
 
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70runner

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Backer rod should be fine.

That's an amazing deal on the Hilti stuff. Their markup is insane. Spoke to a construction customer while I was buying my stuff. He said their markup is nearly 40%. Counter guy heard that and nodded his head. Still worth it to me. I believe their HY200 V3 system is the best option for a 2 post lift.

I did the 3/4 to 7/8 hole enlargement when I replaced the mech anchors with epoxy inserts. Although hole uniformity is not as critical with epoxy as it is with mech anchors, I was likewise concerned. Fabbed up a fixture that would keep the SDS drill centered in the hole. Tied the fixture to a quick attach plate mounted to my Kubota. Overkill, yea, but those enlarged holes were perfect.
 
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70runner

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Avocado country
Followup on the "dirt/rock pile" created from the hillside excavation.

Early in the project, during excavation, spoke with GC and grader about cleaning up the dirt/rock pile. I considered it as part of the grading work. Grader agreed and promised to return at end of project to "make it look nice". Here's a pic from Sep23 that shows the final pile of rocks and dirt. This area is adjacent to the build site and driveway.
sprinkler_repair_15Sep.jpg

As we were finishing up the project in January, I asked about cleaning up the dirt/rock pile. GC said he would talk with the grader. This dragged on for a couple weeks as grader was reportedly very busy. Finally got a response that the grader wanted $4K to return for a couple days to "make it look nice". Told the GC there was never any discussion about extra cost for cleaning up and we had verbally agreed cleaning up would be part of the original grading task. We went back/forth, ended up agreeing to disagree.

I delayed final payment for the project pending resolution of the cleanup issue. We reached a compromise on the final payment which deducted for the cleanup work. I'm basically doing it with my Kubota, a few hours a day for the last several weeks. Below a picture from today. Moved most of the rocks to a ditch which feeds a drainage pipe under the road.
10May24.jpg Rock_drainage ditch.jpg

Built a rock grizzly screen from 2x4s and some chain link to separate rocks for the drainage ditch.
Grizzly.jpg
 

Homewrecker

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
159
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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
I did the 3/4 to 7/8 hole enlargement when I replaced the mech anchors with epoxy inserts. Although hole uniformity is not as critical with epoxy as it is with mech anchors, I was likewise concerned. Fabbed up a fixture that would keep the SDS drill centered in the hole. Tied the fixture to a quick attach plate mounted to my Kubota. Overkill, yea, but those enlarged holes were perfect.
Well I don't have a Kubota but I have a Lego John Deere lol. I'll have to figure something out. Maybe I'll create a new post asking for some ideas for this. I was originally going to put a bubble sight level on the back of the drill but that really won't help since some of those holes were not drilled perfectly vertical by the installers.

How long did you wait for the HY-200 to cure before torquing?
 
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