Homemade Tools

[NASTYZEN]

I like your quick release. How do you keep the post from rotating?

Jim

Thank's,This is actually the second machine that I built and the quick release idea came after working with the first one and finding it hard to start and finish a part using the same pressure consistently.There's a hidden key way on the shaft that keeps it from turning.
Gotta watch them thumbs,hurts like hell!

 

[Jim Stabe]

+1 on the thumbs, I finally got to where I don't run over them very often. I did the opposite - my 1st machine had a quick release and I left it off my current machine. I can enter from the edge of a panel easily if it doesn't have a flange and if it does, I usually had to raise the wheel anyway because the QR didn't have enough travel. For me I like the extra rigidity, it was another source of slop removed from the equation. It also allows me to make the anvil holder smaller so I can fit tighter curved parts without interference. Here is my latest. The upper and lower cradels are adjustable at 90 degrees to each other to get the positioning exact and I can turn them 90 degrees to be able to wheel into the frame as well. I also have a go cart slick upper and a tipping wheel for it.

 

[Interex]

Reminds me of....

 

[Jim Stabe]

Intrex

Your picture at the bottom didn't come through.

 

[Interex]

Ok, rehosted to Photobucket.

 

[NASTYZEN]

+1 on the thumbs, I finally got to where I don't run over them very often. I did the opposite - my 1st machine had a quick release and I left it off my current machine. I can enter from the edge of a panel easily if it doesn't have a flange and if it does, I usually had to raise the wheel anyway because the QR didn't have enough travel. For me I like the extra rigidity, it was another source of slop removed from the equation. It also allows me to make the anvil holder smaller so I can fit tighter curved parts without interference. Here is my latest. The upper and lower cradels are adjustable at 90 degrees to each other to get the positioning exact and I can turn them 90 degrees to be able to wheel into the frame as well. I also have a go cart slick upper and a tipping wheel for it.

Nice design,looks sturdy.I like to way you can change the top attachments and turn it 90 deg.The reason mine is mounted the way I did and a groove machined in the top wheel is so you can grab it with your hand and help drive it a little.Some times I abuse it and flatten some 3/16 steel plate.What do you use that 3rd attachment for?

 

[Jim Stabe]

Nice design,looks sturdy.I like to way you can change the top attachments and turn it 90 deg.The reason mine is mounted the way I did and a groove machined in the top wheel is so you can grab it with your hand and help drive it a little.Some times I abuse it and flatten some 3/16 steel plate.What do you use that 3rd attachment for?

The 3rd picture is a tipping wheel and it is running against a rubber anvil on the bottom. I made the upper from a large washer tacked into a hub that runs in olite bushings. The edge is turned sharp then a very small radius put on. If you need to throw a flange on a curved edge you just roll the wheel on the break line increasing the pressure each pass and it will tip up the flange with a really clean break line. You can also put steps into a piece with it by tippiing from one side then turning over and tipping from the back

 

[NASTYZEN]

DIY sand blast cabinet.

 

[lametec]

That's my plan for my fuel oil tank once I use up/sell the rest of the oil. I installed a propane furnace last year so it's no longer needed.

My current blasting cabinet is made out of a 55 gal. drum.

Also made a valve spring compressor for my Chrysler 3.5 rebuild:

There are more home made tools, but I don't have pics of 'em at the moment.

 

[hoopty388]

if someone builds another of these homemade balsting cabinets I would love to see a write up

 

[volvo420coupe]

I restore and ride vintage lightweight bicycles. I had a few parts I couldn't remove with my available tools so I made them. The notched piece is all hand done with files and was brazed onto an old socket.

I am curious as to the difference between these tools and a regular crank puller and bottom bracket tool, the teeth aren't as deep on the homemade version but other than that, i can't see a difference. I have a crank puller similar to the homemade one that I have never used, supposedly its for french bikes with different threads.

 

[wesmamyke]

The only functional difference in his crank puller is the tip does not rotate like the ready made ones.

 

[Xenocide]

BB tool is weird spacing for "normal" bikes

 

[chopper1]

Not made by me or as involved as the tools shown on this thread but I thought I'd throw this one on. I picked it up today at a yard sale with a load of 'standard' tools. About 6-1/2' long and made from an Indestro 1/2 drive extension. I think I'll be getting a lot of use out of this one.

 

[NASTYZEN]

DIY sand blast cabinet.

Here's some inside shots.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Here's my DIY English wheel.(before cnc)

Closer shots

 

[NASTYZEN]

DIY Tube beader.
I use this to bead water tubes (make a bump or raised ring if you like) to keep the hoses from popping off the tube.Made it years ago.
Even works on steel .049 thick.

 

[PCO6]

Here's some inside shots.

Very nicely done! It appears that both ends open up - which I like. I'm sure there are several options but what did you use to seal the doors?

 

[NASTYZEN]

Very nicely done! It appears that both ends open up - which I like. I'm sure there are several options but what did you use to seal the doors?

Thank's,it was a noisy but fun project to build.Wish I had a plasma cutting torch!
I used plain old one sided sticky 3/4in.thick weather stripping from the hardware store.I went thick to make up for the warpage of the doors.Welded a 1/8 by3/4in. wide flange to both door and tank and I keep them closed with a tension type clamp.
The reason I went with two doors was to be able to sandblast go kart chassis.Much easier to manipulate big stuff holding it from two ends.
I use a 2.0hp shopvac to spread the dust allover the shop.
One day I`ll make myself a cyclone separator or something to keep the dust down.
Maybe someone out there has already made one and will show us a pic or two?..
Make sure its empty before attempting to cut it open!

 

[Jim Stabe]

DIY Tube beader.
I use this to bead water tubes (make a bump or raised ring if you like) to keep the hoses from popping off the tube.Made it years ago.
Even works on steel .049 thick.

I'm looking to make something similar. Can you provide some details on what you used and how you made it?

Thanks

 

[NASTYZEN]

I'm looking to make something similar. Can you provide some details on what you used and how you made it?

Thanks

Hello Jim,been busy this summer,gotta work to pay off my shop!
Well I guess you need access to a lathe to be able to make the rolling dies.I used 4140 material to make mine,the rest is just mild steel.I will be modifying the inner die by adding a twist handle a bit like a can opener to help drive it.The inner die has a groove in it to keep it from moving back and forth in the housing and an Allen screw threaded in the housing long enough to go into the groove.
The plate with a shaft welded to it is a guide to keep the distance of the bump constant on the edge of the tube to be worked.
The outer two roller dies are held in place with shoulder bolts threaded into the sliding plate witch is a little like a hand holding onto the main body of the tool.This plate has a threaded rod going into a bushing that has a shoulder to bottom out and a tiny shoulder bolt to hold it on when unscrewing or backing off pressure.At the other end the threaded rod goes thou a threaded bushing that is welded to the body.And finally I machined an aluminum knob that is threaded and locktited to the threaded rod.
Not something I use every day but very handy when I make parts for Formula Fords or Vintage race cars.
If you end up making one,it would be nice to see it here.
Enjoy

 

[NASTYZEN]

DIY shop press.
25 ton cylinder for air hydraulic but the air hydraulic pump snuffed it.At $1200.00 to replace it I decided to hook up my Piranha hydraulic pump to it with quick disconnect instead.But now I get only 7.5 Tons out of it.
Air hydraulic has 10000 psi verses 3200 psi with my iron worker.
Still a few more homemade tools to come.

 

[Gmonkee]

I made a 1/4" extention using a damaged cheap socket and a peice of round bar, nothing exciting but a fun slow-day project. This was made as a test of process more than out of need, the one I need will be about 18 inches long. It will be built using exactly the same steps.
It was hand filed and polished every step of the way.

In one pic is another press fit on a 8mm socket and a few cheap commercial units. The press fit just looks like I didn't try in comparison to the brazed one.
(I had to make one just to be sure. )
And then the finished product, a 14" 1/4" extention with flex joint. This is for getting into deep dark areas of engine compartments without losing small peices.
It can be made into a wobble extention as well.
I just have to do the final polishing now.

Brian

 

[Sterff]

Thats pretty neat. Did you braze them together or weld them?

 

[Gmonkee]

Brazed, but make sure to leave a gap for flow between the socket and the bar, it does make a difference on a hard pull some day ahead. My first attempt failed miserably at the bench test on that.
Welding is stronger but you gotta be good at not leaving holes, I am not. Being the little size brazing is strong enough.

Brian

 

[Ben Iv]

Heres my big bevel guage at work made from 2"x1/4" aluminum. and a few hammers I made, one from carbon and brass to use and one from stainless and brass for show, the cap on the end un screws for chisel or pumch storage.

 

[IDASHO]

Here is one of mine. So far Ive used it more than a dozen times, all for SHO Taurus clutch jobs. 3 of those being my own SHO.

My version of the engine rig. It suspends the engine in the engine bay while you drop the subframe and trans out the bottom. Doing this enable me to reduce a 8hr clutch job (book time) to less than 3hrs.

Made out of some scrapyard 3" channel iron and some misc hardware. The pick points also use threaded eye-bolts and nuts with handles welded to them for adjustment. You can lift and lower the engine 3" front and rear just by cranking on the handles.

 

[Griff93]

This is a crankshaft holding tool I made for Subaru engines. It lets me take the crank bolt loose without having to use an impact so I can leave the radiator in while doing a timing belt.

This one is a press I built using an old wheel hub for pressing out bmw stub axles. I need to modify the forcing screw as it has to much friction against the stub axle.

BMW fan clutch wrench.

I need a 50mm deep socket for a 4wd hub.

 

[spv]

This is a crankshaft holding tool I made for Subaru engines. It lets me take the crank bolt loose without having to use an impact so I can leave the radiator in while doing a timing belt.

Did you Tig this?

 

[Griff93]

Yes I did. I used TIG shortly after I started to get some practice with it on something that isn't structurally critical.

 

[Gmonkee]

While nobody really wants to use a scissors jack sometimes it is the best option to get a low car up enough to get a real jack under it.
I can never find the handles that fit or get a smooth turn on an improvised handle. This idea came to me. These are from old nissan trucks but about any u-joint would work that adapts to the jack you have.
No more binding or lost handles for me.

 

[NASTYZEN]

While nobody really wants to use a scissors jack sometimes it is the best option to get a low car up enough to get a real jack under it.
I can never find the handles that fit or get a smooth turn on an improvised handle. This idea came to me. These are from old nissan trucks but about any u-joint would work that adapts to the jack you have.
No more binding or lost handles for me.

I like it ,good idea.

 

[StupidHippie]

Does this count?

I was making several Arts & Crafts style chairs so I made a plane in the same style...

The sole is 3/8" steel, the sides are brass and rivetted to the sole. The infill is quartersawn white oak and the handle is African Blackwood and is mortised through the frog above the blade.

Here's one of the chairs before it got a cushion...

It's hard to see in the photo, but there are dumb casters built into the legs...it was a stage prop and had to roll sideways off stage....Rob

 

[Jim Stabe]

Hello Jim,been busy this summer,gotta work to pay off my shop!
Well I guess you need access to a lathe to be able to make the rolling dies.I used 4140 material to make mine,the rest is just mild steel.I will be modifying the inner die by adding a twist handle a bit like a can opener to help drive it.The inner die has a groove in it to keep it from moving back and forth in the housing and an Allen screw threaded in the housing long enough to go into the groove.
The plate with a shaft welded to it is a guide to keep the distance of the bump constant on the edge of the tube to be worked.
The outer two roller dies are held in place with shoulder bolts threaded into the sliding plate witch is a little like a hand holding onto the main body of the tool.This plate has a threaded rod going into a bushing that has a shoulder to bottom out and a tiny shoulder bolt to hold it on when unscrewing or backing off pressure.At the other end the threaded rod goes thou a threaded bushing that is welded to the body.And finally I machined an aluminum knob that is threaded and locktited to the threaded rod.
Not something I use every day but very handy when I make parts for Formula Fords or Vintage race cars.
If you end up making one,it would be nice to see it here.
Enjoy

Thanks. I do have a lathe so I think I'll give one of these a shot when I get a day in the shop.Do the rolling dies have any bushings or just run steel on steel? Can you bead steel tubing with it?

Jim

 

[NASTYZEN]

Does this count?

I was making several Arts & Crafts style chairs so I made a plane in the same style...

The sole is 3/8" steel, the sides are brass and rivetted to the sole. The infill is quartersawn white oak and the handle is African Blackwood and is mortised through the frog above the blade.

Here's one of the chairs before it got a cushion...

It's hard to see in the photo, but there are dumb casters built into the legs...it was a stage prop and had to roll sideways off stage....Rob

Hey StupidHippie,nice tool!And your right,it's hard to see your chair in the photo cuz there is'nt one!

 

[NASTYZEN]

Thanks. I do have a lathe so I think I'll give one of these a shot when I get a day in the shop.Do the rolling dies have any bushings or just run steel on steel? Can you bead steel tubing with it?

Jim

Your right ,my setup is metal on metal.I chose that route because the dies are tempered.I just use a little oil once in awhile.If you plan on using your tool lot's bushings would be nice I guess.
My tool can bead steel tubing but there's a little fudging involved that's why I want to add a can opener style handle to it to drive the inner die.I would even knurl it a little for better traction.

 

[NASTYZEN]

DIY wingnut socket.
I got fed up with blistering my fingers when putting up and tearing down my winter Tempo.So I made this up and even made several to give away as gifts to good customers.I get stuff nickel plated all the time for race cars so I just threw in all these sockets so they would look somewhat decent.

 

[Jeff]

 

[jkherd]

Beat it to fit, paint it to match.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Didn't realize office tools were included.Is that for accounts and receivables?